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Z10 Trolley Stuck (Repair)


darkflame808
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Hi everyone, I had a problem today where after a small tumble (1mph) the wheel had a small ding near the bottom support bracket that caused the trolley to become incredibly difficult to open and close (I literally had to almost break the handle to get it to open and had to pound it with a hammer to get it to close). I contemplated retrofitting a V5F/V5D handle as a replacement because of the stickiness that this trolley was giving me (progressively got worse over time).

 

So with nothing to lose, I decided to see if I could repair the trolley. I am happy to report that I was able to repair my trolley and even get it functioning to a point that was better than when it was new! Sadly, because I was (am) drunk. It didn't dawn on me to document my progress. But because I think I will forget tomorrow so I want to type this up before it fades.. Forgive me if this don't make sense bear with me ok.

 

You need tools.

  1. Torx T-10
  2. Phillips Screwdriver
  3. Tape
  4. Hammer
  5. Finger

 

  1. Ok, Extend trolley while mounted to Z10 and mark with tape the side that needs to be fixed.
  2. Retract trolley and remove the Torx T-10 bolts securing trolley to Z10
  3. Remove trolley
  4. Sip beer
  5. with trolley removed, on the BOTTOM of the trolley you will find support bracket (metal piece connecting both sides of trolley together)
    1. Remove 1 phillips screw on the rear of the bracket holding bracket to trolley
    2. Remove trolley bracket
    3. Using finger, pry off plastic bottom cap.
  6. Extend trolley a little bit and remove two phillips on the front side under the handle on each side. (4 screws total)
    1. Remove handle
  7. Sip beer
  8. at this point, your trolley is not supported too well so be careful to not accidently torque it or have it bend from hitting it or anything. Pop one trolley side down and it should pop out the bottom where the support bracket (cap) was removed.
    1. place finger on the front AS THE BRACKET IS COMING OUT, there is a spring that holds the bearing, it will shoot out when the bracket pops out (I lost my bearings cause I didn't know this tonight)
    2. put springs and bearings someplace safe, repeat for other side.
  9. beer!
  10. you should have two tralley extendable handles you can repeat the process for each smaller sub piece by repeating the process, each piece pops out the lower portion. remember to save the ball and spring.

Ok now that we got it all in pieces, we will fix it.

Take the piece that's binding and insert it or retract it to the point that it binds. note the direction that you are binding (inserting or removing) and mark that section with tape..

Now that the tape is marked, extend the trolley and using  your finger to judge the distance from the tape to where the bind is. So in my situation, the second lowest portion was binding when I tried to lower it into the lowest leg. So when it binded, I marked the second lowest leg (smaller leg with tape) then extended it again, now I can see how far the second lowest leg is going in before it gets stuck....damnit i'm not making sense.

 

ok imagine this, insert leg, it gets stuck, mark with tape, extend leg, measure distance, three inches. ok so now I know three inches into the LOWER leg, it's getting stuck, so now I the leg, push it in till it get stuck again, then push about 1 inch more. Now I know the leg is four inches inside the lower leg.

 

Take your hammer and tap (pound) the outer leg, it will conform the metal to the shape of the inner leg since the bend is binding. then extend and retract again. Each time you tap you are conforming the metal more and more. Make sure where you are hitting is where the bind is, don't pound the hollow part of the alluminum cause it will be bending it out of conform shape.

 

After about 2-3 sessions, it will be smooth again. Remember to put spring in circle groove and press bearing into groove and put trolley back into place, it will click into place when it hits the locking portion.

 

Ok that's how you fix it. and on side note if you want, you can drill two holes on top side in the BACK of the trolley (opposite to the front side). If you do this, you can rotate trolley handle pieces (each side) 180 degrees so that the bearings face back instead of front and you can secure handle to the front still so it will look the same except bearings are in back now. this way you can walk z10 backwards and the pressure on the trolley won't cause the bearings to want to drop the trolley handle down. that was my problem. Or if you want, you can remove handles like in steps above, and replace donky spring with something seriously powerful and it will put more pressure on bearings to prevent them from collapsing. I will do this, I lost bearings so I goign store and by more. I think its bb size but not sure I will take ball out and shop for same size.  Or just drop ball on hole and see if it sits well. I plan to make spring relaly strong cause it always drops when I walking.

 

ok i hope that helps sorry! g'nite!

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sorry i was thinking, you might not even need to disassemble the trolley. I think if you collapse it completely, take a hammer and just tap tap tap on all four sides of each handle it will mold the metals into shape without the need for measuring or hitting hollow parts. but don't quote me on it. i'm just thinking in my head (the way I did it worked though)

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