Speed2Increase and how to change max Ninebot speed

[GMOne]

Galletto 4 is a quite particular device for cars (as you know?),TBH I don't know its software. Anyway I'm not much optimistic about it, because you don't need the JTAG features of J-Link, you use a different mode to program the uC (Serial Wire Debug). So maybe you can search for SWD programming through Galletto, and if it's possible (maybe some undocumented features...).

[GMOne]

On 10/22/2018 at 12:13 AM, Frank Martin said:

Hi every one,

GMONE, thanks for the advices you give in this topic. i'm thinking about try this patch on my S2, to start, im gonna buy this Jlink :

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/292765356398

is it the good one ? its not the cheaper but faster than chinese shipping..

I will keep you posted about my work in the further weeks, and for sure offer you a coffee !! thanks again for your work

etienne

The device you bought is the right one! ?

So let's wait for it... ?

[IhKa]

Sorry, machine translation.

Programmer ST-Link V2.

We need the programmer itself. You can buy it on AliExpress. For example here:

https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/FREE-SHIPPING-ST-Link-V2-stlink-mini-STM8STM32-STLINK-simulator-download-programming-With-Cover/1766455290.html?spm=a2g0v.10010108.1000014.24.416d1350yS9TCq&pvid=89863938-68f5-4833-9396-ba5446814056&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.115538.0&scm-url=1007.13338.115538.0&scm_id=1007.13338.115538.0

To work with it you need the program STM32 ST-LINK Utility. We download it for free from the official website of the manufacturer’s company controller:

https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stsw-link004.html

Link at the very bottom of the page. You will be asked to provide your first name, last name (any) and your email. A download link will be sent to the mail..

After downloading install the program. At the end of the installation, the program will ask you to install the driver. Be sure to allow the driver to install. Now, if you connect a programmer, Windows will detect it and sign “ST-Link”. This can be viewed by hovering over the USB connection icon next to the clock.

Also download the Speed2Increase application at the beginning of this topic. Thanks to GMOne for the work done.

Now you need to prepare a lot of space for disassembling your wheel.

We look at the online disassembly instructions.

Remove from both sides of the sidewall. I could not open them. I had to pry the corner with a thin screwdriver and pull it up. Then push the usual screwdriver into the slot and press upwards from the inside. The sides open with a bang, but everything remains intact.

Disconnect the battery. The manufacturer indicates - first disconnect the thin wires, then thick. When you connect the battery - on the contrary.

Disconnect the motor wires. Connections are packed with shrink tube, carefully cut it without damaging the wires, and disconnect.

Unscrew and remove the parts above the LEDs.

Now, on both sides, unscrew the screws connecting the two halves of the case. To remove one of the halves, it is necessary to remove one pedal. Remove the pedal from the side where there is no motor wires. Do not forget to unscrew the small locking screw at the bottom of the pedal in the middle. Unscrew the four screws near the pedal. Raise half of the case and disconnect the wires to the LED strip. Raise the top with a handle and disconnect the LED strip from the other half.

We unscrew the metal radiator of the controller on four screws. Raise it and disconnect the wire connectors.

Finally, we have a controller in our hands. When assembling, pay attention to the thick wires for the batteries. On the board indicated by arrows, where they should be sent.

Now you need to connect the programmer to the controller board.

There was no RESET on my programmer, so I connected four wires.

The RESET that is on ST-Link v2 is not suitable, it is for another microcontroller. The one that is needed on leg 18 inside ST-Link v2, it is not brought out.

The board is covered with a protective layer of lacquer, so before you solder the wires, apply tin to the soldering places, rubbing them slightly with the tip of a soldering iron. You will see when the contacts are cleared. Do not overheat the board, the tracks on it may come off. Do not use force to prevent damage to components.

Solder wires no more than 20 cm, otherwise the connection may not be.

When everything is connected. Run the program STM32 ST-LINK Utility.

Set the values in the circled fields as shown.

 

If you have soldered five wires with RESET, connect the programmer's USB cable to the computer and click the CONNECT icon indicated by the arrow ..

If four wires are soldered without RESET, like mine, hold the cable to the USB port of the computer, but do not plug in. Click the CONNECT icon, and immediately plug in the USB cable.

The program will display the firmware code of your controller.

Do not press the red icon of the eraser ERASE, otherwise you will erase the entire firmware of the controller.

Now that the program has read the code, click on the diskette icon and save the file with the name Firmware and the extension bin. Once again, save the file with the name original, in case you want to return the original firmware. Make sure that the path to the file contains only English names, or place it directly on the disk.

Do not close the program and do not disconnect the cable in order not to connect again.

Run as administrator of the application Speed2Increation, downloaded from this topic.

Specify the Firmware.bin file you created. Click Check, select S2 and set the speed. Click Patch. Now the firmware is changed. It remains to download it back to the controller.

Close the Speed2Increase application.

Return to the STM32 ST-LINK Utility application, which is still open.

Click the first open file icon. And specify the Firmware.bin file that you changed. After, click the Program icon, as in the picture.

In the window that appears, we change nothing and click Start.

We are waiting for the download to finish.

If you are connected without a RESET wire, it will give an error at the end. Do not pay attention to her.

Now the controller is reprogrammed. Unsolder the wires and collect your Ninebot. Reasonably tighten the screws.

Well, go ahead, experience new sensations of freedom!

Edited November 29, 2018 by IhKa

[GMOne]

Well done @IhKa! Thanks for your alternative step by step guide. A mistyping error about my program name (the people will understand anyway), but nothing crucial.

Thanks!

 

GMOne

 

P.S. Please remember to donate some coffee... ?

Edited October 25, 2018 by GMOne

[IhKa]

Probably the name was distorted when translating. Sorry not watched. I was glad to make my participation.

[Kris Vo]

Hello to all!

first of all, GMOne, Ihka, MRN76, and everyone who support this kind of work!

my name is Kris, live in Bruges Belgium and Will also do the mod very soon so I can help others!

For the moment I have 1 question: my S2 I didn't update yet to the lastest firmware, sometimes manufactures block mods in new firmware updates. I'm now @ 1.0.7 what should I do? Update to the new firmware with my app On my phone? And wich one Will that be?

thx a lot in advance!

Kris

[GMOne]

13 hours ago, Kris Vo said:

Hello to all!

first of all, GMOne, Ihka, MRN76, and everyone who support this kind of work!

my name is Kris, live in Bruges Belgium and Will also do the mod very soon so I can help others!

For the moment I have 1 question: my S2 I didn't update yet to the lastest firmware, sometimes manufactures block mods in new firmware updates. I'm now @ 1.0.7 what should I do? Update to the new firmware with my app On my phone? And wich one Will that be?

thx a lot in advance!

Kris

Hi @Kris Vo!

Don't worry, it doesn't care... ?

My program supports 1.0.7 also, you will see it when you click on "Check".

If it's not supported the patch button will be kept disabled.

So feel free to do whatever you want.

Keep in mind that if you upgrade AFTER  the mod you will lose it. 

Out of curiosity I am on (modded) 1.0.8.

Happy modding! ?

GMOne

 

[Kris Vo]

21 hours ago, GMOne said:

Hi @Kris Vo!

Don't worry, it doesn't care... ?

My program supports 1.0.7 also, you will see it when you click on "Check".

If it's not supported the patch button will be kept disabled.

So feel free to do whatever you want.

Keep in mind that if you upgrade AFTER  the mod you will lose it. 

Out of curiosity I am on (modded) 1.0.8.

Happy modding! ?

GMOne

 

Ok! Thx GMOne for your quick answer!

I will backup first the old 1.0.7, then upgrade tot the latest to become the better prefromances, then mod ?

[waren168]

hi GMone ,can you dev  edit  any serial number program  for ninebot.bin

[capoccio1]

Help !!!!! I can not read the chip, can you give me some advice?
Is the soft j-link I downloaded (4.20a) the right one? can you give me a link to try another soft?
Thank you.

[capoccio1]

Fixed, it was a j-link interface problem.
It works with the additional card inserted directly to the programmer (do not use the flat supplied) and inserting the jumper into the JP2 pin1-2 connector as shown in the photo.

[capoccio1]

Reassembled everything, now I just have to try ...

 

Edited November 1, 2018 by capoccio1

[GMOne]

Good! Do not forget to give some coffee to your national friend... ?

 

GMOne

[capoccio1]

Doppio caffè pagato

[capoccio1]

Sorry GMOne, this morning I got to try the wheel and I realized that as I reach the speed of 24km/h starts to beep very quickly different from before, as if he wanted to go in allarle is normal?
I did not allow myself to push any further for fear of a reaction, what would you advise me to do?

[GMOne]

Thanks for coffees...

Was the wheel fully charged? Are you 100Kg or something like this? Was the road slope quite significant?

[capoccio1]

On 7/12/2018 at 2:10 AM, GMOne said:

none of this, my weight is 64kg, the flat road and the battery 90%, this morning I got to try it again, as I reach the speed of 24km / h starts to beep without me getting up the platforms like he did before.
Tell me if it's normal or not, does your change require you to still give them a 24km / h or not?

 

[GMOne]

Very strange. TBH I suspect some kind of "malfunction" to your motor, it seems it drains more current than normal. It seems that you prematurely reach the current limit. It's the first time I meet this behaviour, and it does not depend on the firmware itself. 

Is it the behaviour changed from original one? I mean about tiltback for example...

[capoccio1]

no the behavior remained the same as the original, the tiltback remained the same.
Do I try to reload the original firmware?
Please can you contact me by email that I'm not too good with English, I tried to contact you but you did not answer me.

[GMOne]

I'm sorry but so many people write to me daily, it's difficult to support everyone.

I'll try to do it, of course in Italian.

GMOne

[IhKa]

capoccio1 it looks like you have one weak battery. With a heavy load, Nineboot switches to single-battery mode.

Did you connect everything correctly during the assembly?

Edited November 6, 2018 by IhKa

[capoccio1]

On 7/12/2018 at 2:10 AM, GMOne said:

I had the same doubt, I double checked the wiring and the connections are all ok. Only doubt is having the batteries reversed, but I do not think they can affect the problem.

 

[capoccio1]

On 7/12/2018 at 2:10 AM, GMOne said:

the two batteries are monitored like this

 

 

[IhKa]

Arrows are drawn on the controller board. They indicate where to route the thick wires of the batteries. Thin wires to the side where they are soldered.

Make a screenshot of each battery is necessary when driving uphill. If there is any weak element, the difference will be visible under load.

Now on your pictures one battery is disconnected, there is no current.

Edited November 6, 2018 by IhKa

[capoccio1]

Disconnected ???  it is not possible I have double-checked it well, then some element is broken or the card does not handle it anymore. All this after the update because proma worked all regularly.
Tomorrow I try to reinstall the original firmware and check if everything is normal.