Gotway Tesla backward tilt

[wandersell]

Hi to everybody!

I'm new here. I bought a GW Tesla 1020W, very happy with it. I haven't ridden it for a long time, approximately for 60 kms (40 miles) all together. My only problem is the backward tilt. It gets very steep at speeds over 25 km/h (ca 15 mph), I can still ride it, but it is very uncomfortable. It is ok if I accelerate as fast as possible up to approximately 40 km/h (25 mph), but I can't maintain the speed because of the tilt. Can I change it somehow? I have the Wheellog app, but I messed a little with the settings and couldn't change the tilt. 

The second question: how can I calibrate it that it doesn't beep all the time, but only at approximately 95% of top speed and no beeps at 25 km/h, 30 km/h etc.

Thanks for your answers.

[Marty Backe]

If you have the version of WheelLog downloaded from the Playstore, then you should be good.

Swipe from the left to access the Wheel Settings menu. From there you can set the tilt-back speed, or turn it off. Most people (including me) opt to turn it off.

For the beeping, you want to disable the first two alarms.

Sorry, I don't have a  connected WheelLog in front of me to give you the exact WheelLog terminology, but hopefully you can find the necessary buttons/menu items.

[meepmeepmayer]

Just to be clear, this is the tiltback, an intentional feature to warn you at a certain speed (or when the battery is low) by trying to slow you down with a backwards pedal tilt. Looks like yours is set at 25kph. Set it higher or disable it altogether.

Make sure to NEVER ignore the warning beeps if you disable tiltback and the lower speed alarms.

Also, don't use third party apps (like Wheellog) to change wheel settings at this early stage. They confusingly may change a setting (you hear the wheel beeping twice) without explicitly telling you. The 25kph tiltback might be due to this. Don't even enter the Wheellog configuration option page.

Use the official Gotway app for now (from the download section here, or the app store, same functionality). Select "open all alarms" followed by "default alarms" to reset all alarms to factory settings, and go from there and disable your speed alarms and set/disable your tiltback as you like.

[meepmeepmayer]

You can always do a lift test to see what your wheel settings are and that everything is as you want it to be. This prevents bad surprises from sudden unexpected tiltback etc. because some app changed something without you noticing.

Lift the wheel while looking at an app for speed, and tilt it back and forth to see what happens at which speed. Beeps you will hear, and you feel tiltback as the wheel suddenly jolting in your hands and accelerating.

You can be very precise with the speed if you hold it right, this allows you to check all speed related things safely and easily.

[Marty Backe]

3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Just to be clear, this is the tiltback, an intentional feature to warn you at a certain speed (or when the battery is low) by trying to slow you down with a backwards pedal tilt. Looks like yours is set at 25kph. Set it higher or disable it altogether.

Make sure to NEVER ignore the warning beeps if you disable tiltback and the lower speed alarms.

Also, don't use third party apps (like Wheellog) to change wheel settings at this early stage. They confusingly may change a setting (you hear the wheel beeping twice) without explicitly telling you. The 25kph tiltback might be due to this. Don't even enter the Wheellog configuration option page.

Use the official Gotway app for now (from the download section here, or the app store, same functionality). Select "open all alarms" followed by "default alarms" to reset all alarms to factory settings, and go from there and disable your speed alarms and set/disable your tiltback as you like.

I have to disagree with you on this. WheelLog works great. I don't understand anything about what you just wrote regards WheelLog. Maybe it's just me 

[wandersell]

Thanks to Marty and Meyer for the answers. I usually use the WheelLog app, but somehow I couldn't switch the tilt off, but it worked very well with the GW app. It seems to me that both apps have their weak points and their respective strong points. I switched all the beeps off, except one: at 48 km/h. And I kept the battery beep (at 100%). My only problem being right now is the huge amount of snow that came out of nowhere last night.

Can you run two GWs on one app? Either on WheelLog or GW app or both? I just bought another GW. It seems that I'm infected. Seriously infected.

[meepmeepmayer]

2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

I have to disagree with you on this. WheelLog works great. I don't understand anything about what you just wrote regards WheelLog. Maybe it's just me 

Well, that may be old info, not sure.

Wheellog is fantastic and I use it every single ride.

But the last time I opened the wheel settings menu, the app did change some wheel settings (which included disabling the speed alarms) simply by opening this menu. This is extremely confusing for a new rider who is trying to de-puzzle the mysterious wheel beeps and disgraceful app situation and doesn't need an extra layer of confusion.

I have the current Wheellog from the Play Store, and the settings menu is greyed out now, so I can't check if that has been fixed.

Still, in doubt, it makes most sense to remove a possible complication. One can build up from there.

[meepmeepmayer]

3 hours ago, wandersell said:

Thanks to Marty and Meyer for the answers. I usually use the WheelLog app, but somehow I couldn't switch the tilt off, but it worked very well with the GW app. It seems to me that both apps have their weak points and their respective strong points.

GW app for settings (like once a year), Wheellog for everything else. It's just so much nicer.

3 hours ago, wandersell said:

Can you run two GWs on one app? Either on WheelLog or GW app or both?

Not sure what you mean.

Any app will work with any wheel. You can scan for wheels and select one in each app if multiple wheels are in range.

Two wheels at the same time? Maybe try connecting the GW app to one of them and Wheellog to the other, not sure if that works.

3 hours ago, wandersell said:

I just bought another GW. It seems that I'm infected. Seriously infected.

[mrelwood]

4 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Two wheels at the same time?

It won’t work, as the bluetooth on a phone can only make a single connection at a time.

13 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Most people (including me) opt to turn it off.

 I remember you saying that you don’t tend to ride past what was it, 25mph? Why turn it off if you don’t plan to hit those speeds anyway?

I and many others would never recommend turning the tilt-back off. At 50km/h it is very likely that you can’t hear the beeps, so there would be nothing preventing you from accidentally overspeeding the wheel and falling forward. At least on the MSX the tilt-back is very smooth, and not disturbing at all. I keep it at the maximum, though I never intend to ride that fast.

Gotway is, and will always be the only manufacturer that lets the rider to turn off the tilt-back. Food for thought.

[Marty Backe]

4 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

It won’t work, as the bluetooth on a phone can only make a single connection at a time.

 I remember you saying that you don’t tend to ride past what was it, 25mph? Why turn it off if you don’t plan to hit those speeds anyway?

I and many others would never recommend turning the tilt-back off. At 50km/h it is very likely that you can’t hear the beeps, so there would be nothing preventing you from accidentally overspeeding the wheel and falling forward. At least on the MSX the tilt-back is very smooth, and not disturbing at all. I keep it at the maximum, though I never intend to ride that fast.

Gotway is, and will always be the only manufacturer that lets the rider to turn off the tilt-back. Food for thought.

Some of us believe that keeping the tilt-back off is a safety measure. The theory is that if your battery level is on the low side and the wheel needs to instigate a tilt-back, the increased power demand to do this could result in a cutout (because there's not enough juice in the battery pack to lift your feet).

It's up for debate whether this is true, but I choose to play it safe and keep tilt-back off. Instead I pay attention to the 3rd alarm and use my Pebble watch to buzz my wrist (I always feel this on my wrist). And there's nothing more joyous than experiencing an unexpected tilt-back when cruising at 25-mph 

I for one very much appreciate Gotway treating us like adults and letting us decide how to configure our wheels. No KingSong/Ninebot/Inmotion hand-holding, thank you very much.

Gotway wheels ship with all alarms active and tilt-back enabled. So beginners are protected - you have to go out of your way to disable the various safety features.

[mrelwood]

I hate to take this tone, but a new rider will likely get a wrong picture otherwise.

2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

The theory is that if your battery level is on the low side and the wheel needs to instigate a tilt-back, the increased power demand to do this could result in a cutout (because there's not enough juice in the battery pack to lift your feet).

Yes, the theory has been discussed at length before. But I find it crucial that the theory above isn’t the only one left on a thread started by a new rider.

No engineer has supported the theory, and no incident demonstrates it working. The discussion ended soon after the realization that initiating tilt-back doesn’t take more energy than starting to brake by yourself at the same rate. If you are in a situation where starting to brake causes a cutout, the issue is not in the braking.

2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

 Instead I pay attention to the 3rd alarm and use my Pebble watch to buzz my wrist (I always feel this on my wrist).

The wrist buzzer is a crucial point, as we’ve seen the video where you cruise happily with your new MCM5 and didn’t hear it beeping continuously... 

2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

And there's nothing more joyous than experiencing an unexpected tilt-back when cruising at 25-mph 

Depending on the wheel. MSX has a very smooth one, not startling or overtaking at all, even at 48km/h.

2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

I for one very much appreciate Gotway treating us like adults and letting us decide how to configure our wheels.

The numerous riders who have maxed out on their Gotway wheels might not agree. It takes knowledge and experience to understand the consequences.

(I don’t think any EUC (or other) company treats us as anything. They are just small companies fighting to survive. Gotway would be long dead without the speed race.)

2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Gotway wheels ship with all alarms active and tilt-back enabled. So beginners are protected - you have to go out of your way to disable the various safety features.

I wouldn’t call downloading an app having to go ”out of your way”. Beginner protection ends as soon as beginners hear the first beep at a ridiculous 25km/h and go online to ask what’s wrong with the new wheel. Then the socially most active riders tell them to turn of all alarms. 

I find that dangerous, and irresponsible for more accounts than one.

[wandersell]

8 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

GW app for settings (like once a year), Wheellog for everything else. It's just so much nicer.

Not sure what you mean.

Any app will work with any wheel. You can scan for wheels and select one in each app if multiple wheels are in range.

Two wheels at the same time? Maybe try connecting the GW app to one of them and Wheellog to the other, not sure if that works.

Danke für dein Antwort! I think I wasn't quite clear, what I did mean was if I could run two different wheels on the same app at different times, not both wheels at the same time. Sorry for the confusion. But you already answered my question.

[wandersell]

43 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

I hate to take this tone, but a new rider will likely get a wrong picture otherwise.

Yes, the theory has been discussed at length before. But I find it crucial that the theory above isn’t the only one left on a thread started by a new rider.

No engineer has supported the theory, and no incident demonstrates it working. The discussion ended soon after the realization that initiating tilt-back doesn’t take more energy than starting to brake by yourself at the same rate. If you are in a situation where starting to brake causes a cutout, the issue is not in the braking.

The wrist buzzer is a crucial point, as we’ve seen the video where you cruise happily with your new MCM5 and didn’t hear it beeping continuously... 

Depending on the wheel. MSX has a very smooth one, not startling or overtaking at all, even at 48km/h.

The numerous riders who have maxed out on their Gotway wheels might not agree. It takes knowledge and experience to understand the consequences.

(I don’t think any EUC (or other) company treats us as anything. They are just small companies fighting to survive. Gotway would be long dead without the speed race.)

I wouldn’t call downloading an app having to go ”out of your way”. Beginner protection ends as soon as beginners hear the first beep at a ridiculous 25km/h and go online to ask what’s wrong with the new wheel. Then the socially most active riders tell them to turn of all alarms. 

I find that dangerous, and irresponsible for more accounts than one.

Morjesta! Kiitos vastauksesta. What would you suggest for a newbe? I like fast riding, but of course I'm not so fond of crashing especially because of some technical failure like when the power is cut off. At this point I have calibrated my Tesla to beep for the first time at 48 km/h. Thats all! And the reason is that all the beeping really annoyed me a lot. How would you calibrate it?

[mrelwood]

I would just leave the tilt-back on at all times. If you like speed, set it to the max. If you tend to go faster than you mean to, find your personal favourite setting.

I strongly recommend reading a bit in the ”Understanding EUC dynamics” thread. A lot of things a newbie doesn’t know about how and why the wheels behave.

And always gear up. You will likely fall at some point.

Due to even official EUC apps being a bit untrustworthy, I would also make the lift test every now and then to make sure the tilt-back has stayed on. Quick enough to do.

[Marty Backe]

8 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I hate to take this tone, but a new rider will likely get a wrong picture otherwise.

Yes, the theory has been discussed at length before. But I find it crucial that the theory above isn’t the only one left on a thread started by a new rider.

No engineer has supported the theory, and no incident demonstrates it working. The discussion ended soon after the realization that initiating tilt-back doesn’t take more energy than starting to brake by yourself at the same rate. If you are in a situation where starting to brake causes a cutout, the issue is not in the braking.

The wrist buzzer is a crucial point, as we’ve seen the video where you cruise happily with your new MCM5 and didn’t hear it beeping continuously... 

Depending on the wheel. MSX has a very smooth one, not startling or overtaking at all, even at 48km/h.

The numerous riders who have maxed out on their Gotway wheels might not agree. It takes knowledge and experience to understand the consequences.

(I don’t think any EUC (or other) company treats us as anything. They are just small companies fighting to survive. Gotway would be long dead without the speed race.)

I wouldn’t call downloading an app having to go ”out of your way”. Beginner protection ends as soon as beginners hear the first beep at a ridiculous 25km/h and go online to ask what’s wrong with the new wheel. Then the socially most active riders tell them to turn of all alarms. 

I find that dangerous, and irresponsible for more accounts than one.

This "debate" has literally been going on for years, and that's why some people lean towards buying KingSong wheels and some towards Gotway wheels.

I was a beginner once, and started on an ACM. I turned off the tilt-back very early and have never looked back. I like Gotway because they treat me like an adult (whether they intend to or not, as you say), not like Volvo who just announced they will be limiting the top speed of their cars - they must have recently hired someone from KingSong 

[LanghamP]

12 hours ago, mrelwood said:

No engineer has supported the theory, and no incident demonstrates it working. 

You can easily prove or disprove this theory by simply setting the titlback to a very low speed, then opening up WheelLog, and then while looking at the instantaneous wattage / amp max while tiltback is initiated.

It will answer the question if titlback takes up energy.

[mrelwood]

14 hours ago, LanghamP said:

You can easily prove or disprove this theory by simply setting the titlback to a very low speed, then opening up WheelLog, and then while looking at the instantaneous wattage / amp max while tiltback is initiated.

It will answer the question if titlback takes up energy.

It will only answer if initiating a braking procedure takes power. Of course it does. But that isn’t the theory. The theory is that this could cause a cutout. The test above does not answer wether a tilt-back takes more power than starting to brake manually, or wether either of them could cause a cutout. It seems that jumping to those conclusions is what keeps the debate alive.