EUC Extreme Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 I got a good tip to put the rubber between the pedal that should be some flexibility. The problem was to find a suitable thick rubber.Had to make a vacuum table metal milling machines.Now I easily made it thick rubber when I want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimlet Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 I have to admit I'm having trouble working out where and how you fitted the rubber into the pedals from these pictures vee73.When I suggested rubber I thought you were going to fit a piece of sheet rubber of the appropriate thickness that would be pinched between the pedal and the pedal hanger/leg that would be compressed by your weight on the pedals and give a little suspension by pivoting on the pedal hinges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Right there between the rubber I have put.At the place where the figure is two metal plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimlet Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 That's where I I thought it should go. On the M10 it could be held in place by the two screws, which I suppose you could fit to any pedal hinge.How did you solve the problems you were having holding it in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 I fastened it with two screws.The problem has been the durability of the rubber.They will remain in place Yes, but can not withstand the stress that they will be.They wear out at a driving trip.Between while driving accumulate a lot of all kinds of junk and they break the rubber.I've tried a variety of gums.I believe that no rubber does not last.I have to think about a more permanent way.Spring might be.Off-road driving pedal pounding violently rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimlet Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Maybe you should try cutting a piece out of an old car tyre. I would think that rubber compound would be fairly robust.Probably have to use the sidewall rather than the tread but should still last a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 One additional requirement bring it to the rubber should not be 2mm thicker. If you take a little bit out of aluminum, should be put on a thicker rubber. Perhaps it would take longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Aliens took my Gotway's.It participates in their program .. Help slow the Earth's wanderer.Let's see, will they be here faster .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Today I tried how Gotway 18 passes Lipo batteries.(Revolectrix 16S 60C 3700mAh)It went to the really superb.When I went to test, I had the original battery full, and there were lipo batteries which had the purpose of storage charge.Came to pass as I suspected.Empty lipo batteries torque was more than the original batteries when they are full.I drove lipo batteries so frustrated that the device began to raise pedals. I do not even know that Gotway does so of battery.I have never original batteries driven so frustrated because the torque is at a dangerously low for a load of 30%.But lipo batteries torque was even more than the original when they are full.This test is now up to that, the original batteries will give way to the lipo take their place.It is full of original batteries did not bother to get up, empty lipo continuously give strength so that ring began to spin.I took a short video in which time almost at maximum speed.The video is the original batteries.I need a faster Gotway's !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 That's interesting, where does the extra torque come from? Higher voltage or just something to do with the battery chemistry (giving higher current or something)? Do you know if it wears out the motor faster or could damage the mainboard?I wouldn't mind more speed either, but that looks way too fast to me (taking into account the kind of terrain you ride) Maybe you could ask if Gotway could build you a custom wheel that goes faster Probably would cost a lot though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 The speed does not increase. But lipo battery capable of giving the big currents, voltage without dripping. Ever increasing torque will be. Original battery voltage drop at the slightest exertion, and then there is no strength to wring as much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 I opened Firewheel's because I change the new shells.At the same time I put the device to its original state, and sell off. I have come to the conclusion that I do not need a device whose maximum speed is less than 40kmh.Now, in such a way at the same time to make BMS change the batteries, or what was it now again But could hobby16 now advise the pictures how to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobby16 Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Hi vee,I've just posted the mod for Firewheel here : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/sutra19241_solution-probleme-bms.html#19241with schematics and pictures.The thing to do is to shunt A & B (red line).I have butchered (less than you do, there is no scalpel for precision cutting in Finland or what ??) the shrinkwrap film to see where to shunt but for future modders, no need to remove the film, all you need is to locate the two depressions in the aluminium plate and cut two small holes to access to points A & B to make the shunt.Warning : don't go from A to B with a straight wire because it will add to the thickness of the battery and you'll have problem remounting it. Use a longer wire and go around the aluminium plate so you don't change the thickness of the whole block. On the picture, I use scrapped 220V wires and double them to allow for more current but one big wire would be enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 Okay. Thank you very much for you. I appreciate your advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 oh dearI touched another cable, and it was just out of it. Plain shrink has kept the cable in place.Also, another cord is the time to be plugged in securely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmethvin Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 hobby16, only the second battery of the two needs to be shunted? The other one does not? I like your comment in the other forum: ne pas shunter, c'est du suicide ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobby16 Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 The "second battery" is in fact the lower 8 cells of the Firewheel's 16S2P (one cell = 2 batteries 18650)in parallel) battery pack, so it does not contain any BMS to be modded.They split the 16cells in two blocks of 8 cells, otherwise it would be too thick for the housing. Then they link the two blocks with a bunch of 9 wires, a rather poor engineering choice as to assembly and reliability. On the Gotway, the 16 cells are all in one thick block but the housing has enough space for it.So yes indeed, you need to cut just one block, the one containing the BMS (see the picture to locate where to cut).To sum up, a lot of BMS have been modded successfully (TG, Airwheel, SML, Firewheel...). I will make a post to list and them all, with relevant and updated pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobby16 Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 oh dearI touched another cable, and it was just out of it. Plain shrink has kept the cable in place.Wowww, crazy !!! Another Firewheeler had about the same sloppy soldering : he got strange sounds from the electronic board (normally, the Firewheel is very quiet), then he discovered some half baked solder points on the BMS AND the motherboard. After visual inspection and resoldering, no more sound. The fab guy at Firewheel should be fired (by a firesquad) !!Otherwise, nice mod, you got exactly what I meant to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 It's a shame they have such bad quality problems, from what I've heard Firewheel would be a great product if they just took the time to work out the kinks (BMS, mainboard problems), do proper sealing inside the wheel and have some real quality control. Shouldn't be that hard / high cost... plus people would probably pay more for the wheels if they were higher quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmethvin Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 @hobby16 Ah now I understand all those extra wires! It's also a really unfortunate placement of the BMS under the shrink wrap because the edge hits on that plastic bump that aligns the black circle panels that go on the outside. As you can see from the pictures I had to do a little bit of creative sculpting to get things to fit. There is plenty of room under the battery near the center because the shell curves out, but it's just in the wrong place.I still have the old battery pack for now, although I've offered to send it back if they pay return shipping. If they don't want it back I may use it to experiment with the BMS mod, or perhaps create an external battery pack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Now I have tested more Lipo battery.The last time I tried briefly to the initial full battery charge, and an empty lipo battery. Gotway 18, is a lipo battery much better.I tested the battery which is Revolectrix Diamond Label 16S 60C 3700mAh.Batteries were clearly warm even had a slim backpack and the air temperature was 11 ° CThis battery I got driven off-road approx. 6 km.When the battery is discharged, the voltage was 55V at rest.I stopped driving as soon as the pedals began to rise.In relation to the size of the battery, it is really a little bit. But even that will tell you that, the original batteries to hand over power really limited.Gotway 18 Speed can not show the best performance with the original battery.While the battery is full of pedals are loose, rather than a steep uphill afraid to accelerate.While the lipo battery is activated, the pedals are really Robust in every situation and a really steep incline momentum can accelerate quite safely. Pedals remains rigid and accelerates easily.This difference can be as soon as you start moving.I could already get used to lipo battery to bring into force so much that when it ended, and I changed the original batteries, I was at the beginning of the crash because of too high acceleration. The difference is truly staggering between the two batteries.I do not feel like a longer drive original batteries, because the difference is so staggering. Gotway 18 feel really bad offroading original batteries.Now that I look forward to the new shells that I can accurately measure how big lipo battery can i put. Then I'll buy as big. Since the power seems to go really much when it is available.At the same time I get the upgrade high speed. It is then 43kmh and alarm 38kmh Edit:While lipo battery power is consumed much more and one charge can no longer very far, it's not a problem for me. I have aggregate in the car and I can thus be used for the charging equipment for charging the terrain and goes up to 20 minutes if the batteries are approximately 1000ah.If I have to get even faster, I have to buy another aggregate, as well as the charger. Power Sources I already have two.So this does not become a problem.I am a very successful uploaded 12S RC helicopter batteries at a rate of about 11C. Revolectrix batteries easily withstand such speeds, and the age of the substantially shortened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Gotway 18 of the circuit board temperature went quite easily 60 degrees.It may be that I will have it done by a separate cooling. Because batteries also come to be heated quite strongly and are in a confined space.Who remembers how much was the temperature at which the engine shuts down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 @vee73: from some random specification sheet I quickly googled up:High temperature alarmIf the temperature of the circuit board is over 70°,Gotway will alarm ,pedals will go backward.So sounds like it's going to tilt the pedals, but doesn't say if it will shut down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Ah, it was so. Thank you. That new that is coming, it is increased to 10 degrees produce heat notice.That is, it is then 80 degrees.Oh. I forgot to update the signatures .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobby16 Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 At the same time I get the upgrade high speed. It is then 43kmh and alarm 38kmh Holy cow, that's unsane I thought I was acting dangerously riding over 25km/h with my Firewheel, not anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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