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How to remove pedals?


yes8s

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If you've seen my other post I've got a cheap TG-T3 and it's a knock-off of the airwheel/solowheel etc.

Since I got the thing it's had two issues:

1. When I go forward then backwards fast I hear a click on each change of direction.

2. The pedals don't seem to stay folded up all the way, they always flop back about 15-20degrees no matter how hard I tighten the grub screws.

I suspect both issues are due to the pedals not being on properly. There is also something visiably not right with the mount point of the pedals. There is a gap between one of the spacers and the pedal (I'll post up pics tomorrow).

I want to take the pedals off to take a look at what's going on. Does anyone know how? There doesn't seem to be any screws in the holes (after removing grub screws), just a blunt-ended rod looking thing. Do I punch this out with a hammer and something inserted into the hole?

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post-134-0-16465800-1422973651_thumb.png

These are the spacers in question. On most other videos/photo's Ive seen these are hard up against the pedals and the central frame/post. On mine there are gaps. One side of the frame/post has a larger gap than the other.

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I am only familiar with the pedals on the Solowheel.

But yes, you remove the two hex screws on each side and just use a hammer and dowel to push the pin out. It's usually nothing more than a soft steel rod.

Please not that it is possible to upset the pedal if you screw the hex screws too tight. Although the pedals may look shiny and nice, the material is a relatively soft type aluminum that is easily bent.

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I am only familiar with the pedals on the Solowheel.

But yes, you remove the two hex screws on each side and just use a hammer and dowel to push the pin out. It's usually nothing more than a soft steel rod.

Please not that it is possible to upset the pedal if you screw the hex screws too tight. Although the pedals may look shiny and nice, the material is a relatively soft type aluminum that is easily bent.

 

Thanks, I'll try this later today when I get home.

 

Does it require much force? Do you reuse the pin or do you have to replace it after bashing it out? I don't want to damage anything...

 

Thanks

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Do you reuse the pin or do you have to replace it after bashing it out? I don't want to damage anything...

 

You can reuse the pin as long the pin is straight (what it normaly is)

Use something like Loctite when reinstall the screws.

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The pins on my IPS's pushed out easily with the Allen key I used on the grub screws. The slack on the spacers shouldn't be a problem. The spacers hold the pedals in roughly the correct position and once your weight is on them they're not going to move.

On the IPS there is an additional screw that screws into the bottom of each pedal support and clamps onto a flat on the bar to further prevent it's moving. When I raised my pedals to the upper mounting points these screws no longer reached so I got some M4 30mm stainless machine screws but because the screw holes were out of line I had to grind the thread off the first 10mm of the screws to get them to reach the bar and clamp it.

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You can reuse the pin as long the pin is straight (what it normaly is)

Use something like Loctite when reinstall the screws.

Cool, thanks.

 

The pins on my IPS's pushed out easily with the Allen key I used on the grub screws. The slack on the spacers shouldn't be a problem. The spacers hold the pedals in roughly the correct position and once your weight is on them they're not going to move.

I'm thinking that's it - The pin and spacers just need some kind of adjustment. The issues don't seem to be affecting riding - they're just annoying.

 

On the IPS there is an additional screw that screws into the bottom of each pedal support and clamps onto a flat on the bar to further prevent it's moving. When I raised my pedals to the upper mounting points these screws no longer reached so I got some M4 30mm stainless machine screws but because the screw holes were out of line I had to grind the thread off the first 10mm of the screws to get them to reach the bar and clamp it.

I saw a threaded M4 hole in the centre of the pedal post but there was no screw in it - so it's to further secure the pin.

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I saw a threaded M4 hole in the centre of the pedal post but there was no screw in it - so it's to further secure the pin.

It is on the IPS and I can't see it doing any harm on any EU.

If you've got the threaded hole there then machine screws clamped up against the pin will definitely make everything more solid and the spacers would then be almost redundant.

When you remove the pins look to see if there is a short flat section half way along for the clamp screws. If there isn't it would do no harm to grind a small flat indent for the screws.

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Ok, so I got the pin out. It was quite easy in the end.

I think I figured out what was happening with the wonky spacers. There are small plastic tabs at the base of the pedal post. These tabs protuded too far out preventing the spacers from being able to sit over them while being too short (and wide) to actually provide further spacing. The spacers ended up just sitting on an angle. It was obvious as there was lots of wear on these tabs.

I thought this was what was causing the clicking (i.e. spacers clicking over plastic) so I filed down the plastic tabs but it wasn't that - I still get the clicking sound. I can't figure out if it is still coming from the pedals or if it is motor. If I move the EU back and forth fast by hand the clicking is not there so not sure if it's a weight thing or a feet on pedals thing - It's wierd.

With regards to the pedals not staying folding up, I'm pretty sure now that it's the lack of screw holding the steel pin in place. On my EU, the hole in the pedal post that the pin slides through has been machined with too large a tolerance so the whole pin still spins a few degrees within the hole after it's been folded.

It also looks like the spacers that we're originally designed for it could have been machined in a different way allowing for the flat on the inside of the spacer to hold the pin in place while another flat on the outside holds the pin parallel to the plastic beside the pedal post.

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Was there a flat on the pins for the grub screws to clamp on?

There was a flat along the whole length of the pin on my el-cheapo EU. I think it was machined just a little too much causing the pin to spin around too much in the pedal post hole.

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  • 1 month later...

I just started learning with training wheels and I found my feet are hurting within minutes. I'm wondering if there are any mods for the pedals so they feel "cushy" instead of real hard. I hope in the future all wheels comes with some kind of shock absorbers.

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  • 7 months later...

I hate to revive an old thread, but...

How do you remove the pedals when there are no grub screws, no spacers, just a solid metal rod on which the pedals pivot? I'm having a hard time figuring this one out...

EDIT: I found it the screws but I can't get the metal rod out.

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@csmyers You have to insert something in there like an allen wrench or small rod or flat-head screwdriver - then you tap on this with a mallet and this will tap out that long pin inside.  You should feel it happening when you do it.  If the pin is bent you'd think it would be hard to push out.  At least most eu models are like this.

Also of note regarding the flat side on the pin - I have one eu wheel that uses this flat part to hold the pedals in up (or down) position without a magnet.  The hex screws ends must be tight against the pin and the friction and that flat side + grub screw keeps the pedal from falling open when in the up position - mine has a problem now staying folded up - this is at least one version of not using a magnet to fold the pedals.  The TG T3 also doesn't use magnets, correct?  I haven't removed its pedal though.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello all,

I have a TG and I the pedals is not holding up anymore after a week of usage!! I removed the grub screws and push the rod out and I found a spring came out. 

I cant seems to identify what is causing the the pedals to not holding up.

Any experts here can help me out? I cant find any discussions or video clips with regards to repairing loose pedals.

 

 

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If there are no magnets it is likely it relies on the rods being held still by the clamp screws that go up through the centre of the pedal hanger/frame. As long as the pins are held so that they cannot spin then you can stiffen the hinge to make the pedals stay up by tightening the grub screws onto the ends of the rod, you need to use Locktite to stop them from loosening off again within 2or3 folds of the pedals.

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My TG T3 had no spring in there! I'm curious about that.

The grub screws would quickly become loose with use, I used to tighten them each day. After adding threadlocker, they stay put.

I have the grub screws tightened so that there is friction moving the pedals up and down, but even when full up, there is about 1 inch of play / 10 degrees of play. It's not a problem, but shaking the EU will cause the pedals to flop about in this 1 inch of play.

@yes8s, this is a silly questions, but could the clicking be the pedals sliding forward and back a tiny bit when you reverse direction, making the spacers click against the pedal mount? If there is still a space between the spacer and the pedal mount (there is about 2 mm of play between my spacers and pedal mount) you could consider putting in a teflon washer to fill the space and if that was where the clicking was happening, it might muffle it.

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3 hours ago, Colestien said:

On my Generic there is a screw on the underside and center of each pedale.  The allen screw pushes on the rod that holds the pedals thus making the pedals tight.

Yea I saw that I was wondering whether it will help. However if the rod is too tight whether the pedals will flip because the rods also acts as a hinge.  Sorry it may sound very stupid but mechanics is really not my area of expertise :(

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On mine the rod doesn't rotate, the pedal does.  So the allen on the pedal just makes the "hinging action" firmer.  I saw a drawing of someone else's Wheel.  On theirs there was a rubber plug under that allen to allow pressure to be applied without scaring the rod.  I tighten it about once a month to keep my pedals from flopping while I carry it.

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Ok.. so Colestien's suggestion helped I went and bought an M6 screw to screw underneath the pedal and tightened the allen screw on both side and it worked! Though the M6 screw at the bottom was sticking out so I will need to get some small grub screws.

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Here is what the setup for the hinges looks like on a Firewheel, I think it's pretty common for those wheels that don't have a magnet catch.The hex screws on either end prevent the shaft from turning, and the shaft itself has a slight bend to keep it in place. The pedal has the setscrew and nylon cylinder that gives some friction against the shaft but allows the pedals to be moved up and down.

meGIPRP.jpg

 

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