Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 (edited) The guy’s pretty hardcore! I miss his videos! @EUC Extreme are you still riding, or have you moved onto different interests? Edited December 17, 2018 by Hunka Hunka Burning Love 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EUC Extreme Posted December 17, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted December 17, 2018 7 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: The guy’s pretty hardcore! I miss his videos! @EUC Extreme are you still riding, or have you moved onto different interests? Yes I do. Now I have not had much time. He's been busy working hard. There are also health problems. But they both start to relax. Then I'll start again more actively. However, enthusiasm is slowing down the slow EUCs. Either they are too slow, or they break down immediately. It will discourage. 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 (edited) Motor arrived a day early....the bullet connectors on the motor are about 5 mm (4.5 mm at the base and 5 mm at the tip of the male prongs) which is 2mm larger than those on the original motor.... Will need to swap out the bullet connectors or maybe try a butt splice/crimp. The motor wires are a few inches longer that the original motor's and use a staggered bent bullet connector (crimp+solder) approach for safety. The new motor axle ships with two washers whereas the original Monster motor used only one washer beneath the nut. Motor in - case closed - power on First ride after motor installation Edited December 20, 2018 by Bob Eisenman 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 (edited) Sweet! I had mentioned in a post wondering why they didn't use staggered wiring to avoid having the metal connectors clustered right beside each other. They tend to act like little electric heaters so having them all side by side is likely not a good idea from what we've seen in the past. Did they include any clear plastic shrink sleeving? There are butt connectors and crimp tools you can get to make a permanent connection if you don't have plans to disconnect things easily in the future. Or simply get some thick gauge wiring, thermal sleeving and splice in an "expendable" section of wire. Edited December 18, 2018 by Hunka Hunka Burning Love 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 2 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Did they include any clear plastic shrink sleeving? No. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 2 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: I had mentioned in a post wondering why they didn't use staggered wiring to avoid having the metal connectors clustered right beside each other. Hunka speaks......Gotway listens... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 5 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Or simply .....use several inches of the old motor wires with matching 3-ish mm bullet connectors to the control board bullets and join (high temp 200+ C solder) the old/new wires. ( after cutting off the new 5-ish mm bullets on the new motor wires) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 (edited) Be caution (KingSong inside joke) with just soldering those ends on. Although it’s probably not a concern if you’re not climbing hills, but it sounds like any junctions where resistance might be higher like solder joints and connectors likely heat up more than the wire itself. I think I’ve seen EUC Extreme taking a secondary thinner wire and wrap that around the wire ends physically tying them together before soldering the works. With some shrink wrap over top it should be pretty secure. It might be overkill, but in a mission critical situation we need to take extra precautions. Maybe solder crimping with butt connectors would be even better. Edited December 18, 2018 by Hunka Hunka Burning Love 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Marty Backe Posted December 18, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted December 18, 2018 The last time I fully disassembled my Monster I cut the connectors out. I spliced the wires together and soldered them. Used heat-shrink tubing and then zip ties to keep the wires from touching. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 12 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Be caution (KingSong inside joke) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 (edited) Any inclusion of a washer (delivered part came with 2) disallows case closure. The original Monster used no such washers so I mounted the new motor without as it was before. From what I've read the new control board with 5 mm connectors (SpeedyFeet connector video) , which was sent to market flashed with something resembling 'fast shut down' appeared while owners of the Monster with 3 mm connectors from the control board purchased 'new control boards'. The connector conflict became a problem for Monster owners with 3 mm bullet connectors. The stock Monster Motor that was sent from Gotway has staggered 5 mm connectors which would be a perfect match with the newer control board. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=253998368328&category=11332&pm=1&ds=0&t=1545250564174 I've made a good attempt at using the original shims, which may loosen on use, and am debating on the Kingsong virtue of 'be caution' meaning....buy a new control board with the 5 mm connectors and possibly benefit from 'fast shutdown' (board flashed to newest firmware ?) Or adapting the motor wiring to 3 mm bullet connectors as described earlier And get the Monster rolling with 3 mm bullet connectors and motor wire splices. Haven't decided which way I'll go but the 5mm staggered motor connectors matching the new 5 mm Monster control board connectirs looks like a planned product upgrade. I'd forgotten how much effort it takes to change a tire (old tire + new inner tube) and Justina's website (Kingsong?) tire changing video suggestion of heating the tire (I used a hot towel for the last foot of tire spooning) made for a successful tire mount. The Monster tire was much harder for me to change than the Ninebot One E+ 's tire that I replaced a long time ago. Slime in the space between the tube and the tire was a mess to handle. I needed to remove the tire stem in order to deflate the Monster tire. The installed tire and tube seems to have held pressure overnight . Having the misc. parts and screws back together, instead of in various containers, is a relief from having scattered stuff on the floor. Edited December 19, 2018 by Bob Eisenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 (edited) 12-20-2018 Motor in - case closed - power on Edited December 24, 2018 by Bob Eisenman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 12-31-2018 Payment for the Gotway Monster motor (received) was returned from the China Construction Bank with a notification that , as Jane Mo indicated, the account number used was no longer in active use....plus a message from my bank to contact Gotway for the latest account to be used for a wire transfer. 1-1-2019 Jane Mo forwards the 'new' account by email...a Hong Kong Bank "here it is. Bank Name: Hang Seng Bank Limited Account Name:kebye electronic limited Account Number xxxxxxxxxxxxx Bank Address:83 Des Voeux Road Central,HK" 1-1-2019 Jane Mo writes "Thanks" In reply to my email that the wire transfer was made 1-6-2019 Jane Mo writes "we didnt receive the payment ,can you check it with your bank?thanks in advance." 1-7-2019 I write: "Dear Jane, My bank called me today about the wire transfer. They received an email which states THE ACCOUNT (NUMBER?) THAT YOU PROVIDED DOES NOT EXIST. " 1-7-2019 My bank is refunded the $45 wire transfer fee plus the amount of payment for the Gotway Monster motor, inner tube shipping fee and a discretionary amount to cover any costs incurred by Hang Send Bank Limited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 1-12-2019 Jane has emailed a new bank and account to use for the wire transfer plus an additional bank required address in a WeChat conversation we had last night. Hopefully the next payment attempt will transfer as expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 This is a 1300 km follow-up on purchase and installation of new Gotway Monster motor sent from Jane Mo @ Gotway in China. For last few rides (around 1300 km since installing the motor) a slight squeaking sound was heard while 'idling' the EUC at stops like streetlight posts. The axle nuts which push down on the shims had become slightly loose. A 1/2 inch to 1 inch deflection of the big socket wrench was applied. Kafuter's silicon glue was applied to the 7 plug-ins to the main board. The main board, batteries and power connections look the same as the day the motor was installed. Conservative riding choices like smooth paths were used during the 1300 km. No case cracks we're seen. Since the axle nut tightening the squeaking sound has gone. The ten pedal column bolts would not tighten appreciably. Photos: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 (edited) Post 'squeaking'_fix ride: This is a full charge for this 2 battery pack Monster which has a bad cell or two in (probably - maybe - hopefully?) only one of the '84 volt' packs. The 2 battery packs have over 200 charging cycles. Winter riding range for this 220 lb rider is about 20-22 miles. ****** 25 km (15.5 miles) later*** My Google Maps timelines (and Geo Tracker mileages) are always longer than my WheelLog odometer trip values. Maps timeline was 19 miles for today's ride. Edited March 19, 2019 by Bob Eisenman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted July 3, 2019 Author Share Posted July 3, 2019 (edited) About 4,000 km (2400 miles) following the shell replacement a squeaking noise was heard on the Monster. Cracks at the Apex of the 90 degree bend we're found on both shell sides. The pictures hardly show the visible cracks which begin ' high' on the pedal arm mount points and extend several inches down the bolted area. The axle nuts were tightened but not by much. I thought for awhile about buying a right angle strip of carbon fiber (1 or 2 mm thickness) similar to this UK supplier and using an appropriate epoxy (following surface paint removal , abrasion and fluid cleaning) but haven't pursued the idea (yet). https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/cured-carbon-fibre-products/carbon-fibre-angle/carbon-fibre-angle-2mm.html Monster Entry#220 6-27-2019 Multiple rides Start: 12200 km End: 12351 km Ride: 151 km = 94 miles *****Squeaks***one EUC drop at Beverly Stop&Shop in early June 2019 *******Started new motor at 8566 km FIRST INSPECTION (no cracks found) *******Tighten axle nuts at 9895 km ****1429 km ridden before axle nut tightening --------- SECOND INSPECTION ( cracks found) *****Tighten axle nuts at 12351 km ****2486 km ridden before axle nut tightening Note: (almost 4000 total km = about 2400 miles since motor rebuild) Controller board side (right) cracks found in shell at pedal column rear side and top Opposite battery shell side (left) crack found in shell at pedal column front side ********** Recent ride photo Edited July 3, 2019 by Bob Eisenman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bob Eisenman Posted July 24, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 24, 2019 About 2,800 miles, 4,509 km since new shell was installed. Very obvious plastic squeaking noise on the RIGHT (dominant foot). Larger crack (wider gap) found - since the previous inspection. A fiberglass repair attempt (epoxy sets in the next 24 hours) of the Monster shell cracks along the pedal column has been made. Epoxy - JB Weld clear Prepping of the bond area with acetone removed most of the red paint. Sandpaper was used lightly at first but acetone did most of the paint removal. Apply epoxy to the bond surface and the fiberglass patch....then press the fiberglass patch into position. The crack seems to be in a high stress area and mimicks the cracks in the replaced (blue) shell. Rather than remove the shell to destress the shell crack area, I chose to 'patch in place' , leaving the crack area space as shown in the first photograph. Hopefully ,after patch curing and some riding, ....the patch will stay bonded to the shell. Time...... and some riding will tell..... My fiberglass/epoxy repair is cheaper than carbon fiber (purchased online?) but carbon fiber might be a better choice with an appropriate bonding adhesive. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted July 27, 2019 Author Share Posted July 27, 2019 (edited) On 7/24/2019 at 2:06 PM, Bob Eisenman said: Hopefully ,after patch curing and some riding, ....the patch will stay bonded to the shell. After a twenty mile ride to Gloucester the patch remained bonded to the shell: I might patch the crack on the other shell side (LEFT) the same way. Edited July 27, 2019 by Bob Eisenman 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted July 27, 2019 Author Share Posted July 27, 2019 (edited) 72 miles post patch shows light debonding (whitish color) And hard to see (half inch) The geometry of the the case enclosed battery position during shell case flexing might contribute to stress at the debonded area, a design issue in terms of the battery (in it's compartment) pushing against the debonded area. Overall the patch seems to be bonded along the pedal column. More miles will tell if the debonded area lengthens. Not perfect but the patch adds some support to a previously totally cracked and unpatched area. Edited July 27, 2019 by Bob Eisenman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 (edited) A 300 miles post patch check on the Monster's RIGHT side fiberglass patch.... plus I decided to patch the LEFT side too at 80 miles post patch of right side So there's about 220 miles on the LEFT side patch The fiberglass has debonded significantly on both sides adjacent to the battery compartments. Monster's RIGHT (main board) side - battery compartment @ 300 miles post patch ***** Monster's RIGHT (mainboard) side - main board compartment @ 300 miles post patch ***** Monster's LEFT (non main board) side Battery compartment @ 220 miles post patch ***** Monster's LEFT (non main board) side Empty compartment @ 220 miles post patch The Monster feels solid but is easier to turn, apparently because the shell flexes more. I still like the way the residual bonded fiberglass holds the shells problem areas (cracked plastic along pedal column) in place. If debonding continues it may be worth chiseling out the debonded fiberglass-epoxy'd areas, acetone surface cleaning and repatching with new fiberglass......a 15 minute patching job with an overnight epoxy curing time. Next post patch check around 500 miles? Edited August 6, 2019 by Bob Eisenman 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) Today I decided to repatch the Monster's semi-debonded patches applied to the shell-pedal columns with fiberglass/epoxy.....around 600 miles after the initial patch was applied. I took a half day to finish the job. ******** 8-22-2019 (redid the initial patch around noon) At 14109 km = 8767 miles Initial patch was at 8162 miles About 605 miles wear and tear on the initial RIGHT patch 1_Tighten RIGHT (MB) side axle nut 2_Remove and reapply R-fiberglass/epoxy patch Note1: the bonded patch 'peeled' away with some effort. The patch is flexible ..not stiff. Note2: crack depth and case flexibility around it is significant (> an eight inch) Note 3: One shell 'post' at pedal area broken from recent awkward dismount followed by thrashing 'Gotway dance'. 3_About 3:00 pm I repatched the LEFT side (battery compartment). 533 miles wear and tear on L patch 4_tightened the LEFT axle nut The epoxy / fiberglass patch material is flexible when removed. Edited August 23, 2019 by Bob Eisenman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 (edited) So ...I've been riding the Monster for over a year with one of the two 800 Whr battery packs having one or more bad cells limiting the total charge capacity of both packs to 78%. With cold weather approaching I decided to purchase a new 800 WHr battery from eWheels to replace the faulty 800 WHr pack. The new battery arrived on Monday (later determined to be at 49% charge) but the battery charge connector (2 wires one red +, one black - ground) that shipped now uses an XT30U connector rather than the type used in my original Monster purchase. I use the stock charger that puts out 1.5 amperes. Perhaps the change to XT30U better supports fast chargers running at higher amperages. Amazon carries XT30U connectors with installed short wires which I bought. The XT30U connectors arrived on Thursday. https://www.amazon.com/Racingirl-NIDICI-Connector-Silicone-Battery/dp/B07JJ4DDS2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Racingirl+NIDICI+8pcs+Amass+XT30U+Plug+Connector&qid=1570768316&sr=8-3 After swapping/soldering-in the battery charge connector to type XT30U, I separately charged the old (230+ charge cycles/ almost 2 years old) and new battery packs voltages to within a half volt (at about 53% & 74.80 volts) and then reconnected both packs to the Monster. I charged the Monster to 89% of total charge and went out for a late night (29.4 mile) ride in temperatures hovering around 56 F. I got about 0.40 miles per percent of charge. A 100% charge predicts about 35 miles with 5 to 10 ish percent remaining in temps around 56 F. *********ride summary****** 10-10-2019 To Malden and back Start@89% (no load) End @17% (no load) Miles=29.4 # of miles per % battery = 0.408 (for the 1600 WHr battery configuration) Temperature = 56 F (sweater and wind breaker weather plus a knited head cap) Overnight charge to 100% battery Edited October 11, 2019 by Bob Eisenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 14, 2019 Author Share Posted October 14, 2019 (edited) Monster's last range test went to 40.9 miles Range test to Salisbury, Massachusetts Initial charge= 97% (no load) End charge= 9% (no load) Total miles= 40.96 Miles per percent charge= 0.46 Temperature was high 50's to mid 60's Edited October 14, 2019 by Bob Eisenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 (edited) Monster just turned the WheelLog odometer past 16,000 km which means the original MB , one 800 WHr battery (of 2) , pedal columns, shims and the tire from the original purchase have gone that distance. The rest of the Monster (motor, shell, inner tube, 800 WHr battery (1 of 2), pedals) has been replaced over that time period and the MB recorded the elapsed distance since the purchase. The miles per percent of battery charge in 50 ish F weather has been about 0.45 to 0.5 miles per % or 4.5 to 5.0 miles per 10% depletion of the battery charge. Last Range calculation Miles: 30 miles 60% depleted battery Start@95% End@35% 0.5 miles per % battery Temperature@52 F Pace was slow Edited October 31, 2019 by Bob Eisenman 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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