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A one-electronic component solution to fix the drain of the One Z-series


Filalapat

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Hello @FilalapatThanks for the solution. Probably I will make the mod because when I am on contract (around four months), I make my wife to check regularly the battery charge. It is difficult to find the CRYDOM CMX100D10 Solid relay. Can you give the specs to look for similar please 

Edited by Ch.Eng.62
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Outstanding! A simple solution to a big problem for some. Thanks for sharing your skills!

Edit: Sorry to be a pain but I can't get the Crydom or Amazon relays in the UK. Would you be kind enough to select the correct relay from this page please? The filters really help but I have no idea where to start!

https://www.mouser.co.uk/Search/Refine?N=18383526

Edited by Planemo
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The main characteristics for this device are :

Coil voltage : 3 à 10V,  DC voltage
Output voltage : 100Vmax, DC voltage
Output max current : 10A

the manufacturer's datasheet is downloadable here :

http://www.crydom.com/en/products/catalog/cmx-series-dc-pcb-mount.pdf

This device is highly oversized here, max current is really in the mA range, output voltage don't exceed here 6V peak to peak... 

This device is available on farnell, rs components, ebay... in europe, but you should be able to find these devices worldwide.

@Ch.Eng.62
The G3MB-202P models seems to be made for AC mains voltage output. Probably they integrates a triac stage output, this will not be compatible with this application. 
Output stage should be made for DC voltages.

 

links to find the devices...

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/1-X-CMX100D10-Relay-solid-state-Ucntrl-3A-10VDC-10A-0A-100VDC-THT-SIP/112616804660

https://fr.farnell.com/sensata-crydom/cmx100d10/relais-statique-10a-100v-sip/dp/1779773?st=cmx100d10

@Planemo
On your mouser webpage link :
choose manufacturer : sensata
choose control voltage range : 3VDC to 10VDC
choose load voltage rating : 100VDC
and apply filters

and maybe you see this :

mouser no : 558-CMX100D6
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Crydom/CMX100D6?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsUriz2CNI3E8GqrC4g63wzREBBmyTRWmc%3D

mouser no : 558-CMX100D10
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Crydom/CMX100D10?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsUriz2CNI3ExU7VxMWr6ZeCmO7dwd6xcU%3D
 

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Thanks Filalapat, perfect! Quite pricey at £30, surprised at that, thought they might be a bit cheaper but hey-ho.

This is a real easy mod guys, couple of wires to be cut and a bit of soldering. In fact I think it could be even easier - rather than cutting the wires to the Bluetooth module could you not just splice them? Just strip back a little of the sheath and solder on the news wire to them.

I'm going to do this at some point soon - I have not left my wheel for longer than 2 weeks so far but in winter it may sit for a few months so doing this just gives me peace of mind and I can forget about it :)

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29 minutes ago, Ch.Eng.62 said:

@Filalapat Did you charge the battery after the mod? I am asking because during the charging the wheel is switched off and, if the wheel is modded, there is not communication between the mainboard and battery. Is this a problem? 

This is what concerns me about this mod.

I know from experience that if the battery pack gets too hot, it will not charge. Without knowing exactly how the battery protection logic works with the BMS and main control board, any fault with the battery while charging might escalate into a bad situation.

Perhaps improve the mod by ORing system standby and charging. The two leads from the charging port connects directly to two of the four leads at each battery pack.

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Thanks for the clarification. 

I am owner of Z10, but I am not at home. Will be at home after 5 or 6 days. My reliever is already onboard and my contract is about to finish. :)

I know that for  the previous Ninebot wheels, the charger is connected directly to the battery, but didn't know how it is in the Z10. 

In the previous models there was not communication cables at all. 

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  • 4 months later...

Good Evening Mr F

excellent idea and very clearly laid out instructions, thank you very much.  This could be achieved using a locking catch waterproof switch? Located somewhere discrete so as not to be accidentally activated?

As you are clearly knowledgeable, I would like to ask you about my z10 batterie experiences;  I just bought a bust z10, stupidly yes as it looks likely an expensive door stop and I cant afford it, but it is basically new and such a lovely chunky design. Anyway I have opened it up to find the usual burnt connections (x2) on the powerboard, however as it all still worked (except for balancing of course) I thought I would fully charge it at the very least. I read many entries on this super forum about charging and left it overnight, so some 8 hours after the charger block light went green, in order to allow for cell balancing.

In the morning the wheel was off, no charging bars and the charger block light was but a dim dim red, hmm looked fishy so as the wheel was open I decided to take direct voltage readings from both batteries...only to see over 70v each on each, yikes. I immediately removed the pack and placed it in plain sight in case it decided to ignite and over the day (today) I have been checking the voltages.  the readings have been all over the place from a healthy 58.4 to still 65-70v, this is mad for a 14s pack, and would surely would indicate serious issues with the BMS?  I am going to find another meter just in case, but this one has been very reliable.

I wonder if the z10 issues are all down to a BMS fault?  The high voltages would at the very least test the system and components, 8-12v over surely is significant and this would quickly damage the cells....or am I getting this wrong?

I presume that the operating system needs to get info from the BMS, the yellow/green wires, so I cannot just fit 2 x proven 14s BMS boards?  Likewise I would imagine hacking the ninebot code to program my own BMS would be a nightmare if even possible?

 

Any thoughts appreciatted

james 

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