I just ruined the tire of my Z10 :-(

[Marty Backe]

22 minutes ago, Ch.Eng.62 said:

Unfortunately the core is fine. The leakage is between rubber and the threaded brass part. The rubber is separated from the brass. I have to replace the assembly. 

It is the original valve. The wheel was delivered with tubeless tire. I don't know why this leakage appears 

That's disappointing. I'm still using tubes in my Mten3. Hopefully your case is a fluke.

[Toshio Uemura]

On 10/15/2018 at 12:36 PM, SanDiegoGuy said:

But wow....it is pretty tough to disassemble the Z10

You don’t own it until you dis- and re-assembled it. ?  Hope you get some new in-sights for all of us. 

And trust me: it can be fun to disassemble things once in a while. ? 

But the thing with the power button really is awful. Could probably have happened to any Z10 owner. Thanks ? for taking the fall for us. I will take super care for that power button next time I check my tire pressure.

By the way: Mine turned on once behind the driver seat of my car, because something on the rear seat accidentally came in touch with this super sensitive button. Had my Z tire spinning wildly and ruined my floor mats. Luckily it happened while loading things in my car not while in traffic. Maybe someone will come up with a simple solution, like a snap-on part made of pvc or a hard rubber or soft plastic cover that also acts as additional water protection for the switch and doesn’t spoil the overall looks of the Z too much ...

... someone ...anyone ........ pleeeeeaase?!!

[Marty Backe]

14 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

You don’t own it until you dis- and re-assembled it. ?  Hope you get some new in-sights for all of us. 

And trust me: it can be fun to disassemble things once in a while. ? 

But the thing with the power button really is awful. Could probably have happened to any Z10 owner. Thanks ? for taking the fall for us. I will take super care for that power button next time I check my tire pressure.

By the way: Mine turned on once behind the driver seat of my car, because something on the rear seat accidentally came in touch with this super sensitive button. Had my Z tire spinning wildly and ruined my floor mats. Luckily it happened while loading things in my car not while in traffic. Maybe someone will come up with a simple solution, like a snap-on part made of pvc or a hard rubber or soft plastic cover that also acts as additional water protection for the switch and doesn’t spoil the overall looks of the Z too much ...

... someone ...anyone ........ pleeeeeaase?!!

Someone did. Was is @Lukasz? A 3D printed part to place on the handle that protects the power button.

[Toshio Uemura]

Just now, Marty Backe said:

Someone did. Was is @Lukasz? A 3D printed part to place on the handle that protects the power button.

? thank you. Do you know where I can order that? ? 

[Marty Backe]

1 hour ago, Toshio Uemura said:

? thank you. Do you know where I can order that? ? 

No. But since I tagged @Lukasz, I'm hoping he responds to this thread.

[Lukasz]

2 hours ago, Toshio Uemura said:

thank you. Do you know where I can order that?

Hi Toshio-san

You have 2 options

- PM me and we can discuss shipment of the set - pedal openers ready to stick + button protector ready to stick mods to you by post.

- Download the files I have published - see topics in the NB thread for both - and find the access to the printer, print from black UltraPLA, get strong foam double sided tape, and thin gel double sided tape and stick pedal openers and button protector.  

[SanDiegoGuy]

2 hours ago, Lukasz said:

Hi Toshio-san

You have 2 options

- PM me and we can discuss shipment of the set - pedal openers ready to stick + button protector ready to stick mods to you by post.

- Download the files I have published - see topics in the NB thread for both - and find the access to the printer, print from black UltraPLA, get strong foam double sided tape, and thin gel double sided tape and stick pedal openers and button protector.  

@Lukasz,

I will attend CES this year in Las Vegas and see if they have any new 3D printers on the horizon so I can purchase one.  I want to get a 3D printer.  There are already some good ones out there but since CES is coming up, I decided to wait to get the latest good 3D printer.  I will go back to your 3D file and download it to print it some time in the future.  Thank you in advance.

Edited October 18, 2018 by SanDiegoGuy

[Lukasz]

13 hours ago, SanDiegoGuy said:

I will attend CES this year in Las Vegas and see if they have any new 3D printers on the horizon so I can purchase one.  I want to get a 3D printer.  There are already some good ones out there but since CES is coming up, I decided to wait to get the latest good 3D printer.  I will go back to your 3D file and download it to print it some time in the future.  Thank you in advance.

There is of course constant development in printers, but to print what is needed for Z10 you can do it with very good results on the currently available models... so - to drink a beer it does not require to purchase brewery..    FDM printers are getting in some way better but there will be probably no break-though in next two month.... However - if somebody release new 3d printer which can print from aluminum at reasonable cost (for sure not from titanium as this for sure will be expensive) - I would immediately re-draw and print original design futuristic long and wide pedals for Z10.....

[smallexis]

Maybe you can go to a car or motobike station in order to ask if the could repair it for you? I think it's better to see a professionnal before to try by yourself.

[SanDiegoGuy]

2 hours ago, Lukasz said:

There is of course constant development in printers, but to print what is needed for Z10 you can do it with very good results on the currently available models... so - to drink a beer it does not require to purchase brewery..    FDM printers are getting in some way better but there will be probably no break-though in next two month.... However - if somebody release new 3d printer which can print from aluminum at reasonable cost (for sure not from titanium as this for sure will be expensive) - I would immediately re-draw and print original design futuristic long and wide pedals for Z10.....

I am not getting a 3D printer just to print the stuffs for my Z10.  I want to do other type of advanced 3D printings so I want to purchase the brewery :-)

[SanDiegoGuy]

O.K.....here is an update.

I tried the tool to insert the valve from outside the tire rim and it was a total failure.  I even ruined and tore up the valve.  Never buy that tool that I posted earlier in this thread.  It is garbage and a waste of money.   Luckily I ordered two valves so I had a spare.

Not taking any chances, I opened up the whole Z10 wheel using the Z10 teardown youtube video from houseofjob (thank you for the much helpful video houseofjob) and took the wheel out.  Oh man, that was such a laboring task.  There were so many screws in this Z10.  I have so many bowls to put the screws in and label each bowl so I know where the screws go.  I NEVER want to take out the tire again.  I really hope I do not get a flat on my Z10.  Knock on wood.

Anyway, after getting the wheel/tire out, I took it to a motorcycle shop for them to place the valve inside the tire.  The regular car tire shop could not do it.  I have to go to a motorcycle shop because they have the right tool to dismantle the tire from the rim.  Anyway, it was the best $10 I spent on that day :-)

Now the valve is in place and I have it at 18 psi and will best the Z10 when I have time.  The rider named Chooch is similar to my size and he has it at 10 psi so I hope this new lower psi pressure would give me a better ride.  I had originally had it at stock psi but had no idea how much stock psi was so I tried to check it a few days ago which cause the accident of removing the entire valve from the tire and thus the start of this thread.

Anyway, I really hope no one has to change the tire of the Z10.  Changing the inner tube of my Glide 3 was a cakewalk compare to fixing the tire of the Z10.

Edited October 23, 2018 by SanDiegoGuy

[houseofjob]

@SanDiegoGuy thanks for the update! 

If by chance you took video of the motorcycle shop de-tiring the Z motor, please post! (as I'm curious to know how that's done).

 

1 hour ago, SanDiegoGuy said:

Anyway, I really hope no one has to change the tire of the Z10.  Changing the inner tube of my Glide 3 was a cakewalk compare to fixing the tire of the Z10.

Ha! Hard to beat the Glide 3 / V8 for easiest EUC tire change. The Z10 is most definitely the hardest.

[SanDiegoGuy]

4 minutes ago, houseofjob said:

@SanDiegoGuy thanks for the update! 

If by chance you took video of the motorcycle shop de-tiring the Z motor, please post! (as I'm curious to know how that's done).

 

Sorry, I have no video.  The owner of the shop requested that I sit in the front waiting room while he take the wheel to the back working area to do the tire.

[houseofjob]

@SanDiegoGuy no worries~ 

[Marty Backe]

3 hours ago, SanDiegoGuy said:

O.K.....here is an update.

I tried the tool to insert the valve from outside the tire rim and it was a total failure.  I even ruined and tore up the valve.  Never buy that tool that I posted earlier in this thread.  It is garbage and a waste of money.   Luckily I ordered two valves so I had a spare.

Not taking any chances, I opened up the whole Z10 wheel using the Z10 teardown youtube video from houseofjob (thank you for the much helpful video houseofjob) and took the wheel out.  Oh man, that was such a laboring task.  There were so many screws in this Z10.  I have so many bowls to put the screws in and label each bowl so I know where the screws go.  I NEVER want to take out the tire again.  I really hope I do not get a flat on my Z10.  Knock on wood.

Anyway, after getting the wheel/tire out, I took it to a motorcycle shop for them to place the valve inside the tire.  The regular car tire shop could not do it.  I have to go to a motorcycle shop because they have the right tool to dismantle the tire from the rim.  Anyway, it was the best $10 I spent on that day :-)

Now the valve is in place and I have it at 18 psi and will best the Z10 when I have time.  The rider named Chooch is similar to my size and he has it at 10 psi so I hope this new lower psi pressure would give me a better ride.  I had originally had it at stock psi but had no idea how much stock psi was so I tried to check it a few days ago which cause the accident of removing the entire valve from the tire and thus the start of this thread.

Anyway, I really hope no one has to change the tire of the Z10.  Changing the inner tube of my Glide 3 was a cakewalk compare to fixing the tire of the Z10.

Thanks for the update, and congrat's. I too hope I never have to remove my Z10 tire. Hoping Slime does its job for me.

[Monocyklista]

Hi @SanDiegoGuy, it's been a couple of months since you fixed your Z10. Is everything OK now? I have a simmilar issues with air leaking - 

After experimenting with diffrent solutions I exchanged the valve with the same as you thanks to a mate who gave me from his own Ninebot mini.

Did the replacement solved your issue with air leak and how you inflate your wheel?

I was near to announce end of my problems but when riding on bumpy roads the air leak returns. Now after attaching my pump with the supplied by Ninebot rubber valve extender I couldn't unscrew it, when I finally did, I lost a lot of air. I put the bras extender from 9bot S2 and it stacked for good so that I have to pull out the extender with valve.

This wheel supposed to give me lot of fun and pleasure to ride according to "reviewers" but it gives me the opposite - a lot of frustration. No one mentioned about the bloody rubber extender which damaged the valve.  

 

[David Holderbach]

Hey guys. 

 

How are you. Hate to say it, but I am going to avoid the same words of Stanor.. I just did the same. Button pressed while changing the pressure, fucked everything up. What a freak. 

 

Does anyone know the price / average of replacing the whole tire ? Shall I send it to Segway or can I do it myself ? 

 

Thank you. 

 

David 

[Insider]

On 6/13/2019 at 9:19 AM, Monocyklista said:

@Monocyklista

“...Now after attaching my pump with the supplied by Ninebot rubber valve extender I couldn't unscrew it, when I finally did, I lost a lot of air....”

@Monocyklista Get a bicycle air suspension pump < $30 usd and you will always be able to dial in the exact psi you wanted. A bicycle air suspension pump disconnects at the tube / valve end first before breaking the connection to the pump.

For slow leaks I just use mountain bike tubeless tire sealant - latex based, protect against punctures and much cleaner than the Green Slime. Latex will eventually dry up and will not make a mess of the wheel when you replace the tire.   If you are a car guy you can mix in a little fluorescent dye in the tire sealant.  The fluorescent tracing dye will light up when you hit it with a UV light.. This is a great way to find leaks in an air tight vessel where submersion is not possible. 

Quote

 

[Monocyklista]

@Insider many thanks for your help, but I have already managed to remove the tyre with my friend help and seal it in tyre shop. 

On 12/2/2019 at 12:24 AM, Insider said:

If you are a car guy you can mix in a little fluorescent dye in the tire sealant.

I heard about adding some glitter for the same purpose. Will give a try in the future.

Edited December 3, 2019 by Monocyklista

[Ade]

Don’t need to split the wheel if it’s tubeless 

put z10 flat on floor , with tyre valve at bottom (6 o’clock) break seal of tyre near valve . This will give you enough room to push valve in so far ,thread of valve has gone through wheel . 
then turn wheel to align valve with port hole where you normally inflate tyre. 
thread metal tyre inflater extension on to valve thread and pull up GENTLY until you feel valve seat into position 😜

[RevolvingRider]

On 10/15/2018 at 6:45 AM, Ch.Eng.62 said:

You don't need new tire, but you need NEW valve.

In order to set the valve in place, have to remove the tire from the rim. 

The valve is inserted from the inside. 

I just tried to insert a new valve into my Z10 by pressing the tire down in one side and I got the valve in. , All the way, but now my tire won't inflate.

 

Is there a seal on the Z10 tire that I broke?

 

The tire came down quite easy in the one side but not the other .

On 10/15/2018 at 6:45 AM, Ch.Eng.62 said:

You don't need new tire, but you need NEW valve.

In order to set the valve in place, have to remove the tire from the rim. 

The valve is inserted from the inside. 

I just tried to insert a new valve into my Z10 by pressing the tire down in one side and I got the valve in. , All the way, but now my tire won't inflate.

 

Is there a seal on the Z10 tire that I broke?

 

The tire came down quite easy in the one side but not the other .

[Ch.Eng.62]

For initial setting the tire on place, you need large quantity of air, preferably without the valve core. With hand pump it is not possible. You have to use compressor.

[RevolvingRider]

Thanks for the answer.

I have a small hand compressor, rolled the tire back and forth and tried the compressor and IT WORKED 💪

[Ch.Eng.62]

[Rob Le Page]

Ok so I had a similar issue . Tried to screw an extension onto the really dumb tiny access to the valve and what happens , it got stuck on and just turned and turned . A bit of pressure to unscrew and a bit of pulling and next thing the tiny valve pulls out. Bugger , how the hell do you get this thing back in. Read all the comments here and knowing there is no way to get is back in from the outside and knowing there was not a chance I was dismantling the wheel , plan B . This is how I fixed it in less than 10 minutes. 
1/ press on the edge of the tyre at the valve location to break the bead to allow access

2/ use a clamp to clamp the tyre to depress it enough to allow access to the valve opening

3/ put a bit of grease / dish liquid on the valve and poke it in the hole from the inside and then grab it gently with a pair of pointy nose pliers and pull it gently through the hole to seal it.

4/ then using the valve extender that comes with the wheel tape the end where it screws onto the valve so it doesn’t just turn and turn ( it really is a stupid design) the tape helps to tighten it onto the valve . On the other end install a valve extender this will allow to inflate the tyre .

5/ inflate the tyre to 60 psi then leave to make sure it’s sealed . 
 

Hey Marty , this ones for you and hope this helps any poor bugger This happens to . Crap design but it is what it is . Enjoy you EUC whatever it is