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24 km/h controller mod success (kinda so far)

Jay Barnett

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Success! (Almost) finally for my little upgrade project.
First a quick recap. I had a chinese direct generic 550watt EUC with usual 18km/hr top speed, standard pedal rising and annoying beeps.. but a good performer.
Been the hacking geek and not satisfied with the speed I ordered a 30 km/h microworks built mcm control board (30BS), with bluetooth. It looked quite different from my original board (which had no bluetooth). Sadly it wouldnt ride, after many combos of hall sensors and power leads I gave up and went back to my original board, but then while installing some LED lights I shorted out the board and was left with no ride!
So then my choice was to buy one of the generic 18km/h boards available (18B) or try the 24 km/h microworks board that looked almost identical to my old board. I decided for the price ($50 NZD incl shipping) it was worth the gamble for higher top speed.
So it arrived today just one week later, in a very small cardboard box with almost no packaging, and i hooked it up using standard red yellow green blue black for hall sensors and yellow green blue for the power wires.. no go.. violent acceleration and calibration wouldnt engage using the two calibration wires. Big sigh and decided to keep trying combinations, did all hall sensor combos (6) and then decided to swap green and blue wires on power leads and hall sensors.. bingo! These seem to be the two wires that are most commonly swapped in different manufacturers. this time however i also needed to swap the hall sensors green and blue also. With the 30BS controller it was swap green and blue power and leave hall sensors as per spec. So even with different controllers from the same manufacturer then wiring is different, even though they send you the same wiring manual for each and tell you that the 24B and the 18B model wiring is the same.. um.. its not!
Ok so whats strange so far is that the calibration doesnt work. I cant get it to calibrate as per manual. IE the wheel doesnt spin and then give a long beep to confirm successful calibration. It just pauses and then beeps saying calibration didnt happen. But it rides quite well so far.
Odd thing is that, well its night time now and I didnt have a bike helmet handy so I wasnt willing to push it too fast, so tomorrow I will have a ride in daylight with helmet on and phone gps to test the speed. Because in my test ride I wasnt able to get the pedal to rise and I seemed to be going about 20km/h, and wasnt prepared to risk any faster without knowing what was going to happen, because it seems that when I hit approx 20km/h it tilted slightly forwards rather than backwards! this was quite disconcerting! maybe im imagining it because im used to obvious tilt back from my old controller or maybe it is not behaving correctly.. but im happy that its ridable and definitely way faster than original model.. im just curious to see if there is any top speed because holding the wheel off the ground and tilting it forward it accelerates, starts beeping at a certain angle but never cuts out no matter how far i lean forward.. this is weird also.
So sorry this is so long, I just figured Id save having to answer a whole bunch of questions and just give as much detail as possible.
If I can get it to calibrate i`ll feel a lot safer about testing its top speed.
But im pretty excited to have it running this well with tons of torque!
In the pics is original blown controller on the right and new one on the left. They look identical more or less. Interestingly this controller is sold for a 16 inch wheel but my wheel is 14 inch. Guys on russian forum said thats not a problem and they have used 16 inch controllers on 14 inch wheels.
Im wondering if I should keep trying hall sensor and power cable combinations in case I still dont actually have the correct configuration for the controller to engage calibration?
Other pic is the 30BS board that didnt work.




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Hi Jay,

I'm looking for some speed improvements too and followed your thread about the 30B controller, so I'm really looking forward for you further testing this 24kmh controller which also seems to be available for a reasonable price.

My assumption would be that the tilt in the wrong direction is a false impression as it would imply wrong programming, the controller seems to know the right sensor data
if it working for riding.

What I would assume with 16/14 inch difference is that as the controller can know the speed only by rotations of the wheel that a rotation of a 16 inch wheel means a further distance so higher speed per rotations, so the 14 inch wheel should go slower as it's speed is slower at the same rotations per second.

Can you do a GPS or bicycle computer speed test to see what the real speed is, I found on one page were the controller is sold that it should lift peddals already at above 15 kmh which your installation does not seem to.

Can you provide a link to were you bought your controller?



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Another thoughts I had for the 30kmh controller is that in this link: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/controller-for-electric-unicycle-with-bluetooth_60244443124.html?spm=a2700.7724838.35.1.fs4wjj
it shows another small pcb. Could it be that this is a board with the hall sensors? Did any of what you bought came with additional pcbs or just the controller?
What I read about hall sensors is that in the euc case I guess they should be analog for continous tilt tracking, so maybe the 30kmh controller is not working so
well as the analog signal from the installed sensor is different from what the controller is designed for.
Another guy having the same issue with the 30kmh controller can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Chv2Ajlv1W8

Anyway I'm having a noname china wheel with the same case look than yours so I'm curious about what you will find out.

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Ok, I've read two more things which didn't catched my eyes yet. First the motor wiring has the three power cables plus the five cables of the hall sensors (power, gnd, 3x signal from 3 sensors, on one picture they are placed each 120 degree), so these hall sensors are just for the wheel rotation speed and direction, right?.

The module I saw on the pictures of the above controller is the bluetooth module, so no magic here.

This means that the tilt angle for such controllers should be a chip directly on the controller board somewhere. Now I also understand the comment about choosing the right motor,
the hall sensors should be digital just informing about every spike on some tooth ring passing by, but the difference may be the distance between the teeth, though if disassembled this detail should be visible.

Still I can't find a good explanation for the 'too much tilt' problem.

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