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Jack Frost

MSX customizations-sharewhat you’ve done

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Looks the same but another brand? I'm sure many of them come out of the same factory though. It's basically the same thing but just worded differently.

On = open

Off = closed

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@QLam56, sorry for being persistent but I wouldn't like to make a mistake, so just to make sure: your additional red switch, when you do NOT press it - is OFF, and once you press it - is ON. Then you let it free and it automatically becomes OFF again, right? 

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4 minutes ago, szaroczek said:

@QLam56, sorry for being persistent but I wouldn't like to make a mistake, so just to make sure: your additional red switch, when you do NOT press it - is OFF, and once you press it - is ON. Then you let it free and it automatically becomes OFF again, right? 

You also cannot make a mistake as long as you purchase a momentary button switch that's Normally Open (On).

You should watch the below YouTube video to get a better understanding how the switch work.

 

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31 minutes ago, QLam56 said:

You also cannot make a mistake as long as you purchase a momentary button switch

This video is a very instructive one, thank you. ;-)

 

31 minutes ago, QLam56 said:

switch that's Normally Open (On)

"Open" is not (On), isn't it...? I'd guess "Open" is (OFF).

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Posted (edited)

Guys, does any of you know what are exact sizes - diagonals - of all of the three wholes in the MSX control panel, please? I'd be really grateful. I'm accidentally far away of my wheel right now and I'm to buy switches of which some I'm gonna install in the mentioned wholes and I need to know how big switches I should buy.

MSX panel.PNG

Edited by szaroczek

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Posted (edited)

Out of curiosity, Hansolo who first did the 2400Wh MSX mod or other who got the info about wiring inside a 84v 1600Wh Gotway perhaps?

Now placed the order myself for the 2400Wh mod for my own MSX and love the whole idea about not just more Wh but more paralleling up to 9P in total, never even open my MSX before and very little spare time on my hands so though about taking the opportunity to also re-wire the whole wheel more or less. In case of typical Gotway quality job I'm thinking about swapping out some connectors and step up the quality, if nothing else for my peace of mind while having it apart already cause who know if I get the opportunity again, too lazy or even want to?

Thinking for example XT60 with end caps or heat shrink them better and no bare insulation free wire exposed as long as the eye can see, while at it maybe even take the gauge of wiring down one notch unless there is any reason to avoid it, re wire the charge path in case I want more charging power down the road, etc..

But I wonder if anyone here sit on the info now and feel like sharing in regards to gauge sizing of all existing MSX wiring, even down to the tiny balancing leads, any other info someone want to share that I should think about or can improve? Perhaps the size of the Nickel strips use spot welding the battery pack, I got a couple meter strips (supposedly "pure" Nickel but I get that means real close and not exactly 100% cause cannot be for several reasons) that's 0.2x10, should it be 0.3x? or similar?

I can appreciate all mods no matter the scope + points just for creativity and the will to dig into your new, semi new or even old wheels should be applauded, but for me personally  I swill stick to the inside, then again functionality always been good looking to me so? Fast and durable, matte black and raw and I don't have to care should I lay it on it's side. :)

Edited by Electroman

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Posted (edited)
On 3/23/2019 at 6:30 PM, szaroczek said:

"Open" is not (On), isn't it...? I'd guess "Open" is (OFF).

Correct.   

The switch acts as a signal to the computer to perform an action.

Edited by RockyTop

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4 hours ago, RockyTop said:

Correct.   

The switch acts as a signal to the computer to perform an action.

@RockyTop, I think you've missed a point; we were talking here about a momentary switch which was to turn the engine off once you lift the wheel... 

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6 hours ago, szaroczek said:

@RockyTop, I think you've missed a point; we were talking here about a momentary switch which was to turn the engine off once you lift the wheel... 

No, I understand.

 the switch does not turn the motor off. It tells the computer to not use the motor.

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7 hours ago, Hansolo said:

A little switch well placed :D

I understand he installed it not symmetrically in the middle but just on one side of the handle, right?

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Posted (edited)

No, in the middle beetween the two shells.

A precision cut by @Tbx Nicolas

Edited by Hansolo

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2 minutes ago, Hansolo said:

No, in the middle beetween the two shells.

But then how did he screw the switch to the handle wall since there is a thin nut which has to be screwed on the switch thread from inside the wheel and the wheel must have bee closed at the moment when he was installing the switch as long as the switch is installed in the middle of the handle...? :blink1:

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Just separate the half shells and make 2 half holes. and often check whether it's good or not.

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2 minutes ago, Hansolo said:

Just separate the half shells and make 2 half holes. and often check whether it's good or not.

I got this; what I don't get is once the whole is OK he's got to assembly the two halves together to put the switch in the whole and at the very last he's got to screw the nut on the switch which (nut) comes inside the handle - how does he do it???

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Put the switch on one of the shells, tighten the nut and lock it with glue and assemble the other shell

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22 minutes ago, Hansolo said:

Put the switch on one of the shells, tighten the nut and lock it with glue and assemble the other shell

Makes sens... :efef2e0fff:

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Posted (edited)

As I installed the knobby tire today, I decided also to move the beeper to underneath the charging port, facing upwards. Unfortunately while opening up the beeper for attaching longer wires, I ripped a wire from the actual piezo element. I was able to solder it back in next to the original spot, but some of the surface layer got ripped away, and I think it lowered the volume of the beeper. As a result the volume of the beeper sounds the same if not slightly lower than before the mod. Oh well. Time for a new beeper I guess

But now I too have a knobbly tire! My thoughts after the first ride:

 

Edited by mrelwood

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I just installed 3 LED's in front of the charging port so that I have a visual cue when it beeps, because sometimes I cant hear it. 

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2 hours ago, irmatt said:

I just installed 3 LED's in front of the charging port so that I have a visual cue when it beeps, because sometimes I cant hear it. 

Now, that's a very clever thing to do! :thumbup:

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On 3/22/2019 at 11:31 PM, QLam56 said:

Sure,

1st picture posted by @houseofjob shows where the motor stop is located on the motherboard.

Screenshot_20190317_225915_com.facebook.katana.thumb.jpg.3b68aa3312b3114aa981c936a3ef4951.jpg

 

I don't know for certain - but assuming this is the same components (or plug ports should I say) as on the Tesla then in theory this is easily replicated to that model too right?

I suspect this may be the case given the new Tesla 2 (which for intents and purposes is a minor modernisation rather than a new wheel) has the same cut off on it.

Does anyone know if the boards are the same or have the same port for power cut off?

If so then I will probably mod my Tesla as I have had too many close calls with picking it up absent mindedly.

And also am I right in saying I literally just buy the wire with that port fitting, a button of my choice and then just run it through to the handle?

 

 

 

 

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Nikola pedals😊

IMG-20190501-101200.jpg
IMG-20190501-100536.jpg
IMG-20190501-092859.jpg
IMG-20190501-100526.jpg
IMG-20190501-100639.jpg

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4 minutes ago, stephen said:

Nikola pedals😊

IMG-20190501-101200.jpg
IMG-20190501-100536.jpg
IMG-20190501-092859.jpg
IMG-20190501-100526.jpg
IMG-20190501-100639.jpg

Lovely!

Let me know if you ready to sell the beast :)

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25 minutes ago, PogArt Artur said:

Lovely!

Let me know if you ready to sell the beast :)

I don't think I'm ever sell my MSX😊😊

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