Attention 3d printer owners......................

[davinche]

6 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Looking at matterhackers. It seems like the pla Pro made in usa is quite a bit more. I dont mind, IF its a quality product. Always good to support local as possible. Is there a specific nylon you could suggest? I'm thinking I'll have a need for parts that can withstand temps for use in hot cars or under hoods for cable mounts. Tpu seems handy for softer cases and such?  So many choices and so confusing. Im not really trying to spend more than $150 for basic starter filament. I mean hell, theres also a good chance I'll never get the damn thing figured out.

For temperature, it depends on how hot. If it's just inside a car, PETG / ABS are good, but people seem to be moving away from ABS to PETG due to easy of print and less/no smell.

 

Nylon is really hard to print because:
1) You have to print at a much higher temperature
2) It's really prone to moisture/humidity. I have to keep my Nylon filaments in a "drybox (box with sillica)" while printing to keep the filament from absorbing too much moisture in the air.

[.....]

Ive got jugs of reuseable silica laying around, so keeping something dry BEFORE being printed, shouldnt be an issue. Of course, I live in high humidity, so it will not be all that dry during printing. Maybe I can force the room down to 45-50% during the process. Interesting about the Petg about the smell. I'm hoping the PLA will be easy enough that I can get something to work, by the time i burn a kg of it($45). Theres a pull starter that I fancy being able to make pieces for. It is on a 2 stroke engine that virbrates like crazy and may see some high temperatures. Its somewhat imperative that it doesnt break, or bits would fly into a fan and wreak havok. I wonder which material for that? I was assuming nylon, but i dont know shit and it would be EVERY expensive to get it wrong. For starters tho, I think I'll make a cupholder for the old civic, it seems they didnt know what size a typical cup was in the early 90's.

Edited June 15, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[RockyTop]

I don't think that the silica is going to do it. You can convert a food dehydrator into a dryer and even print out of it. They make actual filament dryers. Last time I checked they were a bit high in price.  I have a room dehumidifier for PLA  when the  humidity gets too high. It would not work for nylon. I don't have a brand choice for nylon. You can even use weed eater cord in a pinch. 

As a test, I printed a few things out of PLA pro and placed them in my white van and my wife's red truck almost two years ago. They have survived so far. I don't think that they would survive in a smaller red car of anything closer to black. 

Edited June 15, 2020 by RockyTop

[mike_bike_kite]

Another question. Are there any moderately cheap 3D printers that can print in wax? One of my kids designs jewelry and could use the wax model as a cast for the metal.

[RockyTop]

15 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Looking at matterhackers. It seems like the pla Pro made in usa is quite a bit more. I dont mind,

I have not tried matterhackers. I am sure that it Is good stuff.
 I did try US made FilaCube. I am sure that the FilaCube is quality stuff too. I liked the very hard rubber feel to it. I believe that it is stronger.  My problem with it is that a finished print melts at a much lower temp. ( 20-30c lower) Not good! 

[AlaskanAlain]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495200

[.....]

I wound up snagging a roll of esun petg and esun nylon for shits and giggles. After looking around a bit, it seems there are 100's of types and it must be one of those things that as you need something in particular, you buy a roll for it. After long enough of buying rolls, you wind up with choices. I honestly have no big projects in mind atm, but I can tell I will be trying 100's of random things that will be 99% fail for use, but 100% win for learning.  I've got the basic concept of humidity control, so the nylon should help me see if I'm figuring it out. Seems like some materials are WAY finicky? I havent even begun to browse thingyuniverse, as the wait for my printer is already becoming unbearable. It isnt like I need MORE reasons to want one. I'd really love a cover/case for my android that is euc dedicated. With luck, that idea will only take 2 years and $300 worth of filament...

[RockyTop]

12 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I wound up snagging a roll of esun petg and esun nylon for shits and giggles. After looking around a bit, it seems there are 100's of types and it must be one of those things that as you need something in particular, you buy a roll for it. After long enough of buying rolls, you wind up with choices. I honestly have no big projects in mind atm, but I can tell I will be trying 100's of random things that will be 99% fail for use, but 100% win for learning.  I've got the basic concept of humidity control, so the nylon should help me see if I'm figuring it out. Seems like some materials are WAY finicky? I havent even begun to browse thingyuniverse, as the wait for my printer is already becoming unbearable. It isnt like I need MORE reasons to want one. I'd really love a cover/case for my android that is euc dedicated. With luck, that idea will only take 2 years and $300 worth of filament...

Keep us informed of your trials. You have a good attitude about it. There are always new things to learn. Most people get some good results and take it as a win. They don’t tend to explore any further because of the failures.
 

Designing for a 3D printer takes a whole new way of thinking. Additive building is different than subtractive. - You can print the ship in the bottle. - That is not very easy with subtractive building. ( carving a block) 

[.....]

It took a couple days to get the hang of printing petg. I was having stringing issues. I made the mistake of using the textured side of the glass at first. After a few prints, i managed to take a chunk of glass out from too much adhesion. Now Im printing flat glass and using razor blades. With the right high temps, Im having great bed adhesion with nothing but a clean piece of glass. Im using rubbing alcohol at 90% and it seems to have a lower flash point than the heat bed (tis a good thing). The petg actually comes loose very easily, once the bed has cooled from 85degrees.  So far its been lots of small bullshit, as I am amazed at how long this stuff takes. I don't want to try and tackle a 6 day print until I KNOW what I'm doing. I definitely see the need for backup power supplies (battery). I tried the resume print function, by hitting the power brick while in print. Um... that didnt work out, not even close.  I havent printed anything of much use, but i did print 8 tiny covid keychains my wife gave away at work. Such an addictive thing, being able to create something from a roll of plastic and an idea. I began with creality's striped down version of cura, but have moved on to ulitmaker cura full version. So handy to be able to store profiles. I can definitely see how this is so finicky, a profile will be a life saver. For now I'm printing with petg, as its the big roll  I've got, and its PURPLE!! Like a kid in a candy store, I ordered near a dozen rolls of esun pla+ in all kinds of colors. I did snag a trio of metal looking fila in pla, of some different brand. I can see how it wont be long at all, before I have as much in filament as the printer. I can totally understand how people have multiple printers. I would gather that having smaller dedicated machines would pay for itself in time savings alone. I havent tried the nylon yet, don't know how to keep dry while printing. Any suggestion for affordable dry boxes @RockyTop? My nylon is in a vacuum bag with tons of dessicate atm, hasnt been opened for weeks.

I'm tempted to print an euc stand, but it looks like its going to take an entire 1-2.5lbs of filament. I assume petg would be better for something like this, but maybe wait for the pla+? I could try with nylon, but its pricey and maybe too flexible. Whats stopping me from giving it a go, is that its going to take 1day 13hrs to attempt an euc stand print at low quality, and thats with ONLY 20%infill. If i up the infill to 100%, its going to take over 3 days to print. I dont trust the power here, nor my finesse, to try that already. I wish I KNEW which material and how much infill it would take to hold my 18L on a stand. 

Anyhow, the 3d printer is definitely techy nerd fun. I've already wasted 3 days of my life on trinkets I could have purchased for $4 total. Still, its a rewarding thing, and as I learn fusion 360, I'm sure Ill find useful things to create over time.  Anyhow, back to trying to figure out all this calibration stuff. So far its mostly been trial/error, but I'm starting to understand some of the relationship between speeds and heat and thickness. Being able to print from computer OR the sdcard, is nice. Longer prints are sd card, so I dont need worry about the computer. I am looking into the rasperry Pi mods, but it is quite honestly, very overwhelming to even grasp wtf it does. 

fwiw, bed leveling with a sheet of paper is simple as can be. I make sure to keep the paper under the nozzle so Im less likely to scratch glass, IF im too high as I sweep the head. The glass seems pretty flat. Its also pretty easy to just randomly check the level with the paper in lots of positions in mere moments. I can say that its not really going to be any big deal to level it regularly. Maybe I'll look at getting a bl touch, but atm I see no real point to it.

Edited July 20, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[RockyTop]

Dry box- I cheap system starts with a food dehydrator. You can cut out the bottoms of the shelves or just get a plastic box and cut a circle in the bottom to fit on the base of the food dehydrator. 

Learning Fusion 360- This guy starts easy and make you do things the right way. Once you learn and understand you can do things however you like but you have a great foundation. He is a great guy and loves to teach difficult things. ( He is a high school teacher)

 

[RockyTop]

When making things stronger, infill percentage is not always the way to go. Unless a part is less than 2 inches square in size or less than 3mm thick you are not going to get stronger after 80% infill. 100% infill can actually make it  weaker. In most cases thicker walls are better at making things stronger.  With eSun PLA + a  1.6mm wall and 30% infill should be plenty strong for an EUC stand.  The eSun plus is probably stronger than you realize.  The PLA+ downfall is direct sunlight.  With that in mind a cheap PLA is not even good enough to make a potato chip clip. It distorts in just a few week with pressure on it. 

YouTuber  CNC kitchen does a lot of testing to see what is actually stronger.  You might want to watch a few of his videos when you have some free time. 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg

[.....]

Been running my printer almost 24/7 since I got it. Finicky little things they are. I finally got the nerve to set it into a 12hr print job and burn a $20 roll of Kodak Petg.  I made an euc stand, but I still think my cheap wooden are better. This little stand is going to stay under my mten, until I can design a proper stand that supports the tire while in use. Im learning a little bit about autodesk360, but its a pretty deep program. Much different than the old days on a drafting table. I now have more invested in damn plastic than I do the printer itself. I must admit, the Kodak filaments are working out MUCH better than the esun. Im using a LOT of petg as pla is just so damn brittle. Pla is much faster and easier to work with with less stringing, but petg seems much more stable. I am a color fanatic now, I love chasing colors! My latest design is a simple gopro case for my hero3. It only took 13 prints to get it JUST RIGHT. I'm somewhat ocd and it seems like the printer caters to that.

I have an e3d extruder, but am already wondering if there should be an upgrade coming asap? I cant hardly print nylon as my printer doesnt like the hotter side of 250 degrees. I'm also hearing odd creaks and grinding filament when I run my .8 nozzle at faster speeds. Perhaps a volcano hot end should be on my list? Seems like most of these parts arent very expensive, so Im just wondering where is the best place to put the meager dollars. Im running a creality cr10 v3 at the moment. I can say that quality nozzles make a HUGE difference! Once my ups arrives, I'll be more confident in running longer jobs. Of course, the grinding doesnt make me too secure in it, but I do know that plastic collection will shrink VERY fast.

 

Edited August 13, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[RockyTop]

WOW!! ..  Jumped in with both feet!   You have two more rolls of filament on your shelf than I do right now. ( The difference is that I am getting Extremely low and need to order more...... and I only have 3 colors.) If you need more frustration working with a new filament, the Hatchbox wood filament is pretty interesting. It prints fairly nice but tends to clog the nozzle more than most. I recommend using .06 or bigger. Also you might need to use hair spray on a smooth glass bed. The textured side of the glass is better for wood. 

My first printer ran for 4 months straight. I would get up in the middle of the night to restart the stupid thing. 

I am impressed with your exploration. Looking good. You might want to experiment with temperatures. Most people go to hot. Going hot solves some problem and creates others.

Fusion 360 is deep but it is worth it. You can empty your head of all those designs you have been thinking about. 
 

[.....]

1 hour ago, RockyTop said:

WOW!! ..  Jumped in with both feet!   You have two more rolls of filament on your shelf than I do right now. ( The difference is that I am getting Extremely low and need to order more...... and I only have 3 colors.) If you need more frustration working with a new filament, the Hatchbox wood filament is pretty interesting. It prints fairly nice but tends to clog the nozzle more than most. I recommend using .06 or bigger. Also you might need to use hair spray on a smooth glass bed. The textured side of the glass is better for wood. 

My first printer ran for 4 months straight. I would get up in the middle of the night to restart the stupid thing. 

I am impressed with your exploration. Looking good. You might want to experiment with temperatures. Most people go to hot. Going hot solves some problem and creates others.

Fusion 360 is deep but it is worth it. You can empty your head of all those designs you have been thinking about. 
 

I tend to get carried away with things and then move on to the next. Funny you mention, as I just got 4 rolls in today. A couple more nylons and another flavor of purple. Im still waiting on 6 short rolls of pla metallic. Im definitely diggin how much easier the quality mirco swiss nozzlesare. I did suffer a clog and used a torch. It worked, but I'd imagine any plating on that thing is long gone, along with how they hardened it. Prints good still tho. Im noticing that higher temps aids in layer adhesion, but it also makes supports impossible and effects bridging. Lower temps are great, but its a fine line between great and no adhesion. Im also working with fan speeds/use, as it helps a lot in support. My biggest problem is that the temps of petg and nylon are at the top of limits for mine. When I run the fan at all or run a .8 nozzle, I get heat creep or the heater just cant keep up. My extruder begins to tear up filament and its a done deal. Add that my power cycles sometimes, its hit/miss and the ups should really help. I did manage to figure out how to incorporate color changes by layer and modify a little gcode. It was surprisingly easy, you just have to get the feel for how your extruder primes new colors and get a process in order. I'd imagine I'll need another printer or some upgrades to this one, to keep up with the speeds and temps of nylons. A clear booth could be made for it, to keep temps from dropping? I think the nylon curls up because its cooling too quickly and the newest layers are laying on a shrunken form, thus making it worse? I used the textured side of that bed and tore glass out of it. Adhesion on the smooth side is perfect with petg (i use it a lot), no brims. Pla likes to have glue stick under it, OR brimming. The nylon sticks to the glue with wide brims, but even those dont always hold my corners down. Its odd to watch the part curl up and TEAR away from the brims, so I dont think its an actual adhesion problem, rather a shrink issue. Any advice is great to have!

I am right now, playing in AD360 and watching the video links you gave me. Hes a great teacher, but Im having to go back over everything and pause it a bit from time to time. I think my drafting days of 20+ yrs ago, are gone. I'd imagine a beer took that skill many years ago. Anyhow, its back to vids, as I need to print a cylinder with lip for a rain gauge. Go figure, we buy a gauge and they use crap brittle plastic. I'd imagine my petg won't last forever, but if its 2-3hrs and $.50 to print, I can knock that out when need be. Thanks for the guidance, this is definitely a usefull time wasting hobby.

Edited August 13, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[RockyTop]

No doubt you already know more than 98% of the people that consider themselves good at printing. (Refining aside) 
Yes, you found the limit of what you can heat and cool at the same time. The next step is enclosures and water cooled heat syncs. I have enclosures but I just run slow enough and buy more printers.
If you do buy a second printer I would go with an ender 5 plus and upgrade it. I swore off buying another “shaky table printer” unless I am going to print small. The Prusa is great for small prints but the Prusa is like a bumblebee. It won’t fly is you tried to make a bigger version. That said it rules the smaller prints. 

Drafting Days!?  Ah the good ole times. Having to explain material costs and material conservation to the head engineers. Translating the intentions of the engineers to the guys in the shop an trying to keep them from killing the engineers. Keeping the sales guys from killing the engineers. Really I was a muse and a body guard to the engineers. No disrespect to the engineers Intended. I am finding doctors to be about the same in nature. 

[.....]

1 hour ago, RockyTop said:

No doubt you already know more than 98% of the people that consider themselves good at printing. (Refining aside) 
Yes, you found the limit of what you can heat and cool at the same time. The next step is enclosures and water cooled heat syncs. I have enclosures but I just run slow enough and buy more printers.
 

Saying things like this, cost me lotsa money. I think its my lack of patience and desire to burn nylon, that is starting to take me into the realm of heavier duty printers. I only run into problems when I push that plastic thru the .8 at greater speeds. I would suspect my next move would be to quit pushing it and buy a more sturdy printer. Since this is just a hobby, I fear how the costs increase would be exponential. I'll tinker and tinker. My biggest concern is the nylon warping. I guess its a two fold problem. I cant burn it hot enough for good adhesion and I cant keep ambient temps up enough to prevent premature warp. Solution seems to be big heater, liquid cooling, insulated booth. I may need to sit and ponder a bit on how far I wanna go with this. Thanks much for the kind words and advice. I am noticing a shortage of sex toys on thingiverse. Perhaps I should create a brand. It sure would be nice if I could learn to design a cover for my lemfo watch...

Edited August 13, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[RockyTop]

LOL,    the ... ah .. sex toy thing was not favored for 3D printing. Not so much for the XXX part as creating a breeding ground for germs that the rough texture creates. ..... However with proper cleaning ( bucket of bleach water or sulfite gas) After use you should be OK.   That said you might have a whole new world of exploration. I don’t need to see your results. 

You can certainly spend money on printer upgrades. A smaller nozzle might make more sense. 
With many of the filaments a good enclosure is a must. You will have to revisit your temp settings. It is also a good idea to assume that the printer is going to put out a 6 inch flame for 5 minutes at any given time. Wooden enclosures and other flammables should be well away from the printer. For example. Printers in one room and packaging materials in an other. I even use steel tables and keep extra filament stores away from the printer. 

[.....]

1 minute ago, RockyTop said:

LOL,    the ... ah .. sex toy thing was not favored for 3D printing. Not so much for the XXX part as creating a breeding ground for germs that the rough texture creates. ..... However with proper cleaning ( bucket of bleach water or sulfite gas) After use you should be OK.   That said you might have a whole new world of exploration. I don’t need to see your results. 

You can certainly spend money on printer upgrades. A smaller nozzle might make more sense. 
With many of the filaments a good enclosure is a must. You will have to revisit your temp settings. It is also a good idea to assume that the printer is going to put out a 6 inch flame for 5 minutes at any given time. Wooden enclosures and other flammables should be well away from the printer. For example. Printers in one room and packaging materials in an other. I even use steel tables and keep extra filament stores away from the printer. 

Excellent safety advice. I was wondering how common a fire was. I'll put mine on concrete in the middle of nothing shortly. Would a clear lexan enclosure suffice, or is it also a fire hazard? I was merely j/k about the toys (kinda). I surely wouldnt want to design something intended for anything more than display. WOuld be fun to see the comments tho. I'm not a fan of the smaller nozzle idea, it goes against my inability to be patient. I do like the .2 for uber fine detail, but its miserably slow. As in 2-3 days for a 4" figurine slow. I think I'll be making more things of utility in nature. Fun stuff, but definitely limited in what it can and can't do. Giving away trinkets seems to be a glorious waste of colors.. fun fun

[RockyTop]

34 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Excellent safety advice. I was wondering how common a fire was. I'll put mine on concrete in the middle of nothing shortly. Would a clear lexan enclosure suffice, or is it also a fire hazard? I was merely j/k about the toys (kinda). I surely wouldnt want to design something intended for anything more than display. WOuld be fun to see the comments tho. I'm not a fan of the smaller nozzle idea, it goes against my inability to be patient. I do like the .2 for uber fine detail, but its miserably slow. As in 2-3 days for a 4" figurine slow. I think I'll be making more things of utility in nature. Fun stuff, but definitely limited in what it can and can't do. Giving away trinkets seems to be a glorious waste of colors.. fun fun

I have actually never used the 0.2 nozzle. I expect to at some point. It would work well for small one print hinges and alike. (Printed moving parts) 
Lexan 9600 is mostly fire resistant. It will burn but only over a constant flame. I like 1/2” Sheetrock on the sides and top with a Lexan door. 
A nice 16” liberal arts statue of masculinity for the dinning room table center peace might be nice for when the in-laws Or other not so welcome guests visit.  
 

[Willy510]

2 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Saying things like this, cost me lotsa money. I think its my lack of patience and desire to burn nylon, that is starting to take me into the realm of heavier duty printers. I only run into problems when I push that plastic thru the .8 at greater speeds. I would suspect my next move would be to quit pushing it and buy a more sturdy printer. Since this is just a hobby, I fear how the costs increase would be exponential. I'll tinker and tinker. My biggest concern is the nylon warping. I guess its a two fold problem. I cant burn it hot enough for good adhesion and I cant keep ambient temps up enough to prevent premature warp. Solution seems to be big heater, liquid cooling, insulated booth. I may need to sit and ponder a bit on how far I wanna go with this. Thanks much for the kind words and advice. I am noticing a shortage of sex toys on thingiverse. Perhaps I should create a brand. It sure would be nice if I could learn to design a cover for my lemfo watch...

Printing nylon successfully is an uphill battle for a printer like yours. You'll need to enclose it and pre-dry the filament even if new and if the parts is more than an hour print it's best to have the filament in a dry box that feed the printer.  

https://www.p3-d.com/  makes really nice coated and or hardened nozzles, Ive used them for a few years and they have all been great

Using Kisslicer as a slicer can help since its bridging far better than others 

If you want something a bit easier to print and has a lot of the same properties check out PC+ from SnoLabs.com

I do printing professionally at work with really expensive printers $180k each and have several at home that I designed and built for my own projects, largest being almost 2 meters tall. 

 

[.....]

You guys are awesome, thanks for so much advice and direction on the printing. Here's a hopefully simple question or two for the not so new printer guys...

How are you changing colors and flushing them out easily? I run the extruder a LOT to flush colors and sometimes pull the filament out and back into the extruder a few times to assist. Even so, I JUST got done printing a natural nylon test cube and the very last 2 layers of a 20mm 6gr cube, came up with a mean blue hue from the previous nylon print. SO odd that the print stayed clear/natural until the last layers. I swore I ran a CRAP TON thru it when I switched them.

Also.. how are you getting the filament off the very end of the nozzle, when you want to re-level the bed? I've tried pulling straight down, getting it hot and scrubbing the paper like hell. Every now and then, I get a bed thats too high, as I must have been feeling the drag of a tiny bit of leftover filament, instead of bare nozzle. I know, just simple stupid shit. Im sure you guys have devised a way to make it as easy/reliable as possible. Oddly, I find myself in a state of Zen, when Im leveling with paper, I quite enjoy it for some unknown reason. Probably still just mystified at the accuracy required in it all. I luvs me some micrometers!

Fwiw, Ive just been cranking the shit out of the temps to burn this nylon. It seems to be bonding pretty well at 260degrees. Im also certain that I'm within 10degrees of thermal runaway and am slowly melting my shroud. I honestly dont care, as long as i've the fire extinguisher handy. Its all chinese parts, Im sure they make more. Burn that bitch up, gives me more reason to install better parts.    One thing I KNOW, watching this thing print is putting me in a trance. I should have been born a raccoon, chasing around shiny objects...

Seems I was lied to about having an all metal hot end. After a few rounds of nylon and petg, I found a teflon tube melted against my nozzle. I now have a microswiss on order (so excited for USA quality) to take care of that nonsense. IN the mean time, Im melting pla+ just for shit and giggles. I did manage to get a cube of all my colors and some trays to hold them(pla on left, petg/nylon on the right). Along with euc stands, this printer is fun stuff.

@Willy510 Humidity makes a huge difference, especially on the clear one. I print a test cube of each wen I get it and then toss it in a dehumidifier for at least 8 hours or overnight. Im then placing it vaccum seal bags with silica and stocking it away. ALL my boxes have been treated this way. I also toss em in to dry a couple hours after printing. It seems the nylon is the worst, followed by petg and least affected is the pla stuff. Printing collars for my dehumidifier was the first thing i did when it arrived. You know, more excuses to melt plastic and all.

Edited August 16, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[RedSpectreNine]

On 4/28/2018 at 1:04 AM, The Fat Unicyclist said:

Dammit... Now I have to buy a 3D printer!   

If you find that you don't have space or can't afford a 3D printer, try researching if there is a Makerspace/Hackerspace in your area that has 3D printers. Also, offers an opportunity to encourage more people to ride. 

[davinche]

On 8/13/2020 at 8:18 PM, ShanesPlanet said:

Seems I was lied to about having an all metal hot end. After a few rounds of nylon and petg, I found a teflon tube melted against my nozzle.

Wait what? How does the teflon tube melt right against your nozzle? With the all-metal hotends, the teflon tube shouldn't even be close to the nozzle 🤔

[.....]

1 hour ago, davinche said:

Wait what? How does the teflon tube melt right against your nozzle? With the all-metal hotends, the teflon tube shouldn't even be close to the nozzle 🤔

THIS is exactly why I'm not so happy about being lied to. I preordered a v3 printer. The big reason I waited for so long was it had an 'upgrade' to the 'all metal hot end'. After printing a little bit around the 250C mark (not too hot, but its petg and nylon), i noticed retraction issues and clogs. I eventually tore it all apart and noticed it was NOT an all metal, just a typical teflon to nozzle. The teflon was either cut short from factory, or got melted to shit. I've fixed it and have been running lower pla+ since. Its AMAZING how much less stringing you have, when your hot end is working right. However, I own a fortune in petg and refuse to be limited to just pla+. I have a microswiss on the way to solve it. Anyhow, just another case of blatantly false advertising from another chinese company. No point in pointing the obvious out to them, as Im sure they know and just dont care.

Edited August 17, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[Willy510]

14 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

THIS is exactly why I'm not so happy about being lied to. I preordered a v3 printer. The big reason I waited for so long was it had an 'upgrade' to the 'all metal hot end'. After printing a little bit around the 250C mark (not too hot, but its petg and nylon), i noticed retraction issues and clogs. I eventually tore it all apart and noticed it was NOT an all metal, just a typical teflon to nozzle. The teflon was either cut short from factory, or got melted to shit. I've fixed it and have been running lower pla+ since. Its AMAZING how much less stringing you have, when your hot end is working right. However, I own a fortune in petg and refuse to be limited to just pla+. I have a microswiss on the way to solve it. Anyhow, just another case of blatantly false advertising from another chinese company. No point in pointing the obvious out to them, as Im sure they know and just dont care.

If you're running around 250C for PETG  you may want to look at running calibration for your hot end heater.  250C is usually way to hot for PETG but a pretty common error for those starting out in printing.  Do you have issues with stringing or rice crispy crackling sounds when printing or pausing a print?