sb3en Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 On 8/27/2018 at 4:48 PM, joku said: Wow, maybe it is a hardware issue. Maybe try and reinstall the trolley sensors so that everything is flush and not too tight? You shouldn't have to do it in the first place, but at this point, you're the best at recreating the issue - maybe you can solve it. I havent seen the sensor, but if it has two wires and only two wires, I would remove the sensor from the circuit and solder those wires together and electrical tape it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb3en Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 On 8/28/2018 at 3:26 PM, esaj said: Maybe I've misunderstood, but I think they mean the oscillator for the MCU, ie. the external component creating the clock signal for the MCU? Unless there are several oscillators on the board. EDIT: Assuming they follow the typical marking conventions (Y = crystal) and have running numbers for the components, there's at least 2 crystal oscillators there (Y2 seen in the picture, there's bound to be Y1 somewhere, might be more): Under the large chip marked U1 (probably an MCU) near the center of the picture. If thats the case then with a heavy duty dryer or industrial blow dryer the ball grid solders could be reheated and remelted for loose contacts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 26 minutes ago, sb3en said: I havent seen the sensor, but if it has two wires and only two wires, I would remove the sensor from the circuit and solder those wires together and electrical tape it . It's a strain gauge (load cell), as seen in the EcoDrift review pictures: So the measurement is more complex, don't know how they exactly do it in this case, but the slight bending of the "lip" in the gauge causes a change in resistance, which is then measured through a sensitive amplifier (such as HX-711, which is specifically a "load cell amplifier" with ADC, but I don't know what they use in the KS's). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joku Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 10 hours ago, phatmike said: I just did 20 KM with the new firmware. Something changed here! I feel the wheel more aggressive in acceleration and braking. Can you turn the wheel on and then connect the charger and see if the motor stays engaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatmike Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 1 hour ago, joku said: Can you turn the wheel on and then connect the charger and see if the motor stays engaged? I did and the motor stays engaged 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zugu Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 12 hours ago, phatmike said: I just did 20 KM with the new firmware. Something changed here! I feel the wheel more aggressive in acceleration and braking. Great so the update IS a Must... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unventor Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 14 hours ago, phatmike said: I just did 20 KM with the new firmware. Something changed here! I feel the wheel more aggressive in acceleration and braking. You are sure it has not shifted in ride mode? I didn't feel any different on my 16 km ride yesterday just after I did my update. But then again it was a "new" track I only have do parts of before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
houseofjob Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 15 hours ago, phatmike said: I just did 20 KM with the new firmware. Something changed here! I feel the wheel more aggressive in acceleration and braking. What firmware version were you coming from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb3en Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 7 hours ago, sb3en said: If thats the case then with a heavy duty dryer or industrial blow dryer the ball grid solders could be reheated and remelted for loose contacts. Oops my bad no ball grid arrays, I miss read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatmike Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 3 hours ago, houseofjob said: What firmware version were you coming from? 1.10 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatmike Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 4 hours ago, Unventor said: You are sure it has not shifted in ride mode? I didn't feel any different on my 16 km ride yesterday just after I did my update. But then again it was a "new" track I only have do parts of before. I tried all the ride modes Today I'll try my favorite path ( with a really big downhill) to have a confirmation of my first impression 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatmike Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 (edited) I can confirm my first impression, expecially on braking, the wheel is more aggressive. Another thing that I did not notice is that the light in the front lost some brightness ( I don’t know if is firmware related). If I go backward the other light is bright as usual. Very annoyng. How I can fix it? Moving the mudguard to the other side???? Edited September 1, 2018 by phatmike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arek12127 Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 In my case also after uploading fw1.11 and about 40km the light lost some brightness. The lamp had blinking randomly few minutes and lost brightness permanently. Unfortunately, probably the lamp module has been damaged, the diode is very like overheated due to too high current. Hold back with upgrade to fw1.11. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomOnWheels Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 1 hour ago, phatmike said: I can confirm my first impression, expecially on braking, the wheel is more aggressive. Another thing that I did not notice is that the light in the front lost some brightness ( I don’t know if is firmware related). If I go backward the other light is bright as usual. Very annoyng. How I can fix it? Moving the mudguard to the other side???? Oh same here ! Front light is very weak ! I was thinking that there is something wrong with LEDs and was about to dismount my wheel again for checking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Circuitmage Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 @Arek12127 Good to know. Will hold off. Update: 1.10 still good for me. Not many miles since I updated, but using lift more. Lift still not working 100%, but when it does I feel special. I see very little in the way of new people stating any trolly lock up issues...so that bodes well this week. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nrvfromcnr Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) 20 hours ago, Circuitmage said: I see very little in the way of new people stating any trolly lock up issues...so that bodes well this week. It happended to me 5 days ago with FW 1.10 in case you missed it The after-sales service has a motherboard for replacement, it shouldn't take too long ... Edited September 5, 2018 by nrvfromcnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatmike Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 On 9/1/2018 at 10:10 PM, TomOnWheels said: Oh same here ! Front light is very weak ! I was thinking that there is something wrong with LEDs and was about to dismount my wheel again for checking... The new lights now have a heat sink to prevent from over heating. On the left the new light. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
em1barns Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 1 hour ago, phatmike said: The new lights now have a heat sink to prevent from over heating. On the left the new light. Any idea from which construction date these new lights were implemented? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Circuitmage Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 @nrvfromcnr Did you do it yourself or did the dealer replace it? My seller has not indicated I need a new controller board yet, so I still have original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Valley Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 someone not so long ago wrote about the wheel losing balance at a intersection, while waiting for green light. well i had a similiar incident just now, while waiting, i was calmly idling back and forth, and on the way forth the wheel gave 2 quick beebs(just like when lifting it) and momenterely(microseconds)lost balance, just so i could feel the loss of power but still remained balanced. afterwards i rode 20km no problemo. i think the trolley is a real troll. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zugu Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Rob Valley said: ...part. i think the trolley is a real troll. I really think so.... Using the trolley up and down up and down and apply sometimes a lever force ..it became the week point that create unaspected bugs .... a week and light mechanical o Part.... Even in released position it can create false contacts that can innes conduct to beeps in loosing balance Edited September 5, 2018 by zugu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Valley Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 I Bet there is a little bit of pull on the sensors becouse of the deformation of the shell when standing on it. And the sensors go into a pretty tight slit, so even the slightest bend in the shell would make the sensor values jump. so better programming could solve this. I Remember seeing some videos how to correctly install the trolley, anybody know where it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baracuda50 Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Rob Valley said: I Bet there is a little bit of pull on the sensors becouse of the deformation of the shell when standing on it. And the sensors go into a pretty tight slit, so even the slightest bend in the shell would make the sensor values jump. so better programming could solve this. I Remember seeing some videos how to correctly install the trolley, anybody know where it is? You mean this video? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arek12127 Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 7 hours ago, phatmike said: The new lights now have a heat sink to prevent from over heating. On the left the new light. My lights have a heat sink but despite this the front one lost its brightness as i wrote earlier. After replacing the front with rear lamps and vice versa the broken one still has poor brightness. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Valley Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 49 minutes ago, baracuda50 said: You mean this video? no sorry i meant the video how to install the trolley sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.