Jump to content

Attention 3d printer owners......................


Recommended Posts

I just got one a few weeks ago.  I see there are quite a few EUC related items on Thingiverse.  Anyone give feedback on the stands or items available?  Don't want to waste hours printing a junk item ?.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 145
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I own a lulzbot mini 2. I can definitely say that it's a love hate relationship for me.  I like tinkering, but only so much. Currently 3D printing is still a long ways away from being consum

The Creality printers are a good place to start. Quality assembly control is not very good. It is a good idea to check for loose screws and set srews (grub screws) Key Notes: 1) Turn off the stup

If anyone need extender_plates for the small ACM pedals, used on Gotway Monster 1st and 2nd gen. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4429227

Posted Images

8 hours ago, Acturbo said:

I just got one a few weeks ago.  I see there are quite a few EUC related items on Thingiverse.  Anyone give feedback on the stands or items available?  Don't want to waste hours printing a junk item ?.

Duf is selling 3D printed EUC stands on his channel: 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, The Fat Unicyclist said:

Dammit... Now I have to buy a 3D printer!   :D

You wouldn't regret it.  Its both addicting fun and frustrating all at once.  ?

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, GoinPostal said:

Duf is selling 3D printed EUC stands on his channel: 

 

Yup that's one of the ones I was looking at.......................................

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2860951

Also life would not be complete without one of these if you are a ninebot owner lolol........................

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2573159

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Acturbo said:

Also life would not be complete without one of these if you are a ninebot owner lolol........................

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2573159

Just by 12 bags of cotton wool and a tube of super-glue... It would be quicker (and fluffier).

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...

I finally broke down and ordered a 3d printer. Finally the prices are getting reasonable. I foresee a TON of wasted time, money and plastic very soon! Since I'm late to the party, surely theres plenty of projects already being shared that I can use. I think the hardest part is going to be trying to learn how this design software works. Drafting to me, still requires a table, pencils and a few wooden tools. Another challenge surely awaits!

Link to post
Share on other sites

@Brand Don I personally don't own one, but have extensively used 3d printers at workshops and with friends. If you need a cheapo starter printer, the MonoPrice Select Mini cannot be beaten at $200 (make sure to follow the minor heating bed mods required though). If you're looking at a bit higher end, then (in my opinion), the unbeatable printer is the Prusa i3 MK3S (The Mini is also pretty sweet). From personal experience, I can say with certainty that Prusa is the leading edge manufacturer for 3d printers!

Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds like a challenge... I like challenges... a little. Thanks for the heads up, I'll be sure to keep my expectations low and be ready for LOTS of wasted time/filaments.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an Ender 3, CR10, and a Monoprice Select Mini (V1). I second that the monoprice is probably the best printer if you are not a tinkerer. The monoprice just kinda worked out of the box. The drawback is its small build volume.

The Ender3 (from Creality) is probably my most reliable printer now though. But that's after many MANY hours of tweaking and learning. This ranged from simple things like making sure all of the screws are on tight and everything is aligned properly, to printing/buying tons of mods for the printer (Google "Petsfang" for the fan duct that I am now using, the BLTouch for auto bed leveling, an E3D V6 hotend, E3D titan extruder).

All of the points by @RockyTop are great. One thing though: auto bed leveling (ABL) is amazing, and almost mandatory if your 3D printer does not come with an entirely flat surface (eg: the chinese printers). Creality I think has gotten better, but ABL is still useful due to the fact that heating up your build plate does cause some small changes to its shape.

One tip on ABL: everyone online just tells you to run ABL before every print. This is **NOT** necessary and a waste of time IMO. Just like how it's unnecessary to calibrate your EUC every time you want to go for a ride, unless you're messing around with your manual bed leveling you only have to run ABL maybe once every couple of months.

 

Edit: OPs original question lol. EUC guy made a stand and the STL is available on thingiverse. I've printed one (PETG), and it worked pretty well for my V8 / ex-Nikola. For my 16x, the wheel is wider so EUC guys stand won't really be a good fit. I'm just using the foam with the 16x as the stand until I design or find one that does fit.
 

Regarding Mudguards: don't have any experience with those, but I think there is one on thingiverse that is basically the 3D printed version of the polycarbonate stand / mudguard that ewheels is selling (or giving?) for the MSX/MSPs. I believe that is the most requested mudguard for 3d printing?

Links:
EUC Guys Stand: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2733885

MSX/MSP Mud Guard: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230675

Edited by davinche
To actually answer OPs question...
Link to post
Share on other sites

@davinche  I have not had any luck with the BLtouch. I can level the bed and then take a picture of the numbers. level it again and the numbers are off as much as 0.02mm. I have tried this on four machines with the same results. I only print on 4mm + thick glass so surface warping does not seem to be a problem. I can see how it would be a problem on other surfaces. My BL touch is only used to set 0 before the print starts and can't even get that right on two of my machines. I have to adjust on the fly at least 0.010mm every time. The range on one machine is -0.210 to -0.250 for the first layer. I would rather have a micro switch. The two machines that I have with a micro switches work so much better. Set it and forget it. 

Edited by RockyTop
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey @RockyTop. Is yours a creality printer? One thing that you do have to make sure when using an ABL is to make sure your gantry is leveled. The easiest way i've found to check leveling of the gantry is to manually turn the coupler until the rail is near the top of the printer. Then use a measuring tape or a ruler to measure how far the rail is from the top of the printer. These should be exactly the same (or damn near close to same).

Untitled.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Once it is gantry is leveled, one other thing you could turn on (will have to be on the firmware level) is "probe accuracy testing". Turning this on in the firmware enables the M48 gcode. The BLTouch should have excellent accuracy.

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M048.html

One final note is that... be sure you're using a genuine BLTouch and not the clones from China. I've tested a "3DTouch" and the "TLTouch" - they work well enough, but an M48 shows that a BLTouch is just so much better.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use an Ender3 at school for various STEM projects with kids - I have found that print settings are a big factor in print success - make sure your bed is properly levelled by placing a sheet of paper on the bed and moving the extruder through all corners to check level/distance, always print with a brim, don't make the layers too thin/thick, use higher infill % even if it means longer print times. Each printer has its own sweet spot settings wise - if you need to convert an STL (sketchup,tinkercad,thingverse,etc) to gcode file, you can use https://www.3dprinteros.com/

NB -  3d printed objects will delam under even limited stress so beware relying on anything 3dprinted that would compromise your safety on failure. 3d printed plastic is much weaker than injection moulded plastic...

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have fourteen Ender 5 plus ( 2 still in the box). I have had a few other printers too. I really prefer the Cube design. No "shakey bed". Less interference from the other three printers on each table. So far less than half of the BL touch on the ender 5 Plus work better than a micro switch. The first two (oldest) work OK. The second two oldest are good enough. All (so far)  of the newer ender 5Plus that come with the Meanwell power supply are not so great. I can take the same measurements over and over again and come up with plus or minus 0.02. They say BL touch on the side and came with the Creality printer. Did some of the Creality printers come with cone BL touch? 

The gantries are always level. The Ender 5 plus it good at keeping in step. I check once a week any way. 

              

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, RockyTop said:

I have fourteen Ender 5 plus ( 2 still in the box). I have had a few other printers too. I really prefer the Cube design. No "shakey bed". Less interference from the other three printers on each table. So far less than half of the BL touch on the ender 5 Plus work better than a micro switch. The first two (oldest) work OK. The second two oldest are good enough. All (so far)  of the newer ender 5Plus that come with the Meanwell power supply are not so great. I can take the same measurements over and over again and come up with plus or minus 0.02. They say BL touch on the side and came with the Creality printer. Did some of the Creality printers come with cone BL touch? 

The gantries are always level. The Ender 5 plus it good at keeping in step. I check once a week any way. 

              

We are supposed to get an Ultimaker this fall which I suspect will be a significant upgrade - but 14 machines? What are you doing with all those printers - printing bitcoin? I printed a few bitcoins myself but no matter how hard I tried I could not stuff them into the blockchain ;-)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well? I stared off making my own version of Lincoln logs for my grandson. Then I started making parts for work, and then EUC stands. Now in addition to the previews two, I am for hire. 

 

AABC3FD1-A733-4004-9839-C6EDBC584CFB47708820-AB0D-47E7-B857-91D0C0A1D419657378A0-D638-474A-951B-E1F32E76AC5CD2AC6E62-2D4A-473D-A132-FFEBAF6AB0CE1C30EEDD-B0E9-4A4C-8200-AC8A02B055D90105

My Grandson is still more into the destruction of Log Homes. You can see Godzilla in the background.

FBC838B1-728C-42DC-BAFD-2125B8E2B78A

Black Crow EUC stands  black crow 2.jpg

Edited by RockyTop
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it seems like you have a system worked out, so I don't think any advice from me applies to you haha. The ender 5s are pretty sweet - theory-wise I believe "Core-XY" (ender 5) printers are supposed to be able to produce higher quality prints when compared to a cartesion printer (ender 3) due to the nature of how the movements take place. But many 3D printer reviewers say they don't really see any difference? 🤷‍♀️

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, davinche said:

Well it seems like you have a system worked out, so I don't think any advice from me applies to you haha. 

Not True. Just because I make the same mistake over and over again does not mean I know better than others. It just makes me stubborn and stupid. I learn when I can and if someone says that it works for them it just means that I need to dive back in and find out why I am getting a different result. 

20 minutes ago, davinche said:

(ender 5) printers are supposed to be able to produce higher quality prints when compared to a cartesion printer (ender 3) due to the nature of how the movements take place. But many 3D printer reviewers say they don't really see any difference? 🤷‍♀️

I agree. Reviews say that there is not much of a difference. I see the biggest difference in the wide open areas. If you have a 100mm X100 mm flat wall the Cube printers do a better job. You can't see a difference on a textured vase of figurine. I get fewer strange artifacts on flat surfaces. At least that is what I see. 

Edited by RockyTop
Link to post
Share on other sites

There is one last advice I have for the BLTouch. It needs to be at a specific offset relative to the tip of the nozzle. I printed a little spacer/height gauge to help me get it right every single time I need to unmount/remount the bltouch.

Height Gauge: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1538742

So basically I have the BLTouch loose. I use the coupler to lower the nozzle until it is touching the bed. I then use the height gauge slide the bltouch into the correct position then tighten.

Edited by davinche
instructions for height gauge
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...