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EUC

  1. Many of us find there's a lot of useful gear to carry with us on our rides whether commuting, exploring or on holidays. What kind of stuff do you pack in your bag or rucksack in regards to riding safety and comfort, preparing for accidents or weather changes and so forth?
  2. OK, here goes a post on a relevant topic for new riders (but perhaps, equally relevant for experienced ones), that's meant basically to be a "glossary" of threads concerning the uses, benefits, disadvantages, alternatives, etc., of using a leash/strap/whatever you want to call it. Personally, I discovered the concept of using a leash in this forum; it helped me prevent damage to my wheel while learning, but also caused an injury and nearly caused a few others, so I've seen both sides of the coin. For the sake of anyone interested in the subject, here goes a glossary of threads that explore the subject, including a wide array of opinions from every possible perspective. I've linked main threads where the subject is discussed, and offer a short description of the subjects covered in each one of them. How long did you keep on using the belt? 3 pages. Length of time worth using one. Value in terms of preventing the risk of runaway wheels to others (wheel getting away and causing damage to people/property/causing accidents), preventing one's wheel from falling into water, risk of accidentally hitting the kill switch with the leash on wheels with anti-spin buttons/sensors, leash & kill switch tests on Inmotion wheels, upsides and downsides of using a leash, how to use the strap, where to tie it (hold it or tie it to self/belt), etc. Who Uses a Safety Strap? 1 page. First page includes a survey (only 25 people have taken it. More people should, it would be more representative of the community at large). Followed by a discussion of how long riders used a strap, the difference between a learning strap and safety strap, the risks of being dragged by the leash, where and how to attach the strap, wheels escaping and causing damage/injury to others (or property), preventing one's wheel from falling into water, etc. Tethering your wheel to your leg 2 pages. Dangers, advantages & alternatives (rider safety and that of pedestrians/bystanders) to leashes. Discussion on manufacturer-implemented safety options and DIY alternatives. Practicing with the V10F - what not to do 1 page. Advantage in terms of avoiding scratches/damage to wheel, risk of hitting kill switch and accidentally causing buttplants, possibility of disabling the kill switch from the app, at what speed the kill switch deactivates when moving, use of a retractable dog leash, etc. Kingsong 16" leash/strap? 3 comments. Purpose of using a leash, safety of others, handle sturdiness in terms of leash, etc. Hope this comes in handy. Feel free to add any additional threads or comments. The more info, the better for all!
  3. TLDR Processing accelerometer to identify rough terrain allows to gradually adjust beeps, alarms and tilt-back to the riding conditions in order to provide consistent safety guarantees. It will prevent avoidable crashes, currently due to the safety margin being static: calibrated and suitable only for smooth roads. Inspiration An idea I had after watching Chooch V12 HT first ride crash, and first referenced in this reply to @Tasku Quick info and analysis about the crash: Speed reported at 37 mph / 60 mph It is (near) the max for V12 HT Tire pressure: 40 PSI Goal: protect the rim of this demo wheel sent by eWheels A bump follows a whole, which make the wheel bounce up in the air We can observe the wheel trailing behind the rider instead of staying below the rider Cause: The wheel lost forward speed by hitting the bump which converted the energy into the upwards bounce. In the air, the rider moves forward faster than the wheel which lacks traction Eventually, the rider lands ahead of the wheel instead of on top, hence crashing. My conclusion is that in step 3, the wheel doesn't have enough instantaneous torque in order to maintain the same speed as the rider during the brief moment it touches the ground. The causes for this crash are Major: a riding speed too high for the environment given the wheel speed and torque headroom. Minor: high tire pressure which makes the wheel bounce back before the stabilisation algorithm / controller / motor have a chance There was no apparent beeps or tiltback triggered. Problem to solve Alarms/Beeps and tiltback are the typical feedback mechanism the wheel has to indicate that it is near its maximum capabilities. With this information from the wheel knowing its status, the rider can modulate speed and reduce it before getting in a situation where the vehicle would not be able to provide the power needed to keep the wheel stabilized, hence introducing an over-lean and inevitable crash. From Chooch's video we learn that alarm & tiltback thresholds calibrated for safe riding on good roads are inadequate on bumpy off-road trails Despite that fact might seem obvious to everyone, in practice many riders push their wheel near the limits - wether they realize it or not. So these limits must be set according to the real world conditions. Solution description Adaptive safety margin and speed limit leverages information every self-balancing vehicle already has access to: accelerometer data in order to dynamically adjust the beeps/alerts and tilt-back thresholds. Example If the wheel identifies that the wheel is rolling on a bumpy off-road terrain, it should increase the safety margins as well as Two methods proposed to identify terrain A fairly simple algorithm could process the vertical acceleration read by the sensor, using filtering and thresholds to identify how "bumpy" is the ride. The bumpy index would go up quickly and go back down slowly in order to provide a form of smoothing over time. A neural net could run on a local micro-controller in real time and do recognition on which type of road surface is currently ridden, like asphalt, gravel, forest single track, skate park, jumping. The model should infer more parameters like: confidence and intensity of shock/bumps/vibrations in order to set the safety margin. Suspension and tire pressure Elements affecting the amount of shocks and vibrations: Higher tire pressure: increases Suspension: reduces Suspension tuning: increases or reduces Fortunately, tire pressure or suspension behavior, are taken into account automatically by this approach. It's a useful trait since they affect the safety margin requirements as Chooch describes in the crash video. Bonus: extra features Based on machine learning If we have an AI model inferring riding type, we can adjust the wheel pedals, and throttle response accordingly. Sensor fusion between accelerometer and phase current variations The amplitude of oscillations of motor phase current should also tell about how irregular the surface is, since each branch, rock, hole would create a negative or positive current spike in order to maintain flat pedals and self-balancing. Combining accelerometer data with phase current can give a more rich representation of the ground surface in multiple dimensions, in a way that can give a sense of its texture. With barometer sensor By using a barometer sensor (not available in current EUC generations), the wheel could also identify very precisely inclines and adjust its behavior in real-time when climbing, riding downhill. Example uses: Adjust power limits when climbing to avoid overheating Adjust pedals when climbing to avoid dipping too much in soft modes Adjust pedal behavior descending to avoid dipping too much backwards which makes braking using power pads difficult in softer modes Tune self-balancing behavior to maximize grip when climbing or descending on rocky terrains Mobile phone implementations As suggested by @rolis on the EUC-Technical group, phone implementations could also be explored. Mobile app alternative Provided the phone would be securely held in a pocket and not moving around erratically in a backpack, it should be possible to infer a few things about the riding conditions from the movement of the device. In turn, alarms could be emitted by the mobile app to a bluetooth speaker or standalone alerting device both for: adaptive safety margin, as offset on top of inverter load (Inmotion) and safety margin (Kingsong) provided over bluetooth data, and possibly estimated PWM for Begode and Leaperkim wheels. speed alarms, as offset on top of the real wheel speed limit (Kingsong) or offset on top of estimated max speed limit (based on voltage) for other wheels. Mobile apps could run with the idea and might implement this concept quicker than OEM in their firmware, although there is the challenge of the lower quality of the data captured. Prototyping A mobile phone strapped securely to a wheel case would be useful to: build and test a proof of concept gather accelerometer data in order to train machine learning models This would be more like an intermediary step towards a wheel implementation, a convenience, helping to iterate fast initially, and enable crowdsourcing for accelerometer data collection in diverse contexts. Implementation recommendations In order to avoid dangerous bugs, the minimum safety margin (calibrated for smooth asphalt) must always be the minimal safety margin and maximum speed limit the absolute maximum as well. These parameters must not only be calculated or inferred by a neural net, but always enforced some minimum and maximum values. In some cases, some expert riders would prefer disable the adaptive margins and limit at their own risk. Typically for race scenarios, or if the implementation has issues which were not fixed yet in a firmware update. If using neural net inference, riders should be able to record and contribute training data which can be sent to the OEM via a mobile app. I believe that a low complexity implementation, without machine learning or barometric data would already provide value. Limitations The solution proposed does not help with sporadic potholes on otherwise smooth roads Tiltback might not be effective on rough terrains (but alarms still are) Early feedback I described this idea with @Cecily Inmotion who shared it with Inmotion Engineers. They answered: So maybe we'll have an OEM implementing soon, at least in testing? I'm confident that these adaptive limits are required to make this domain of EUC safety more adaptive instead of relying solely on rider experience. I would like any EUC maker to implement these ideas, so there won't be any patents filed or any attempts to keep control. Now, what do you guys think. Does it makes sense to you too? Would you like to have this feature? Can you think of more improvements or drawbacks?
  4. Apps can tell the when a wheel is beeping on most Begode, Inmotion and Kingsong products. On Begode, the beeper status is indicated as a boolean, on Inmotion it's when the "Inverter Load" is at 100%, and KingSong when the "Safety Margin" reaches 0%. LeaperKim and the Veteran wheels: Sherman, Abrams and Sherman max are missing this crucial capability which allows to relay the beeps over bluetooth speakers or haptics like via smart watches. However, there is unused room in the data packets sent over BLE, so that could absolutely be added. I've contacted @Linnea Veteran over Facebook in public and Instagram as private message, to describe the value of this real-time information and how effective it is to prevent over-lean crashes when riders don't hear the beeps. Nice to see Linnea is in this forum too! I hope that Leaperkim will catch-up with other brands on this must-have safety feature, now that it is supported by @Seba's EUC World, DarknessBot, @enaon's eucWatch and my own EUC Alarm app.
  5. Intro... Over the past several months, I have gone through bicycle tail lights, LED strip lights, and flashlights -- trying to figure out what the most convenient, yet effective safety light would be for me to carry on my person during evening/night rides. The bicycle tail lights were cumbersome and limited in the way I could mount them to myself or my bag. LED strip lights required me to carry an additional battery pack, and fiddling with settings that were not easy or quick to navigate. Flashlights were difficult to mount, and had a bad throw pattern for people following me. There were seemingly no *great* solutions for personal safety lights, that would give ample warning to those behind me that there is someone on the road, without blinding them out, or being a burden for me to use. Then I found the Guardian Angels Devices! I had been looking at Guardian Angel Devices for quite a while, however I never bit the bullet because I was skeptical about spending $100 on a safety light. Well, I purchased a hard shell back protecting backpack, the Point65 Boblbee 25L backpack, and I decided to deck it out with something that wasn't as cheesy as just running LED strips on the outside of that beautiful shell. I wanted something streamlined. Something highly visible from both sides, and behind me, easy to turn on and cycle through the different modes. Something that had an internal battery with a high runtime, and has a solid build construction. Lastly, I wanted something that I could easily swap from my backpack, to my shirt, pants, the EUC itself, etc. (They have great mounting options, and it's all based around super-strong neodymium magnets.) The Guardian Angel Elite ticked all of those boxes. So, I went ahead and placed the order. You'll find the review at the bottom of this post. How to Purchase... Purchase the Guardian Angel at https://www.guardianangeldevices.com/p/elite-series-white-red-yellow-wearable-safety-light/?code=1196&campaign=AsReviewed (Or use Coupon Code: 1196CLIP for free shipping and a free clip.) * Disclaimer: While I did pay full price to purchase this product. I do receive a small kickback if you purchase using my referral link, or coupon code. All proceeds go towards more gadgets to review in the future! Thank you in advance Video Review
  6. Hey there, as many of you, I'm a total sucker for EUCs. I think there's no better way to get around. But I don't have to tell you the benefis, I'm here for the real drawback: Safety. I've read many stories about cutoffs and the resulting danger and injuries. To be honest, after several 1000km, I'm thinking of changeing to a bike or something. I know, someday my ride will reach the end of its lifespan and I will most likely faceplant that day. Hopefully with no car behind me. Honestly, I don't get why manufacturers don't tackle this problem. The segway PT solved that problem nealy 20 years ago. They got full redundancy down to the windings of the motor. My collegue sold over 200 of them, and not one of them ever had a cutoff. There was Segways reported with over 100000km when I remember correctly. (before it got aquired by Ninebot that threw all the good technology out the window for profit margins) This thread is mostly to raise attention for manufacturers that saftey is something customers want. At least for me, I would pay a very good extra for real safety. As I am CTO of a company that designs safety-critical parts (certified by european norms), I have a pretty good idea of what I'm demanding. I would be happy to help or give advice, if needed. Designing something safe can be done even with a small team and a market that is still at the beginning. If you read this and also want badly want a EUC with real safety, reply and like this post.
  7. Assuming you got helmet, pads, all the protective gear, there is possibility that something is going to happen out of your control (like wheel cut off) and you are flying on your shoulder or landing on tarmac with you hip and dislocate shoulder, break collar bone or break your hip joint, the injury you cannot really protect yourself with any kind of gear. So besides all the good stuff this is one really unpleasant things that would stop many people from owning the wheel..... unless you can develop some sort of muscle memory to handle that. For example i know how to fall from skis safely without any injury, even better, my muscles know because every time i fall I do it the same way. Perhaps there is a way to fall from the wheel that for the big part eliminates risk of getting into ambulance and i may train this way somehow prior to getting into risky stuff. I could not find any materials on the subject. Does anybody have any experience here? Or any useful information?
  8. Hi guys! From the documents released today, I'm considering the Inmotion V12 as my next wheel. (currently: Inmotion V10F + Kingsong 16X) However the the V10, V10F and V11 have a flaw in their alarm design, preventing it to ring more often than every 5s. And so much can go wrong during 5 seconds, it's enough to go from standing still to almost max speed. It's a really bad flaw that can lead to over power or over-lean of the the wheel during the 5 seconds the alarm is muted, due to any combination of: acceleration speed incline It was identified by analysing a V11 crash and I reproduced it for demonstration purposes in this video: Now, the V12 goes up to 70 km/h. An overlean at this speed is much more dangerous than the moderate 35+ km/h of the V10F. Please 🙏, anyone testing the V12: can you check (safely) if this issue is fixed? I'll be happy to help with testing methodology 👍 References: Post about this video EUChristian V11 crash due to this issue
  9. How do we know if hoverboards are safe.
  10. Hi guys, After having an EUC for 3 years, I still have bits to learn. I currently have my first wheel; MSuper V3 and my current wheel; MSX. I have my first two alarms and tiltback disabled on my MSX and haven't taken it to top speed at all, therefore, I haven't heard the warning beeps for my last alarm. What I was wondering is at 100 percent battery, it's possible to hit the last alarm at say 30mph (Not sure what it's set by default) and slow down, but if I had say 50 percent battery, would the alarm still come on at 30mph or relevant to the output power, warning you from overpowering? Is it just speed based alarms? Will the wheel allow you to overpower it, or will it always beep depending on what output it's giving? How do you know how much power output you have left, relevant to what battery percentage you have left? It's really hard to write what I'm asking haha, hopefully it comes across okay and someone can give me a solid answer. The scenario is, when I'm riding at full battery, I'm not concentrating fully on speed as I know the alarm will sound if I go too fast, whereas when the battery power is lower, I take note and slow down as I don't want to Overpower the wheel and not hear an alarm. I'm hoping the last alarm sounds when you're close to maximum output and not a set speed. If this wasn't the case, riding at 40 percent battery would be really dangerous as the wheel has less to give and possibly not even reach the speed your alarm is set at. Please can someone firstly fathom out what I'm trying to say and possibly come up with a clear answer! Thank you! Liam.
  11. I want to try these monitors for a few reasons. The act of using a pressure gauge on a properly inflated tire oftentimes deflates it enough to require pumping. I want to be able to check my pressure "at a glance". If I'm heading out to run errands or just to grab a bite I have two choices; a commuter and a day tripper. If the monitor on my commuter shows that it's low I'll just use my much larger wheel and wait to inflate my commuter when I have more time. These monitors have three indicators. Green means that the tire is between 80.1% and 100%. Yellow is between 75.1 and 80%. Red is 75.0% of lower. The problem is that an indicator rated at 34 PSI wouldn't trigger the yellow indicator until it's at 27.2 PSI or lower. This is WAY lower than an EUC rider would want to go before inflating. These are meant for cars that have a much larger margin of error. But, it's my belief that Excel spreadsheets can solve the world's problems and it was in that spirit that I fired it up and got to work. Here's what I did. I charted the PSI levels of the indicators of every monitor. And what I discovered is that I could get a very useful range by choosing a monitor with a much higher rating. GREEN still means "safe" (though it will only ever use the lower end of its range). YELLOW is the new RED. I will inflate at YELLOW. Red is only useful to show when it's ridiculously low. For example; a rider that likes 35 PSI can choose a 40 or a 42. A 40 will pop YELLOW at 32 PSI or lower. A 42 will pop yellow at 33.6 PSI or lower (a very tight tolerance). So, if you're okay riding down to 32 then go with a 40. If you want to know when you dropped 1.4 PSI then go with a 42. The column that has target PSI is only my estimation; it is not my recommendation for you. Verify your choice by looking at the YELLOW column and determining the trigger that is acceptable for you. Keep in mind that these work by depressing the valve stem and that removing or installing them can deflate the tire somewhat. So, this will explain why the pressure might be even lower than you expected when you go to inflate it. It will also explain why a monitor popped YELLOW just after you inflated your tire. For instance, if you ride at 35 and have a monitor that pops YELLOW at 33.6 then just putting these on can deflate them enough to pop it. Frustrating, but manageable. I just inflate to 36, knowing it will settle at 35 or so. With a little trial and error in the beginning you can lock in a process that works for you every time. Also, temperature affects PSI. In general, tires lose or gain 1 PSI (pound per square inch) for every 10℉ increase in temperature. Theoretically, your tires could gain 2 PSI over the course of the day if the temperature rises 20℉ - a real possibility in many parts of the country. The reverse is also true (a temp drop can decrease PSI). Check your pressure before riding and in the same environment you'll be riding. Hope this helps.
  12. I have been reselling E unicycles in South Africa for a few years and in my experience it seems that pretty much all the crashes I know of have been caused by riders pushing the wheels beyond their specified capabilities (ie: simply riding or accelerating too fast). I have been riding for about 4 years mostly on the highest performance e unicycles I can get my hands and often within 5-10% of their max performance capacity, but never pushing into that last 5%, as it seems senseless to go a few kmph faster to take the potential risk from what seems almost non-existent risk, to being on a fine line (especially if the batter is less than 50% charged) in which bodily harm and fairly serious injury is almost guaranteed if one crosses that line, which I don't think is such a grey area, if one pays attention to the beeps of speed settings and develops a bit of a feel for how much power the wheel they are riding comfortably has. Essentially all the wipeouts I know of at speed of all the wheels I have sold have happened when riders neglect this fine line and try push for a little too much performance. Do others have this same experience of a pretty negligible amount of crashes coming from any actual failure in the wheel (electronics etc)?
  13. I am spending roughly half of my time on the EUC with intentionally learning and improving riding skills (which makes it some +500h and +5000km of deliberately practicing). I like to believe that many if not most of these skills are relevant for riding safety. In this context I started to wonder about skills that would (have some chance to) prevent falls and broken bones and are potentially available too many or most riders. In this thread I am not so much interested in discussing any possible or relevant safety measures and their effectiveness (like awareness and attention, underconfidence, reducing speed, learning to fall, wearing safety gear,...), but in riding skills that can prevent falls and broken bones and specifically the following questions: Q1: Are there specific riding skills that prevent falls (and broken bones)? I think the answer is quite obviously yes. Beginners are much more likely to fall and, when put in the same situation as an advanced rider at the same speed, will hurt themselves badly with quite some likelihood. Q2: Which specific riding skills prevent falls (and broken bones)? Q3: Which specific riding skills that prevent falls (and broken bones) do not come naturally with time? Q4: What are the specific riding skills that prevent falls (and broken bones) that many riders would be willing and able to acquire (or to improve)? I am pretty sure that training for half a year every day for half an hour is not an investment that many people are willing or able to make, that is, the path to the skills I am looking for must be somewhat cheaper. For example, training while on a regular trip anyway, or training half an hour for a week or two. One simple example that comes into my mind: managing longitudinal grooves. When I am not in a hurry and at moderate speed, I often try to scan the surface for longitudinal grooves and ride over them in the most vicious way I can think of. Like this, I get more and more acquainted to and relaxed with this particular challenge. I have seen @Mike Sacristan suggest something along these lines in a vid as well. Q5: THE live saving habit is flexible knees. To be effective, a reflex to bent the knees must be much faster than any consciously taken action can be (hence it is called a reflex). What is the shortest path to acquire flexible knees? I have lately started to consciously always keep the knees in front of my (conceived) center of gravity. This looks like a promising recipe, keeps the knees bent and is easy to do in principle (though it does take a bit of continuous muscle work). How could we actually know its effectiveness? When unexpectedly separating from the wheel, to prevent the body to get into a forward rotation may be the single most important aspect to prevent broken bones. Keeping the knees in front of the CoG should make a body rotation (much?) less likely to be initiated? I also find the conception of moving the wheel (back and forth) under the body quite helpful. This makes me better aware of how bent the knees are: with straightened knees it feels quite uneasy and uncomfortable to move the wheel back and forth under the body.
  14. Hello everyone, I have a solowheel inmotion V10 and noticed that it's been getting kind of hot between my legs. I live in Denver and a few days out of the week have been around 98 degrees. It's mostly dry heat out here, but I was just a little worried if I should be riding when it's this hot out. This morning was 64 degrees, and when I checked my temp, it was at 102 degrees. What is too hot for a V10?
  15. EUC Safety Gear and Etiquette courtesy of Adam U.
  16. Hey guys, I've seen a lot of posts/videos that the beeps from ecus can't be heard that good at high speeds with a helmet on?! As i'm getting my gotway m super x my idea is to add a more powerful speaker so i can hear the beeps real good. Does anybody have a clue what power the board outputs to the stock speaker?
  17. This was the best case scenario today: I impressively learned that I still can't do it. I hit a speed bump that I hadn't seen at all (not yet painted, hence black in black, and me focussing somewhere else) at maybe 15km/h and boom, belly on the floor. Nothing serious happened. A small hole in the jacket and I can distinctively feel a bruised elbow and knee, compellingly reminding me that I still can't do it. I have practiced going over this type of speed bump for a while at various speeds, even without looking, but of course always prepared and knowing what was coming. Yet it didn't help (yet). This lesson raises the interesting question: how to train being prepared for the unexpected? Otherwise, any good physical reminder to stay careful is somewhat the best scenario possible.
  18. Hi, Here goes a topic that I think is definitely worth posting about. My partner is a physical therapist, and after I had a minor knee-tendon injury during the first few days of riding, she mentioned that warming up and stretching wouldn’t be a bad idea for EUC riding, since to a great extent, it involves maintaining the same posture for extended periods of time, which can lead to muscle, tendon and ligament fatigue and stiffness, which in turn, makes one much more prone to non-impact injuries in the event of falling/jumping off the wheel, or can potentially make them worse. For example, falling off the wheel and landing on just one leg can involve a considerable impact, and muscle and tendon stiffness (due to the riding stance and lack of stretching) will make an injury (sprain, tendinitis, etc.) much more likely, or worse than it would have been if you’d warmed up and stretched to maintain flexibility. @meepmeepmayer and @Mono mentioned that they hadn't seen this topic brought up in the forum, so I had my partner walk me through the biodynamics of EUC-riding and give me a few warm-up and stretching exercises to help minimise the over-stress that certain parts of the body are subjected to when riding. Bear in mind that a great deal more muscles, tendons and ligaments are in play while riding than I’ll list here and to cover them all would involve a lengthy, multiple installment publication (longer than this one ) that I doubt anyone would be interested in reading, so for the sake of brevity and pragmatism, I asked her to narrow down the list to the soft tissues subjected to the most stress and most prone to injury. BEFORE RIDING, you should ideally warm up a little. The best and most simple exercises you can do, that pretty much cover most of the muscles you’ll be using (legs, hips, core), are: Squats: (If you’re in a hurry, 10 squats are better than nothing, but 15 is better) Marching in place / high jog: (10 with each leg should do; for a more thorough warm-up, aim for 20) As part of the warm-up, some joint movement is also beneficial. Some of the most useful exercises are: Standing hip circles: (5-10 repetitions in each direction for each leg; the broader the circles the better) Circular knee warm-up: (5-10 repetitions in each direction) Circular ankle stretching: Aside from the warm-up, some LIGHT stretching can go a long way in terms of preventing potential injuries. I’ll detail the different soft tissue “components” of the musculoskeletal system that are stressed the most/more likely to be injured, how they come into play in terms of EUC-riding, and how to stretch them. IMPORTANT: Plantar fasciae (foot arch): (aka the part that hurts like hell when you’re beginning) Involved in base stance (the more forward your foot is positioned, the more they’re stressed) and acceleration. Stretching exercises: Tibialis anterior (muscle and tendon): Used for braking and when leaning back (e.g., going downhill). Stretching: Achilles tendon: Used while in base stance and when accelerating. Stretching: Calf muscle and soleus: Used in base stance and when accelerating. Stretching: Calf: Soleus (deep calf muscle): Hamstring (posterior thigh muscles & tendons): Used while in base stance and while accelerating. Stretching: Quadriceps: Under the greatest stress when braking and leaning back, but also tense (albeit less so) when in the base stance and accelerating (to balance out the force being applied by the hamstring). Stretching: If having trouble balancing (which you shouldn’t, you’re damn EUC-riders!), you can use one arm to support yourself on a wall, rail, fence, etc.. If you don’t feel any tension on your quads in the position shown in the video, pull your leg further back, so the leg being stretched isn’t parallel to your other leg and your knee is further back (keep your back straight while you do this). I recommend holding your foot from your ankle. Doing the same exercise but pulling from the base of your toes is another way to stretch your anterior tibialis). Hip adductors (inner thigh): Used to press legs inward against the wheel and for turning. Stretching: (Sexy Legs Workout...potentially sexist/objectifying, I know...but what can I say? I looked at several different videos for the same exercise and she’s the one that explained it the best. Seriously.) Hip abductors (outer thigh): Used mainly for turning. Stretching: In short, there are tons more muscles, tendons and ligaments involved (as in everything), but these are the main and most important ones. If you’re in a hurry, the most important ones to stretch are hamstrings, calves, quads and anterior tibialis. To stretch hamstrings + calves, follow the first exercise in this video. Just lean forward to stretch your hamstrings (with your foot relaxed), and do the same thing but pulling the end of your foot towards you to stretch your calves. For quads and anterior tibialis, refer to the comment below the quadriceps stretching video. Additional tips: When falling, your reflex reaction is to use your arms to break the fall. Protective gear helps prevent injuries from the impact part of a fall, but as others have pointed out (in regen-related threads), energy can neither be created nor destroyed, only transferred into another form. Meaning, in this case, that the abrasion resistance that wrist and elbow guards provide allows you to slide, thus reducing the intensity of the impact, but also transferring that force upward, towards your shoulder. This creates a high risk of shoulder injuries and dislocations (which are painful as hell), so it’s definitely worth strengthening the muscles involved in keeping the shoulder in place: mainly deltoids (rear and front), pectorals, and the latissimus dorsi. Strengthening biceps and triceps isn't a bad idea either. (All of the links above are for strengthening exercises). It's also important to point out that you should always stretch after strengthening exercises, as flexibility is just as important as strength, and not doing so will lead to muscle stiffness. And lastly, the better shape you're in, the less prone you are to injuries. And so this doesn’t turn into a multi-page soliloquy, I’d say those are pretty much the basics (glutes and abs also play an important role in balancing and forward/backward motion, for example, but are unlikely to be injured when EUC-riding or lead to unrelated injuries). All the same, if anyone thinks I missed something important (perhaps your partner, @Elzilcho), don’t hesitate to add it, nor to correct me anywhere I'm wrong or suggest alternative, easier/better exercises I know it’s a drag to think you have to do all of these every time you want to hop on your wheel, but these should actually only take 5-6' before riding and 10-15' max. post-riding. Otherwise, an abbreviated version, or stretching them at another time several times a week (after exercising; avoid intense stretching of muscles that haven’t been previously warmed up) is definitely better than nothing, and can go a long way in terms of preventing a broad range of injuries (particularly ankles and knees). In any case, I hope this is useful (it feels nice to be able to give back to the community after pestering all of you with questions since I joined the forum). Happy (and safe) riding! Sidenote: I’ve tried to be as neutral as possible and find an appropriate "male/female/elderly physical therapist" ratio for the Youtube stretching exercises, because I feel it's the right thing to do, and because I know the subject of posting content of bikini-clad women and scarcely-dressed female EUC-riders has been discussed in this forum. My apologies to those hoping for more cleavage & yoga pants
  19. List here different maneuvers here to make yourself a better rider or to have safe fun....
  20. We live in an area where there are lots of steep climbs. They are not really steep, but they have given me problems with unexpected push-back from day 1 with the MiniPRO. There is little data available on exactly how much power the MiniPRO motors can deliver, and how this translates into speed on either flat or sloping surfaces. The best source of information was shown to me by JoJo, it is a blog about the MiniPRO development cycle at Ninebot: http://bbs.ninebot.cn/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=4100 Google translate produces this for a key section of the blog: "We have done a lot of power test experiments. The results show that when the weight of 100kg people climbs 15 degrees at 5-6kmh, the power demand of the whole vehicle will reach 400 watts or more. If the slope is slightly accelerated, the power will rise to 800 watts. The tester weighing 120kg may reach 500 watts when driving at 20kmh, and the output power of the car may reach 1000 watts to 1200 watts when it accelerates to 30kmh." So, I read that as saying a 120kg person riding on flat ground will need 500W of motor power to reach 20Km/h, and 1000W-1200W to reach 30Km/h. The continuous limit of the motors is "350w / short time 1050W, and the maximum torque of a single motor is .. more than 35Nm." So the firmware has to decide when to start pushback whenever the continuous output power being used is greater than 700W, or else the motors will overheat,and likely the battery pack too. Here is the 19 degrees street that the MiniPRO design team used as their reference for the "World's Steepest Street" But they eventually decided on planning for a 15 degree slope, less steep than this one. They planned "100kg people climbs 15 degrees at 5-6kmh, the power demand of the whole vehicle will reach 400 watts or more. If the slope is slightly accelerated, the power will rise to 800 watts." This represents the totality of the engineering specifications I have been able to find about the MiniPRO When I measure myself, a new N3M320 MiniPRO which has not yet done 50Km starts to push-back at around 9Km/h on the steepest steady hill I have around here, which is 6.5 degrees. I weigh 94Kg (in riding boots). I see no difference between firmwares 1.1.7 and 1.1.9 except that 1.1.9 has the gentlest pushback cycle (it beeps a warning before making you jump off ). With 1.4.1 it is tough to even reach 9Km/h because it is continually adjusting the push-back point. An N3M260 which has long-ago reached its 50Km transition can reach 11-12 Km/h (with v1.1.9 FW) before beeping and starting kickback. The max speed is the same whether I am using the smaller 243Wh or the full 310Wh battery. So there clearly is a safety margin which the firmware holds in reserve to try and preserve vehicle integrity. Yet how the firmware implements this push-back reserve is (IMO) flawed, as it also seems to limit the ability of the MiniPRO to handle potholes and pebbles until the 50Km mark is reached. I will be watching very carefully as my new N3M320 reaches that target, and then do a complete reassessment of the vehicle's hill-climbing ability... Finally, I note that the older N3M260 had the 90/65-6.5 knobbly off-road tyres fitted, running at 15psi, while the new N3M320 has slightly smaller 'off-road' tyres, which should have given it an edge in torque, but didn't. Only when I get to 50Km will I be able to decide how the firmware handles safety reserves when larger tyres are fitted - there is a possibility that the slope climbing speed limit is set by a firmware algorithm, and not by the motor power exceeding 700W. Please share any data and experiences you have had negotiating slopes with the MiniPRO.
  21. I see many videos of unprotected riders, as well as riders who wear differing amounts of protective armor depending on the ride they're planning. What's the minimum safe amount for a low speed ride? I recommend this as a test. Take your wheel outside on the pavement. Stand next to a wall. Lean the back of the wheel against the wall. Don't power up your wheel. Mount your wheel then gently push off. Try to hold your balance, but feel free to fall forward and try to catch yourself when you no longer can. This is what falling off a wheel would feel like at no speed. Any forward momentum at all would make it much much worse. If you are able to get up without injury, then your protection works. If you break your wrists, ribs, shoulders or smash your face, perhaps it would be time to order some better protection once you're back from the hospital. Not brave enough to try? Can't say I blame you. Maybe think about it next time you take a low speed ride....
  22. I was looking for recommendations for a headlamp that would fit well on my helmet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O5E72KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Ideally the headlamp would be rechargeable, have different light modes (like strobe effect) and also a rear light for added visibility. Here's one I've found on Amazon, but before purchasing I wanted to try and get some feedback from the forum to see what others may be using or have for input. Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/Mifine-Waterproof-hands-free-headlight-Rechargeable/dp/B016Q8G9OU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495632717&sr=8-4&keywords=headlamp+biking
  23. Hi guys, I've been wheeling around now for about 10 months and have a couple of queries about my MSuper V3. I've become a very confident rider now and I have my first two alarms disabled. Does anyone know what speed the third alarm will come on at? I've not heard it yet. Also, how is your top speed affected by battery power? I'm quite cautious whilst riding at around 20% (Normally to get home). Any advice is greatly received. Thank you Liam
  24. Problem: if a MOSFET fails on your EUC when in use, you faceplant. And MOSFET failures are most commonly under load, which often means high speed, which means a significant safety hazard. Solution: Stick two control boards in there, so that if one board stops working the other can take over. New problem: MOSFETs tend to fail short- so the second control board won't be able to drive the motor, it'll just be driving (at least one phase) current into a dead MOSFET. And this is, as far as I know, basically where things are- more reliable wheels just have higher-specced FETs, more in parallel, better cooling, more conservative limits, etc. (Where you do see dual-board redundancy, it seems mostly meant to protect against things like gyro failures, software bugs, etc, or in some cases (like on the Ninebot One S[12]) two redundant battery packs too, providing some protection against BMS issues and bad cells.)). So, is this the best that can be done? I think there's a better way. Shown is a simplified driver bridge for one phase of a motor. In normal operation, board B does almost nothing (it's possible board B could be a separate, smaller board with only the motor driver components, to save cost). However, it communicates with board A over I2C or something, and detects when M1 or M2 fail. Periodically, it tests itself and monitors board A. If M1 or M2 fails open-circuit, board A deactivates itself and board B uses M3 and M4 to replace M1 and M2, maintaining a stable ride. If M1 or M2 fail short-circuit, though, board A *hopefully* deactivates itself (it doesn't actually need to do this, which adds a bit more reliability), and board B *also* deactivates itself (turning all FETs off). Then board B turns M3 on if M2 failed, or M4 on if M1 failed, until it detects its current draw fall to zero. By doing so, it shorts the battery pack through (without loss of generality) M1, F1, and M4. Since M1 is acting like a short, this means F1 and M4 together see almost the entire battery pack short circuit current (approx. 1 gazillion amps) which very rapidly blows F1. We have now reduced this case to the open-circuit case- M1 and M2 are totally disconnected from the motor, and the ride can continue. (In practice, this condition occurring would trigger a controlled shutdown of the wheel (beeps, tiltback after a small delay, followed by refusal to power back on until repaired.) This solution provides redundancy against an open or short failure of any one MOSFET. If F1 is placed at the end of the motor cables near the motor, and two redundant motor cables are used, separated physically, it also protects against melting motor cables. If two fuses are used in a Y configuration, and if board A performs the same checks on board B as board B does to A, a short-circuit failure from M3 or M4 (while board A operates normally) can also be handled. However, since M3 and M4 pass no current during normal operation (and are likely on a separate, very cool, heatsink), the chance of them failing under normal operation should be minimal. It's important that board B check M3 and M4 during the wheel's POST, to ensure that they're still working (since otherwise a failure of them would be silent, not noticeable, until you need redundancy and don't have it.) If two redundant battery packs are used, board A and B can coordinate in normal operation to share the load between them (and blow the fuse to isolate a malfunctioning board and its battery in the case of a failure), or, possibly, a separate board could handle balancing load between the two packs and isolating a misbehaving pack. Some problems remain. Notably, the fuse needs to blow, and blow fast; at a huge overcurrent (10x rated capacity) a fuse blows in something like 25ms, which might be a bit of a jolt to the rider but shouldn't cause a faceplant. Also, M3 might fail when the battery's shorted through it- just when it's needed the most- to prevent this, some sort of relay might work, but finding relays with sufficiently high current ratings and low on resistance in reasonably small packages is difficult. Thoughts?
  25. I hope this is a useful poll to learn more about which protection gear forum members typically use and how serious injuries from EUCing are.
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