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ACMs+ Won't turn on


ARetardedPillow

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If it was my wheel, the first thing I would try is to bypass the power button, to eliminate that as the source of the problem. Probably easiest if you disconnect the cable from the control board and directly short the two pins on the control board connector.

Depending on the level of rain that you rode through, even after a couple of weeks there could be water inside the switch.

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@Marty Backe

I've already checked the power button, I shorted the 2 pins and it still doesn't work, it just seems really dead. I've also checked for a shorted motor but that wasn't the case.

Do you think there's an smd fuse on the pcb that has been blown? The conformal coating on the pcb is still in tact and everything looks brand new but it just won't power on

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5 hours ago, ARetardedPillow said:

@Marty Backe

I've already checked the power button, I shorted the 2 pins and it still doesn't work, it just seems really dead. I've also checked for a shorted motor but that wasn't the case.

Do you think there's an smd fuse on the pcb that has been blown? The conformal coating on the pcb is still in tact and everything looks brand new but it just won't power on

Gotway does not use fuses. I assume you've also confirmed that you have 84-volts going into the control board? The wheel will still turn on even if the motor is shorted (which is unlikely based on what you said).

I've never heard of a control board dying from indirect exposure to rain, but I guess there's always a first. Or it's a coincidental failure that has nothing to do with the rain.

If the voltage is good and you feel sure that the power switch is good, than it seems that the control board must be the problem.

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13 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Gotway does not use fuses. I assume you've also confirmed that you have 84-volts going into the control board? The wheel will still turn on even if the motor is shorted (which is unlikely based on what you said).

I've never heard of a control board dying from indirect exposure to rain, but I guess there's always a first. Or it's a coincidental failure that has nothing to do with the rain.

If the voltage is good and you feel sure that the power switch is good, than it seems that the control board must be the problem.

Hmmm, I think my control board has issues then, do you think an acmv2 pcb or tesla pcb would work on an acms+ motor? Or do you think that would cause problems

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1 hour ago, ARetardedPillow said:

Hmmm, I think my control board has issues then, do you think an acmv2 pcb or tesla pcb would work on an acms+ motor? Or do you think that would cause problems

It may, but I think you're really rolling the nice. Better to get a matching control board. FYI, ACMv2 is the ACMs+. The last ACM generation was the ACM2 which uses the same motor as the Tesla.

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4 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

It may, but I think you're really rolling the nice. Better to get a matching control board. FYI, ACMv2 is the ACMs+. The last ACM generation was the ACM2 which uses the same motor as the Tesla.

All these ACMs are so confusing haha. I guess I will get the acms+ control board for now and then try to mess around with it after I have enough money for my second wheel

I've been wanting the MSX so bad but its just so expensive. Need to sell my kidney for one of those wheels 

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1 hour ago, ARetardedPillow said:

All these ACMs are so confusing haha. I guess I will get the acms+ control board for now and then try to mess around with it after I have enough money for my second wheel

I've been wanting the MSX so bad but its just so expensive. Need to sell my kidney for one of those wheels 

Yes, understanding the Gotway wheel history can be confusing unless you've lived through it like I have, and I still get it wrong sometimes :(

I think getting the matching control board is the wise choice. Good luck, and please let us know how the repair works out.

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Update on this thread, I bought an ACMS+ control board but recieved an acm2 control board, installed it but are getting hall sensor errors, will open up the motor and check if it is the motor problem or if it is the control board being not compatible with the motor which I don't think is the issue

I will also be using a vesc to test out the sensors before I take apart the motor for inspection

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36 minutes ago, ARetardedPillow said:

Update on this thread, I bought an ACMS+ control board but recieved an acm2 control board, installed it but are getting hall sensor errors, will open up the motor and check if it is the motor problem or if it is the control board being not compatible with the motor which I don't think is the issue

I will also be using a vesc to test out the sensors before I take apart the motor for inspection

Why would think installing the wrong control would not be the problem?

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7 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Why would think installing the wrong control would not be the problem?

Because the motor control board can't tell which motor is it, since the only things connected are the hall sensors and the 3 phase wires. The control board only controls the motor and apply current 

I'm going to attempt to connect a maytech 6374 motor in a couple hours and see what happens

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8 hours ago, ARetardedPillow said:

Because the motor control board can't tell which motor is it, since the only things connected are the hall sensors and the 3 phase wires. The control board only controls the motor and apply current 

I'm going to attempt to connect a maytech 6374 motor in a couple hours and see what happens

The hall sensors and their configuration could be different and the power signature of the motor could be different. The ACM2 certainly has a different motor than the ACMs+.

Looks like you have under control though.

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I wouldn't try to use a non-matching board. That the wrong board causes the errors seems obvious. EUCs are not good places to do experiments. Get an ACM board.

For clarification:

  • There's the "ACM" which is usually called ACM16 or just ACM, and sometimes the 84V versions of the ACM are called ACMs and ACMs+ (1300Wh and 1600Wh respectively). ACM v2 refers to all but the earliest 67V ACMs, which had 6 instead of 12 mosfets and failed all the time. So nearly every ACM is a v2.
  • There's the Tesla-ized ACM with no official name. Usually called the ACM2, ewheels calls it the ACMv2.

So ACM (67V or 84V) and ACM2 (84V only) are the three board options there are. You need #2: 84V ACM.

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On 2/17/2019 at 5:52 AM, meepmeepmayer said:

I wouldn't try to use a non-matching board. That the wrong board causes the errors seems obvious. EUCs are not good places to do experiments. Get an ACM board.

For clarification:

  • There's the "ACM" which is usually called ACM16 or just ACM, and sometimes the 84V versions of the ACM are called ACMs and ACMs+ (1300Wh and 1600Wh respectively). ACM v2 refers to all but the earliest 67V ACMs, which had 6 instead of 12 mosfets and failed all the time. So nearly every ACM is a v2.
  • There's the Tesla-ized ACM with no official name. Usually called the ACM2, ewheels calls it the ACMv2.

So ACM (67V or 84V) and ACM2 (84V only) are the three board options there are. You need #2: 84V ACM.

Thanks for clearing up the ACM confusion, but I connected an mcm4 motor to my acm 2 control board and everything works smoothly. I think my acms+ motor is the issue

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Another update on this thread, I have opened up the motor and found that one of the phase wires were ripped and one of the sensor wires also ripped. Prior to this I did have an issue that seemed like bad shims or a loose axle nut. I found that to not be the issue, the problem was that the key that was holding the axle in place with the motor stator was actually shattered so the axle was loose from the motor itself. I will fix this issue and update this thread again soon

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