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KS18L Not as described


Siggy

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3 hours ago, Siggy said:

As such I will email third parties again and only ask for this. Speaking of which, @Shangotunji and @eddiemoy would you mind doing me a favour?

Can you please outline points a) and b) in regards to the videos I've posted please. Many thanks.

Happy to do what I can to help bring a fair resolution to this matter. PM (forum email) me with the necessary info. 

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4 hours ago, Siggy said:

. Keep item - cancel dispute, ignore SELLER and simply DIY handle and wheel alignment.

I wouldn't do this unless you have actually identified the problem and are sure that you can repair it. The handle is easy. If you cancel your dispute, the dealer might not honor you reopening the issue and requesting a replacement part. You can most definitely do the handle on your own, but at this point I sticking to your guns with PayPal and doing what they advise to resolve the issue seems the right course of action (Don't contact the dealer on your own anymore).

The wheel issue is an altogether different matter; it may be or may not be an easy fix. If that is the case, something needs a replacment as opposed to repair. In this instance,  a dealer is either sending you a replacement part, or you are sending them your wheel.

Personally,  I prefer that the dealer ship the part to me than me shipping an entire wheel across the country to them. With an EUC, every replaceable part is fairly easy to DIY. 

In my opinion, sending wheels back and forth to dealers can be complicated and costly. As far as I am concerned, as the wheel only has three major parts, it is always DIYable.  

1. The wheel/motor assembly.

2. The batteries. 

3. The control board

I use the dealer as a resource to help me diagnose and identify what needs replacing. Beyond diagnostics, a repair alone rarely requires involving a dealer. A dealer only gets involved if something needs replacing. In which case, the dealers sends replacement part, and I replace it.

If the wheel is experiencing a non-firmware related malfunction and you are not fixing a flat tire or replacing a handle, you are either:

A. Repairing or replacing 1,2, or 3

B. A wire attachment to 1,2 or 3

C. A bolt attachment to 1,2, or 3

 

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5 hours ago, CptSalami said:

I have not been able to have a look at the video regarding the sideways tilt, but believe I might have a similar issue on my KS18S.

Curious if it is the same.

Thanks for this Captain, this is useful.

I will add tire thread into my investigations with the unit. Perhaps a new tire is in order.

Keep me informed with your wheel's progress - I am interested.

 

5 hours ago, CptSalami said:

Anyways, good luck with that refund!

Cheers, I'm confident that this issue will be resolved in my favour in due course.

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1 hour ago, Shangotunji said:

sticking to your guns with PayPal and doing what they advise to resolve the issue seems the right course of action (Don't contact the dealer on your own anymore).

Fully agreed.

1 hour ago, Shangotunji said:

The wheel issue is an altogether different matter; it may be or may not be an easy fix. If that is the case, something needs a replacment as opposed to repair. In this instance,  a dealer is either sending you a replacement part, or you are sending them your wheel.

 

1 hour ago, Shangotunji said:

Personally,  I prefer that the dealer ship the part to me than me shipping an entire wheel across the country to them. With an EUC, every replaceable part is fairly easy to DIY. 

As far as I am concerned, as the wheel only has three major parts, it is always DIYable.  

1. The wheel/motor assembly.

2. The batteries. 

3. The control board

You do a great job of describing so simply - makes things much clearer. Thank you

With the above points I believe 1. is the current issue. 

 

 

The points from the 14.10.18 email timeline outline a potential fix:

 

Hi,
 
This is possible to by yourself if you want.
To do this, you need to detach outer shells like on the video, then unplug the motor on both sides and unscrew these 6 big screws on both sides, to slide out the motor from the casing (watch for the motor cables during that, to not scratch the isolation when sliding them out - you can first wrap them with some duck tape to protect them and then remove the tape at the end).
 
Once it's done, you will find hex screws on the pedal pillars. Simply tighten/loosen some of the screws to perform calibration (so you need to either tighten one pillar, or loosen the other one). The final effect should be to have a similar distance from both pillars to the motor.

 

 

I personally attempted this and the hexes were too tightly screwed in. Thus my priority is still sending the unit back, under paypal's guidance. Since the trustworthiness of the seller has been brought into such question (in this case) my aim is to return for a full refund.

 

 

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I've posted two additional videos (also updated in OG post):

 

a) Item's aesthetic condition

 

 

b) Handle breakage timeline

 

 

This should provide an even clearer record of the situation

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2 hours ago, Siggy said:

personally attempted this and the hexes were too tightly screwed in

Very true. I have short length hexes; which can be difficult to use on tightly torqued items. I corrected this by attaching vise grips to the hex ?  to lengthen the short hex wrench and provide more counter-torque.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/29/2018 at 3:32 PM, spmartin said:

Can you let me know where you purchased your KS-18L protective cover? I'd love to get one. Thanks!!

Hello, this was bought from decathlon, size XL

credit: https://www.espritroue.fr/topic/5945-housse-de-protection-ks18l/

I believe the company is subea 

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/scd-25-mm-np-undersuit-top-id_8242306.html

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  • 2 weeks later...

TIMELINE Pt. 4

22.10.18 - 31.10.18

Various emails sent to sellers to acquire official letterhead with relevant repair cost information - limited responses

(such as speedyfeet, ewheels, kingsong, kingsong europe, project42, 1radswerkstatt and others)

*extension requested to paypal - final date extended to 3.11.18

 

23.10.18 

Vicky at kingsong emails cc'd seller and effectively requests we reconcile

 

28.10.18

Having second thoughts about pursuing the case, I resolve to reconcile. However, the seller seems cold (perhaps understandably defensive). I request apology about situation - seller issues ultimatum to close paypal case and return wheel promptly.

(sadly I'm not good with ultimatums)

IMG_1912.thumb.PNG.611657320d98c910f30171472895c454.PNGIMG_1913.thumb.PNG.d3c2e15738ff1737f8168d814e096f6d.PNGIMG_1914.thumb.PNG.3e36930542ae63e61576363549694ab2.PNG

IMG_1915.thumb.PNG.3e150e1a45dc857e675aff84b87fa70b.PNG

29.10.18

resort to continue case - and worse case scenario fix wheel myself. Also resolve to publish DIY videos to help others who may face similiar situation.

 

31.10.18

paypal close case - favouring SELLER due to lack of suitable evidence

*appeal submitted because agreed extension was not taken into account

 

2.11.18

day before extension deadline: physically visit project42 and halfords to acquire report. Only project 42, specific seller of e wheels, is able to assemble report. Halfords refuse to assist.

 

9.11.18

Paypal credit pending issue - voted in my favour

 

15.11.18

Fully Issued - consider case closed

 

 

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Overall, I am extremely pleased with the result of paypal's findings. I vehemently believe it was the correct decision.

 

However, I'm saddened that such measures were necessary to progress with my wheel. I'm very fortunate to have had the expert knowledge of forum members to lean on. In particular, I want to thank @Lutalo, @eddiemoy and @LanghamP for their help.

 

Additionally, Project42 for helping me - particularly as I'm not even their customer. They are the only brick and mortar E wheel shop in London. Sadly Ian and speedyfeet is not local.

 

Originally, I did not feel comfortable having to publically discuss my SELLER dispute. Nonetheless, I know how important this thread may be for others in the future. Especially, as I continue to read reports from other members of non response from this SELLER. Be careful out there people.

 

In conclusion, this situation has given many learning lessons. As such, I will be much more inclined to learn the DIY of our wheels and share my findings to help other members where I can.

 

Siggy

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Wow, I'm tired just trying to skim this thread!, let alone what you've probably undergone @Siggy. Hopefully you can resolve this soon.

... and if I were living remotely anywhere in the UK, speedyfeetUK would be my main source for EUC (power in numbers), as I believe (might be mistaken) Jason / eWheels is not too keen on selling to the UK any more, post WheelGo days.

 

The handle is a pretty easy fix (provided you are handy and your distributor agrees to replace), so that's a shame if this was a main pain point.

 

As for the overall balance of the wheel, you'd be surprised how sensitive the state of the inner tube is for riding feel.

I'm not a fan of slime either, as over time, I've seen slimed inner tubes bunch up, making inflation/deflation a pain when working on a wheel. 

And also, no one I think has mentioned, evenly re-inflating your inner tube can be important to have a balanced wheel. You can achieve this by partially inflating your wheel, then stand it up, rotate forward/backward a little, then inflate some more, slowly repeating this until reaching the desired PSI. This will ensure the inner tube inflates evenly, as the inner tube can possibly bunch up in places, especially if you like things slightly lower PSI and/or have slime in the inner tube, as described above.

The other checkpoints for a balanced tire I think was covered, tightening the axle / pedal arm fixture hex screws (2 per side, requires ideally a good long hex wrench or torque wrench). 

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appreciate the support @houseofjob!

 

This case has been resolved successfully! In future, I will shop with speedyfeet, or ali and resolve to fix issues myself.

 

I will be recording a video of the handle fix and for de-sliming the inner tube tomorrow. I'll most certainly incorporate your balancing technique as well :)

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Something I also noticed as"Not as described" was the weight.
The original specs sheet from King Song and some sites show "Around 18kg", which ended up being 22kg in the end.
One of the main reasons I got mine was because of the great wheel size/battery/weight ratio at 18kg.

Original KS-18L Parameter Table by KingSong - 15 JAN 2018 - https://kingsong.pl/files/KS-18L_Spec_20180115.pdf - ~18kg

Weight specs as of today 06 DEC 2018 on these websites:
kingsong-europe.com - ~18kg
electricunicycles.eu - "only about 18.8 kg"
eunicycles.eu - 21.8kg
ewheels.com - 48.5lb = 22kg
ewheel.be - 22kg

Anyways, I'm happy with the 18L, even if it's not as light as I thought it would be :P , the trolley (upgraded version replacement) does a good job.

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I think 18KG is the weight without the battery, as with the 18L battery is 22KG and with the 18XL battery is 24KG (50% more battery). Not sure how they got the weight so wrong on the specs and some didn't even fix it yet.

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/7/2018 at 12:13 AM, Jean Dublin said:

I think 18KG is the weight without the battery, as with the 18L battery is 22KG and with the 18XL battery is 24KG (50% more battery). Not sure how they got the weight so wrong on the specs and some didn't even fix it yet.

I can be wrong, but I seem to recall a 840 or 680ish version sold on China home market. At least in the early stages. But this never made it to EU or US market. I guess that would be less weight. 

Imho I do think the KS18L is just right. The added weight makes it more stable. I had a near crash but if I ride my V8 I would have crashed for sure. The centrifugal force and inertial force stablized the wheel enough for me to handle the secondary bump when crossing a small bridge. I posted a video recording. But sadly you don't see what went on as the wheel hits the 2 bumps 2-3 meters apart. 

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29 minutes ago, Unventor said:

I can be wrong, but I seem to recall a 840 or 680ish version sold on China home market. At least in the early stages. But this never made it to EU or US market. I guess that would be less weight. 

Imho I do think the KS18L is just right. The added weight makes it more stable. I had a near crash but if I ride my V8 I would have crashed for sure. The centrifugal force and inertial force stablized the wheel enough for me to handle the secondary bump when crossing a small bridge. I posted a video recording. But sadly you don't see what went on as the wheel hits the 2 bumps 2-3 meters apart. 

The lightest version is 518wh as shown in @FlyingRat video. 

 

Screenshot_20190108-001513.png

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On 12/6/2018 at 2:26 PM, Jean Dublin said:

The original specs sheet from King Song and some sites show "Around 18kg", which ended up being 22kg in the end.

That's the weight with an empty petrol tank :D

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On ‎1‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 12:46 AM, Unventor said:

can be wrong, but I seem to recall a 840 or 680ish version sold on China home market. At least in the early stages. But this never made it to EU or US market. I guess that would be less weight. 

Nope, there never was something different than the 1036wh versions.

840 and 680 are also numbers pointing to a 67Volt battery...so i guess you just mixed something up :-)

On ‎1‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 1:18 AM, ED209 said:

The lightest version is 518wh as shown in @FlyingRat video. 

Thats just a Workaround to have the 18L compliant to the hard "LTA" in Singapore, means there is only one battery pack instead of two…

...i dont know if that is "KS official"...

 

The exact wheight is 21,8 kg for the 18L...i really have no clue how a 18kg has make their way to any announcments, Sorry for that.

Even the 16S with much smaller Wheel Diameter and less cells is allready 17,5kg....so 20plus kg have to be exspected.

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