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New Gotway ACM shell


Electroman
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Hi there.

So the 67v ACM 840Wh went away down a long escalator and stood no chance to be fast enough after it, bounced around hard on the way down and in need of a new shell sooner rather than later.

Wanted a new wheel some time now and sweet on the new wheels but well a Tesla or Maybe better yet Teslarized ACM but economy will not allow it atm, in fact atm economy will not even really allow me to get a new shell here in the EU fast cause of the cost here and imho it is high for what it is, a formed sheet of plastics? I know about cordless tools where quality is higher looking at the molds and while less amount of plastics involved can be had for a much lesser amount of $. If only handles and some small bits where crashed I could live with it but screw anchor ponits at apposing sides to locki screws feels tricky to fix, can do it but must be stable and able to take small hits so? But if anyone got ideas how to deal with them specifically and make it strong enough?

But I cannot affect that so want to ask where other EU guys on here where they get their spare shells in the the EU (or if cheap enough to justify the customs outside too), fast and a decent price? Must not even be new if a used one is on offer at some shop somewhere but shipping speed might be an issue and no spare wheel so rather not wait more than a couple weeks max cause need it to work.

So if any ideas or can point me in right direction I would be very grateful, thanks.

Edited by Electroman
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3 hours ago, esaj said:

ABS plastic can be "welded" with acetone (the plastic will dissolve in acetone and then harden again once it evaporates). Most hardware stores should carry the stuff with high enough purity (usually >99%) and it costs maybe a few euros per liter (<10€ per liter at least, and you wouldn't need but a small bottle).

http://www.biltema.fi/sv-fi/Bygg/Farg-och-Fog/Rengoring/Aceton-2000030019/

Thanks appreciate the info a lot, good tip and will try on my old shell later.

Bought a new one but no reason not to try to fix the old one as spare should accidents occur again.

 

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6 minutes ago, Electroman said:

Thanks appreciate the info a lot, good tip and will try on my old shell later.

Bought a new one but no reason not to try to fix the old one as spare should accidents occur again.

No problem, I've used it before to fix stripped plastic threads for screws... if you have a couple of Lego-blocks lying around, try first with those to see how it works, they're also pure ABS plastic, as at least most wheel shells. I'd suggest to do this in a well ventilated area, the stuff isn't exactly toxic (unless you drink it), but don't let it get into your eyes, and it can make you light headed or nauseous if you inhale the vapors. Also it will dry out your skin if you get in contact and can ignite easily (don't smoke when working with it ;)), but otherwise it's a relatively safe chemical.

http://www.labchem.com/tools/msds/msds/LC10420.pdf

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/27/2018 at 9:26 PM, esaj said:

No problem, I've used it before to fix stripped plastic threads for screws... if you have a couple of Lego-blocks lying around, try first with those to see how it works, they're also pure ABS plastic, as at least most wheel shells. I'd suggest to do this in a well ventilated area, the stuff isn't exactly toxic (unless you drink it), but don't let it get into your eyes, and it can make you light headed or nauseous if you inhale the vapors. Also it will dry out your skin if you get in contact and can ignite easily (don't smoke when working with it ;)), but otherwise it's a relatively safe chemical.

http://www.labchem.com/tools/msds/msds/LC10420.pdf

Took home Acetone from work but do not say strength, only available info is Density 0.79 but I'll look around for Nitor Acetone and se what I can find about this 1 liter bottle? Finding goo ABS to use at home though was harder than I first though, lot's of different PET but don't want to dissolve in the Acetone, found a small bit that started dissolving in a glass jar and will give it some time to put on bits and make it stronger but on ACM shell it most def seams to work so far.

Thanks Esa, good info indeed.

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22 hours ago, Electroman said:

Took home Acetone from work but do not say strength, only available info is Density 0.79 but I'll look around for Nitor Acetone and se what I can find about this 1 liter bottle? Finding goo ABS to use at home though was harder than I first though, lot's of different PET but don't want to dissolve in the Acetone, found a small bit that started dissolving in a glass jar and will give it some time to put on bits and make it stronger but on ACM shell it most def seams to work so far.

Thanks Esa, good info indeed.

Btw, you could just go to the closest Biltema and get the >99% purity stuff for a few euros/60 kronor:

https://www.biltema.se/bygg/farg/rengoringsmedel/aceton-2000030019

Lego-blocks are pure ABS. ABS is also sold as filament for 3D-printers.

Edited by esaj
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30 minutes ago, esaj said:

Btw, you could just go to the closest Biltema and get the >99% purity stuff for a few euros/60 kronor:

https://www.biltema.se/bygg/farg/rengoringsmedel/aceton-2000030019

Lego-blocks are pure ABS. ABS is also sold as filament for 3D-printers.

Yeah, but was some time ago I had a big bag of Lego laying around to play with, although it's good info should I run into some friend who's kid is playing with Lego, I will trick him out and steal a few pieces when no one is looking! ?

But on a serious note, yeah I should be able to find some more, just did not have a lot of access at home that's all, amazing how little plastics in my hone nowadays that actually consist of ABS I used to think it's real common or did something change last decade or so, or just me? Either way I did find some small piece after lot's of looking around even running here with a swap of Acetone applying it to all things plastics looking for a reaction, soon as it started to bleed of black plastics on the swap I knew I found it.

Yeah thanks, if I need more I will go by and pick some cheapo Acetone up but I had a liter so should be good for a while, I Google and found this about the Acetone I have: https://bolist.se/media/page_attachments/NITOR_ACETON_clp.pdf

Should def be good seams like clean stuff, or am I missing something?

This was interesting for sure. the screw anchor points on the ACM halves cannot be fortified by building up plastics around them cause if I do that one one half of the case it will not fit into the other one, kind of hard to explain what I mean in English but real simple, however even just swabbing 2 broken surfaces and pushing them together for a little while before letting go seam to make it stick and touching it a few minutes later and looks like quite solid. Obviously I have yet to apply real force and test the strength of the joint  but to my grip it feels quite strong so far, strong enough to take a hit once on the ACM I have no clue yet?  Whether this work perfectly or not for anchor points where screw is tapping down to hold the pieces together time will tell, it will work for cracks around handle though no doubt and hopefully everywhere, otherwise I will use problem solution and find any of what must surely by a hundred different ways of unifying the halves with proper strength if one just use the brain.

I learned something new and appreciate Esaj, perhaps I look in those darn 3d printer too now

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Electroman said:

Yeah, but was some time ago I had a big bag of Lego laying around to play with, although it's good info should I run into some friend who's kid is playing with Lego, I will trick him out and steal a few pieces when no one is looking! ?

But on a serious note, yeah I should be able to find some more, just did not have a lot of access at home that's all, amazing how little plastics in my hone nowadays that actually consist of ABS I used to think it's real common or did something change last decade or so, or just me? Either way I did find some small piece after lot's of looking around even running here with a swap of Acetone applying it to all things plastics looking for a reaction, soon as it started to bleed of black plastics on the swap I knew I found it.

Yeah thanks, if I need more I will go by and pick some cheapo Acetone up but I had a liter so should be good for a while, I Google and found this about the Acetone I have: https://bolist.se/media/page_attachments/NITOR_ACETON_clp.pdf

Should def be good seams like clean stuff, or am I missing something?

I can't read Swedish :P And don't know much anything about chemistry, just that acetone dissolves some plastics (not just ABS). If it dissolves the plastic and evaporates quite easily away, then it should work just fine

 

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16 minutes ago, esaj said:

I can't read Swedish :P And don't know much anything about chemistry, just that acetone dissolves some plastics (not just ABS). If it dissolves the plastic and evaporates quite easily away, then it should work just fine

 

Ohh sorry Esa, my bad did not even think about that hahaha..

Anyway it says on page 2 (3.1) Substances, purity 100% which I was in doubt about cause should be 99.something right?

Maybe they rounded up hahaha

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37 minutes ago, esaj said:

I can't read Swedish :P And don't know much anything about chemistry, just that acetone dissolves some plastics (not just ABS). If it dissolves the plastic and evaporates quite easily away, then it should work just fine

 

Yes, and Xylol is another product that dissolves plastic as well. The trick is the grind up the plastic in one of those cheapo coffee grinders with the fixed blender type blade. Then the acetone or whatever you use will do a better job. You will want to apply it when it reaches an oatmeal or cream of wheat consistency. The bond is molecular, so it also holds much better than glue or epoxy fixes. Paint the application area with the acetone solution to help it bond better.

Edited by Stan Onymous
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9 minutes ago, Stan Onymous said:

Yes, and Xylol is another product that dissolves plastic as well. The trick is the grind up the plastic in one of those cheapo coffee grinders with the fixed blender type blade. Then the acetone or whatever you use will do a better job. You will want to apply it when it reaches an oatmeal or cream of wheat consistency. The bond is molecular, so it also holds much better than glue or epoxy fixes. Paint the application area with the acetone solution to help it bond better.

Thanks, good info I made a glue yesterday but took slightly too large pieces so took until today before they dissolved and the goo like you describe it.

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