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egress123

A stand for 18XL or 18L?

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5 hours ago, NylahTay said:

@Lutalo where did you get the vinyls for that red one? I love it! 

Thank you kindly. Stay tuned for the gold I am about to do. I like to use inexpensive wraps for wheels; this company sells a great Vvivid knockoff. 

Tried unsuccessfully to PM the info to you.

Seller: M J-AUTOPARTS

Wrap Finish Description: Premium Satin Matte Chrome

Color: Red

Check this out: Premium Satin Matte Chrome Metallic Vinyl Film Wrap Sticker Air ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSFKNJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_UkF0Cb9Y6G9PG

Edited by Lutalo

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11 minutes ago, Lutalo said:

Thank you kindly. Stay tuned for the gold I am about to do. I like to use inexpensive wraps for wheels; this company sells a great Vvivid knockoff. 

Tried unsuccessfully to PM the info to you.

Seller: M J-AUTOPARTS

Wrap Finish Description: Premium Satin Matte Chrome

Color: Red

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSX9ZT7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_VKE0CbB2M7X8P

Wow thanks! Was the 6ft x 5ft plenty enough for the your XL? I love the light blue color they have

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11 minutes ago, NylahTay said:

Wow thanks! Was the 6ft x 5ft plenty enough for the your XL? I love the light blue color they have

Yes the light blue is lovely; especially, in that satin chrome finish. For me the 6x5 was good. If you get that size roll there will not be enough to rewrap your entire wheel; you will have to buy another roll, but you will have plenty to rewrap smaller pieces like foot platforms and the shell cap. If you want some " in case I mess this up cushion" you should go for at least 8x5. 6x5 worked for me because I didn't mess up this time :)👍

Edited by Lutalo

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On 5/3/2019 at 9:54 AM, egress123 said:

Really??  It will hold 50 pounds 18XL??

What material did you use?  ABS?  

PLA works just fine. 

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First I tried the AmazonBasics guitar stand that's been recommended.  The KS18XL with the larger pedals doesn't sit happily on this stand.  The center of gravity is too far forward, and I've had the whole wheel/stand fall forward (it pivoted over the front legs and the wheel simply fell onto its side, with the stand still "holding" it.  I tried raising the front of the stand a bit to put the CG further back, but the result was that the wheel is still a little unstable, and it tends to want to rotate from vertical (as there's nothing to keep the chassis from rotating around the wheel).  While looking around my garage for something to use temporarily, I saw something I had forgotten I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO8DL8

It's the riser for my bicycle trainer (what you put the front bicycle wheel on while the rear wheel is on the trainer).  It has different widths/depths of cutouts for wheels, and I found that for my KS18XL the medium-depth cutouts work best and hold the wheel securely.  The deepest ones work, too, but they grip the tire a little too tightly and then I have to pry the wheel up off the stand.  The shallowest cutouts are too shallow and the wheel is wobbly.

I place the wheel into the medium-depth cutout of this riser and pivot the chassis backward until it contacts the riser and the charge port is facing upward, signaling that the hungry battery is ready to be fed:

20190513-040059408-i-OS.jpg

Very secure, and the stand is not that expensive (less than $40 or even $30, at least for an Amazon purchaser in the U.S.).

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On 5/6/2019 at 8:45 PM, Lutalo said:

Here is what I use. Simple design:

1. Solid 12"x1" PVC rod cut to 5.5" lengths

2. Holes drilled through the middle to match mudflap screw inserts. 

3. M3x25mm machine screws

4. Vinyl endcaps. 

Directly Attach 5.5" rod segment to wheel using screws inserted into empty mudflap screwholes. Slide vinyl endcaps onto the rod. Voila! You got a new wheelstand. 

This is great and I might well do this to have a kickstand when out and about. Silly question, do you insert the screws from inside the case pointing out, or thru the rods going towards the shell? 

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13 hours ago, uekarashi said:

This is great and I might well do this to have a kickstand when out and about. Silly question, do you insert the screws from inside the case pointing out, or thru the rods going towards the shell? 

Through the rods going the shell. It's important to do it this way because the screws will insert directly into the mudflap screw holes. 

What's clever about it is that you are using the existing mudflap screwholes to secure the rod to the shell. Fortunately, KS put those screw holes on both sides of the wheel. 

IMG_20190505_141029.jpg

Edited by Lutalo

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6 hours ago, Lutalo said:

Through the rods going the shell. It's important to do it this way because the screws will insert directly into the mudflap screw holes. 

What's clever about it is that you are using the existing mudflap screwholes to secure the rod to the shell. Fortunately, KS put those screw holes on both sides of the wheel. 

I see, so the screw heads end up on the outside of the rods and will also rest on the ground? A head on picture of the kickstand from up close would be great. I would have thought that 25mm wasn't enough length to secure a 1" rod and still have enough threads into the screw holes on the case. I very much think I'll be trying to find parts and applying this! It'll be great not to have to lean the wheel against my seat when out eating, because inevitably I end up standing up and my wheel pushes the seat aside violently, lol.

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4 hours ago, uekarashi said:

I see, so the screw heads end up on the outside of the rods and will also rest on the ground? A head on picture of the kickstand from up close would be great. I would have thought that 25mm wasn't enough length to secure a 1" rod and still have enough threads into the screw holes on the case. I very much think I'll be trying to find parts and applying this! It'll be great not to have to lean the wheel against my seat when out eating, because inevitably I end up standing up and my wheel pushes the seat aside violently, lol.

The vinyl end caps are taller than the screw heads, and they are what rest on the ground. The wheel will be perfectly stable on the kickstand. Don't over-think it; it works.   

You are right; 25mm is not even a one inch length. M3x30 (1.1") or M3x35mm (1.3") will work much better; my bad. My length measurements might be a bit off, but it should be one of those. Try them both because I suspect 35 might be a bit too long. 

Sorry that I don't remember the exact size I used. I have a bunch of screws in an unmarked box. I know how to choose the right ones from my own collection, but seem to have forgotten their exact nomenclature. 🙁

Edited by Lutalo

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5 minutes ago, Lutalo said:

The vinyl end caps are taller than the screw heads, and you are right 25mm is not even one inch; M3x30 (1.1") or M3x35mm (1.3") will work much better; my bad. My length measurements might be a bit off, but it should be one of those. Try them both because I suspect 35 might be a bit too long

I see, that makes a lot more sense now :D I have some screws on hand, but hadn't got around to obtaining the rods and caps yet. I might yet be thoroughly cheap about it and saw off some of my broom handle :laughbounce2:

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10 hours ago, uekarashi said:

I see, that makes a lot more sense now :D I have some screws on hand, but hadn't got around to obtaining the rods and caps yet. I might yet be thoroughly cheap about it and saw off some of my broom handle :laughbounce2:

This is the link for the PVC rod:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HM2SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_GGR5CbZX3Q2HV

This is the link for the end caps:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079YWSLW7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_rIR5Cb9A1RASS

The photo is a close-up of how the screws appear after fastening the rod to the wheel. As you can see they barely protrude at all. 

I also actually measured. It's close to an 1/2"; which, means that it is most likely 35mm length: M3x35mm is the most probable screw size. 

IMG_20190523_110935.jpg

IMG_20190523_120901.jpg

Edited by Lutalo

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1 hour ago, Lutalo said:

This is the link for the PVC rod:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HM2SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_GGR5CbZX3Q2HV

This is the link for the end caps:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079YWSLW7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_rIR5Cb9A1RASS

The photo is a close-up of how the screws appear after fastening the rod to the wheel. As you can see they barely protrude at all. 

I also actually measured. It's close to an 1/2"; which, means that it is most likely 35mm length: M3x35mm is the most probable screw size. 

Ah, many thanks! These photos really helped. I think that will be the next thing I do, now that my case rub issue is fixed ^_^ 

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49 minutes ago, uekarashi said:

Ah, many thanks! These photos really helped. I think that will be the next thing I do, now that my case rub issue is fixed ^_^ 

😎👍 you caught me at an opportune moment. Got hit by a car the other day; it was minor. I had the shell off today inspecting for damage to the inner shell.😀

Edited by Lutalo

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5 minutes ago, Lutalo said:

😎👍 you caught me at an opportune moment. Got hit by a car the other day; it was minor. I had the shell off today inspecting for damage to the inner shell.😀

Holy crap, glad to see you're able to hang out on forums at least eh. Get well soon dude.

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On 5/23/2019 at 1:24 PM, uekarashi said:

Holy crap, glad to see you're able to hang out on forums at least eh. Get well soon dude.

I’m good. It was minor, but the inner shell suffered a bit. No cracking, but four of the screw inserts detached from the inner shell. Making an attempt to reattach them and hoping that a new inner shell will be unnecessary. Using plastic bonding solution.hope it works.

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40x90 mm stubs is working for me, the wheel is still in contact with floor... Nailing 40x140 mm studs screwed to plywood will get wheel off floor...

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On 5/3/2019 at 12:29 AM, Jason McNeil said:

The Amazon Basics Metal Guitar stand does a good job for this purpose, it only costs $13  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FCZKR2

611Eh3yCovL._SL1500_.jpg

No way! This can't hold 25kg wheel. Every guitar stand with bottom holders attached in one point will have problem: bending wires, can crack soon

I found this one to be usable: K&M Heli 2 A-Guitar Stand HN156805

because critical parts have support.

HM_Stand.jpg

but frankly, 3D printed stand is better (EUCarmy in my case)

Edited by jitesar

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On 5/7/2019 at 8:50 AM, prasket said:

I think about 27 hrs to print the ones I have at .2mm resolution and 35% infill using PETG filament.

Yup. It took a while to print mine but I can say the PETG works well for the heavy 18XL - and I used the design that works without nuts and bolts.

I printed another one for the KS 14S in PLA which also works great. 

e7319383f21e5fd01411d620cab628a6_preview

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On 6/24/2019 at 10:33 PM, MacPara said:

Yup. It took a while to print mine but I can say the PETG works well for the heavy 18XL - and I used the design that works without nuts and bolts.

I printed another one for the KS 14S in PLA which also works great. 

e7319383f21e5fd01411d620cab628a6_preview

Used the same great design, just enlarged the pads a little bit to better match the wheel size and since was using PLA, I went for 75% infill. Took about 2 days to complete the print on CR10S Pro, but rock solid, just love it!

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On 5/23/2019 at 1:58 PM, Lutalo said:

The vinyl end caps are taller than the screw heads, and they are what rest on the ground. The wheel will be perfectly stable on the kickstand. Don't over-think it; it works.   

You are right; 25mm is not even a one inch length. M3x30 (1.1") or M3x35mm (1.3") will work much better; my bad. My length measurements might be a bit off, but it should be one of those. Try them both because I suspect 35 might be a bit too long. 

Sorry that I don't remember the exact size I used. I have a bunch of screws in an unmarked box. I know how to choose the right ones from my own collection, but seem to have forgotten their exact nomenclature. 🙁

Following on from this excellent suggestion, I 3dprinted a kickstand instead, because 1) I kept waking up too late on the weekends to get to the hardware shops here, 2) this means I don't have to drill anything :D

It's on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3715805

And @Lutalo, M3x35mm worked perfectly for me with the 3dprinted model:

kickstand3.thumb.jpg.7bd54255a5f8deb9092a6aedfc4d715d.jpg

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4 hours ago, uekarashi said:

Following on from this excellent suggestion, I 3dprinted a kickstand instead, because 1) I kept waking up too late on the weekends to get to the hardware shops here, 2) this means I don't have to drill anything :D

It's on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3715805

And @Lutalo, M3x35mm worked perfectly for me with the 3dprinted model:

kickstand3.thumb.jpg.7bd54255a5f8deb9092a6aedfc4d715d.jpg

Well, if you happen to have a 3D printer handy. That works too. :D. This looks awesome. Looks really stable. 5mm is about the thickness of a business card so it really shouldn’t make that much difference; I was overreacting.:D. I’m now certain that mine are M3 x 30mm, and those work fine as well. Great job. I’m impressed.

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On 6/26/2019 at 12:52 PM, egress123 said:

I ended up making my own.

 

4F963E8D-A978-47EB-B800-8735274BE72E.jpeg

What's the little basket with the orange ball for?

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On 6/27/2019 at 7:59 PM, Lutalo said:

Well, if you happen to have a 3D printer handy. That works too. :D. This looks awesome. Looks really stable. 5mm is about the thickness of a business card so it really shouldn’t make that much difference; I was overreacting.:D. I’m now certain that mine are M3 x 30mm, and those work fine as well. Great job. I’m impressed.

You're absolutely right - I eventually swapped to M3x30 and it works great! This is great right now.

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On 6/30/2019 at 9:29 AM, MaxLinux said:

What's the little basket with the orange ball for?

That's a fire extinguisher ball.  It's a hollow styrofoam ball containing an inert powder similar to the dry agent in some fire extinguishers.  A pyrotechnic fuse is wrapped around the ball (with the outer colorful plastic layer hiding it).  Inside is a small amount of black powder at the very center, with the fuse bands connected to it.  The heat of combustion sets off one of the fuse wraps and the ball explodes.  See one of multiple YouTube videos of this in action.  This provides a very loud bang that acts as an alarm, and also spreads the powder to act as fire suppression in a circle around the ball's location.  It works well on conventional fires (dry combustibles), and reasonably well on liquid-fueled fires (gasoline).  I've seen no tests done on battery fires, but like to think that while the powder may do nothing to stop the exothermic runaway of a lithium-ion battery pack, it would at least slow the spread of fire to other combustibles in the area.  I have an Elide fire ball suspended over my wheel in my garage, although mine is supended from a metal tripod, to prevent adding more combustible materials to the equation.  Note that non-Elide knock-offs like the AFO one in the photo on this thread have been shown to be inferior in tests to the original (and more expensive) Elide version.

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