Edit : MCM5 800Wh (p.2)

[stephen]

1 hour ago, chopsywa said:

I have the new Huawei with the new EMUI interface (which I love) swipes left or right go back, so you need to do a gentler swipe from the left to bring in a menu

Swipe from  the top of the huawei phone the swipe jesture doesn't work near the top but it will for wheel log 😊😊 just a tip😉

[Marty Backe]

1 hour ago, chopsywa said:

Thanks got it. It wasn't obvious as I have the new Huawei with the new EMUI interface (which I love) swipes left or right go back, so you need to do a gentler swipe from the left to bring in a menu. Does everything except calibrate as you said and it allowed me to set the battery voltage too.

Tonight after work, I will go for a proper ride and get some distance under my belt. It feels wonderful in the carpark compared to my oldie. So comfortable with those giant footpads and the thin profile. I set the tilt back to 24km/h and I didn't really notice anything up to 28km/h, so not sure if it is that subtle and I am missing it, or whether they only start to tilt back after sustained running at the speed they are set to. I will know more after I go further than the 50m length of my office carpark.

One thing I did notice though and I think might simply be attributed to it only being a 14" wheel, hence pedals are quite low, is I was scraping the pedals in tighter turns. I think I am trying to turn too fast, but the wheel is so stable under a turn it just wants to lean in. Gave me a bit of a fright as the aluminium grabs on the asphalt.

I think you just need to adjust your turning technique. I never scrape my MCM5 pedals and I can turn very tightly (at reduced speed of course). Enjoy the new wheel 

[Smoother]

A bit late now, but @Boubalou s shipping probably took so long because it was over the Christmas shopping period, when hundreds of millions of more packages are flowing through the system.

[Flying W]

8 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

It's coming up on 4-weeks and I can begin to fully lift my arm unassisted, but very slowly. It's amazing how long it can take to recover.

This is great news! The selfish side in most of us are eagerly awaiting the 18XL stress test!  

 

[Boubalou]

Perhaps Smoother, but it wasn't a problem, my old wheel have done the job waiting the MCM5.

After 40km I'm very satisfied with my MCM5, I now have the good technique to brake in hard mode.
For improvements, I would like to have the perfect wheel :
- 16",
- lighter,
- more compact,
- true lighthouse,
- trolley less hard to handle (I put a little bit of WD40 to help),
- with full holes handle,
- ability to disable beeps when on / off and connected to the app,
- a charger with more LEDs to know the approximate charge level whithout the app.

Finally I will buy the pads to do a try. I think it's more comfortable for stops and starts to hold the wheels or to replace feet or one feet.
I often carry parcels and when you carry a cardboard on one side and that the weight is not centered, it is good to be able to wedge the wheel on one leg and whithout side pads the wheel and the driver are tilted.

I don't understand how work LEDs, there is a parameter in the app but it does not change anything and it remains allways on LED6...

[Marty Backe]

2 hours ago, Boubalou said:

Perhaps Smoother, but it wasn't a problem, my old wheel have done the job waiting the MCM5.

After 40km I'm very satisfied with my MCM5, I now have the good technique to brake in hard mode.
For improvements, I would like to have the perfect wheel :
- 16",
- lighter,
- more compact,
- true lighthouse,
- trolley less hard to handle (I put a little bit of WD40 to help),
- with full holes handle,
- ability to disable beeps when on / off and connected to the app,
- a charger with more LEDs to know the approximate charge level whithout the app.

Finally I will buy the pads to do a try. I think it's more comfortable for stops and starts to hold the wheels or to replace feet or one feet.
I often carry parcels and when you carry a cardboard on one side and that the weight is not centered, it is good to be able to wedge the wheel on one leg and whithout side pads the wheel and the driver are tilted.

I don't understand how work LEDs, there is a parameter in the app but it does not change anything and it remains allways on LED6...

The Gotway LEDs are not configurable by the app. You change the LED mode via the power button:

1. Turn on the wheel
2. Press the power button briefly to turn on the light
3. Press the power button briefly again
4. Press the power button briefly again to turn off the light - now the LED mode will switch.

Repeat steps 2 thru 4 to cycle through the 6 (I think) LED modes.

The wheel remembers the last mode you were in whenever you turn on the wheel.

My favorite mode is the all red LED mode.

[Boubalou]

Thank you Marty for the informations, I will try tomorrow morning.

I’m surprised to don’t have a notice with all this informations but fortunately there’s the forum!!! 

I’m looking for a helmet so I don’t want to push too hard my wheel for the moment so I put the tilt back at 33 km/h to be quiet with the speed limit...🙃 But, I’m not sure it’s a good idea because this morning I was trying to push a little bit after the soft limit (33 km/h) watching what it was going to happen. Pushing a little bit more with this soft limit I’m arrived at 34 / 35 km/h in the GW app. After a few moment with hands in pockets, I afraid myself saying me “and if there is a big tilt back because I put the limitation at 33km/h and I want absolutely push the speed) so after this thing I decrease my speed. Can appears a “big tilt back” or something else before to be to the max speed (40km/h) of the wheel? 

At high speed it’s easy to leaning front the body and push more. I think better would be to leaning back a little beet more the wheel to have a better feeling of the speed limit although we have a good feeling acceleration with the experience. I feel there is no acceleration after 34 km/h but like all is ok the wheel perfectly plane, my head says “push more” 😋

And thank you very much Marty and Flying to help me in my choice, it’s a really good one.

[Marty Backe]

19 minutes ago, Boubalou said:

Thank you Marty for the informations, I will try tomorrow morning.

I’m surprised to don’t have a notice with all this informations but fortunately there’s the forum!!! 

I’m looking for a helmet so I don’t want to push too hard my wheel for the moment so I put the tilt back at 33 km/h to be quiet with the speed limit...🙃 But, I’m not sure it’s a good idea because this morning I was trying to push a little bit after the soft limit (33 km/h) watching what it was going to happen. Pushing a little bit more with this soft limit I’m arrived at 34 / 35 km/h in the GW app. After a few moment with hands in pockets, I afraid myself saying me “and if there is a big tilt back because I put the limitation at 33km/h and I want absolutely push the speed) so after this thing I decrease my speed. Can appears a “big tilt back” or something else before to be to the max speed (40km/h) of the wheel? 

At high speed it’s easy to leaning front the body and push more. I think better would be to leaning back a little beet more the wheel to have a better feeling of the speed limit although we have a good feeling acceleration with the experience. I feel there is no acceleration after 34 km/h but like all is ok the wheel perfectly plane, my head says “push more” 😋

And thank you very much Marty and Flying to help me in my choice, it’s a really good one.

Do this, which I recommend that everyone do with a new wheel. Set the tilt-back speed to 10 km/h and ride the wheel. This will let you feel what tilt-back is like for your particular wheel, at a safe 'test' speed, and this 'test' will also confirm that your tilt-back settings are taking affect. Than change the tilt-back to your final desired speed.

[chopsywa]

My first impressions. I did a short 11km (7 mile) ride last night before dinner. At this point, I am still figuring out the wheel dynamics, but it does feel markedly different to my old MCM3. The old wheel had no real features. It only beeped at the 3 set points, which I had disabled on all but the mandatory last one. The beeper had gone very quiet and it was a bit disconcerting to ride as you barely heard the final warning.

I went on pavement and road. Over a few overpasses that cross a freeway near my home. These are quite steep and spiral at each end. I noticed the wheel is constantly changing its pedal attitude which feels strange. It seems to dip forward at really low speed (tilt back is set at 27km/h). It also seems to try to compensate for hills, so when I go down the spiral ramp on the overpass, it starts to lean forward where on the old wheel it would always be level with the horizon, thus leaning back in relation to the road. This is disconcerting. I'm guessing that the microprocessor is evaluating the angle of the wheel against the positive drive going downhill and trying to compensate. This was noticeable on the flat also. It was quite windy last night (around 15-20 knots). When I rode downwind, it was tilted forward more than up wind. This seems to confirm my thought that  the wheel is evaluating load to try to dynamically keep the wheel level with the road surface based on effort. It could be my imagination, but the slow rocking forward and backward is definitely real. All this was on medium setting.

On the tiltback. This seems a bit variable. I kept moving it up higher as it intervened to a point (27km/h, or 17mph) where I thought this is enough for riding with just a helmet and wrist guards. It definitely doesn't  kick in too soon, but the amount it comes on seems to change. I suspect it comes in slowly, so short bursts don't send it back quickly, so if  you go over by a couple of km/h,  it just comes back a little, but winds on a bit further if you don't  back off until it just gets too uncomfortable to keep going that speed. If this is the case, it is doing a good job. It is giving some leeway without scaring the daylights out of you and  it is very easy to get speed blind, so you think you are going half of what you really are doing.

The foot pedals are nice and big and now my feet hurt in a totally different place.  They just get tired now where they used to ache from hanging over the edge of the pedals. Big tick there. The grips are really strong, but I am used to being able to shuffle around and this takes more practice. I have to lift off now and even with the higher wheel, I can't do this easily as it hurts like hell when to try to stand on one foot. 

I love the profile. Having feet and legs completely clear of the device makes it comfortable and weaving feels just like snow skiing (although I do tend to lean it quite hard and catch the pedals). I don't know how you do it @Marty Backe, because it is the lean that creates the turn radius. Maybe I am just trying to push it too hard. I do love pushing through the twisties on my motorcycle (Yamaha MT/FZ 09), so maybe I just expect more than is reasonable.

The medium setting on this wheel is far firmer than Madden mode on the old one. Braking is awesome. I am loathe to push it too hard as I have had too many crashes overleaning the MCM3, but it is very firm.

The casing comes down very low to the ground. I went diagonally up an angled kerb onto a driveway that I would go up and down every day on the MCM3 and the case took a real hit on the front left edge. I will have to remember to go front on to these in future. 

The best part though was that after 13km in total against strong wind and up and down hills, the battery is still at 80%. My MCM3 would be ready to charge now.

In the absence of being able to test ride a 16" wheel, which was what I set out to buy (and would still love to try), I think choosing the MCM5 was a good decision. Thanks Marty (and others). You are an ambassador for the brand.

[Marty Backe]

1 hour ago, chopsywa said:

My first impressions. I did a short 11km (7 mile) ride last night before dinner. At this point, I am still figuring out the wheel dynamics, but it does feel markedly different to my old MCM3. The old wheel had no real features. It only beeped at the 3 set points, which I had disabled on all but the mandatory last one. The beeper had gone very quiet and it was a bit disconcerting to ride as you barely heard the final warning.

I went on pavement and road. Over a few overpasses that cross a freeway near my home. These are quite steep and spiral at each end. I noticed the wheel is constantly changing its pedal attitude which feels strange. It seems to dip forward at really low speed (tilt back is set at 27km/h). It also seems to try to compensate for hills, so when I go down the spiral ramp on the overpass, it starts to lean forward where on the old wheel it would always be level with the horizon, thus leaning back in relation to the road. This is disconcerting. I'm guessing that the microprocessor is evaluating the angle of the wheel against the positive drive going downhill and trying to compensate. This was noticeable on the flat also. It was quite windy last night (around 15-20 knots). When I rode downwind, it was tilted forward more than up wind. This seems to confirm my thought that  the wheel is evaluating load to try to dynamically keep the wheel level with the road surface based on effort. It could be my imagination, but the slow rocking forward and backward is definitely real. All this was on medium setting.

On the tiltback. This seems a bit variable. I kept moving it up higher as it intervened to a point (27km/h, or 17mph) where I thought this is enough for riding with just a helmet and wrist guards. It definitely doesn't  kick in too soon, but the amount it comes on seems to change. I suspect it comes in slowly, so short bursts don't send it back quickly, so if  you go over by a couple of km/h,  it just comes back a little, but winds on a bit further if you don't  back off until it just gets too uncomfortable to keep going that speed. If this is the case, it is doing a good job. It is giving some leeway without scaring the daylights out of you and  it is very easy to get speed blind, so you think you are going half of what you really are doing.

The foot pedals are nice and big and now my feet hurt in a totally different place.  They just get tired now where they used to ache from hanging over the edge of the pedals. Big tick there. The grips are really strong, but I am used to being able to shuffle around and this takes more practice. I have to lift off now and even with the higher wheel, I can't do this easily as it hurts like hell when to try to stand on one foot. 

I love the profile. Having feet and legs completely clear of the device makes it comfortable and weaving feels just like snow skiing (although I do tend to lean it quite hard and catch the pedals). I don't know how you do it @Marty Backe, because it is the lean that creates the turn radius. Maybe I am just trying to push it too hard. I do love pushing through the twisties on my motorcycle (Yamaha MT/FZ 09), so maybe I just expect more than is reasonable.

The medium setting on this wheel is far firmer than Madden mode on the old one. Braking is awesome. I am loathe to push it too hard as I have had too many crashes overleaning the MCM3, but it is very firm.

The casing comes down very low to the ground. I went diagonally up an angled kerb onto a driveway that I would go up and down every day on the MCM3 and the case took a real hit on the front left edge. I will have to remember to go front on to these in future. 

The best part though was that after 13km in total against strong wind and up and down hills, the battery is still at 80%. My MCM3 would be ready to charge now.

In the absence of being able to test ride a 16" wheel, which was what I set out to buy (and would still love to try), I think choosing the MCM5 was a good decision. Thanks Marty (and others). You are an ambassador for the brand.

Nice report. Regarding the tilting of the pedals, all I can say is, that comes with the soft and medium modes (or whatever they are called in the app). The hard mode is best when you want pedals which are always level with the ground regardless of what you're doing.

FYI, I have tilt-back turned off on all my wheels. I just pay attention to the third alarm and always ride below that speed (which will vary on the MCM5 depending on the battery charge). And since most of the time I'm at or below 22-mph (35-kmh), all the current wheels can safely go that speed except when at very low battery.

What kind of turning radius are you talking about? The kind that you would do for a 180 on a typical small sidewalk?

Glad you're enjoying this little powerhouse of a wheel 

[chopsywa]

35 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

What kind of turning radius are you talking about? The kind that you would do for a 180 on a typical small sidewalk?

Yes that is not a problem. At slow speed doing a U turn on the pavement is easy, but that is at speeds where you are twisting the wheel. I am talking about "slalom" turns, where you are carrying speed and leaning into the turns. I was watching Ian at SpeedyFeet go ripping around a roundabout on a M10 and a Z10 (comparing the two) and I would be loathe to carry that speed and lean on a 14" wheel. The wheel feels good in the turn until the pedal touches. Needless to say this does NOT feel good. I just need to stay in the envelope of the small wheel.

WRT the mode, I will test hard mode. I accidentally put it into medium and didn't notice it until after my ride. I would have started in hard mode had I noticed it.

One other thing I did not mention, not to do with the riding is something @Boubalou mentioned also. That is, I wish the carry handle went right through. At least a reasonable hole on the other side of the shell to get a lock through. When I take my wheel to our local holiday island, I like to lock it up at the bike racks. I can't do it with the MCM5. I am not sure how I will tackle that. The trolley handle is not strong enough. If I was braver, I would consider banging a holesaw through the other side, but then it would not be pretty any more.

[Marty Backe]

4 minutes ago, chopsywa said:

Yes that is not a problem. At slow speed doing a U turn on the pavement is easy, but that is at speeds where you are twisting the wheel. I am talking about "slalom" turns, where you are carrying speed and leaning into the turns. I was watching Ian at SpeedyFeet go ripping around a roundabout on a M10 and a Z10 (comparing the two) and I would be loathe to carry that speed and lean on a 14" wheel. The wheel feels good in the turn until the pedal touches. Needless to say this does NOT feel good. I just need to stay in the envelope of the small wheel.

WRT the mode, I will test hard mode. I accidentally put it into medium and didn't notice it until after my ride. I would have started in hard mode had I noticed it.

One other thing I did not mention, not to do with the riding is something @Boubalou mentioned also. That is, I wish the carry handle went right through. At least a reasonable hole on the other side of the shell to get a lock through. When I take my wheel to our local holiday island, I like to lock it up at the bike racks. I can't do it with the MCM5. I am not sure how I will tackle that. The trolley handle is not strong enough. If I was braver, I would consider banging a holesaw through the other side, but then it would not be pretty any more.

Oh, now I understand. I guess I never take such tight turns at hi-speed for the very reason that you state. That would be disconcerting to get a scrape then.

Totally understand the handle issue regards locking the wheel. That's a tough problem to solve   I wonder if you could epoxy/bolt a lock attachment inside the handle hole or elsewhere. Good luck.

[Smoother]

7 hours ago, chopsywa said:

I went on pavement and road. Over a few overpasses that cross a freeway near my home. These are quite steep and spiral at each end. I noticed the wheel is constantly changing its pedal attitude which feels strange. It seems to dip forward at really low speed (tilt back is set at 27km/h). It also seems to try to compensate for hills, so when I go down the spiral ramp on the overpass, it starts to lean forward where on the old wheel it would always be level with the horizon,

I've never heard of this problem straight from the factory, but this sounds exactly like improper calibration.  What? When calibrating the angle of the shell/pedals fore and aft its vitally important that the shell be 100% vertical left and right.  Get this wrong and you get this classic, dip forward in down hill corners, and turns, etc.  I've had it and many others too.  Re-calibrate the wheel but put some effort and time into making sure it isn't leaning left or right.

Edited January 3, 2019 by Smoother

[Boubalou]

I don't have this problem chopsywa...

I need some help after my tilt back and speed tests. So with Marty advices, this morning I began with a tilt back set at 9 km/h and increase each time of 3km/h after the test. I stoped to increase the tilt back when it was set at 36 km/h you will see why.

In my mind, I was waiting that something strong happened when I push after the tilit back limit but no!

For example with a tilt back set at 12km/h : I start, accelerate, reach about 15km/h, the wheel leaning back to recover 12km/h, and thats all, you continue your ride like if nothing happened! It's smooth and very secure... I saw thatt when the tilt back is performing it's impossible to push more and goes too much over the speed limit set.

When I increase the tilt back speed at 30 and 33 km/h, I doesn't fell the wheel leaning back or just a little bit. The feelings is more conerning the acceleration and the wind, you feel that nothing happens when you want to push more at this speeds.

Arriving with a tilt back set at 36km/h I have had a lot of very speed beeps. During the test with 36 km/h I heard for the first time a beep when I want to accelerate after the limit, so I decrease immediately my speed. I try another time and I have exactly the same beep. Afraid by this beep I immediatly decrease my speed.
Like I want to understand more, I try a third time and decide to push despite the first beep and in this test I heard 3 beeps in about one second all, so I have immediately decrease my speed. I think if I continue to push I would have had the famous 5 beeps?

So after this test I think set the tilt back at 33 km/h is a good thing because you can go 34/35 km/h whithout being worried to heard the beeps (I consider to always drive with a battery at 50% at least for my security).

[Marty Backe]

2 hours ago, Boubalou said:

I don't have this problem chopsywa...

I need some help after my tilt back and speed tests. So with Marty advices, this morning I began with a tilt back set at 9 km/h and increase each time of 3km/h after the test. I stoped to increase the tilt back when it was set at 36 km/h you will see why.

In my mind, I was waiting that something strong happened when I push after the tilit back limit but no!

For example with a tilt back set at 12km/h : I start, accelerate, reach about 15km/h, the wheel leaning back to recover 12km/h, and thats all, you continue your ride like if nothing happened! It's smooth and very secure... I saw thatt when the tilt back is performing it's impossible to push more and goes too much over the speed limit set.

When I increase the tilt back speed at 30 and 33 km/h, I doesn't fell the wheel leaning back or just a little bit. The feelings is more conerning the acceleration and the wind, you feel that nothing happens when you want to push more at this speeds.

Arriving with a tilt back set at 36km/h I have had a lot of very speed beeps. During the test with 36 km/h I heard for the first time a beep when I want to accelerate after the limit, so I decrease immediately my speed. I try another time and I have exactly the same beep. Afraid by this beep I immediatly decrease my speed.
Like I want to understand more, I try a third time and decide to push despite the first beep and in this test I heard 3 beeps in about one second all, so I have immediately decrease my speed. I think if I continue to push I would have had the famous 5 beeps?

So after this test I think set the tilt back at 33 km/h is a good thing because you can go 34/35 km/h whithout being worried to heard the beeps (I consider to always drive with a battery at 50% at least for my security).

I forget, have you disabled the first two alarms? It kind of sounds like they are still active. They are fixed speed alarms and seem rather useless to me. Just pay attention to the 3rd alarm and always slow down a bit if you hear it. The third alarm is the one that's actually telling you that you are exceeding the safe capability of the wheel for any given battery charge level.

[Flying W]

13 hours ago, chopsywa said:

Yes that is not a problem. At slow speed doing a U turn on the pavement is easy, but that is at speeds where you are twisting the wheel. I am talking about "slalom" turns, where you are carrying speed and leaning into the turns. I was watching Ian at SpeedyFeet go ripping around a roundabout on a M10 and a Z10 (comparing the two) and I would be loathe to carry that speed and lean on a 14" wheel. The wheel feels good in the turn until the pedal touches. Needless to say this does NOT feel good. I just need to stay in the envelope of the small wheel.

Since you also like blasting the twisties on your FZ09 (motorcycles are my first addiction) you might want to try getting your body leaned in more than the wheel, sort of like hanging off on the bike to save lean angle.  

I'm sure just like on the bike everyone will have a slight variance to their body positioning. The way I've been doing this is kind of in 3 steps. 

First i slightly point my toes out on the inside foot. Then crouch down a little and put weight on the outside foot which naturally puts your centerline to the inside of the turn. While this is happening I lean into the turn leading with my face and shoulders (like "kissing the mirror" on the bike). 

The tire will make some noise as you radius is less than the lean angle would do on it's own so make sure traction is good. I have slipped once on the 16s on dry ground and it doesnt seem like there is much time or technique to saving it. I was lucky enough to stay on down to about 10mph and then one foot finally found it's way off the pedal and I was on the ground. 

Next to a cow suit on a track day this as close to the same thrill I have ever found and I feel so fortunate that I found this wonderful hobby. If I ever have to be more responsible, like if i had a child,  i could honestly still be happy with just the EUC(s) and keep the bikes off public roads and just do the track days. I like to have fun in the canyons on the bikes but I am responsible enough to keep the knee pucks off the ground on the street, the relatively slow speeds of the EUC let you really test the traction limits safely provided proper gear is worn. 

I think this way of turning would feel very natural for you or anyone else who like canyon riding on bikes. 

I do have the gotway pads for my mcm5. I take them on and off depending on my mood, the way of cornering above works well with them on, but I love the feeling with them off. I'd like to use velcro but to do that I'd have to glue the fuzzy side to the wheel as the tape isnt strong enough to hold the fuzzy side to the shell when ya remove them. 

[Boubalou]

4 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

I forget, have you disabled the first two alarms? It kind of sounds like they are still active. They are fixed speed alarms and seem rather useless to me. Just pay attention to the 3rd alarm and always slow down a bit if you hear it. The third alarm is the one that's actually telling you that you are exceeding the safe capability of the wheel for any given battery charge level.

Yes first and two alarms are disabled, so it’s well beeps from capabilities I heard during the test. 

I read on an other post that you have disabled the tilt back. To do this, you set a very high value ? So, no tilt back but the beeps are here to remember that we are not (or yes 🥴) Superman, it’s depends of the view point 🤗

I think I have now a very good understanding of this wheel.

I really love this MCM5, sometimes I just have to be carefully with high speed on bumpy roads because of the pads absence. I don’t arrive to limit my speed when the path is free I always want the maximum!!! 🧐

To resume, I have decided to set the tilt back at 36 km/h hoping to heard the beeps when needed 😄

Edited January 3, 2019 by Boubalou

[chopsywa]

13 hours ago, Smoother said:

What? When calibrating the angle of the shell/pedals fore and aft its vitally important that the shell be 100% vertical left and right.

OK. Thanks smoother. I have been playing with minor amounts of lean back in the calibration, etc, but I have never realised that the sensor had any lateral (left and right) effect at all. I must say that I have not bothered with this and the wheel would have been leaning slightly. I have been lying on the ground and even put a spirit level across the foot pegs, but all the while it is leaning against a wall. I am glad I still have the box. The bottom packing will probably hold it nicely.

[Smoother]

9 minutes ago, chopsywa said:

OK. Thanks smoother. I have been playing with minor amounts of lean back in the calibration, etc, but I have never realised that the sensor had any lateral (left and right) effect at all. I must say that I have not bothered with this and the wheel would have been leaning slightly. I have been lying on the ground and even put a spirit level across the foot pegs, but all the while it is leaning against a wall. I am glad I still have the box. The bottom packing will probably hold it nicely.

Over a year ago someone explained this to me, and a year before that someone probably explained it to them, or I read it in a thread, but regardless, if we can't pass on helpful information when we think people need it what kind of ass holes are we? (don't answer that).  We are a community and people in a community help each other (and occasionally get into heated lively debates about helmets and other stupid shit.)

It may not fix your problem, but as with all my advice and suggestions, it's worth what you paid for it.

Edited January 3, 2019 by Smoother

[Marty Backe]

6 hours ago, Boubalou said:

Yes first and two alarms are disabled, so it’s well beeps from capabilities I heard during the test. 

I read on an other post that you have disabled the tilt back. To do this, you set a very high value ? So, no tilt back but the beeps are here to remember that we are not (or yes 🥴) Superman, it’s depends of the view point 🤗

I think I have now a very good understanding of this wheel.

I really love this MCM5, sometimes I just have to be carefully with high speed on bumpy roads because of the pads absence. I don’t arrive to limit my speed when the path is free I always want the maximum!!! 🧐

To resume, I have decided to set the tilt back at 36 km/h hoping to heard the beeps when needed 😄

There is an option (it's at the bottom of the list) to disable tilt-back.

Unless you are pushing the MCM5 really fast, you should never here the 3rd alarm (I never do).

[Heyzeus]

I disabled both alarms and tilt back on my mcm4 today.  I could never feel the tiltback even when I set it to a low speed like 16kph.

The tilt back on the ninebot one c/c+ that I got used from @csmyers, was always noticeable if I was nearing it's speed limit.  Maybe the MCM 4 is much more subtle or maybe the tiltback doesn't work or can't be adjusted on the MCM 4 HS version.

I hear the 3rd alarm(80% power alarm?) at about 33/34 kph (21ish mph) when just doing a lift test.  When riding it to test at 90% charge I didn't hear a beep till I hit 19mph and then only heard one beep and slowed down.

Either way, would recommend, it's nice not having it beep constantly when I'm at 15 mph, just mind the beeps and slow down if you hear one after disabling alarms since you are nearing the limit as others have said.

[Boubalou]

Yes too dangerous to disable !!!

This morning the path was free and I was always earing the beeps from 80% and slow down it's time they happens. The best for my 70kg and the MCM5, is to set the tilt at 33 km/h. I can feel a small leaning back of the wheel that says me I'm at 33/35 km/h whithout regard a screen and whithout beeps all 30 seconds. Like that my speed is constant and I think my average speed is better.

16" wheels are dead!!! I knew I was going to be surprised by the new wheels but not at this point. I prefer that builders now work on the weight, compactness and on other points seen before.

For me one wheel is sufficiant, a wheel light and compact (more than the mcm5) but I'm thinking to buy a MSX to go faster and replace my car during long range around the city. But it's not for now and if I have to do the choice of a second wheel I would compared with a Dualtron Thunder.

Edited January 4, 2019 by Boubalou

[Rafal]

I ride with 2nd alarm on. 3 beeps at 35km/h. For city riding it is perfect, because beeps let now pedestrian that I am approaching. An in crowded town it is really useful thing. Then I have alarm on wheellog at 41km/h and tiltback ar 42km/h. This is working very well for me. I know exactly how fast I am riding. 3 beeps at 35km/h, phone vibrate at 41km/h and after that tilltback hit around 43-44km/h. If pushing hard still can reach 47km/h for a second and can sustains continuous 45km/h. For high speeds I feel more safe riding against tiltback with my pedals raised up.

[ED209]

@Rafal how much roughly do you weigh? I am amazed that you can push an MCM5 up to 47km/h, Wow! 

[Boubalou]

ED, it’s on an other wheel, it can’t be a MCM5.

Edited January 4, 2019 by Boubalou