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Found 3 results

  1. EUCs with bigger wheel exists like 22" EUC while it does not increase stability in comparison with a 18" (am I correct?), but I think there is more need for EUCs with wider tires for better tire-road adherence and for higher torques. It increases safety because you can brake faster. It can give more acceleration without slipping and higher bending angles at startup. Last time I fell down at zero speed because I asked too much torque (bending too much) however I am only 65kg. At standstill I bowed too much forward, that I fell forward (with helmet). Since it is the most powerful EUC of the world, I had confidence on it but I had to limit my confidence. apparently 1kW nominal power and 3kW max. power (gotway msuper v2) is not enough sometimes, even for somebody of 65kg. Maybe no wider wheels are planned to produce for EUCs because of motor power limitations to 3kW max power. Is that the reason for motor power limitations? (on the other side, to be honest, riding at 30km/h on a steep hill of 30degrees, is in fact good enough as EUC power) Do somebody know if a EUC exists with a 18x4 tire? I have a 18x2.5 now. gotway msuper.
  2. I’m going give a head to head comparison between the IPS Lhotz 340 and the T680+(a.k.a. “Tank” or 151/152, or T500 which is mentioned on the box; the fine art of marketing cleary has not trickled down to IPS yet ). I’ll split the review up in several parts, as this will make it easier to comment and/or ask questions. After combing through most threads on brands, BMS, motor, battery, FP or not to FP, etc., I count myself lucky to have bought a Lhotz340Wh (older version with torque biased motor, limited to 20KmH) august last year. So why did I buy the IPS 680+? Lhotz Design: The broader (2,5inch) and larger tyre which actually makes the wheel around >1inch bigger than the one of th IPS680+ results in good traction and stability. It has relatively long pedals (22cm, you can scrape the corner of the pedals on the ground in tight turns) so you can place your feet exactly where you want them depending on what you want to do, which improves control over the wheel. The pedals are made of solid painted aluminum, they are not that thick and I tend to feel some flex (real flex or the hinges, fixtures?). Because of the paint the pedals are quite slippery when wet, this is nothing a patch of skate board tape cannot cure. The body (15cm wide) tapers off towards the edges and there’s no protruding battery housing at the top, so there’s room for the inner side of your calfs (no pressure) and you can put your feet close to the center which is great for stability and control. As a consequence the biggest pressure is on the inside of the ankles instead of the calfs. There’s here and there in strategic places soft rubber-like bright red padding (the brownread stuff on the pictures is my doing), with a high friction surface which is great for improving control over the wheel. The case has broad cut-outs front and back, so negotiation small obstacles like branches on the road poses no problem at all. The Lhotz is very sturdy by design, no rattles or creaks if you pressure it, and the handle is stainless steel so it doesn’t break even if you wheel bounces downhill without you. This all comes at a weight penalty of course: 14 kg. The round stainless tube of which the handle is made doesn’t improve the weight perception when carrying it, it’s slippery and cold in winter (I’m now using a samsonite belt to carry it). I don’t understand why IPS put a plastic slide-on charging port cover on it, which doesn’t stick for more than a minute. To save weight perhaps, really??? (I replaced it by an aftermarket metal screw cap)The battery charger is a very light box with an active cooling system (which doesn’t inspire a lot of trust, what happens if the ventilator dies?), and a US style wall plug (an EU adapter was sold separately) Verdict: Excellent Lhotz Safety: The Lhotz has enough torque to cope with my 100Kg adequately but it’s not perfect, I’ve had 2 FP, 1 overtorqueing when acceleration too fast from standstill, and 1 on a slight downward slope riding in a pit when at it’s cruising speed. When I push the weel, I can feel it (the motor?) struggling and (I believe) the BMS sometimes cuts in fractions of a second when the battery is drained too fast. I’ve experienced no BMS cut-outs though; when the batt level decreases the pedals start tilting at lower speeds and the weel starts beeping if you try to push it, even at very low speeds the tiltback is quite strong so there seems to be plenty of reserve programmed into the BMS. Therefor I would consider the Lhotz by design a relatively safe wheel, the flipside is that below 50% batt level the wheel is no fun to ride at all, and it’s game over below 30%. Verdict: Very good Lhotz Range/speed: Even with the torque biased motor, limited to 20KmH, it doesn’t feel that stable at the 17KmH cruising speed (see safety topic above). At 17KmH cruising speed, it drains 50% of the battery in about 12km. I live in a small village, and for shopping, the library, public administration, etc. I have to commute to the main village of the region which is at 5km one way. 12Km max range is not enough, driving around a bit for the shopping, windy conditions, low temp, and I barely can get home. There’s no fun in carrying a 14kg wheel, believe me, this causes me quite a bit of range anxiety. My wife already had to come and ‘save’ me by car, because I forgot the evening before that I rode just a very short distance and didn’t charge it to a full 100% (I try to avoid this because it’s not good for the battery). So if a guy of my size needs a cruising range of >15Km at a cruising speed of 20-25KmH, 340Wh is nearly not enough. Adequate. Which brings me to my choice of the T680+: Looking around, I saw no 16” alternatives from a reputed brand with such a big battery and a proven design (the KS16 is brand new). With the T680+ I hope to find (almost) the same build quality, high torque motor, and decent safety features, all this for a price of 1,129.- USD (delivery and taxes included) delivered to my door in Belgium straight from the IamIPS factory in just 12 days.
  3. Le's say you have 2 different motors both 800W (1000W peak), but one is configured for torque going max 20KmH (steeper torque/speed curve), the other one for speed going max 30KmH (less steep torque/speed curve): what would be the difference in behaviour of the wheel, any other trade-offs? I guess the one for torque will keep a heavy person more stable, especially during a bump at higher speed, and when it heats up after a longer working period it will still be able to keep it's max speed (all this should be the opposite for a speed biased wheel), or am I missing something?
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