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Wense

Strange "Clonck" sound from my V8

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Hi.

 

I've recently bourght my V8 and its only been running few Km.. It seems like there is a freeplay/ clonck sound when Im starting or breaking.. Its like theres to much freeplay between forward-backwards ??

Anyone knows why this is?? And can I tighten somthing?? Its kind of strange, since it dident do so right when I got it.. 

 

Hope someone can help...

 

Regards,

Lars , Denmark

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You may consider to make a vid to get a better idea what sound you are talking about. Mine makes this creaking sound for some time now:

I don't think it is supposed to do this and it should be under warranty in your case. IIRC someone got this fixed by their local dealer and I don't think it was a simple issue of tightening a screw, unfortunately.

Edited by Mono

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I had to tight the bolts and screws inside of my v5f after the first 3000km because the same sound from change direction. You can earn it at the end of the video

 

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Sounds more like what @Demargon posted than the creaking noise I have. I guess you need to decide whether you want to go the warranty route or open it up yourself. I wouldn't exactly know which screws or bolts are the culprit.

EDIT: See also https://www.espritroue.fr/topic/4545-v8-bruit-avant-arrière/ which seems to describe the same problem (check e.g. the vid in the first post). What I read seems not to suggest that tightening screws will fix it (it needs "une soudure au niveau de l'axe" = "a weld at the axis"), but what do I know.

Edited by Mono

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Yeah, guess I need to figure out what can be the cause.. I allready tried to dismantle it down to the wheel, but the wheel/motor I dident have the guts to take apart.. Also I need to know what to look for... :-/  But then again.. If I take the waranty road I might be without the EUC for loooong time.. 

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Just returned a v10f that had that sound out of the box, was like a  1/8-1/4"play happened when adjusting from going  forward/break/forward 

this is what mine sounded like this: 

 

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On 8/20/2018 at 2:11 PM, Wense said:

Hi.

 

I've recently bourght my V8 and its only been running few Km.. It seems like there is a freeplay/ clonck sound when Im starting or breaking.. Its like theres to much freeplay between forward-backwards ??

Anyone knows why this is?? And can I tighten somthing?? Its kind of strange, since it dident do so right when I got it.. 

 

Hope someone can help...

 

Regards,

Lars , Denmark

Have you checked out the facebook group “EUC danmark”?  We are seeing way too many riders around who havent seen the group :P  we do a lot of group rides, especially in the summer

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Sounds like a loose axle nut.. :/ 

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On 8/20/2018 at 2:11 PM, Wense said:

I've recently bourght my V8 and its only been running few Km.. It seems like there is a freeplay/ clonck sound when Im starting or breaking.. Its like theres to much freeplay between forward-backwards ??

Anyone knows why this is?? And can I tighten somthing?? Its kind of strange, since it dident do so right when I got it.. 

I had the same problem with my V8. Bought it from Speedy Feet and got a new motor/wheel that solved the problem.

That V10 how ever doesn't sound like the same problem. Sounds like you need to check of loose screws on that one.

This is what my wheel sounded like:

 

Edited by Jens Ronnedal

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2 hours ago, suicidebike said:

After a bit more thought, I suspect that if this fault isn't corrected with better welding, the oscillation of the key in the keyway will eventually wear the key and keyway enough to allow the axle to rotate freely.

I would have thought the key isn't even necessary as long as the welding isn't broken. 

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Yeah - if the weld is decent, you don't need the keyed shaft. Under the weld there's a circlip. I suspect the original design involved the key and the circlip, but there's enough play in that design that I suspect early testing showed it didn't work well and so they added a spot weld. With the circlip still in place, it really looks like an afterthought.

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Finally, the results: After the repair steps above, I rode this wheel for ~10k at full speed, something I hadn't done on it for a few months because I was worried about the worsening clunk problem. It was solid and performed very well. I dropped off a few kerbs, and it felt firm and controlled. Totally fixed the clunk problem, and I'm very happy with it. Full confidence again, and I'm very happy! Now, I have to repeat all this for my other wheel. :(

To anyone experiencing this clunk problem: I wouldn't ride that wheel without extra caution. Go slower, don't drop off kerbs, be more prepared for a crash than you are normally. Be aware that this failure is a progressive thing - it's going to deteriorate and at some unpredictable point, your axle is not going to be connected to the rotor anymore and you're going to faceplant.

Hopefully all this will be useful to people here, and I hope it provides the necessary evidence for you to get warranty service from your retailer, and hopefully InMotion will take notice and fix this problem at the source for their future wheels! I saw a video above from someone with a V10 exhibiting the same problem, proving that they haven't fixed this for the V10 model.

To address the 'just tighten the screws/nuts' comment that I've seen in this thread and somewhere else: Tightening the axle nut is probably not going to do it. For a loose axle nut to explain this problem, it would have to be *very* loose to the point where the axle mount jaws can release the axle enough to allow it to rotate a little bit between forward/back motions. It's worth tightening those axle nuts (I used a 13/16ths ring spanner, a 21mm wasn't an exact match for it) and demonstrating the problem again before you disassemble your motor, but I wouldn't hold out much hope for that.

Edited by suicidebike

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9 hours ago, suicidebike said:

To anyone experiencing this clunk problem: I wouldn't ride that wheel without extra caution. Go slower, don't drop off kerbs, be more prepared for a crash than you are normally. Be aware that this failure is a progressive thing - it's going to deteriorate and at some unpredictable point, your axle is not going to be connected to the rotor anymore and you're going to faceplant.

From my understanding of the geometry I have a hard time to see how the keyed shaft could ever get 360º loose just by further wearing out. I can understand that the play will gradually increase, but it should take a very long time from the few degrees of the clonck to grow to 360º free wheeling. Meanwhile, long before this may happen the wheel should become pretty unrideable due to the gradually increasing play. Am I missing some important aspect of it?

 

Edited by Mono

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11 hours ago, Mono said:

From my understanding of the geometry I have a hard time to see how the keyed shaft could ever get 360º loose just by further wearing out. I can understand that the play will gradually increase, but it should take a very long time from the few degrees of the clonck to grow to 360º free wheeling. Meanwhile, long before this may happen the wheel should become pretty unrideable due to the gradually increasing play. Am I missing some important aspect of it?

 

You are likely correct. However, I have seen motors (non euc) wear enough to slip the key when they get loose.  A bigger concern to me is would be the shaft getting loose enough for the armature to start hitting the motor case or fields at an unopportune moment.  Also if it ever did spin 360 you would cut the motor wires.  

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15 hours ago, suicidebike said:

It's worth mentioning one of the weirder behaviours. When your wheel has this defect and you go over a bump or drop off a kerb, sometimes the wheel will end up in a rapid back and forth oscillation as it tries to correct for the motion of the axle vs rotor.

Kind-of good news, if this oscillation behavior (which a few people have observed) is indeed caused by a "simple" (now) known mechanical failure and not by a weird software bug.

Edited by Mono

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Couldn’t you just JB Weld it?  Fill in the gaps of the keyway as well. Don’t they say that the original JB Weld is stronger than welding and the steel?

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Hi suicidebike, can't quite make out from the images. Allow me understand further. Is the weld under the circlips on both sides, that we have to remove first, or welded over the circlips? Mine looks like these.

7In3mSb.jpgIndGJ4x.jpg 8IndGJ4x.jpg

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