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Found 8 results

  1. I recently found out that I could not fully charge my V8 using the original factory default 84V 1.5A charger. The charger light always turns green while the battery indicator on V8 is still blinking. Tried few different experiments using Charge Doctor Voltage output with 3 different chargers: Charger A - my oldest charger, about 15 - 16 months usage, indicates 79.8V - 79.9V. Charger B - about 6 months usage, indicates 80.5V - 80.6V. Charger C - about 3 months usage, indicates 81V. I have never really noticed the Voltage while they were brand new though. Are they supposed to be exact 84V showing on Charge Doctor? Could anyone with V8 and Charge Doctor confirm please? What is wrong with these? Which components are failing/aging and need to be replaced? Is it normal for chargers to have output voltage drops overtime like this? I believe I have always taken good care of them.
  2. Awaywardman

    Voltage?

    I purchased a 2017 Gotway MSuper V3s+ 18” and recently had an Oscillation incident where the motor failed and through me off. It was the 2017 1300 watt hour 84 volt model. I sent it to their warranty facility. After a month I got it back and when I started riding it again I noticed on the app I use (wheel log) it reads 63 volts... So I'm wondering if the warranty facility replaced my motor with a the older 67 volt version... Does anyone here have an 84 volt MSuper and use the wheel log app? What does your voltage say?
  3. LukasF

    charging voltage

    I wanted to have a second charger for my ninebot, but the original charger is very expensive. So I ordered a charger from china. The voltage is 62.7 V compared to 61.8 V of the original charger, measured with multimeter. Is this a problem? I hope not, because 62.7/15 =4.18<4.2, but I just want to make sure
  4. The reason why there are speed warnings and tilt-backs (even tilt-forward for my gotway Msuper) is to avoid that the rider falls forward while accelerating because the engine, the converter cannot deliver that high CURRENT, while he is able to work at that voltage. But strange enough, the warnings, the alarms and tilt-backs depend from speed (which is proportional with the voltage) instead of current. You would still say: so what? Well, if you are climbing a steep hill of 35 degrees and you are 120kg and you accelerate very fast on this hill from 0 to 20km/h. You wouldn't even hear a warning before falling because your speed is OK (less than 20km/h) but the engine and the converter cannot deliver that high current: current is proportional with the load (=weight, inclination and accelaration). voltage is proportional with the speed (motor speed and unicycle speed). Also for braking, once I had braked heavily and my gotway msuper did a tilt-forward, to make me clear that he cannot brake that fast. Again without warning. since my speed was ok, besides I was braking so of course there will be no warnings for brakings: but it should. I became a little unstable due to tilt forward during braking but again this is a current and load issue not a speed and voltage issue. why don't they focus to current to make the unicycle safer. The voltage nearly rests the same for all moments: 52-68 volt:empty, full, high speed, low speed, braking, accelerating. always between 52-68. But the current can go from minus 50 amperes to plus 50 amperes: a huge difference and the most restricting factor for the capabilities of the product. If we look at the progression in the car industry in the last 2 centuries, one can give an example for safe braking to compare with the safe accelerating on the euc's. They make an ABS system to make you brake safer. They don't say: "you are braking, your intention is to stop, and stopping is safe, so you are in the good way. you don't need a ABS. you may brake and slip when you brake from 200km/h to 0km/h in a rainy environment and due to slipping you may make an accident and die." But the engineers of euc do still need time to make the euc safer, not slower, safer by inventing the current warning system. No? I think the reason is: current can change instantly (accelerating from zero or hard braking at high speed) and warnings should not have an impact by that time, while speed increases slowly (e.g. 3 seconds from 0 to 30km/h), then it has sense to send an alarm at 25km/h and by the time you hear it and you stop accelerating you ride already 35km/h. If the warning would be at 33km/h, by the time you hear the alarm you would be at 44km/h and you would have fallen. But for people want to accelerate slowly the alarms at low speed levels is not relevant. Engineers... am I correct?
  5. I recorded the battery states from two rides and display the results below. As the relation between remaining capacity and voltage seems to be close to linear over a wide range,^1 the data seem to be useful to evaluate range and energy efficiency of the device. Device: GotWay 14" MCM2s, 340Wh (unconfirmed), 80kg load, tire pressure ~40 PSI. Method: screen shots of the GotWay app under zero load and zero speed (i.e. stopping for each and every screen shot). The acquired data are trip length, battery voltage, and battery temperature. To estimate efficiency and range, I assumed a (I believe realistic^1) overall available voltage range of 12.5V, e.g. from 65V to 52.5V, with capacity linear in voltage. Full charge is 66.2V (measured), battery empty status is allegedly 51V (unconfirmed). The smallest value I had seen so far is 55V, with already significant change in riding experience. Both trips shown do not start from full charge, but close to full. First, a two-way round trip with small detours and roughly about 50m altitude difference, mostly on smooth sidewalks. The overall voltage drop was 2.5V after 8.6km, that is 2.9V/10km. Estimated range: 43km Estimated efficiency: 12.7km/100Wh or 79Wh/10km Second, a practicing session (round trip) mostly over comparatively rough cobblestone and overall comparatively small altitude differences. The overall voltage drop was 5.1 after 11km, that is, 4.7V/10km. Estimated range: 26.6km Estimated efficiency: 7.8km/100Wh or 128Wh/10km I cannot quite explain the large voltage drops in the beginning of the second trip.The voltage increase observed between 2.5 and 3.1km can not be attributed to energy recuperation, because it was a 600m round trip. I triple-checked the data. I don't have a really good explanation there as well.The -12V/10km episode around 8km were 2x10m eights with sharp acceleration and braking between each U-turn. Given these data are reproducible, we see that a smooth surface makes a big difference (somewhat unsurprisingly) andunder optimal conditions efficiency might be considerably better than 100Wh/10km (somewhat surprisingly), even something close to 50Wh/10km wouldn't surprise me anymore now. Here are a few sources of uncertainty: tire pressure is only an estimate the distance measure depends on the calibration of the wheel+app, on the tire pressure, and on the load, all in all in an (yet) undetermined wayinertia/recoveries in voltage measurements, which apparently leads to voltage increase even over a distance of one kilometer flat. difference between initial and final battery temperature, it seems that 10C temperature difference can make for about 0.5V difference. I don't think they have a game-changing influence for estimating overall efficiency though, can't be sure of course. I wonder: are these data still consistent with a 270Wh battery, or do they positively confirm 340Wh? Suggestion for improvements are welcome. If you are interested I will try to post a few more graphs... ^1: http://lygte-info.dk/pic/Batteries2012/Efan%20IMR18650%203200mAh%20(Purple)/Efan%20IMR18650%203200mAh%20(Purple)-Capacity.png http://www.dampfakkus.de/akkuvergleich.php?akku1=498&akku2=99&akku3=&akku4=&akku5=&akku6=&a=2 http://www.powerstream.com/18650-high-discharge-rate.htm
  6. Nevin@Tec-toyz.com

    Msuper new BMS Board

    @SirGeraint here a pic of the BMS board on the new battery packs. This may help as an aid. The old packs don't have the HV and the LV.
  7. I just did something STUPID! Actually it was supposed to happen and I was aware, but still kind of careless this time. Because of curiosity, I got used to measure the voltage on the inlet by the pins of multicet device...I may use the wrong words, but the picture is quite explanatory. This time I accidentally touched with the pin both + and the outside metal ring which I suppose is mass (-). This produced short small spark and I heard something slightly snapped inside....and I already knew that I'm in trouble. 1. Next action I pushed the power button, the led flashed shortly, the wheel didn't powered as normal and after that the electricity shut off. 2. Again (this time extremely carefully...too late ) I measured the voltage and find out fast increasing from 30V to normal more than 60V. 3. Pushed again the power button and was back to step 1, followed by step 2 So, I managed to damage my lovely generic wheel, which performed quite well with 132Wh Samsung battery, never betrayed me so far for that month that I have it. I suppose this wheel is some kind of early Solowheel copy just with changed design. Next, I'm going to open the battery and electronic holdings to see for visible damages. I post this for the other guys to know that measuring the voltage that way is dangerous for your EUC....you just never know when your hand will shake a bit of millimeter. I would appreciate if someone have knowledge and suggestions of what I've might damaged. Best, DS
  8. Ophicleide

    Voltmeter on EUC?

    Hi All, Although I'm a newb, I'm thinking of fitting in a digital voltmeter to my TG when it arrives, as well as the shunt mod. I'm just a little nervous about the concept of being thrown off the EUC at low voltage and it would be nice to look down and see a number instead of 1, 2, 3 or 4 lights. Has anyone done this kind of thing?
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