Jump to content
Jack Frost

MSX customizations-sharewhat you’ve done

Recommended Posts

7 hours ago, Jpd said:

The size is 2.50 x14  with the knobs it’s almost exactly the same size as the original msx tire.

Great to know, thanks!

Although we must be really careful with the designation, it is 2.50-14. If one buys a 2.50x14, one will likely get a 14” outer diameter 14x2.50, for a 14” unicycle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Finally shipped a month after purchase (no longer available), this is what I have on the way:

6269D8AA-A09C-4A33-AF7E-BA7DE8852C03.thumb.jpeg.da211ffce08cffe790f3197851fcac50.jpeg

2.50-14 motorcycle tire should fit the MSX fine, and the pattern seems like an ok compromise between street and off-road. I will of course write a review once I get it rolling.

Can't wait to see it on . Have you got a link to see if it comes back in stock thx

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, stephen said:

Can't wait to see it on . Have you got a link to see if it comes back in stock thx

The Aliexpress page has been removed. This was the seller:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/7jiFiz6

As it is a ChaoYang tire, I’m sure it can be found and bought somewhere else as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/24/2019 at 4:09 PM, Jpd said:

I wanted to make my msx a dedicated off road wheel, so I asked Jason for a more aggressive tire. This is what he sent me. It looks badass imo!  Looking forward to trying it out if spring ever decides to show up. 

06CAC909-DAFF-4D67-900E-43330A7C7DF4.jpeg

Why wait for spring?  That thing is ready for ANY season! ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/27/2019 at 3:00 PM, mrelwood said:

Although we must be really careful with the designation, it is 2.50-14. If one buys a 2.50x14, one will likely get a 14” outer diameter 14x2.50, for a 14” unicycle.

So, after 10 weeks from ordering a 2.5-14 ”Motorcycle” tire, what do I receive? A 14x2.5 tire! (Bicycle standard, so the diameter is 4” too small).

I have bought a lot of tires and other stuff from Ali, but I still have no clue how to make sure I’d receive what I bought. It’s all a disastrous mess.

Funny thing though, in a Murphy fashion: In late 2017 I hunted high and low for a 16x2.5 Chaoyang H-5167 as the treading seemed perfect, and the 14” version got stellar reviews here. No luck, always received something else, even when I said I would only buy the H-5167.

So, which 14x2.5 tire did I receive yesterday? The darn H-5167! And yes, the treading truly seems perfect. But there is just no way of getting it in any of my wheels’ sizes.

6 months since I started looking for a rougher tire for the MSX, and I’ve gotten nowhere. People have (arguably) gone to the moon, sent machines to Mars, and split atoms. Yet it seems impossible for me to buy a 2.5-14 tire, although several models are made, and large systems are in place designed to do exactly that.

I think mankind is doomed.

:facepalm:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This isn't my wheel, but I was fortunate enough to be involved in building it.  It was a few weeks worth of work.

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/20/2018 at 11:53 PM, Hansolo said:

Some pictures...

For the tire, I do not like the original tyre behavior in the grooves and deverted so I installed the same tyre as on my MS3 (2000 Wh) CST 18x 2.5 anti-Puncture.

20180820_194501.jpg

20180821_174240.jpg

20180821_183134.jpg

20180920_234314.jpg

Marvelous, well done, very interesting.

Like so many others of course I am interested myself too in this mod, I cannot help but to ask cause even if possible to do the research and and make this ourselves it would be absolutely amazing to have a full on guide. A detailed step by step description including links to where you bought everything, something that simply cannot be misunderstood even for those who never done anything like this before so that more or less anyone here can follow this step by step with the pictures and everything and come out on top.

Understand that is a bit of work to put together and if you work anything like me you simply not not have the time, fully understand that, can dream though... :lol: Still have to ask cause would be incredibly helpful to many I suspect and this one deserve it's own space imho.

Regarding NSX cells in general, since naming them Sanyo I assume it's the genuine made in Japan GA cells, not the one often referred to as Panasonic NCR18650GA, aka "Made in China"? Not that China made GA is a bad cell at all from what I read, only some marginal difference in the tests I have seam earlier like for ex THIS one but perhaps I sit on old information? This specific one for ex was not written yesterday but I know there used to be 2 different GA cells and if nice to use the exact same cell.

Just waited and waited now since I bought my MSX, hoping Gotway would push the boundaries even further, hoping for more powerful batteries, motors and control systems, I fully understand there are those who do not give a c--- about 10km/h extra speed, faster acceleration and more grunt in general, but hey we are all different and I do care, very much in fact! To me all the the rainbows colors and a pretty fender mean very little, full on matte black and raw, unpolished is even kind of pretty to me. Can appreciate it it sure, but any potential modification for me must give me power and/or range and I do not feel the MSX is extreme at all, too slow and soft at this point. Suspect many would be utterly chocked how fast you can really drain a healthy fully charged 1600Wh pack, or at very least take it down to where no longer as enjoyable for me and the endurance difference between the way I ride my wheel and just cruising @ 25-30km/h is absolutely massive!

Is it dangerous to ride like I do, heck yes it can be and not searching out danger on purpose for the sake of it, that's like asking Alex Honnhold if he feel like falling off the wall? But also will not allow myself to think about falling every minute while riding the wheel, I have fallen before but strangely not since turned on the aggro dial another few steps, think focus is a lot  higher getting closer to the edge, awareness is there on a different level. Certainly no guarantee of course, but life is not safe and trying to become 100% safe I would be imprisoning myself in the process and avoid what I love to do, life is a balance act, quite literally. All those years at the dirt tracks led to many accidents, some faster and more violent than all the EUC accidents I have ever seen but the full protection suit at least is on and never risk other people who did not ask to be put there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/20/2019 at 1:56 AM, QLam56 said:

Replaced the USB port with an lift/motor stop switch

@QLam56, could you explain what's this all about? Maybe some link to the original source, please...? ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
49 minutes ago, szaroczek said:

@QLam56, could you explain what's this all about? Maybe some link to the original source, please...? ;)

Sure,

1st picture posted by @houseofjob shows where the motor stop is located on the motherboard.

2nd picture is the switch I purchased from microcenter.

3rd and 4th pictures shows the enclosure I created for the switch in the same dimensions as the USB port and the final wiring.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Screenshot_20190317_225915_com.facebook.katana.thumb.jpg.3b68aa3312b3114aa981c936a3ef4951.jpg

Screenshot_20190322_192430_com.android.chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20190322_192700_com.android.gallery3d.jpg

Screenshot_20190322_192719_com.android.gallery3d.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

OK, thank you for the tutorial, I think it's clear. However, what's the exact function of that switch? Is it like it just turns the very engine itself off by which preventing it from spinning the wheel when it looses its touch of the ground, without turning the whole system off...?

Edited by szaroczek

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Correct, it stop the motor from spinning when you lift it off so you don't have to turn it off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it a regular bi-stable (two position) switch, or is it a mono-stable (you need to keep it pressed to have it in and "off" position and then it automatically returns to "on" position) one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

It's a momentary switch, you press and hold to activate and release to deactivate 

Edited by QLam56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, QLam56 said:

It's a momentary switch, you press and hold to activate and release to deactivate 

Now, that makes true sens! B) I'd only have two reservations:

1. If it was me, I'd probably try to swap the position of this switch with the original on-off switch to make it more comfortable to press it while lifting the wheel.

2. This switch sticks out off the wheel's shell quite a bit and I wonder how it would work out on occasional  tumbles. :efef2e0fff: There are, for example, this kind of momentary switches as in the link and they stick out much less and they are metal - I'd believe I'd go for something like this. This one, however, works the other way around - it is normally "off", but you can either use some relay to change it, or possibly find the one working the right way instantly...

https://allegro.pl/oferta/przelacznik-hermetyczny-wodoodporny-pbs-28b-3-5768001078?bi_s=ads&bi_m=listing%3Adesktop%3Aquery&bi_c=MmVmMWJmNDAtNzM1YS00ZTIwLTgxZjMtNGE4Y2JmNDhmMTY5AA&bi_t=ape&referrer=proxy&emission_unit_id=c8fd3268-24e8-4d32-ac5b-0fa6cf437249

This one would probably be a good compromise between how much it stick out and how comfortable it is on use. And it's still made of metal.

https://allegro.pl/oferta/przelacznik-hermetyczny-off-on-250v-2a-wystajacy-7152478764

And, of course, both of these are water-proof.

Edited by szaroczek

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
33 minutes ago, QLam56 said:
1 hour ago, szaroczek said:

Now, that makes true sens! B) I'd only have two reservations:

1. If it was me, I'd probably try to swap the position of this switch with the original on-off switch to make it more comfortable to press it while lifting the wheel.

2. This switch sticks out off the wheel's shell quite a bit and I wonder how it would work out on occasional  tumbles. :efef2e0fff: There are, for example, this kind of momentary switches as in the link and they stick out much less and they are metal - I'd believe I'd go for something like this. This one, however, works the other way around - it is normally "off", but you can either use some relay to change it, or possibly find the one working the right way instantly...

https://allegro.pl/oferta/przelacznik-hermetyczny-wodoodporny-pbs-28b-3-5768001078?bi_s=ads&bi_m=listing%3Adesktop%3Aquery&bi_c=MmVmMWJmNDAtNzM1YS00ZTIwLTgxZjMtNGE4Y2JmNDhmMTY5AA&bi_t=ape&referrer=proxy&emission_unit_id=c8fd3268-24e8-4d32-ac5b-0fa6cf437249

This one would probably be a good compromise between how much it stick out and how comfortable it is on use. And it's still made of metal.

https://allegro.pl/oferta/przelacznik-hermetyczny-off-on-250v-2a-wystajacy-7152478764

And, of course, both of these are water-proof.

1. I thought about putting it there but I have no problem with where is it now since I have big hands. Plus it's also easier to remove the USB plug versus the power button. You just need to pry the USB up to remove it. This is basically a plug and play replacement. Very easy to do without taking the whole housing apart, you just need to remove the side panel. The hardest part to this mod was removing the silicone on the motherboard.

2. It actually doesn't stick out as much as you may think. It's basically the same height as the charger cover once it's compressed. The switch would also be the least of my worry if I take a tumble that bad for it to flip over....🤣

Honestly, I just purchased the cheapest switch I could find to test this out first. I will upgrade it to something like one of your link in the future. I'll see how this one hold up for now.

Screenshot_20190323_084711_com.android.gallery3d.jpg

Screenshot_20190323_083450_com.android.gallery3d.jpg

 

Edited by QLam56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great idea the off switch too, love the simplicity of the idea and not going full King Song to solve the problem leaving the door open to problematic moments later down the road, ok honestly will have still to see I suppose but it's also not been around for several years so that potential day, that potential sorrow I suppose. Still, I could reach that position with my hands no problem, but yeah I prefer to keep that USB and flip it to under the handle, personal preference nice to have either way.

Anyone know of a switch that is low, short travel distance when engaged and perfect fit under the handle and towards the front so can choose not to engage it to and still carry the wheel comfortably in my hand, ohh and black? :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Electroman said:

Great idea the off switch too, love the simplicity of the idea and not going full King Song to solve the problem leaving the door open to problematic moments later down the road, ok honestly will have still to see I suppose but it's also not been around for several years so that potential day, that potential sorrow I suppose. Still, I could reach that position with my hands no problem, but yeah I prefer to keep that USB and flip it to under the handle, personal preference nice to have either way.

Anyone know of a switch that is low, short travel distance when engaged and perfect fit under the handle and towards the front so can choose not to engage it to and still carry the wheel comfortably in my hand, ohh and black? :D

The original Russian guy put the button underneath the handle. I also considered it but decided against it since it's more work. You would need to take the whole housing apart to drill the hole for the switch. I also didn't want to mess with the handle structure due to the hole and force needed to keep the button compressed. The USB port (useless to me) was the best solution since you don't need to drill any hole so it's completely reversible. 

Edited by QLam56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, QLam56 said:

The original Russian guy put the button underneath the handle. I also considered it but decided against it since it's more work. You would need to take the whole housing apart to drill the hole for the switch. The USB port (useless to me) was the best solution since you don't need to drill any hole so it's completely reversible. 

Yeah I understand, good point.

For me with access to the tools and full on machine shop I suppose it's a bit easier in that regard, I wonder if we have got any members here working professionally with plastics, carbon fiber or even some exotics? I am thinking of course about someone with ability to stamp out shells with all the design features we can dream up from scratch and likely cheaper than GW originals. :lol:

Jokes aside, making the die for injection molding is not cheap or done over a coffee brake and I think out little group thinking in terms of modding at all is just way to small, so carving out from GW stock plastics it is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

There is one thing regarding the electrical connection of this "motor-off" switch, however, that confuses me a bit. Namely, this two-pin socket in the main-board on your picture with is responsible for switching off the engine

283489409_MSXmotherboard.thumb.PNG.f254e9375fbdac18e7dbc0124ec0b892.PNG

is originally empty, there is nothing there, no plug of any kind is connected to it whatsoever.

5 hours ago, QLam56 said:

The hardest part to this mod was removing the silicone on the motherboard.

- in my case actually there is not even any silicon in it...!

606468627_MSXmotherboard03.PNG.63875b13da4f8f57538b852f90f131d9.PNG

Therefore it looks as originally this socket is always... OPEN! Still the engine is always ON (of course once you've initially turned the whole wheel on with the power button)... Your red switch, on the other hand, which you installed to this empty socket i normally ON, which means the two pins in the discussed socket are always short-circuited...!!! Then, once you push your red switch they get separated, so they go back to the original state, but the engine is suddenly... OFF! What's going on here? What am I actually missing? :unsure:

 

Edited by szaroczek

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

 

1 hour ago, szaroczek said:

 

606468627_MSXmotherboard03.PNG.63875b13da4f8f57538b852f90f131d9.PNG

Therefore it looks as originally this socket is always... OPEN! Still the engine is always ON (of course once you've initially turned the whole wheel on with the power button)... Your red switch, on the other hand, which you installed to this empty socket i normally ON, which means the two pins in the discussed socket are always short-circuited...!!! Then, once you push your red switch they get separated, so they go back to the original state, but the engine is suddenly... OFF! What's going on here? What am I actually missing? :unsure:

 

Mine also didn't have the silicone on the motor stop plug. I was mainly referring to the USB plug one that's full of silicone....

Sorry but I don't understand your problem. Are you saying your motor doesn't turn back on after you release the button? What kind of switch did you buy or used?

Mine is working like how it's supposed to. You press and hold the button to disengage the motor and release it to reengage.

Edited by QLam56

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I haven't done anything yet, I'm just trying to understand the mechanics here, which, to my simple mind seem to be out of sense. So, again:

Before your modification this white socket in the main-board was empty, which means its both pins did NOT touch to each other - they were open if you like. Yet, in this factory mode the engine is (always) ON (when, of course, the whole wheel is ON).

Now, your additional red switch which you've installed in its neutral position (not pressed) is "ON", which means the main-board socket's pins touch each other - the circuit is closed - the electric state has changed and now it is exactly OPPOSITE to the former original state of matter. In this position, however, the engine is still ON (when the wheel is on) when logically now it should be OFF.

Then, when you press your red switch it goes into "OFF" position, by which you create exactly the same state as it had been before you installed the red switch, and for some mysterious reason the engine is suddenly "OFF", when, according to simple logic, the engine should be "ON", because this is the same electric state the wheel enjoyed before you made you red switch modification... 

Doesn't this explanation really make any sens...? :mellow:

Edited by szaroczek

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you are looking at the red switch the wrong way round?!

I assume it is a 'normally open' type, and closes when pressed.

Unless I am missing something fundamental (very possible).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Planemo is correct, the switch is normally open (like the motherboard) and closes when pressed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...