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Creaky Monster


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Do deformed axle shims on the Gotway Monster cause the wheel to creak when accelerating and braking?  I've had my shims replaced before and I think they are failing because I do notice a familiar short lag or gap sometimes when I accelerate. I don't remember the odd creaking sound, however. I'll be taking the covers off this weekend to do some inspection. 

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3 hours ago, Demian B said:

Do deformed axle shims on the Gotway Monster cause the wheel to creak when accelerating and braking?  I've had my shims replaced before and I think they are failing because I do notice a familiar short lag or gap sometimes when I accelerate. I don't remember the odd creaking sound, however. I'll be taking the covers off this weekend to do some inspection. 

I don't think so. Really hard to know exactly what you're talking about without hearing it. One man's creak is another man's <fill in the blank>.

Many of my wheels creak after they've been used for awhile. The deformed shims will cause the forward/backward slop. Now I suppose if the axle nut(s) have loosened a bit that might contribute to the shell moving side-to-side which could cause some creaking.

Just some thoughts, nothing profound :mellow:

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@Demian B, what is the mileage on the wheel? How long have you owned it? Do you ride off road alot? Do you ride off kerbs etc? 

@Bob Eisenman, I wonder how his wheel is holding up. He has covered over 5000 on it. 

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6 hours ago, Edddeus said:

wonder how his wheel is holding up. He has covered over 5000 on it. 

Ride to RockportMileage

A number of weeks ago the Monster would intermittently only charge to 77%(sometimes higher ex 88%, 93%, 98%). Taking a financially conservative approach I purchased a new charger which arrived recently. 

Monster charger

 

When charged to either 77% or 100% the Monster runs as expected. 

The new charger sometimes only reaches 77% final charge unattended. I suspect a loose charging connection exists since 100% charge has been inconsistently attained with the new charger by changing the position of the Monster to a certain position (tilted with a shoe underneath?).

100% charge 8-14-2018 following a 23 mile ride.

 

Debating what to do.

Axle wear and tear (Marty Backe video) exits but not too severe. One legged riding attempts causes the tire to rub against the shell....a no problem issue for a no tricks rider. The one legged riding with shell rubbing bespeaks axle (shim) looseness of the type described by Marty Backe.

The Monster rides just fine with some start and stop creaking.

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6 hours ago, Bob Eisenman said:

 

A number of weeks ago the Monster would intermittently only charge to 77%(sometimes higher ex 88%, 93%, 98%). Taking a financially conservative approach I purchased a new charger which arrived recently. 

 

 

When charged to either 77% or 100% the Monster runs as expected. 

The new charger sometimes only reaches 77% final charge unattended. I suspect a loose charging connection exists since 100% charge has been inconsistently attained with the new charger by changing the position (tilted with a shoe underneath?).

 

 

Debating what to do.

Axle wear and tear (Marty Backed video) exits but not too severe. One legged riding attempts causes the tire to rub against the shell....a no problem issue for a no tricks rider. The one legged riding with shell rubbing bespeaks axel (shim) looseness of the type described by Marty Backe.

The Monster rides just fine with some start and stop creaking.

My ACM developed an intermittent charging issue. When I opened the wheel I discovered a poor solder joint on one of two wires going to the charging port. I re-soldered the wire and never saw the problem again. I suspect that's your problem.

I documented the problem and resolution here. If you're handy with a soldering iron you should be able to fix it.

 

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I've owned my Monster for a year and 4 months.  I believe it has about 1400 miles.  The control board was replaced when I had 500 miles and that reset the odometer to 0.  It now has 900 miles which I believe is a truthful record since the reset.  I say that because I've seen my other Gotway wheel, an MSuperV3S+, display an inaccurate odometer reading.  I ride mostly on pavement but probably on gravel or grass 10% of the time.  I might go off a curb once per ride and often go 20 miles or greater each trip.  I do, however, grab the handle to make landings a little softer.  I will try to post a video from my phone so that y'all can hear the creak, but last time I tried to do that, I encountered problems.  Thanks for input guys!  Although I don't contribute very often, I visit this forum frequently.  In my town of 250, 000, I've only ever seen one other on an EUC.  I'm a little concerned about eScooters coming to town because the mayor has publicly expressed that he strongly opposes them and would have them banned.  I can only imagine that my device might be more scrutinized by police if this happens.  So far, I've had a friendly relationship with cops because I'm respectful of road traffic, bike path users, pedestrians, and I'm always well lit.

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6 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

My ACM developed an intermittent charging issue. When I opened the wheel I discovered a poor solder joint on one of two wires going to the charging port

I opened up both sides of the shell but found no obvious solder melts. Without getting too serious about inspecting the charger port, which has a goodly amount of applied plastic goo all over it, the only odd find was a pinched wire. 

bare wire near post

I wrapped the bare wire in tape and reseated it away from the pinch point. I'll have to go for one or more rides and recharge cycles to find out if wrapping the bare wire has any effect on charging.

The MoBo looks good....and I did disconnect the battery after taking the photo  before proceeding with the inspection 

Main board

 

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@Bob Eisenman

For the charge issue: Please be very! carefully!

Beside those easy possibilities, that @Marty Backe posted and to what i totally agree....what also might be possible is that one of hour battery packs has a problem! If on one pack 1/2 cells would be dead, the pack would not charge above about 80% or somewhat number!

As the packs are connected by a kind of “balancer” cable....the other intact packs would also not go higher than the lowest pack!

And: If one of your packs is really having problems...you also might get in trouble connecting/reconnecting the packs together, and you might receive a big spark because of voltage difference....

So please pay attention!

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For the “creaky issue”:

I have to disagree with Marty....for me and in my experience this is the first stadium of loose axle nut...

The shims are deformed , just a little, little bit, and because now the wheel is able to move a bit in its shell pedal arm “inprint”: its creaking against the shell and : Its loud and clear sound which wasnt there on early days!!

Even if you check the nuts...they may look like totally secure and firm...

 

I also have this problem, “creaking” when moving,  or changing the direction of the wheel! 

(Also had that on my MSuper V3) For ME...it has only go away, when getting new shims.....

 

Just my 2 cents...or 4...

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57 minutes ago, Bob Eisenman said:

I opened up both sides of the shell but found no obvious solder melts. Without getting too serious about inspecting the charger port, which has a goodly amount of applied plastic goo all over it, the only odd find was a pinched wire. 

 

I wrapped the bare wire in tape and reseated it away from the pinch point. I'll have to go for one or more rides and recharge cycles to find out if wrapping the bare wire has any effect on charging.

The MoBo looks good....and I did disconnect the battery after taking the photo  before proceeding with the inspection 

Yes, the charge port is covered with 'Hot Glue". That's what kept my poorly soldered wire connected to the charge port solder-post. Until with time, the wire started moving away from the charge port.

If you keep having charging issues and would like to potentially fix the problem without delving into the battery packs as @us69 suggests, then you will have to inspect the charging port connections. The hot glue can be carefully pulled away from the charging port. There's no magic involved here, or an overly complicated process. There are two wires which are soldered to the charging port. You must inspect those wires.

If the charging port is the source of your problem, when you remove the hot glue I suspect one of the wires will come loose in your hand.

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3 hours ago, US69 said:

If on one pack 1/2 cells would be dead

Since the Monster does frequently charge to 100% (a pack voltage related correlation?) the thought that a bad cell exists seems less likely.

The balance cells charge concept is another thought....which is why I purchased a new charger as a 'rule out charger as the problem'.

The power button area looks like

Power button connection

 

The axles and shims look like:

Axel photosAxel photosAxel photos

 

Monster is back together. I'm 17 miles out on a 27 ish mile ride. 

Monster

The 'non-fast' Gotway shutdown has taken it's toll on several shell screw brackets anf falling (rotating when parked) forward and backward when shut off does a job on the headlight bracket too.

Broken shell parts.

SpeedyFeet's teardown video includes pressing the power button after disconnecting the battery to discharge the MoBo. Reconnecting the battery when the job was done created a small spark.

My right pedal magnet which holds the pedal against the shell had been 'dislodged' from the socket for some time following a slow Gotway shutdown and 'dancing' spin. It's good to have the magnet holding the pedal up again when not riding.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Bob Eisenman said:

I'm 17 miles out on a 27 ish mile ride. 

The ride back from Boston was fun.

At the start of the ride towards the Boston subway in Revere I took the drone up to 175 feet.

Here is the view of historic Salem harbor (near the old 'Pioneer Village') which also branches to the left (slim view) and on to Derby Wharf.

SSU athletic field in foreground.

Aug 14 - view from 175 feet over Pickman Park in Salem

 

Here is the view of the distant Boston skyline (left of center (between red brick tower and water tank). That's where I started a continuous ride on the Monster back to Salem.

Aug 14 - view from 175 feet over Pickman Park in Salem

 

Here is a view of the salt marsh (at high tide) behind Salem State University (SSU).

Aug 14 - view from 175 feet over Pickman Park in Salem

 

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2 hours ago, Bob Eisenman said:

Since the Monster does frequently charge to 100% (a pack voltage related correlation?) the thought that a bad cell exists seems less likely.

The balance cells charge concept is another thought....which is why I purchased a new charger as a 'rule out charger as the problem'.

The power button area looks like

 

 

The axles and shims look like:

 

 

Monster is back together. I'm 17 miles out on a 27 ish mile ride. 

 

The 'non-fast' Gotway shutdown has taken it's toll on several shell screw brackets anf falling (rotating when parked) forward and backward when shut off does a job on the headlight bracket too.

 

SpeedyFeet's teardown video includes pressing the power button after disconnecting the battery to discharge the MoBo. Reconnecting the battery when the job was done created a small spark.

My right pedal magnet which holds the pedal against the shell had been 'dislodged' from the socket for some time following a slow Gotway shutdown and 'dancing' spin. It's good to have the magnet holding the pedal up again when not riding.

 

 

Well, you know what to do if you still have charging issues.

"Slow shutdowns"???  Bob, certainly you're a pro-rider by now. What are you doing dropping your Monster :P

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6:10 am and at 100% 

Monster at 100%

Maybe another charge cycle for charging woes ?

7 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

What are you doing dropping your Monster

Stuff happens?

Gonna get me one a them fast chargers some day and be a charged up star........yep.......woulda bought one a few weeks ago but thought otherwise..

Gonna download soma them goofy emoji's everyone uses too...maybe create a custom silk screen for tees

 

Hey....did you watch Tiger Woods play golf this weekend? Years before he tanked off the charts with problems I staked out a position at TPC Boston (way back from the crowds) where, when he played through, he walked an arm's length away on the way to the next tee. A pretty calm looking fellow at the time.  He had just hooked  deep left into the rough and on the green the next shot. I'd never seen someone survey their putt like him. I don't remember if he made par or birdied.

Long drive John Daly passed by too. Amazing oversized driver head speed off the tee.

My lower back was just becoming a problem back then ....I was having a bad day with it and sort of walked with a limp out to watch...I can understand what Tiger went through with his back problems.

Riding an EUC has been good for me as far as my back goes....except last week when I threw my back out again lifting Monster at a gas station air fill station. First comes the oh no feeling, then several days of muscle pain and slightly.restricted movement as the lower back reheals....then diminishing symptoms. I don't think I'll ever need or want surgery.

I should have used my bicycle pump at the place where I live before I left with Monster. Slime has done wonders for my tire which never seems to go below 30 psi (32 psi preferred). I should have never checked it at the air fill station.

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My Monster's blue paint started to come off after using a wet sponge to remove mud. I think that this is related to a thin layer of annodized metal (possibly aluminum) applied directly to the shell plastic.

https://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/39987/Anodizing-Processes-for-Plastic-Substrates

The reason for annodized the shell might be intentional for cooling purposes.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?334664-does-anodizing-affect-heat-dissapation

So.....since my Monster is currently 3 for 3 in terms of charging to 100% after 'releasing' the pinched wire:

The thought that the post EUC ride annodized layer contact position of the pinched bare wire with the metal annodization coating had something to do with the sometimes abnormal charge levels supports this hypothesis. Abnormal charging which was mysteriously 'cured' by tilting the Monster with a shoe now has an electronic basis since annodized aluminum surfaces are conductive.

https://www.techbriefs.com/component/content/article/tb/techbriefs/materials/1159

I'm only three for three (charging to 100% after a ride) but that is my present theory on the abnormal charging problem. The paint surely debonded (looking light blue to turquoise) with the metalic looking undercoating!

Third charge to 100%Annodized plasticAnnodized plastic

 

 

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 8/16/2018 at 7:26 AM, Bob Eisenman said:

The thought that the post EUC ride annodized layer contact position of the pinched bare wire with the metal annodization coating had something to do with the sometimes abnormal charge levels 

After checking my overnight charge level on the Monster it read only 78% as it did before the repair. After a tear down inspection of the 'taped wire' described above it was found to not be in contact with the annodized chassis. Rubbing the pinched wire a bit I reassembled the shell case covering the batteries. The charger went 'red' and has been charging for the 1+ hours. Currently reading 94% and still charging.

I probably should consider patch wiring across the pinched spot.

The new pedals work fine but the screws in the ACM pedals started coming loose. I bought and applied some 'threadlock' plastic tape and the hex screw looseness disappeared.

Charged to 100% 

Recharge to 100% after pinched wire rub

Only the pedals remain to be re-attached.

Charging up the Monster

Pedals on again

Pedals on.

 

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