how wide tires could you fit in a gw tesla?

[alcatraz]

5 hours ago, Boogieman said:

That's not really true right?

If the slippery surface is i.e. ICE, the rubber blend makes the biggest difference (or better yet spikes)

If the slippery surface is SAND/GRAVEL, thread pattern (knobby rules) makes the biggest difference

If slippery surface is water and you don't slip due to water planing (no chance on EUC), thread pattern makes the biggest difference.

I don't see a single case where a narrower tyre gives more traction on slippery surface with a EUC, please explain what i have missed @alcatraz 

Thanks for the tip on the tyre

boogieman

Try driving on ice with wide tires. The pressure is not enough. Some need to load the back of their cars because they aren't heavy enough to not slide around.

[Sentient]

I was thinking of getting a Tesla V2 with the 1480wh battery from Aliexpress green fashion.  I heard they are a trusted seller.

Can you provide the link for the 2.5 inch tire?

Sounds like a great upgrade!

Thanks

[alcatraz]

Because the tire is so "simple" and "low tech" the sellers don't even put it up as a separate listing. The trick is to just find a CST seller that has a low shipping fee and ask them about the 16x2.5 CST C1488. It's the cheapest tire so if you offer to pay the same as the other tire they'll probably be happy to accomodate you.

Here's my 1000km update. I had to put more air in the tire and I think I put too much. The occasional scrape came back. I'm guessing it's a combination of air pressure and the tire stretching.

I conclude that this tire may be less suitable for very heavy riders that require a higher pressure. I'm 65kg and I can quite easily find a pressure that allows me to just ride carefree. If lets say you're 100kg and you need higher pressure you might be annoyed to hear an occasional scrape here and there.

I personally think a light scrape isn't enough to forget the idea, just giving you a heads up. 2.5in tire on a tesla is such an awesome feeling. I'd also like to add that my pressure gauge is broken so I probably don't use the right pressure. A working gauge and careful testing will help you to be noise free and comfortable.

I rarely pump my tire so out of habit I pump it a bit harder just to not do it again soon. Just pump it up a bit more often and to a lower pressure and you'll be fine.

[Sentient]

17 hours ago, alcatraz said:

@Alcatraz-

Thanks for the detailed reply.  Much appreciated!

It's funny in that the only real "concern" I have going w the tesla V2 (besides buying this modified 1480wh unit from aliexpress!)

Is the smaller tire size on this EUC.

 Not much bigger than my v8 - 1.95 inch tire.

A 2.5 inch tire will put this unit into a new league I'm thinking.  I also wanted to share this video about modding the tesla shell.  Likely dispel any rubbing issues after doing this.

 

 

[alcatraz]

The gap between shell and tire is even all around. By cutting in front and in the rear only, you need to raise the shell from the pedals to get any benefit. Simply cutting without doing that you haven't really addressed the clearance in the middle.

But by raising and cutting you could fit any 2.5in tire. Raising the tesla shell can be done but you have to do so very slightly if you dont want to cut the led strip and cover in two (they go under the pedal). This limitation made me go in the direction of not modifying the shell and focus on centering to take out the noise.

It looks like this rider is using the C1488 tire though which helps with clearance.

If I pump the tire too hard I can get noise, but at the right pressure (for me) it's silent. 

[alcatraz]

A V8 tire is also 2.125in like on the tesla. Only some V8 came with the narrower 1.95in tires.

However because a tesla rim is wider than the one on the V8, the same tire actually becomes effectively wider. What's written on the tire doesn't really matter. It's the real width that will determine comfort.

While a 2.5in C1488 is narrower than a standard 2.5in and won't provide exactly as much comfort, it will maximize the width for an unmodified tesla. If you modify you can fita 3in tire (really). But you need to sacrifice the led strip and raise the shell maybe 15mm. And because of the narrower rim (compared to 3in machines) you won't get full 3in comfort but you'll be close to it. A very good ride probably.

[alcatraz]

I forgot to mention that if you cut the shell you open up the control/battery enclosure to the outside. Especially in the back of the euc water could be shot into the enclosure by the rear wheel. It needs waterproofing after modifying.

The enclosure looks like a half moon or banana. When it's cut the tips are open to the outside.

Edited May 26, 2020 by alcatraz

[Jerald tham]

 Hi I just installed my tesla with cst 1488 . I am also 65 kg like you . Here is my conclusion 

40 psi - totally unridable 

35 psi - rideable but with a lot of scraping 

30 psi - rideable with around 20% scraping at every resolution 

I read and followed the thread . It seems kinda impossible to centre the middle line . Did what I could . 
 

as I am not a very patient person . I aired it to 40 psi and let it free spin to grind off the tip of the tyre . Well it did work initially . But the scraping came back . 
 

guess I have to work it out slowly . I am afraid if I kept let it free spin to grind of the tyre / plastic later I may ended up puncture a hole and fail the water proofing below the motherboard . Lol 

[alcatraz]

You can ovalise the shell holes a bit with a grinder if you want another mm or two of clearance.

Mine is 99% silent without doing that. You need to get the hair and outmost tire surface off before you can get it silent. That takes a few km at a reduced speed.

Keep the shell mounted high = hang the tesla from the handle before tightening the 6 bolts on both sides.

I'm never going back to 2.125. 

Edited June 6, 2020 by alcatraz

[Jerald tham]

On 6/7/2020 at 7:43 AM, alcatraz said:

You can ovalise the shell holes a bit with a grinder if you want another mm or two of clearance.

Mine is 99% silent without doing that. You need to get the hair and outmost tire surface off before you can get it silent. That takes a few km at a reduced speed.

Keep the shell mounted high = hang the tesla from the handle before tightening the 6 bolts on both sides.

I'm never going back to 2.125. 

My friend told me . It is better to screw 4 instead of 6 . You will get an inch better ground clearance ... what do you think 

[alcatraz]

When the shell has an open dropout it's easier. On the tesla the led strip goes right under the dropout and pedal. 

You need to do something about the led strip to do that. Either cut it or reroute it somehow.

[Jerald tham]

Because making it oval ... I feel it will drop back down in matter of time . Those 12 screws see screws on a plastic . And this euc is heavy 

[alcatraz]

You can add larger washers and threadlocker if you're worried about slippage.

[Dany VC]

Hello guys, first sorry for my English, it is a translator ... Currently I have ordered a gotway tesla and my intention is to change the tire to 2.5 (62-305).  I have been able to find two sellers in Ali that have this tire, to interest you I pass the links, I bought the first one for being puncture resistant, I hope I have not made a mistake, the seller assured me that the measurement is 62-305, in the second  link the measurement is indicated in the photo and even though it does not come brand and model, I think it is the tire that has been commented here, the CST C-1488.

1°   https://a.aliexpress.com/_ePbJxl

2°   https://a.aliexpress.com/_eMve55

 

[alcatraz]

I doubt other 62-305 will fit the tesla. The rather slim c-1488 is already a tight fit.

[Dany VC]

In theory, if a tire marks 62-305, it cannot be more or less thin, it must simply be 62-305 ... anyway when I get everything I will do the test and tell you about it.  If it is true that I have taken a risk and could have played it safe and bought the 1488, I already tried that anti-puncture tire on another wheel and I liked it a lot, on the other hand, by trying another tire I will be able to give a small contribution to the community

[alcatraz]

Usually for clincher tires the specification is just a loose spec. The tire is only a part of the enclosure, and low speed tire production isn't the highest tech.

It's good to try other tires though as it can help the community to know what works and what doesn't.

What matters is the real size. A tire marked 3inch that is about the size of a 2.125 will not provide more comfort. The C1488 will be less comfortable than a standard 2.5in because of it, but with 1-2mm clearance to the shell you can safely say the size (and comfort) is "maxed out".

[rinzler]

Sorry to revive this thread but I've just a got a puncture. Very annoying but perhaps the opportunity to buy the 2.5 tyre.

Just wanted to check @alcatraz your technique for removing the wheel. I was going to follow the YouTube guides but you mention to be able to do this with one side off only. Could you expand on your tyre change steps?

Also anyone know the normal inner tube spec is or maybe one that is more puncture resistant then what they provide from the factory. 

Having started to get used to just wheeling around I actually now miss my Tesla so thinking to get back on the road asap whilst finding someone who sells the 2.5 cat tyre.

[alcatraz]

16 hours ago, rinzler said:

Sorry to revive this thread but I've just a got a puncture. Very annoying but perhaps the opportunity to buy the 2.5 tyre.

Just wanted to check @alcatraz your technique for removing the wheel. I was going to follow the YouTube guides but you mention to be able to do this with one side off only. Could you expand on your tyre change steps?

Also anyone know the normal inner tube spec is or maybe one that is more puncture resistant then what they provide from the factory. 

Having started to get used to just wheeling around I actually now miss my Tesla so thinking to get back on the road asap whilst finding someone who sells the 2.5 cat tyre.

This is an older pm for someone that asked the same question.

 

1 Pedals off (not necessary but makes it a bit easier) 

2. Right side panel off (4 philips screws) and disconnect left!!! battery, mount sidepanel again. (disconnect right battery too)

3. Left side panel off. Take battery out.

4. Remove the led strip on the left side. First its cover and then the strip. Leave it loose hanging but connected.

5. There is a strip of tape holding the two body halves together under the control board. Try to peel that off from the small gap. If you can do it without removing the board you save tons of time.

6. Remove front and rear panels starting from the bottom. The ones that look like arches.

7. Remove the little panel under the left side pedal.

8. Locate the 8 screws along the border of the inner case (4 on each side) and remove them.

9. Remove the 6 bolts between case and left pedal mount. Split the case by removing the left half. The led strip can be fed through the hole the cable goes through. Done.

I wrote this from memory so maybe it's not 100%. Check the youtube video for details. There is a ~13min of an asian guy disassembling the tesla completely. You don't need to do that.

 

Added later:

I forgot at step 8 there are 10 screws to split the case.

The two missing screws are located by the top right corner of each battery pack. One from each side, always top right corner.

If you unscrew the ride hand side screw at step 2 when you're inside the right side panel, you can save time.

Edited September 21, 2020 by alcatraz

[Boogieman]

On 9/20/2020 at 3:42 PM, rinzler said:

Sorry to revive this thread but I've just a got a puncture. Very annoying but perhaps the opportunity to buy the 2.5 tyre.

Just wanted to check @alcatraz your technique for removing the wheel. I was going to follow the YouTube guides but you mention to be able to do this with one side off only. Could you expand on your tyre change steps?

Also anyone know the normal inner tube spec is or maybe one that is more puncture resistant then what they provide from the factory. 

Having started to get used to just wheeling around I actually now miss my Tesla so thinking to get back on the road asap whilst finding someone who sells the 2.5 cat tyre.

I made a walkthrough with images some while ago under tyres, maybe should have been under DIY? ANYWAY, HERE GOES

 

[rinzler]

On 9/21/2020 at 7:45 PM, Boogieman said:

I made a walkthrough with images some while ago under tyres, maybe should have been under DIY? ANYWAY, HERE GOES

 

Thanks for linking this and for doing the write up.

I will follow the steps. But just so you know @Boogieman, your image links are all broken. Perhaps you've moved the source folders that they thread links to?

EDIT - nothing wrong with the pics. Just my workplace's heavy handed approach to online security...

Edited September 23, 2020 by rinzler
Wrong info

[jaiong]

I wonder if

1. shaving the tire rubber outermost edge by 1mm, and

2. lifting the shell by 0.5mm (with some  metal scrap) in the screw holes,

works with normal 2.5" on v1? 

[alcatraz]

I'm gueesing no. But you are right that it's the middle that scrapes first so that radius needs to be controlled.

That c1488 is a thin tread tire.

[jaiong]

7 hours ago, alcatraz said:

I'm gueesing no. But you are right that it's the middle that scrapes first so that radius needs to be controlled.

That c1488 is a thin tread tire.

Are you saying 1 5mm is still  not sufficient? I'm going with Kenda k1039 tire, about 2mm less tall. 

(btw, for those with 16S, 3inch tire actually fits and rides without scrapes, but drags power) 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2021 by jaiong
Add-on

[alcatraz]

A new c1488 on my tesla rubs slightly without lifting the shell. After the production "hair" on the tire has worn away it becomes silent. That takes maybe 50km of riding and the right air pressure (not too high).

So no, I don't think you can make the tesla generic 2.5in compatible without lifting the shell and grinding the front and rear of the shell. 

You really want to avoid doing the latter as you will have to waterproof the opening you create. You open up the compartment to the control board.

The wheel well in a tesla is shaped perfectly round (viewed sideways). Raising it alone is not enough. It goes 180deg around the wheel so you might gain 10mm clearance in the middle (at the handle) but you'll still rub on the front and back edge. (You can gain clearance at 90deg, but you'll still rub at 0 and 180 deg positions)

The width of the wheel well actually allows for a 3in tire no problem so if you're going to seriously modify the shell then better just go to 3in directly. With the 2.5in c1488 you don't have to do any modding. It's a nice sweet spot.

Edited February 2, 2021 by alcatraz