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Gotway Tesla Issue - Diagnosis Requested


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35 minutes ago, US69 said:

This means nothing...

Thy typical "loose wheel nut" symptoms start by a Little bit gnarcing on the plastic, when you accelerate or brake....This means the nut is just a tiny tiny bit loose, so that the pedal arm scratches a bit more against the plastic.

I don’t have any other symptoms other than the vibration - none of the above!

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26 minutes ago, Roo Williams said:

I don’t have any other symptoms other than the vibration - none of the above!

Sorry, just now came to hear the sounds, before i was just refering to Problems mentioned by others....

TO ME this Sound like a total harmless plastic vibrating, coming from some parts of the Shell, which Comes from the vibrating the Motor gives when it is working.

i had some nearly identical Sounds on my Tesla, too.....

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21 minutes ago, US69 said:

TO ME this Sound like a total harmless plastic vibrating, coming from some parts of the Shell, which Comes from the vibrating the Motor gives when it is working.

i had some nearly identical Sounds on my Tesla, too.....

The vibration is new, the sound is one form of feedback from it, but I feel it in the pedals and up my leg. It’s a deep vibration that is pretty worrying to the point I’m actually taking the anxiety inducing, mobile hellhole that is the NYC subway to work this morning. 

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I have done some work with stepper motors in the past, at 3 seconds in this video is what the vibration reminds me of. I think the cause is when the motor's pulsing is slightly out of step with its index. I'd see this on 3D printers when the rails that the head moves along needed lubrication.

I wonder if it's a shuddering that's happening when the motor is trying to pulse over to the next step and is unable to do so because of some sort of drag. That would explain why it doesn't happen at faster speeds - there's less drag due to momentum, and the step frequency is more in sync with the pulse width, whereas when it's barely moving and under a slight load that is slightly skewed it finds it difficult to 'snap' to the next step.

Another similar video: 

 

There has always been quite a bit of drag when freely spinning the wheel, turned off, but I thought this was normal...

I think I can rule out drag due to a bent axle because the vibration gradually came on during yesterday's commute home, and has since gotten worse during my testing, which makes me think that maybe detritus picked up from NYC's dusty roads in the wet has begun to get between moving and stationary parts and cause friction.

Has anyone ever had to open their wheel and clean around the axle? I do know that people that ride OneWheels sometimes have to open the motor itself and clean it out because it sucks in dust and grit and causes a 'growl' when the motor is in operation.

 

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3 hours ago, Roo Williams said:

Hey! Not a massive tumble, it skidded and slows pretty quickly without hitting anything so no damage other than some scuffs to outside edges.

I’ve tightenee every screw visible on the inside of the panels and there weren’t any that were loose. Axle bolts seem firm and this noise doesn’t seem to be the result of a vibration of a loose part, it’s more ‘core’ than that, you can feel it right through the Tesla, like something quite heavy or powerful is vibrating. Here’s another really badly filmed vid with my dog getting yippy in the background. The trolley doesn’t seem to vibrate at all and you can see I lift it up and down. The batteries are firmly in place - I had to duck tape one side to keep it in while the cover is off.

 

 

FYI, you can't determine if the nuts are loose with your fingers. They never get that loose. The only way to check the nuts is to tightened them. If they don't move under the force of a wrench, then they are tight.

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3 hours ago, Roo Williams said:

All good! I don’t have a grinder but I have a drill press and vise so I can work my way through creating a slot and finish with a file. I’ll be buying the socket specifically for this so all good.

That said, I think the Tesla bolts aren’t too submerged within the shell and you could probably manage it with a wrench (at an angle). But may as well do it properly :)

You would probably be the first person to do it. There's quite a bit of force needed. Just don't round over the nut.

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7 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

FYI, you can't determine if the nuts are loose with your fingers. They never get that loose. The only way to check the nuts is to tightened them. If they don't move under the force of a wrench, then they are tight.

I'm planning to go out and try and find a 24mm socket locally today. Otherwise I'll have one on order from Amazon tonight!

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1 minute ago, houseofjob said:

@Roo Williams Try the vid below + comments. Your Tesla issues reminds me of it, plus the design and internal component arrangements are similar, if not the same on both Tesla & MCM4.

 

That is totally it!! Good find. Ok so we are potentially talking board and I was thinking @Marty Backe was about to lose his paycheck... 

But after reading the comments it sounds more like a loose board causing the board and gyroscope to move, thus creating a feedback loop that causes it to shudder. This makes a lot of sense to me given the fact that it came on suddenly but gradually. Good lead @houseofjob, I'll try tightening the board tonight and will def buy you a beer at the next meet if this fixes it.

Just to pull relevant info here for anyone that needs... the comment there says: 

Quote

The solution was very simple - tighten the screws securing the PCB, by inserting rubber washers. The PCB vibration was causing the gyro sensor going crazy.

And someone else replies

Quote

wow thank you for the problem solve !! my tesla was exactly making same sound and now its gone !!

FINGERS CROSSED.

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55 minutes ago, Roo Williams said:

That is totally it!! Good find. Ok so we are potentially talking board and I was thinking @Marty Backe was about to lose his paycheck... 

But after reading the comments it sounds more like a loose board causing the board and gyroscope to move, thus creating a feedback loop that causes it to shudder. This makes a lot of sense to me given the fact that it came on suddenly but gradually. Good lead @houseofjob, I'll try tightening the board tonight and will def buy you a beer at the next meet if this fixes it.

Just to pull relevant info here for anyone that needs... the comment there says: 

And someone else replies

FINGERS CROSSED.

:cry2:

Will be great (and fascinating) if this fixes your problem.

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That fixed it! Just a rubber buffer between the aluminum plate and the screws/washers that hold it in place was all that was needed. I saw that when I removed those screws, the alu plate wasn’t actually being held by the left hand side because the slot that the plate slides into was deeper than the plate, so there was a gap between where the washer finally ends up and the alu plate, which gets filled by the now added rubber.

There’s a few places on the Tesla that could do with washers to stop bolts that would otherwise come undone, coming undone. The grub screws that hold that bar in that holds the foot pads on is a pretty crazy mechanism and I’ve caught them coming undone before. I popped a piece of rubber between the grub screw and the bar on either end. A serrated alu washer might work wonders for the axle bolts too tho I don’t wanna mess with that tonight. Happy!!

EF0126FC-AB90-43EB-A7F1-8556E81F2B78.jpeg

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It sounds like pedals vibrations, to be sure of, open the second or put some foam against the shell.

From my experience, I've seen only two times a loose axle. One from lack of thread lock on one side of the axle, the second because of huge deformation of the pedal hanger.

Remove the other pedal and it will stop making noise, however it is not practicle to ride... ?

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4 hours ago, Roo Williams said:

That fixed it! Just a rubber buffer between the aluminum plate and the screws/washers that hold it in place was all that was needed. I saw that when I removed those screws, the alu plate wasn’t actually being held by the left hand side because the slot that the plate slides into was deeper than the plate, so there was a gap between where the washer finally ends up and the alu plate, which gets filled by the now added rubber.

There’s a few places on the Tesla that could do with washers to stop bolts that would otherwise come undone, coming undone. The grub screws that hold that bar in that holds the foot pads on is a pretty crazy mechanism and I’ve caught them coming undone before. I popped a piece of rubber between the grub screw and the bar on either end. A serrated alu washer might work wonders for the axle bolts too tho I don’t wanna mess with that tonight. Happy!!

EF0126FC-AB90-43EB-A7F1-8556E81F2B78.jpeg

FYI, the axle nuts have a built-in serrated washer.

Glad you found the problem (and my paycheck is safe :)). I guess this is something to look out for on the newer Gotway wheels that mount the control board horizontally at the top of the wheel.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, 

After much frustration and searching I found this thread.

My Msuper V3 s was chattering exactly like the video in the thread (maybe worse).

Tightened the machine screws, the axle nuts, played with every wire, etc. 

When I tried to tighten the control board it turned out that 2 of the screw posts had broken loose.

After lathering them with loads of epoxy, including the non-broken posts, and careful reassembly with locktite, the wheel now runs as smooth as ever...maybe even better(?)

Thanks for the thread, my summer is back on a single track!

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5 minutes ago, Stephen Strube said:

Hi guys, 

After much frustration and searching I found this thread.

My Msuper V3 s was chattering exactly like the video in the thread (maybe worse).

Tightened the machine screws, the axle nuts, played with every wire, etc. 

When I tried to tighten the control board it turned out that 2 of the screw posts had broken loose.

After lathering them with loads of epoxy, including the non-broken posts, and careful reassembly with locktite, the wheel now runs as smooth as ever...maybe even better(?)

Thanks for the thread, my summer is back on a single track!

Thanks for the report. Looks like this is something that all Tesla owners need to be on the lookout for.

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  • 1 month later...

..guys this is the inherent of the “super hard “ pedal ride algorithm breakthrough that Gotway somehow unfold last year and It all begin with the Luffy ! There is nothing to worry about. Try this experiment! Switch to soft mode and do the test with your slanted leg rolling up and down! On your return leg you will find the oscillation highest! Now switch to mid mode and you will notice that the “vibration” become reduce and when switched to sport mode u will find that the “vibration” almost disappear or has been reduced much!!! The oscillation fm the electronics vibrate the pedal rod. I have just been reading and alerted to this tread because my client link me here to read of this “sensational finding” which actually is an inherent trait of the “new” Gotway firmware breakthrough success that begin it all with Marty fall that Gotway engineer “pay” the underworld to get those “code” fixed and later go on to overdrive to try make a different to its brand. Today everyone is shouting how great the new ride is? and the birth of this “vibration” fm the initial trial. Ask Marty to test it on the new X and surely you will find it there too if you keep trying to find the perfect Gotway! There is nothing wrong with the mechanics of thing and it is the “Code” or the Gene that you must be eventually get accepted it being Gotway.  And with further opinion coming onboard the “vibration” issue  gets overblown with some fiddling fixed, it seem an inherent gene have been fixed in lieu instead of just switching mode!

i just found that with the latest Apps update the inherent oscillation has almost gone away with my new testing and now only more pronounce on my MSV3SX!

In due process and time..the Codes will get more refine to the point that it will take a lot of computer energy to write to remove that vibration.

try it on KS or Inmotion and if u focus it long enough u will spot that vibration too!

this is just like music to audiophile! Instead of listening to the beautiful tunes you go searching for noises?

 

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26 minutes ago, FlyingRat said:

..guys this is the inherent of the “super hard “ pedal ride algorithm breakthrough that Gotway somehow unfold last year and It all begin with the Luffy ! There is nothing to worry about. Try this experiment! Switch to soft mode and do the test with your slanted leg rolling up and down! On your return leg you will find the oscillation highest! Now switch to mid mode and you will notice that the “vibration” become reduce and when switched to sport mode u will find that the “vibration” almost disappear or has been reduced much!!! I have just been reading this tread because my client link me here to alert me of this “sensational finding” which actually is an inherent trait of the new Gotway “firmware” breakthrough success that begin it all with Marty fall that Gotway engineer “Pay” the underworld to get those “codes” fixed and later go on overdrive. Today everyone is shouting how great the new ride is? and the birth of this “vibration”. Ask Marty to test it on the new X and surely you will find it there too if you keep trying to find the perfect Gotway! There is nothing wrong with the mechanics of thing and it is the “Code” or the Gene that you must eventually accept it being Gotway.  And with further opinion coming onboard the “vibration” issue  gets overblown. with some fiddling fixed, it seem an inherent gene have been fixed in lieu! 

In due process and time..the Codes will get more refine to the point that it will take a lot of computer energy to write to remove that vibration.

try it on KS or Inmotion and if u focus it long enough u will spot that vibration too!

this is just like music to audiophile! Instead of listening to the beautiful tunes you go searching for noises?

 

Well said! My new MCM5 makes the same noise too. All is normal.

It didn't occur to me that in the softer modes it goes away (I'm almost always in the hard mode). Cool. I'll have to remember this to tell people in the future.

Thanks.

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..guys we just sold a latest Tesla V2 yesterday and only notice it with comestic body upgrade to all carbon fiber imprint and wonderful LED lightings sequence! This reaffirm my thoughts that the Tesla is now untouchable and certainly look more stunning! Let alone perhaps the new twicking of the firmware to refine that electronic “vibration”.

With every new model like the MCM5, Monster 100v and X..Gotway is staying ahead of the high performance game to makeup for what they lack in 1st class manufacturing production line of Inmotion and Ninebot or even KS!

keep on the game Gotway and team up with Yamaha, Honda or Geely to one day become mainstream single wheel high performance  Motor Cycle?? where no big name dare to tread except Gotway?

Meantime just check out this forum to see if any problem exist.

caveat emptor!

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36 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Well said! My new MCM5 makes the same noise too. All is normal.

It didn't occur to me that in the softer modes it goes away (I'm almost always in the hard mode). Cool. I'll have to remember this to tell people in the future.

Thanks.

Marty actually is the other way round! Sport mode reduces the vibration. Perhaps with soft mode the maths is trying hard to catch up to dampen out the load! But surely with experience code writers the Motor will eventually smooth out! 

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Just now, FlyingRat said:

Marty actually is the other way round! Sport mode reduces the vibration. Perhaps with soft mode the maths is trying hard to catch up to dampen out the load! But surely with experience code writers the Motor will eventually smooth out! 

I need to try this out when I get home tonight. Thanks!

Since the wheels tend to ship in the Soft mode it maybe makes sense that it's more noticeable to new Gotway riders.

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