Planemo Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 Make it a winter job! Cheers for the link, I guess I select the 18 x 3.0 option. I might ask them for a pic, the only picture on the advert is of a different tread pattern.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 5 minutes ago, Planemo said: Make it a winter job! Cheers for the link, I guess I select the 18 x 3.0 option. I might ask them for a pic, the only picture on the advert is of a different tread pattern.. Just ask him to make sure it's a ChaoYang H-666 18x3.0 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 3 hours ago, stephen said: Just ask him to make sure it's a ChaoYang H-666 18x3.0 Yes! That’s the seller I bought my H-666 from, exactly by asking if he has the pattern in the correct size. I received exactly what I ordered. The best tire overall for MSX, fastest cornering and the most fun to carve and crawl I’ve had on any EUC! It did scrape a bit too much though, so I sanded down the edge protrusions. Works wonders. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 5 hours ago, mrelwood said: It did scrape a bit too much though, so I sanded down the edge protrusions. Works wonders. When I get around to it I may just file the case a little where the contact is. I want to keep it looking as fat as possible Plus I hate the gap you can see between the case and the wheel when looking directly front/back and can see the spindly axle. The little things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 7 minutes ago, Planemo said: When I get around to it I may just file the case a little where the contact is. I got pretty deep scrapes inside the wheel well before I shaved the tire. The shell edge wasn’t the problem, in my case at least. When you get on the first ride with the tire, check if it drags when you stand on the wheel one legged with either leg. If it drags noticeably, it will very likely also drag during cornering and mounting, and will eventually eat through the shell from inside out. And don’t worry, this fattie will look fat enough even after a light shave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 46 minutes ago, mrelwood said: I got pretty deep scrapes inside the wheel well before I shaved the tire. The shell edge wasn’t the problem, in my case at least. Ah, cheers for that. I didn't realise the problem was internal as well, I thought it was just the shell front and back edges. Surprised it's that tight internally tbh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 1 hour ago, Planemo said: Ah, cheers for that. I didn't realise the problem was internal as well, I thought it was just the shell front and back edges. Surprised it's that tight internally tbh! I think the internal width is about the same than the lower section of the wheel well opening, but the top of the opening curves in in the shape of the tire. My knobby tire is wider at the top, but sanding the shell higher at the opening was enough for that. It’s not all about a fixed width either, since the plastic shell bends quite a bit when leaned into on one leg. That’s when the top of the tire rubs in the shell the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 20 minutes ago, mrelwood said: It’s not all about a fixed width either, since the plastic shell bends quite a bit when leaned into on one leg. Yes I think the GW build quality will come as a bit of a culture shock to me after the Z... I have read of 'centralising' the case as well...cant see how that works (although I haven't had a good look) but I will try and read any info I can on that too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 i've put some fancy led under the pedals and a motor-stop bottom insted the usb port, need to post some pictures asap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick McCutcheon Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 19 hours ago, Emanuele Tomasello said: i've put some fancy led under the pedals and a motor-stop bottom insted the usb port, need to post some pictures asap. How did you implement the motor stop? Does the MSX just have a stop button header that’s unused? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 8 minutes ago, Nick McCutcheon said: How did you implement the motor stop? Does the MSX just have a stop button header that’s unused? Page 4 of this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick McCutcheon Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 4 minutes ago, Planemo said: Page 4 of this thread. Just saw it right after I posted this comment, haha. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 (edited) On 11/12/2019 at 9:39 AM, Nick McCutcheon said: Just saw it right after I posted this comment, haha. Thanks! yes , all info are there these are some pic from my mod: http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/5746098521 here you can see leds in the night: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWqs6NOq7Ck Edited November 13, 2019 by Emanuele Tomasello Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 On 3/22/2019 at 11:31 PM, QLam56 said: Anyone know what the 2 pin plug is called please so I can order one up. Is it the same as a two cell lipo balance plug? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCGUY Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 1 hour ago, Planemo said: Anyone know what the 2 pin plug is called please so I can order one up. Is it the same as a two cell lipo balance plug? Cheers XH-2A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 Ok thanks I think thats JST XH which is indeed the same as found on lipo balance leads. I have some old 2 cell batteries sitting around I will rob a connector from one. Just need to decide on what switch to use and where to put it. Ditching the usb port is a neat idea and I will likely never need the usb but you can be sure that if I get rid of it, i will end up needing some charge for my phone... Button under the handle is also neat but needs the shell to be split. Hmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 15 hours ago, Planemo said: Ok thanks I think thats JST XH which is indeed the same as found on lipo balance leads. I have some old 2 cell batteries sitting around I will rob a connector from one. Just need to decide on what switch to use and where to put it. Ditching the usb port is a neat idea and I will likely never need the usb but you can be sure that if I get rid of it, i will end up needing some charge for my phone... Button under the handle is also neat but needs the shell to be split. Hmm. it's the same family of balance connector --> JST-XH <-- but it's 2 pin ! 2 cell balance connector has 3 pin the position is your choise, like the switch to use, i like the handle to be free/clear when i need to grab it so i use the usb port, also i use an on/off switch, not a momentary one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 3 minutes ago, Emanuele Tomasello said: it's the same family of balance connector --> JST-XH <-- but it's 2 pin ! 2 cell balance connector has 3 pin the position is your choise, like the switch to use, i like the handle to be free/clear when i need to grab it so i use the usb port, also i use an on/off switch, not a momentary one Ah of course yes! Right, I will have to order one up then. Thanks. I am wondering if I can find a socket which has a usb port AND a small on/off switch...that would keep both the options available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lukasz Posted December 4, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 4, 2019 For bit long list of mods - see 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 I’ve had to work with the MSX headlight quite a bit more. Quick recap: - Original: Light spreads way too narrow. Didn’t see a deer right next to the cycleway. (No collision.) - LED element from a random flashlight implemented to the original frame: Worked great for a year, but finally gave up. - XPG-3 LED element from a new bicycle light & original frame: Worked great for a day, then gave up. My suspicion is overheat due to lack of flashlight frame as a cooling element. - Complete front section from a T6 LED flashlight: Looks rad, even has a bit of focal adjustment! Just installed, we’ll see how it holds up. Con: Too exposed, will easily take a hit in a tumble. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shad0z Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 3 hours ago, mrelwood said: I’ve had to work with the MSX headlight quite a bit more. Quick recap: - Original: Light spreads way too narrow. Didn’t see a deer right next to the cycleway. (No collision.) - LED element from a random flashlight implemented to the original frame: Worked great for a year, but finally gave up. - XPG-3 LED element from a new bicycle light & original frame: Worked great for a day, then gave up. My suspicion is overheat due to lack of flashlight frame as a cooling element. - Complete front section from a T6 LED flashlight: Looks rad, even has a bit of focal adjustment! Just installed, we’ll see how it holds up. Con: Too exposed, will easily take a hit in a tumble. You need to use a more dense foam, and a thicker layer. That type of foam doesn't do anything. It just gets ripped off, it's too soft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 7 hours ago, Shad0z said: You need to use a more dense foam, and a thicker layer. That type of foam doesn't do anything. It just gets ripped off, it's too soft True, it is probably only good for reducing scratches. I just left it on after wrapping the wheel for tough slow skill riding on cliffs when the wheel was new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Planemo Posted December 8, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) Only some minor mods but thought I would post a pic Painted the wheel, slimed the tube, fitted Nikola pedals (filed a bit to about 11 deg - didnt need to take much off at all) put a bit of 3M carbon wrap on the centres to protect a bit (and I think it looks cool!), fitted the GW mudflap (with black screws - the supplied silver ones look a bit poo) and just for laughs added Predator stickers. Will do the lift cut-off next, while I had the side covers off I jerry rigged a switch to check (my board has a different layout to previous pics I have seen) and it worked fine. Edit: Pic removed - having a cull of my uploads to retrieve space. Edited March 4, 2022 by Planemo 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockyTop Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 27 minutes ago, Planemo said: Only some minor mods but thought I would post a pic Painted the wheel, slimed the tube, fitted Nikola pedals (filed a bit to about 11 deg - didnt need to take much off at all) put a bit of 3M carbon wrap on the centres to protect a bit (and I think it looks cool!), fitted the GW mudflap (with black screws - the supplied silver ones look a bit poo) and just for laughs added Predator stickers. Will do the lift cut-off next, while I had the side covers off I jerry rigged a switch to check (my board has a different layout to previous pics I have seen) and it worked fine. Looks Nice! You have an eye for style. .................... I would have it scratched up in days. For that reason I try for the MAD MAX look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 (edited) Did my power pad mod yesterday. Bought a pair of 3D printed bases from: https://hulaj.market/en/gotway-msx/114-gotway-msx-speedypads-for-easy-braking-and-acceleration.html?SubmitCurrency=1&id_currency=2 but they are designed to re-use the original Gotway pads. So they dont fit in the recesses like EUC Guy ones, and I didnt like the bulky GW pads when fitted to the new bases. So I stencilled the case recesses and transferred them to the bases, before going at them with a dremel, file and sandpaper. It was during this process that I quickly found out that they were not solid (doh!) and hit the hollow infill. Onwards and upwards lol, once the correct size was obtained I filled using P38 Isopon then wet and dryed them back down before spraying with satin black. Covered with 7mm neoprene, they fit and look pretty good imo. I think I still prefer the EUC guy ones, but these were £18 delivered and I had all the stuff needed to modify already Edit: Pics removed - having a cull of my uploads to retrieve space. Edited March 4, 2022 by Planemo 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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