Speed2Increase and how to change max Ninebot speed

[Darek Łuba]

On 7/2/2018 at 1:24 PM, GMOne said:

First

i'm not an expert but just comparing picture from you and pdf from GMOne it's seems to like you put VCC (pink wire) in a wrogn place... Check it, i'm only base on pdf and your picture - without any knowledge..

 

 

[GMOne]

9 hours ago, Vitaliy Yandulov said:

Looks like it is connected in right way, but I have this log in J-Flash ARM 4.20:

How do you think, what can be the problem? May be it's just bad quality of connection?

 

  Hide contents

C15 is the brown one, and the wire must be soldered on the nearer contact w.r.t. the chip. The picture is quite unclear. Remember that you meet the same error if you didn't the "power trick" bridge, that gives 3.3V to the microcontroller.

You can check it:

1) through a multimeter

2) the red led on the board that switches on

3) the Ninebot led strings blinking red and orange.

Edited September 2, 2018 by GMOne

[Vitaliy Yandulov]

12 hours ago, GMOne said:

C15 is the brown one, and the wire must be soldered on the nearer contact w.r.t. the chip. The picture is quite unclear. Remember that you meet the same error if you didn't the "power trick" bridge, that gives 3.3V to the microcontroller.

You can check it:

1) through a multimeter

2) the red led on the board that switches on

3) the Ninebot led strings blinking red and orange.

I think I have soldered wire on the right place, but you are right. If I don't see any blinking of leds, then I haven't power. May be it's because of bad wire connection. I have low skill in soldering and primitive rough instrument for so tiny details. In the evening I'll try again.

Spoiler

 

Edited September 3, 2018 by Vitaliy Yandulov

[Vitaliy Yandulov]

Hi again! I got why I can't connect. Power was off at first leg (tref), it was at second leg (nc) (Thanks to Beev from other forum). I connected first on to second and it works now. I saved dump of firmware. Programm of MRN76 read it, but it can't change speed limit (first screenshot). And the programm of gmone doesn't work =( (second screenshot). What have I done wrong? Have someone any ideas?

[GMOne]

2 hours ago, Vitaliy Yandulov said:

Hi again! I got why I can't connect. Power was off at first leg (tref), it was at second leg (nc) (Thanks to Beev from other forum). I connected first on to second and it works now. I saved dump of firmware. Programm of MRN76 read it, but it can't change speed limit (first screenshot). And the programm of gmone doesn't work =( (second screenshot). What have I done wrong? Have someone any ideas?

The program needs administrator rights. Did you give them to it?

[zzj]

On 9/5/2018 at 7:47 PM, Vitaliy Yandulov said:

你好，我们又见面了！我知道为什么我无法连接。第一回合（tref）断电，第二回合（nc）（感谢来自其他论坛的Beev）。我先连接到第二个，现在可以正常工作了。我保存了固件转储。MRN76的程序读取它，但它不能改变速度限制（第一次截图）。并且gmone的程序不起作用=（（第二次截图）。我做错了什么？有人有什么想法吗？

路径请使用英文 文件名也是英文 才能识别并修改

{Moderator Edit:}The above says:”Please use the path in English. The file name is also in English to be recognized and modified.” 

Edited September 7, 2018 by Keith
Reply is in Chinese and was not being understood.

[zzj]

On 6/29/2018 at 4:10 AM, GMOne said:

大家好！

正如我向自己承诺的那样，我努力开发这个应用程序。

这是最新版本。

可用速度：

- 一个16至24公里/小时的电池

- 22至30公里/小时的两节电池。

所需物品：

0）Ninebot A1或A1 +或S1或S2（具有最近的固件）;

1）J-Link（克隆）连接和下载原始固件;

2）将J-Link连接到Ninebot的焊接技巧很少;

3）原始固件的备份！我不会这样做！

4）此软件可修改您的原始固件。

您可以在下面找到完整的教程。

请发给我其他Ninebot二进制文件，以增加我的应用程序的兼容性。

请记住......我工作很辛苦，我想让它变得更好并使其与您的设备兼容，所以请一般...... ?

通过点击KO-FI，你可以捐赠......想想你如何支付你的速度...... ? 

随意提出建议，大错误补丁等等！任何反馈意见。

 

晚安！

 

GM

 

请记得喜欢我，或者如果你觉得我爱我！?

 

 

 

Speed2Increase120.zip

谢谢你 很感谢你做的这一切 

{Moderator Edit:} the above says: “Thank you, thank you very much for all this.”

Edited September 7, 2018 by Keith

[Vitaliy Yandulov]

8 hours ago, GMOne said:

The program needs administrator rights. Did you give them to it?

Yes, I tried to run it with administrator rights ._. May be I need to save dump of firmware in some other specific way? 

Update: Oh, I got what the problem. The programm can't work with russian symbols in address to file. Now I can keep moving. But only in the evening, now I have to go to work

Edited September 6, 2018 by Vitaliy Yandulov

[GMOne]

16 hours ago, Vitaliy Yandulov said:

Yes, I tried to run it with administrator rights ._. May be I need to save dump of firmware in some other specific way? 

Update: Oh, I got what the problem. The programm can't work with russian symbols in address to file. Now I can keep moving. But only in the evening, now I have to go to work

Of course I am quite curious if that was the problem. ?

[Artyom]

On 9/5/2018 at 9:47 PM, Vitaliy Yandulov said:

Hi again! I got why I can't connect. Power was off at first leg (tref), it was at second leg (nc) (Thanks to Beev from other forum). I connected first on to second and it works now. I saved dump of firmware. Programm of MRN76 read it, but it can't change speed limit (first screenshot). And the programm of gmone doesn't work =( (second screenshot). What have I done wrong? Have someone any ideas?

Hi
Ninebot dump editor v3.0.0.0 
I also want to try to change the maximum speed on my ninebot one e

[GMOne]

Hundreds of people tell to me many things (even with IMPERATIVE form), and of course i can make my program compatible with E, E+, MiniPro and so on. And also with DIFFERENT BRANDS.

Sadly i DIDN'T RECEIVE ANY and when i tell ANY i mean ANY DONATION. NOTHING. After three months and MANY successful mods.

So i have no funds to do any further research. I have faith in you. I cannot follow hundreds of people mailing me almost all the time for free. I cannot create and test firmwares on different wheel than mine. THIS PROJECT NEEDS YOUR HELP.

I can think to mod one wheel if i own it. I cannot mod a firmware without testing it.

Please donate something, so the project will be kept alive and it can grow.

And, i'm so sorry, but overall it's a little bit also about mutual gift.

 

Best regards,

 

GMOne

Edited September 12, 2018 by GMOne

[MRN76]

21 hours ago, GMOne said:

Hundreds of people tell to me many things (even with IMPERATIVE form), and of course i can make my program compatible with E, E+, MiniPro and so on. And also with DIFFERENT BRANDS.

Sadly i DIDN'T RECEIVE ANY and when i tell ANY i mean ANY DONATION. NOTHING. After three months and MANY successful mods.

So i have no funds to do any further research. I have faith in you. I cannot follow hundreds of people mailing me almost all the time for free. I cannot create and test firmwares on different wheel than mine. THIS PROJECT NEEDS YOUR HELP.

I can think to mod one wheel if i own it. I cannot mod a firmware without testing it.

Please donate something, so the project will be kept alive and it can grow.

And, i'm so sorry, but overall it's a little bit also about mutual gift.

 

Best regards,

 

GMOne

At the Russian-speaking forum you wrote that I do poorly, asking for my work money. On the series C,C+,E,E+,P I have already done everything, for free.

[GMOne]

5 hours ago, MRN76 said:

At the Russian-speaking forum you wrote that I do poorly, asking for my work money. On the series C,C+,E,E+,P I have already done everything, for free.

I don't want to discuss about it, it's a little fund raising. Completely different from your position. The public "mod" you did it's about changing serial, nothing more nothing less. Maybe the latest (because of my software?) does something, I don't care. I need to test, some mods can be really dangerous. And I have no E, E+ to test. And even with some tools I can improve my results.

It seems that you did it a lot and you gained money. Good for you. Only people can tell if your approach is better than mine. Doing some donations or not. Let's see it. 

[GaperMaster]

Hi I've finally received the J-link from aliexpress and I am ready to try connect to the motherboard. However, I have gotten stuck at trying to remove the pedals. I am trying to hammer out the pin that holds the pedals to the body. It does not seem to want to come out. There is no instructions or videos that I can find on how to access the control board on the S1 except for this German video on youtube: 

.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get these darn pedals off? 

[Krom68]

Hi,

 

First I would like to thank for the mod.

I did it yesterday and I have to say that the connection from the board to the J-link took me a little time in research to get it working.

However I managed to make it work on the first try with no previous on wheel disasembly.

 

Thank you so much GMONE.

 

@GaperMaster

to undo the pedals, after you remove the external screw, try to push the metal barre on one side until you si a little plastic cap coming of.

At this point you have to push the metal bare the other way , otherwhise, the second plastic cap will stay blocked on the hinge. 

 

Hope that will help.

 

 

Edited September 21, 2018 by Krom68

[Ziiten]

I posted wrong vid, sorry

Edited September 21, 2018 by Ziiten

[GaperMaster]

1 hour ago, Krom68 said:

Hi,

 

First I would like to thank for the mod.

I did it yesterday and I have to say that the connection from the board to the J-link took me a little time in research to get it working.

However I managed to make it work on the first try with no previous on wheel disasembly.

 

Thank you so much GMONE.

 

@GaperMaster

to undo the pedals, after you remove the external screw, try to push the metal barre on one side until you si a little plastic cap coming of.

At this point you have to push the metal bare the other way , otherwhise, the second plastic cap will stay blocked on the hinge. 

 

Hope that will help.

 

 

Hi Krom,

Thank you for the advice. So I remove the external screw from both sides, and also loosened the middle screw. I can see the plastic caps inside at the ends of the metal bar. When you say push the metal bar, how did you push it? I'm using a hammer and a screwdriver that I put against the plastic cap. It doesn't seem to be able to move the bar or the plastic caps at all. They seem very firmly stuck inside. Any tips or tricks to push a cap out one side? I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[Krom68]

I've used a screwdriver to push the metal bar once the other plastic comes of remove the screwdriver and push the bar the other way (so it exit the site you inserted the screw driver initially).

 

Hope this is clear enough

 

Edit: You must not push against the plastic cap, the plastic bit is actualy the bit that prevents you to get the metal bar out.

Push the other end to free the plastic cap first

Edited September 21, 2018 by Krom68

[GMOne]

I want publicly thank krom68 that did a donation. If i had one J-Trace debugger... I will donate my efforts to more mods, and in the future to work with new models. Thanks!

Of course you're welcome for whatever question you want to put.

 

GMOne

Edited September 21, 2018 by GMOne

[GaperMaster]

 

8 hours ago, Krom68 said:

I've used a screwdriver to push the metal bar once the other plastic comes of remove the screwdriver and push the bar the other way (so it exit the site you inserted the screw driver initially).

 

Hope this is clear enough

 

Edit: You must not push against the plastic cap, the plastic bit is actualy the bit that prevents you to get the metal bar out.

Push the other end to free the plastic cap first

Hi Krom,

Interesting. This is very helpful. Hopefully I have not done too much damage already to make this even harder. I will have to look again but I thought there was a plastic cap on both ends of the metal bar, but I will look more closely to see if this is true. It sounds like you are saying there is only 1 plastic cap on one end, so I need to push the bar from the other end which will push out the cap, and then push back the other way to get the bar out. This makes sense, I hope it works, and I can start working on the the actual firmware upgrade! 

Many thanks!

Edited September 21, 2018 by GaperMaster

[Krom68]

 @GMOneno problem I did enjoy the mod you did, everything works smoothly and you share it to the community.

[GaperMaster]

@GMOne

I was finally able to get the pedals off and gain access to the control board. I have made the 5 solders to the control board and have added the bridge for the jlink vtref and 3.3V. 

I'm now trying to download the firmware, but I'm unable to find the J-Flash v4.20a like you specified on Google. Anyone have a link? I would appreciate a PM. 

Edited September 24, 2018 by GaperMaster

[GaperMaster]

I have found the J-Link v4.20a software, and I am now trying to connect to the board but receiving and error: "Could not find flash devices. Failed to connect." 

The J-Link light is lit green, and the board has 2 orange lights on, one blinking one solid. Any help or ideas about what I'm doing wrong?

Edited September 24, 2018 by GaperMaster

[GMOne]

52 minutes ago, GaperMaster said:

I have found the J-Link v4.20a software, and I am now trying to connect to the board but receiving and error: "Could not find flash devices. Failed to connect." 

The J-Link light is lit green, and the board has 2 orange lights on, one blinking one solid. Any help or ideas about what I'm doing wrong?

Hi! The soldering points seem to be right. Your Chinese interface is a little bit different from mine. Have you any multimeter? Could you check if on the bridge there are 3.3V with respect to the ground? Your Chinese interface has a bridge at the bottom near the connector, so I suspect this can enable or disable 3.3V... Please check it with one multimeter, do not try to change it and nothing more, I don't know what it is...

[GaperMaster]

10 hours ago, GMOne said:

Hi! The soldering points seem to be right. Your Chinese interface is a little bit different from mine. Have you any multimeter? Could you check if on the bridge there are 3.3V with respect to the ground? Your Chinese interface has a bridge at the bottom near the connector, so I suspect this can enable or disable 3.3V... Please check it with one multimeter, do not try to change it and nothing more, I don't know what it is...

Ok, I do not have a multimeter, but I will borrow one from a friend. A few questions.

1) Which pin should I measure with respect to ground? The power pin (Vcc)? I am using the pdf below that you provided for reference. I will report what voltage I find after I borrow the multimeter. 

2) Also, when you say the Chinese interface is different because it has a bridge at the bottom near the connector. Are you talking about the bridge indicated in my picture (It has a red arrow pointing to it)? 

3) Notice in my final connection picture, I have removed the additional board which had the 3.3 to VTref bridge (red x in the picture). I have not done any soldering to the J-link at all. I plugged all the wires directly into the Chinese V-link as it came directly from the box. 

4) Thank you so much for all your help. 

1464150533_Howtoconnect.pdf

Edited September 24, 2018 by GaperMaster