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The Tyre (Tire) Thread


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Just now, AdrianT said:

anyone knows if a stock msx or msp tyre fits a v3?

As far as I remember, they wouldn’t, as the shell opening for the 2.5” tire in MSv3 is narrower. The entire wheel well is probably narrower as well.

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On 2/21/2020 at 8:43 PM, craio said:

Anyone know what's the widest tire that fits an ACM?

I would measure the available space from the tire to the shell, both at the sides and the centre of the tire. That should result in a reasonable guess.

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5 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I would measure the available space from the tire to the shell, both at the sides and the center of the tire. That should result in a reasonable guess.

Gues I'll do that, but i'm mainly wondering if the rim won't be an issue. 

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Hey guys, I need help.

I bought an anti puncture Cheng shin CST tire from my friend for my 18XL and it rides opposite my my old stock. At lower speeds I can feel a bit of the gyro. But at higher speed, it doesn't feel stable at all. It's smooth over bumps and very soft on terrain but unlike the stock tire, where when I turned, it would counter and try to stay up, this new tire dips into the turn. It feels like it's just falling over. It's pretty scary. I'm wondering if after breaking it in, it'll get better. Or doing something like sliming the tire and adding that weight might help stablize it. Or whatnot. Before on corners I could lean in like a motorcycle. But now, if I'm turning right for example, I have to use my feet while I try to force my entire body over the left side as the wheel feels like it's going to drop on its right side. It doesn't want to stand up at all...

Should I stick it out or just replace it with a stock tire? 

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1 hour ago, RoCan said:

Could try lowering the pressure but tbh it sounds like the profile is to curved so not enough contact with the ground, possibly due to being more rigid? i.e. acting like a narrower tyre.

Ah I see. It looked similar in shape to the original when deflated. It might be just that. Which isn't good. Bleh. 

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11 hours ago, seage said:

I'm wondering if after breaking it in, it'll get better. Or doing something like sliming the tire and adding that weight might help stablize it.

Sliming or adding artificial weight doesn’t help, since as @RoCan said, sounds like the profile (or width) of the tire is just not very well suited for an EUC. Knobbly tires act like that, btw, is your CST a knobby as well?

11 hours ago, seage said:

Should I stick it out or just replace it with a stock tire? 

Replace. I wouldn’t expect the behaviour to change much at all. You would be forced to learn a turning technique that works better, but the wheel’s behaviour would most likely stay the same.

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On 2/25/2020 at 3:47 PM, mrelwood said:

Replace. I wouldn’t expect the behaviour to change much at all. You would be forced to learn a turning technique that works better, but the wheel’s behaviour would most likely stay the same.

I'm finding quite a difference among tires.  Knobbies, SR244, stock, next an SR241...

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3 hours ago, Elliott Reitz said:

I'm finding quite a difference among tires.  Knobbies, SR244, stock, next an SR241...

I meant I wouldn't expect the behaviour of the problematic tire to change with time, which is what Seage asked.

Btw, from the ones you mentioned, everything but "stock" is an off-road motorcycle tire... Quite natural to find quite a difference to the stock tire.

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Okay, yeah. Its not too pricey, thankfully. Just time consuming to switch. But yeah. I actually like how nice it handles bumps. That part is great. But the fact that its LESS stable at speed is a big problem for me. Cross wind throws it into a wobble immediately, I have to lock it into my leg to kill it right away. Very different ride style that requires a ton more pressure in my feet to control. Thats actually the main thing too. Its ALL feet. Pretty much no body control. If you get your weight over the side, you eat it. 

11 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I meant I wouldn't expect the behaviour of the problematic tire to change with time, which is what Seage asked.

 

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On 2/23/2020 at 10:51 PM, mrelwood said:

It won’t, 2.125” and 2.5” EUCs seem to usually have the same rim width.

Well i thought that was the part to worry about...

So i bought Heidenau M 4 2.25-16 26B (image) turns out not all 16" are actually 16" :p (it's for 16" rim)

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12 hours ago, craio said:

Well i thought that was the part to worry about...

So i bought Heidenau M 4 2.25-16 26B (image) turns out not all 16" are actually 16" :p (it's for 16" rim)

I think the bicycle shop should remedy this. It is well known that motorcycle tires use the rim diameter and bicycle tires use the approximate outer tire diameter (more like rim + 4”) in the sizing. Ordering a tire from a bicycle shop one should rightfully expect to receive a tire with bicycle sizing standards.

I have looked through Heidenau offerings several times, and that tire is a perfect example why, that should be darn near ideal crossover tread pattern! Though I have only confirmed time and time again that they don’t offer any EUC suitable tire sizes. I do have the K57 winter in 3.0-12 (16x3.0) on my Airwheel A3, but the second thing to know about MC sizing is that the tread pattern or knobbies are not included in the width. That makes the K57 much too wide and tall to fit a 16X/Nikola. Besides, the knobbies would be too harsh on an EUC.

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9 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I think the bicycle shop should remedy this. It is well known that motorcycle tires use the rim diameter and bicycle tires use the approximate outer tire diameter (more like rim + 4”) in the sizing. Ordering a tire from a bicycle shop one should rightfully expect to receive a tire with bicycle sizing standards.

I have looked through Heidenau offerings several times, and that tire is a perfect example why, that should be darn near ideal crossover tread pattern! Though I have only confirmed time and time again that they don’t offer any EUC suitable tire sizes. I do have the K57 winter in 3.0-12 (16x3.0) on my Airwheel A3, but the second thing to know about MC sizing is that the tread pattern or knobbies are not included in the width. That makes the K57 much too wide and tall to fit a 16X/Nikola. Besides, the knobbies would be too harsh on an EUC.

That tire came from an online shop that sells tires for cars, motorcycles etc. But they also have the same tire the bicycle shop is offering listed in the same category, so i expected that it would be fine, gues not. The owner of the bicycleshop will gladly take the tire back if it doesn't fit. Attached is the one i ordered from him (continental KKS10) and should be a bicycle 16"... 

Guess i'll know sometime next week. 

78729.jpg

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Does anyone have experience with a knobby tire on the Nikola? Im looking for a tire for winter/off-road riding, I’ve been looking at the Shinko sr241 3.0-12. Will it fit the nik, or are there other tires I should ble looking at?

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52 minutes ago, Rico said:

Shinko sr241 3.0-12. Will it fit the nik, or are there other tires I should ble looking at?

I’m pretty sure it won’t fit. The knobs are not measured in the 3.0”. Generally a 2.75” MC tire is the closest match to a 3.0” EUC tire. 2.75-12” knobbies might be hard to find though, unfortunately.

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I found a 60/100x12 tire https://www.thansen.no/scooter-moped-mc-mx/moped-og-scooter/dekk-og-slanger/crossdekk-offroad/12-/bridgestone-cross-m403-60-100-x-12/n906437/pn906438/

That translates to about 2.34 inches wide. That should fit the nik? Thanks for the help :) 

Also, will i be able to reuse the stock tube, or will i have to get a new one?

 

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8 hours ago, unipsychogirl said:

Anyone happen to know if this tire will fit on and perform well on an Inmotion v8?

https://www.bmxguru.com/products/16x2-0-vee-rubber-speedster-folding-kevlar-bmx-tire-70psi-pink

I think this should fit well. Should be pretty nice on road but maybe a bit lacking off road and not very good in mud. What terrain do you ride?

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/18/2019 at 5:10 PM, Elliott Reitz said:

Per behaviour question:  Carving with the stock tire was sluggish compared to the e+ though that wheel is slow.  With the 2.75-14 SR244, carving was worse though tolerated for knobby off-road benefit... top-speed also acted like I weighed 400 lbs (kicked me back allot more)... and that SR244 didn't fit (cut off the outter knobs as well as shaved the case where I could... lack of clearance was a hazzard in more ways than one too).

So I today I installed the 2.50-14 standard knobby.  Its also labeled 87-5718, GS-45F, and Mfg PN: T10299.  I've had 1 ride on it in snowy/icy conditions with a about 20 psi in it.  Id say its what I wanted to start with.  In the pic its the one on the right.  Stock is in the middle and the SR244 is on the left. 

The 2.75-14 SR244 was 20.5" diameter inflated (measured).  The SR244 was too big, effected the command-input so it felt like it lost torque most notably at very low and very high speeds).  Stock was 19" diameter... and the The 2.50-14 is about 18.75" (I just measured that), so it seems to handle better.  Its much more manouverable than it was, even better than stock.  As for squishy tire, it was soft enough with 20 psi.  So all in all I'm happy with it! 

...

20191218_150647.jpg

I just now replaced the knobby with a Shinko SR241.  So here's an update then notes on the install... and ps: lights out. 

Knobby Tire UPDATE: 

1. The knobby was great for winter snow/mud, but the knobs made a bit of road noise.  It also limited command-authority for speed to about 25 mph (without major foot position adjustment, powerpads, etc).  Deep snow or mud also requires more command authority similar to highest speed with a high-friction knobby on pavement.  Yet it was the most increadible confidence booster in mud, wow!

2. I had previously trimmed the shell of the MSX to accommodate the SR244 (biggest tire I tried).  So I was surprised the SR241 rubbed so tight that the wheel wouldn't spin when I had it back together.  It wasn't as tight as the SR244 (which I had shaved the knobs on too).   

The SR241 install process:

1. Put it together loosely without the screws to hold the shell together but some of the Allen bolts.  No pedals yet.

2. Power on and squeeze to make it rub while spinning (took it outside for that).

3. Spin wheel full speed while rubbing each side of the tire on a cement block for about a minute per side.

4. Add shell screws loose, spin some more, tighten a little at a time and spin, tighten, spin, tighten (too tight and it won't power up).  Rub some more on the cement block...

5. Install pedals and go for a ride --- sweet! 

The process took about 20 minutes to get it ride'able.  Before that, it oscillated in the stopped position too much if it powered up at all (with stuck tight wheel). 

SR241 1st Ride:

My dog runs faster with it, must be he didn't like the noise of the knobby.  Its 'twitchy' responsive compared to the Knobby, and probably more twitchy than stock - like it rides on the center ridge.  Its also no where near the traction on mud like the knobby... I slipped several times in 20 yards (without falling) it in my muddy yard.  It does ride great as a ROAD TIRE with just enough tread that it might save you from something soft.  I will keep it on till at least next November (when the snow really kicks in here in central NY).

Lighting system dead:

About 3 months ago I was messing with wheel log and free-spin into cutout when the lighting system quit.  This is the 1st time I opened the wheel since then and I've confirmed there aren't any visible wire-connection problems.  The app won't command them on either.  So my best theory as to why the lighting went out is that it got a back-emf voltage spike from a free-spin-cut-out. 

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20 hours ago, Elliott Reitz said:

I just now replaced the knobby with a Shinko SR241.

Interesting! I'd love to hear more direct comparisons between the SR241 and SR244, if you will. :)

 

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