Jump to content
Jean Dublin

KingSong 16X 1554Wh 2200W 16*3in (Released July 2019)

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, buell47 said:

I'm on 1.0.7 too and if I disconnect the charger, then Bluetooth is also off. 

Okay so just to confirm...

  1. You turn your wheel off.
  2. You charge your wheel.
  3. The app can connect while charging.
  4. You remove the charger,
  5. You can no longer connect the App?

Interesting... Would you happen to know what version your control board is? 

The results I had were with a v1.4 control board. But I do have a v1.5 I could test too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, The Fat Unicyclist said:

I have just noticed something that might explain this...

On v1.07 I can connect the app to the wheel while it is charging. Once it is charged and disconnected from the charger I can still connect the app. And even 12 hours later that is still the case. But if I then power the wheel on and off again, the app will no longer connect.

So it appears that the doesn't fully power down after charging and powering it up and down then resets it.

Combine this behaviour with an app that can sometimes start itself up in the background... And you might just be inadvertently connecting to the wheel, which of course then beeps!

Mystery solved???   :huh:

I just woke up and just this morning another 16x friend of mine experienced the 4 slow beeps after charging and with app closed on his phone. He realised that he can still see the faint red light through his shell indicating the wheel isn’t off. And that there was slight voltage drain as well. 
 

I dunno why this is happening, perhaps a bug from v1.07. But I’m expecting more of you to slowly have this happen to u. 
 

 

Edited by Garrie Lim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Not if we don't update our firmware :D

True that. Haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm still not doing too well on the 16X.  Getting better on the KS has made me a god on the MTen3.  Just can't seem to slow maneuver on the 16X still.  Lowering the tire pressure helped some.

Edited by xorbe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, xorbe said:

I'm still not doing too well on the 16X.  Getting better on the KS has made me a god on the MTen3.  Just can't seem to slow maneuver on the 16X still.  Lowering the tire pressure helped some.

if you know how to ride a bike and know how to go slow on a bike it is the same.  going slow, you need to twist the unit to keep it from falling.  the leaning left and right will not work well and it is exhausting to do so.  twist the wheel to the direction of falling to catch yourself...  this technique works well for going slower than walking.  the slower you go the less help you get from the rolling effect to keep you balanced and upright.  hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, xorbe said:

I'm still not doing too well on the 16X.  Getting better on the KS has made me a god on the MTen3.  Just can't seem to slow maneuver on the 16X still.  Lowering the tire pressure helped some.

16X is the best slow riding wheel I’ve ridden. You can ride to almost a standstill with it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, buell47 said:

What do I have to consider when ordering the print? Do I have to pay attention to the material, are there different procedures?

How thick are the side parts?

 

I've printed it in PLA and that's been good. Other common plastics like PETG or ABS would likely work well, too. I would recommend at least 4 outer perimeters, and 25% infill has been adequate for me, though 33% wouldn't hurt, especially for PETG or ABS, since they aren't as stiff as PLA. 

The sides are 1.5cm thick, and the base pieces are 2cm thick.

Edited by redfoxdude

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Garrie Lim said:

. He realised that he can still see the faint red light through his shell indicating the wheel isn’t off. And that there was slight voltage drain as well. 
 


 

 

I get the faint red light too sometimes. I just thought it was the Chinese government secretly spying on us.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, Harvey Pooka said:

I get the faint red light too sometimes. I just thought it was the Chinese government secretly spying on us.

Maybe they are. Lol

Don't undress in front of your wheel...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Garrie Lim said:

Maybe they are. Lol

Don't undress in front of your wheel...

So I guess riding naked was a bad idea then?   :unsure:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, The Fat Unicyclist said:

Okay so just to confirm...

  1. You turn your wheel off.
  2. You charge your wheel.
  3. The app can connect while charging.
  4. You remove the charger,
  5. You can no longer connect the App?

Interesting... Would you happen to know what version your control board is? 

The results I had were with a v1.4 control board. But I do have a v1.5 I could test too.

That's exactly how I did it. Unfortunately I didn't check the version of the control board when I opened it.

However, I assume that it is the first version, since I have one of the first.

Prod. # 190627

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, xorbe said:

I'm still not doing too well on the 16X.  Getting better on the KS has made me a god on the MTen3.  Just can't seem to slow maneuver on the 16X still.  Lowering the tire pressure helped some.

It all depends on how much I need to turn. But if you are familiar with skiing, it is same principle. 

I turn by either one or combination of these techniques:

1) Bending one knee, which shift my weight. 

2) Twisting/moment in my hip. 

3) Twisting shoulders, looking where I want to turn to. 

One way of training this, is carving in s turns, then try to make the forward direction shorter as you turn. This should make you turn tighter without thinking about it. After some training this becomes second nature moments and you will also find you are now more connected to the wheel. Side effect is, that it is easier to go slow as you can easier and faster catch you balance with micro version of the same movements. 

Edited by Unventor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, redfoxdude said:

Hi! That's my design. Cool to see folks printing it! The 20.3cm wide base and the regular side are what fit the 16X. :)

Thanks for this! I have been using EUCGuys widest one for my 16x so far it and wasn't quite wide enough. Going to get to printing this bad boy later today. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wide and narrow tires behave very differently when riding at or below walking speeds. On a 2.125” or even a 2.5” tire one must indeed tilt quite a lot to get enough steering, and the ground resistance towards twisting is small enough to warrant the twisting motion at low speeds.

On a 3” tire, steering by tilting is much more effective, and especially on the 18x3.0” MSX the ground resistance towards twisting is a lot higher, making twisting the more exhausting way.

Try both techniques to find your personal combination for your tire size, tire pressure, and personal physique.

Edited by mrelwood

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The wheel fails to retain the lighting mode setting after a power cycle. Literally unridable! /s

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Wide and narrow tires behave very differently when riding at or below walking speeds. On a 2.125” or even a 2.5” tire one must indeed tilt quite a lot to get enough steering, and the ground resistance towards twisting is small enough to warrant the twisting motion at low speeds.

On a 3” tire, steering by tilting is much more effective, and especially on the 18x3.0” MSX the ground resistance towards twisting is a lot higher, making twisting the more exhausting way.

Try both techniques to find your personal combination for your tire size, tire pressure, and personal physique.

It isn’t the 3” tire that makes it harder to twist, it is the diameter of the wheel.  On msx, it is 19”, try it on a mten3, see how easy it is to twist, same 3” tire.  You can try with a stick, 10” vs 19” hold it in you hand, try twisting them, no contact except with air, the resistance you are feeling isn’t because of the contact patch, though it does come into play, not how you think.  I find the thicker the tire, the easier to twist.  Think the thicker it is the more round, less contact patch at same psi for thicker tires.  That is why I need the psi to be much lower on my 16x and Nik+ to feel more stable and less twitchy.  

Also I find best way to learn is to watch manual unicycles and what they do.   They don’t lean to regain balance, rather they twist, like in my bike example.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish I could try a 16X with half the battery, and the weight removed from the top and front/rear extremities.  Compared to the tiny MTen3, there's a lot more of both yaw and lean inertia to overcome both on starting and stopping adjustments.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, eddiemoy said:

It isn’t the 3” tire that makes it harder to twist, it is the diameter of the wheel.

No it isn't, it's the size and shape of the contact patch, and the tire material and in some cases the tread as well. Sure the diameter also has an effect, but a lot less than the width. No doubt the Mten is easier to twist, as the diameter is about 45% smaller. Other 3" wheels are spec'd as 16" or 18", the difference in diameter being about 10%. 18XL is already a lot easier to twist than the MSX, despite being just 17% narrower than the MSX tire, and a lot less difference in the diameter.

IIRC, you haven't ridden the MSX very much? I have tried three different tires on my MSX. The H-666 already was noticeably easier to twist than the original that bounced back vigorously. The current knobby tire is extremely easy to twist, even more so than my recollection of the original 14" tire on an IPS Zero.

Quote

You can try with a stick, 10” vs 19” hold it in you hand, try twisting them, no contact except with air

Inertia has nothing to do with the friction against pavement that I am talking about.

Quote

less contact patch at same psi for thicker tires.

I don't know what you're drinking but I know I don't want any. But you are going in the right direction bringing up the contact patch size.

Quote

Also I find best way to learn is to watch manual unicycles and what they do.   They don’t lean to regain balance, rather they twist, like in my bike example.

Umm... Manual unicycles have a seat between one's thighs making it impossible to tilt. They are ridden differently than an EUC in every single measure, and besides parts of personal balance, none of the skills translate either way. I wouldn't draw any conclusions based on a very different kind of a vehicle.

Edited by mrelwood

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, mrelwood said:

No it isn't, it's the size and shape of the contact patch, and the tire material and in some cases the tread as well. Sure the diameter also has an effect, but a lot less than the width. No doubt the Mten is easier to twist, as the diameter is about 45% smaller. Other 3" wheels are spec'd as 16" or 18", the difference in diameter being about 10%. 18XL is already a lot easier to twist than the MSX, despite being just 17% narrower than the MSX tire, and a lot less difference in the diameter.

IIRC, you haven't ridden the MSX very much? I have tried three different tires on my MSX. The H-666 already was noticeably easier to twist than the original that bounced back vigorously. The current knobby tire is extremely easy to twist, even more so than my recollection of the original 14" tire on an IPS Zero.

Inertia has nothing to do with the friction against pavement that I am talking about.

I don't know what you're drinking but I know I don't want any. But you are going in the right direction bringing up the contact patch size.

Umm... Manual unicycles have a seat between one's thighs making it impossible to twist. They are ridden differently than an EUC in every single measure, and besides parts of personal balance, none of the skills translate either way. I wouldn't draw any conclusions based on a very different kind of a vehicle.

Sorry, but I don’t think you’ve seen any folks on manual unicycles and from your language you definitely don’t know how to ride a manual unicycle.  Twisting is an essential skill.  Skills from manual translate to EUC, but not the other way around. 

Learn to ride a manual unicycle before talking about what you can and cannot do on it. 

definitely different views.

Edited by eddiemoy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, eddiemoy said:

Sorry, but I don’t think you’ve seen any folks on manual unicycles and from your language you definitely don’t know how to ride a manual unicycle.  Twisting is an essential skill.

That was a typo. I obviously meant to write "tilt".

Quote

Learn to ride a manual unicycle before talking about what you can and cannot do on it.

I know this comment was based on a typo, but in response I still want to say that perhaps you should learn to tilt on an EUC before labelling it as a wrong technique.

Edited by mrelwood

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, mrelwood said:

That was a typo. I obviously meant to write "tilt".

I know this comment was based on a typo, but in response I still want to say that perhaps you should learn to tilt on an EUC before labelling it as a wrong technique.

I started with the tilting technique in the streets of NYC riding next to my friends.  exhausting, until i figure out how to twist from manual unicycling.  used so much less energy.  sometimes i still mistakenly tilt, there is a break even point where tilting is good, but when going very slow, only way to go is twisting.  if you look at the self balancing motorcycles, they all use the same thing, twising the front wheel to stay upright without even moving forward or backward.   let me guess, you argument is that that isn't the same as an EUC?  Anyway, this is what I now from experience and your experience is different.  You are not going to convince me and I'm not going to convince you.  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, eddiemoy said:

Skills from Manila translate to EUC, but not the other way around. 

 

So, do they do a lot of unicycle riding in the Philippines?  😛

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/12/2019 at 6:48 PM, The Fat Unicyclist said:

Okay so just to confirm...

  1. You turn your wheel off.
  2. You charge your wheel.
  3. The app can connect while charging.
  4. You remove the charger,
  5. You can no longer connect the App?

Interesting... Would you happen to know what version your control board is? 

The results I had were with a v1.4 control board. But I do have a v1.5 I could test too.

Can you say more on the version of the control board?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...