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Ninebot One E+ shut off in the middle of riding.

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11 minutes ago, FreeRide said:

Seems an unlikely place for a failure under the conditions you describe.  Only thing is maybe a tire slip. Dry conditions I take it?  Without a black-box recording everything, I don't think anyone could say why.  It's too bad all wheels don't log everything so that any incident can be analyzed. 

No tire slip , was completely dry , wonderful sunny day , it was so nice , that I went on my motorcycle !! That's why I still can't believe what happened me and in two opportunities !! Still waiting for an explanation from Ninebot . Thank you for your cooperation.

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Mine was a brand new One . the first time that happened , the same , it was supposed to have plenty of battery charge and autonomy, and it didn't want to get the power on. Any warning beep !! Today , after my last crash and shoulder fractured , it has only 31 Kilometers of use and I don't want anyone hurting with this device. If it's not reliable , I don't want it anymore. I am also afraid of selling it to someone that can have a new accident !! Thanks for your comments , I can't believe that the manufacture doesn't explain the real  technical problems that this wheels are having. I just received it from Speedy feet the 18 of september 2018 !! Incredible to hear that your Brand New Z10 also failed !!

Maybe Gotway or King Song are performing better ?

 

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Hi Emmanuel !!

I am afraid now of riding my Ninebot !!

In the price of the One E+ , which one will be more reliable ? I am Thinking on King Song and Gotway , but I think they are more expensive ?

I prefer sacryfiing money rather  body integrity !!

 

 

 

 

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On 11/1/2018 at 9:07 PM, US69 said:

You have to understand that you are driving on an EUC with 3-4 years old technic! 

Seeing it in comparison with up todate wheels, it is very much underpowered with its small battery! Also i would guess, as the e plus is not produced anymore as far as know, that the batterys also have some age now.

That is no 9b bashing when i say that...at the time it was the most reliable EUC, but you can not ride it like todays powerhorses from GW or KS. Chriull has brought it pretty much to the point.

Then there is another thing: Even on newer and more powerfull EUCs...they are ALL still non redundant at all, which means, one cell, one small chip, capacitorr resistor fails...and nothing will safe you from crashing. So there IS ALWAYS a high risk of driving an EUC...

I didn't know it was an etc 3-4 years old technic !! I bought it from speedy feet , and thought it was the more reliable one , as Segway sound to me as the inventor of the technology . I am an ultralight pilot , and realize at my 68 years , that sometimes the truth is hidden , for not attempting against business , not to discourage possible buyers, despite the unforgiven terrible results, people's accidents and even deaths !! , Really sad , but real behavior. Still waiting , after a month from my accident , and Ninebot doesn't answer !! Should have to consult a lawyer ? Maybe !!

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On 11/19/2018 at 3:11 AM, Fernando Llambias said:

Mine was a brand new One . the first time that happened , the same , it was supposed to have plenty of battery charge and autonomy, and it didn't want to get the power on.

Could have been a BMS (battery managmend system) shut-off. This is unfortionately one of the wheels were this was possible. But this BMS shut-off afair could also happen just after/in because of an accident by whichever other reason.

(Should/)Does not happen anymore with newer wheels.

On 11/19/2018 at 3:11 AM, Fernando Llambias said:

Any warning beep !! Today , after my last crash and shoulder fractured , it has only 31 Kilometers of use and I don't want anyone hurting with this device. If it's not reliable , I don't want it anymore. I am also afraid of selling it to someone that can have a new accident !! Thanks for your comments , I can't believe that the manufacture doesn't explain the real  technical problems that this wheels are having. I just received it from Speedy feet the 18 of september 2018 !! Incredible to hear that your Brand New Z10 also failed !!

Maybe Gotway or King Song are performing better ?

Wheels are imo still "low volume" productions, quality control got better but is not perfect and especially new devices can have specific problems. Throughout the manufactures - some perform on average maybe better, but i won't give a guarantee for any of them.

 

On 11/19/2018 at 3:57 AM, Fernando Llambias said:

Hi Emmanuel !!

I am afraid now of riding my Ninebot !!

In the price of the One E+ , which one will be more reliable ? I am Thinking on King Song and Gotway , but I think they are more expensive ?

I prefer sacryfiing money rather  body integrity !!

Inmotion could be interesting, too?

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@Fernando Llambias- small addition to safety/reliability of wheels. Inmotion seems to have solved their V10F problem, same for the KS18L issues. The new GWs seem to be fine, too. 

"Normally" on has a small chance to get a wheel with some problems, like the charging prob with the Z10 from @Emmanuel Schalit. There also could be some issues with the Motherboard assembly. Such issues are discovered quickly (malfunctions) and if one could secure one's new wheel is not faulty (by using it without malfunction) one (normaly) has a stable wheel.

That's maybe not to pleasant - but more or less the "state of art". Somewhere a reseller posted some statistice with returns for faulty Motherboard - they were somewhere between 1-5%. So chances are high everything is fine, but it's not granted...

Imo Overleans (often called mistakenly cut-offs) are still the biggest unsafety (did a new "summary" in https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/12093-unlocking-speed-for-rockwheel-gt16/?do=findComment&comment=202783). Although the new wheels are very strong and have huge batteries strongly decreasing such risks.

 

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On 10/11/2018 at 8:16 PM, Lukasz said:

It is very normal, please be aware that E+ has only 30 cells and 500W motor. Moreover -  BMS in E+ has the tendency to "save" the battery when overpowered and switch power off.

Beware of riding cold wheel (taken out from the trunk after autumn cold night for example )  as if the temperature of the cell is below 10 Celsius its ability to provide current is much decreased.  E+ is only for learning/children or slow stable ride on the flat/slightly uphill.  

I am willing to buy a more reliable euc (With Ninebot One E+ ) After two cuts off , Had a shoulder fracture, and still recovering !! Which do you recommend ? Was thinking on Inmotion V10 or King Song KS16S ? . I want, if possible , to minimize risks !!

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What is really annoying is that when my first cut off occurred ,I immediately got in touch with seller, Ian Sampson (Speedy Feet) , and he told me to recharge the battery ,and to ignore the fail , I did so , and the result : A fracture on my right shoulder, and still recovering since october 26 th 2018 !! And the only answer I got from Ninebot, after sending black Box data, Go ahead and better buy a scooter !! Incredible !! (Both answers Ninebot's and Speedy Feet's !!

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Not sure, it must be related to the batteries/draw power cut off, I wear a lot more gear now, I had another cut off at 46% if I recall correctly, I was not going too fast, was going up hill, rolled out of crash safely. It was a rather steep hill, I thought I had it charged fully or I wouldn't have tried it,  I think at this point I can only rely on half my battery volume which is very unfortunate. I don't quite know what to do about it. My wheel was a RMA'd wheel, resold by owner who replaced when it had to go to the shop, only like 350 km's its still weird to think of problems when others have done like 1000+ easily some vastly more.

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On 11/10/2018 at 7:41 AM, Fox said:

@litewave what firmware did you use for most/all of that 7000 kms?

@Mono I have also had the cutoff. Going about 12km/h on flat at 50 percent battery. Weight 185 lbs. Checked by app after plugging in. While riding was jus all fine then Long beep Dead unit. Wont turn back on till plugged in.

Then it's a BMS cutoff. Either overcurrent - to be reset with the charger plugged in or by dis- and reconnecting the battery pack.

Could maybe als have been a cutoff by single cell undervoltage? This could resrt itself after some minutes once the cell voltage normalizes again.

On 11/10/2018 at 7:41 AM, Fox said:

Similar story with my other uphill crash. 12-15 km/h around half battery and cut off dead till plugged in.

Both times happened in consistent speed cruising no abrupt leaning/stopping. Let me know if I can add anything else. Maybe this firmware is just garbage and I should get old firmware. In my research that seems to be the best option for reliability.

Does not have to do anything with the firmware - thats battery/BMS.

1 hour ago, Fox said:

Not sure, it must be related to the batteries/draw power cut off, I wear a lot more gear now, I had another cut off at 46% if I recall correctly, I was not going too fast, was going up hill, rolled out of crash safely. It was a rather steep hill, I thought I had it charged fully or I wouldn't have tried it,  I think at this point I can only rely on half my battery volume which is very unfortunate. I don't quite know what to do about it. My wheel was a RMA'd wheel, resold by owner who replaced when it had to go to the shop, only like 350 km's its still weird to think of problems when others have done like 1000+ easily some vastly more.

Seems your battery is in not the best shape and its to weak for your weight + gear going up steep hills.

Maybe you can get a new battery or even better a stronger new wheel.

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After I broke my shoulder , I sold the wheel , changed the battery , because I didn't want anyone injured with my wheel, but last week I got in touch with the person who bought it , and told me , that now is having problems with the charger. Too many accidents with thee wheels , they fail very often. Chinese technology must improve and become safer !!

I spoiled my shoulder and is not going to recover . Very annoyed with the stupid way of braking my bones !! Waiting for Apple going to business !!

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I injured my knee 9 months ago. But the reason was, I drunk at night at maximum speed did not notice the ice floe. But I have installed smart bms and LG HG2 cells, and I have never had a problem with this battery (True, I have very little weight, 53kg)

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On 9/24/2019 at 9:20 PM, MRN76 said:

 But I have installed smart bms and LG HG2 cells

I have istalled 30 samsung q30 cells for a total of 60 cells instead of 30, and have your 1.4.3 P firmware with high speed on for the last 1000Km, max speed is 34km/h, beeps at 32, free spin speed is 43 km/h, a bit higher than what you said the e+ can deliver, maybe a different motor batch. 

I weight 76kgr and have had no fails whatsoever till now, 4000km total since august of 2018. I will go for a faster wheel in a couple of months, but nevertheless, the ninebot one was for me  a rock solid machine, thank you for your work on the firmware.

 

 

Edited by enaon

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firmware 1.4.3 has a maximum limit of 33km / h, all firmware up to 1.4.0 (Including 1.4.0) has a maximum limit of 30km / h. This is a model P with the high speed setting turned on.
 

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On 15/10/2019 at 08:26, MRN76 said:

o firmware 1.4.3 tem um limite máximo de 33 km / h, todo o firmware até 1.4.0 (incluindo 1.4.0) tem um limite máximo de 30 km / h. Este é um modelo P com a configuração de alta velocidade ativada.
 

Hello!  Have you had any software updates beyond 1.4.3 for ninebot one c +?  

I would like to take more than 25 km / h.

Thanks!

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I know this topic is old but the problem is on going.  I bought my One E+ refurbished (firmware 1.4.0) and I got a cut out with 644 kilometers on the wheel.  It was not pretty and my gear (Knee pads and helmet) saved me everything except for my right shoulder (broken and required surgery).  I was able to turn it back on and slowly ride it almost 3 kilometers, back home.  The wheel was at about 35% battery and I was going about 20kph down a 2% grade so it is likely that I just pushed it too hard.  The thing is that I didn't get a tilt back and I normally would get one in that situation.  When I started thinking about it I realize that I haven't had a tilt back in quite a while.  Is it possible for the tiltback function to stop working but the rest of the board to continue to function?

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7 hours ago, Jeff Bierlink said:

I know this topic is old but the problem is on going.  I bought my One E+ refurbished (firmware 1.4.0) and I got a cut out with 644 kilometers on the wheel.  It was not pretty and my gear (Knee pads and helmet) saved me everything except for my right shoulder (broken and required surgery).

Hope you recover fine!

7 hours ago, Jeff Bierlink said:

  I was able to turn it back on and slowly ride it almost 3 kilometers, back home.  The wheel was at about 35% battery and I was going about 20kph down a 2% grade so it is likely that I just pushed it too hard.

The lower the battery, the more careful one has to drive. Especially with such "weak" wheels :(

7 hours ago, Jeff Bierlink said:

  The thing is that I didn't get a tilt back and I normally would get one in that situation.  When I started thinking about it I realize that I haven't had a tilt back in quite a while.  Is it possible for the tiltback function to stop working but the rest of the board to continue to function?

You can set tiltback to some lower speed temporarly and try it out.

But I'd see no reason why tiltback could stop working!

Depending on acceleration (burden) it's always possible to get an overlean before tiltback kicks in.

Afair, the original E+ still had a BMS which could cut off during driving. ?From overcurrent and/or cell undervoltage?. So it could be that your battery already shows some wear/is too imbalanced?

What's the reported battery voltage after a full charge and some 15 minute rest?

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On 7/7/2020 at 2:52 AM, Jeff Bierlink said:

The wheel was at about 35% battery and I was going about 20kph down a 2% grade so it is likely that I just pushed it too hard.  

Maybe you did, 20khm on a downslope, even 2%, may generate over 10amps of charging current, maybe it cut off because of that. I have made a custom watch that monitors regenerative current and gives vibrations feedback depending on amperage generated, it is very easy to reach 10 amps, don't go fast on a downslope on the e+.

 

 

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what Chriull says about undervoltage protection is also true, an unbalanced battery pack is likelly to cause a cut off when under 30%. I have 3 battery packs on my e+ and noticed that total mileage was lower than expected latelly. It was due to one cell had failed in one of the packs, and when I pushed the weel on low battery, one of the bms was cutting off to protect that cell, leaving me with two batteries and less mileage. Do the test he says, if the battery voltage, after leaving the wheel on the charger with the green light on for about 3 hours, is not over 62 volts, you may need a new battery pack. 

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, enaon said:

 Do the test he says, if the battery voltage, after leaving the wheel on the charger with the green light on for about 3 hours, is not over 62 volts, you may need a new battery pack. 

After the 3 hour charge til green I usually end up with 61.7 volts, I max out at 61.9 volts (when accidentally left overnight). Wondering if this means anything.

As far as cutouts, I've done MRN's hack and done over 1000 miles, up and down hilly grades/ramps over 20 kph without a cutout. I have though experienced  "soft cutouts" when I believe I went over 30 kph but the motor kicked back in and I was able to ride it out (I'm careful to be gentle on acceleration at the top end and keep my weight as centered as possible). I think adopting a gentle style of acceleration may be the way to go for riders with this wheel - doesn't matter if you're only going 12 kph you might cutout if you're accelerating too aggressively.

I heard someone mention earlier about tiltbacks - I also don't get tiltbacks anymore. Even with a little over 30% battery left and going 24 kph (my own comfort limit at that level) I don't get tiltback. And obviously there was no tiltback before my soft cutouts over 30 kph. This might be concerning, and it had one time made me consider getting a V8 for a similar lightweight wheel. But honestly having gotten so comfortable with the wheel and developed the habit of being conscious of and checking my speed, now I'd rather have no tiltbacks and have more direct control (the V8 might not allow me to cruise at 22-24 kph when battery is ~30% for example).

 

Edited by FullTilt

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6 hours ago, FullTilt said:

After the 3 hour charge til green I usually end up with 61.7 volts, I max out at 61.9 volts (when accidentally left overnight). Wondering if this means anything.

As far as cutouts, I've done MRN's hack and done over 1000 miles, up and down hilly grades/ramps over 20 kph without a cutout. I have though experienced  "soft cutouts" when I believe I went over 30 kph but the motor kicked back in and I was able to ride it out (I'm careful to be gentle on acceleration at the top end and keep my weight as centered as possible). I think adopting a gentle style of acceleration may be the way to go for riders with this wheel - doesn't matter if you're only going 12 kph you might cutout if you're accelerating too aggressively.

I heard someone mention earlier about tiltbacks - I also don't get tiltbacks anymore. Even with a little over 30% battery left and going 24 kph (my own comfort limit at that level) I don't get tiltback. And obviously there was no tiltback before my soft cutouts over 30 kph. This might be concerning, and it had one time made me consider getting a V8 for a similar lightweight wheel. But honestly having gotten so comfortable with the wheel and developed the habit of being conscious of and checking my speed, now I'd rather have no tiltbacks and have more direct control (the V8 might not allow me to cruise at 22-24 kph when battery is ~30% for example).

 

You are on 1.4.3, I believe 1.4.3 gives slightly less voltage readouts than 1.4.0, so 61.9 volts whould look like a good battery pack. You  also have the p firmware with hi-speed on, there is a bug  where the tiltback is lost if an app connects to the bluetooth of the wheel.

Do this test, first after a power on, then after a power on with the phone connected and check if there is different behaivour. This video demonstrates the bug, the tiltback should have kicked in, it does not.

 

 

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