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Nylonove Pedals for KingSong 16X - used, great condition. Bought from Hulaj Market (March 2022) Retails $245 Awesome Lightweight Pedals with excellent studded grip for your shoes. No Shipping. Local pickup only. Can meet in or around Great Neck, NY (Long Island / Queens Area)

Hello EUC family! I'm preparing for the eventual delivery of the Sherman S and Mten4. I'd like to get some protective accessories for both wheels now or when they become available later. It would be useful to have a comprehensive list of US dealers and parts manufacturers. Of course, worldwide dealers should be included too. I'm not trying to start a discussion of which dealers are good or bad, I just want to check them all because so far I've found their inventories of parts widely varied in size and availability. Here's my list so far: ewheels.com eevees.com alienrides.com euco.us revrides.com grizzlapads.com clarkpads.com ChrisChaput on Facebook for spiked pedals

Hello, I have designed these footplates last year and was successfully using them so why not to share with you guys. I would never go back to original rubber / grip tape. It is not a thing of comfort but the thing of safety. Had a few falls directly because of not having enough grip. Now the foot wont move even in heavy riding and some mild snow / mud on shoes. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5446843 Happy and safe riding!

edit: changed title of thread from "Show me your Gotway RS mods" to better represent what the thread has turned into First of all i have the RS HS v1 with low pedals and the original software. I don't have much going other than some custom pads i made out of the default bulky aliexpress pads which i cut up, shaved the back part off for more aggressive braking and padded up with some baby padding i got as a free gift when buying my wheel. It's not beautiful but i don't think it's too ugly either... Really i'm just not a fan of the look of pads i think eucs always look sexier without pads but i prefer function over form so i don't mind as they add soo much to the controllability. As you will see from the pictures i also have my left pad farther forward than my right as my left leg is my dominant and i use it for acceleration and my submissive right leg is farther back (entire heel off the pedal) and so is the pad. Beyond that i have a pedal angle of +8 degrees (heel lower, toes higher) mostly for better braking which has improved a lot from that change. (by calibrating euc not from modding my pedals) I have some Nylonove pedals on their way too. I want to get some kind of protection for the front of the RS as this is easily the point that sees the most damage in a highspeed crash and i have seen things like this front bumper and rear bumper but maybe i will end up just doing foamy material+ duct tape as it's not really too pretty to start with and having it printed is expensive. Initially i thought i would be getting the new higher pedal hangers but honestly these are great and i don't feel they are low as i don't really off-road coming from a v3 and tesla v1 with similar height i am used to this and it has become preference. I do get the occasional scrape when doing fast corners but never get stuck or have an accident as a result. I am thinking about potentially getting the newer mainboard with the new software at some point as low speed turning is really affected by pedal dip but beyond that i have not noticed any dips in other circumstances. I really need to find a mod for louder warning beeps that isn't just moving the piezo closer to the rider i need it to blast the 80% warning at me.

V10F has nice big pedals -- but the grip is shit if they get wet. I found this mod somewhere else and decided to give it a go. It is working great, maybe too good -- I use to be able to adjust me feet easily if I did not like my initial starting positions, mostly my left foot as I start with my right mounted. But now they dont to move. I have to now lift my foot up more to adjust. As with all changes it will take some time to acclimatize. I have tested it at the bike/skate park where I do most of my aggressive turning which places the most twist pressure between the feet and pedals, and the feet stay planted well. I used a sharp pointy thingy to poke the initial holes from underneath - this allowed to get the proper spacing by just poking in the approx middle of honey cone shape. I used a black Sharpy marker to mark the hole on the top with the pointy thingy still in because the hole disappear once it is pulled out. Then I put each screw in getting each one tight but not so much as to strip the holes but still tight as possible. There should be some of the screw thread showing on the underside. Once all the screws went in, hot glue was applied to them, hopefully preventing them from coming out when under twist pressure - this is the reason for some thread on the underside showing so the hot glue has something to grab -- the rubber is not very strong so something will be needed to hold them in. Hot glue is what I had on hand. I have no idea how the screws will hold up over time. I figure if I ride this winter the salt will rust them - time will tell! After riding for a couple days now, the grip is so so much better than before and the screws so far holding tight. I cant feel the screws there under the shoes but I sure know they are working. Without a solid stance and good grip the potential for an accident increases substantially. I hope this info can help others with this good wheel overcome this short coming.

Quick question for you guys, do the Inmotion V11 honeycomb pedals work on a Veteran Sherman? If so, would you guys recommend them over the stock sherman Pedals?

If anyone has some, or can make some, spiked pedals for the 16x I would consider buying them. Ideally I'm looking for something similar to Teknika4 spiked pedals, but I don't think they are in stock. I'd also buy something like a hex pedal with spikes and holes in them if available. Let me know exactly what kind they are and pictures if possible and reach out to me. I'm in NYC. Thank you

I'm looking for a set of the smaller original pedals that typically come stock on the MTen3 that has the red lines on the grip tape. I'm trying to find a set for my grandson to use on the MTen3 and thought that maybe someone here may have switched some out and had set the take-off's (the original pedals) to the side or threw them in a box in the closet. ALSO, WHICH GOTWAY EUC MODEL PEDALS ARE COMPATIBLE WITH THE MTEN3? PLMK ASAP. Thank you.

I'm looking for a set of the smaller original pedals that typically come stock on the MTen3 that has the red lines on the grip tape. I'm trying to find a set for my grandson to use on the MTen3 and thought that maybe someone here may have switched some out and had set the take-off's (the original pedals) to the side or threw them in a box in the closet. ALSO, WHICH GOTWAY EUC MODEL PEDALS ARE COMPATIBLE WITH THE MTEN3? PLMK ASAP. Thank you.

Greetings fellow EUC fans. This video from Vee really inspired me: Its a bout spiked foot pedals for better grip, and boy do I need go get a grip. I want to buy these and I know rehab1 makes em, maybe other producers? Anyways where can I get these pedals for my MSX and soon for my Monster too. Maybe even the suspension wheel Ill get in a year or so? Sorry is "studded" er better word for this? Looks like the kind of things they use in Norway for EUC and MTB etc. (YES they do have studded EUCs in Norway they are used to snow and Ice and you really cant hold Norwegians back.)

So I am quite intrigued by the Nylonove pedals. They seem like they would give you awesome grip and remove some of the fear of slipping off the pedals with a deep carve or high speeds. They also look pretty cool. What is the experience here with these pedals and similar ones like the Hextech or Inmotion hex pedals in terms of safety? I’m worried about being able to step off at will. I know @Rehab1 had an accident attributable to spiked pedals. The nylonove have adjustable studs that go from 2 mm to 4 mm. Do you all think at the lowest setting these pedals can be dangerous in an accident by keeping you stuck to the pedals? Just trying to gauge opinions on here before jumping in with a purchase.

So after about 40 miles on the V8 I could tell that my toes did not appreciate hanging out unsupported. I wanted to buy a pair of larger pedals but at $170 for the nice ones and $110 for the questionable V10 pedals, I figured I'd try making my own pair. They're 1/2 inch aluminum pivots welded to 1/4 in thick aluminum plates, cut to the rough outline of my shoe. It was the first time I used a spool gun to weld aluminum so they're not very pretty. I preheated the metal and after welding, placed them in an oven at 400F for about 30 minutes and left to cool inside the oven. Next morning they fit fairly well, one has a slight misalignment but works once the pin is installed. Then milled the 1/4 inch plate to get the resting angle proper (always leave a little extra so you don't come up short) and covered with 3M safety walk. The first quick test in the parking lot at lunch was SO MUCH BETTER! I have better control and can totally feel the better support up front! If anyone wants info on the machining let me know. It's been a fun project that should let me go much farther. A few more shots.

You may have seen pictures recently of Gotway's new pedals. There isn't much information available right now, but here's what we know... (Read more)

The foot plates on my monster broke, so right now am using the msuper v3 foot plate And for me they are too small, I experience a lot of foot fitigue that I didn’t experience with the original monster foot plates and I constantly have to adjust. so am asking the Uni community to help me pick the best foot plate for the monster, one that is durable and comfortable, thanks guys.

Hi guys, I ordered a set of the Z Team HK Pedals on 03.27.2019 and they arrived 04.07.2019. The communication with the seller was great, I ordered via PayPal, got a tracking number and I think it was UPS that delivered them. I've been riding on them for several weeks now to get a full review going with pros / cons, I also needed to try them with different shoes because the angled ends of the pedals changed what I would want to wear while riding it. For anyone wondering: I paid for these pedals with my own money, I'm not affiliated with Z Team HK, and I'm a US size 10 in shoes! First impressions, straight out of the box the pedals are nice and thick stainless steel with a grippy matte finish. Included are two strong magnets to swap out the stock magnets, allen wrench, extended pedal padding, and screws (Loctite for the screws not included). When I ordered it there were no instructions / videos online on how to put everything together but I figured it out pretty easily from pictures, since then they've put up an instructional video on Facebook. The Z Team HK guys decided to laser engrave their logo on the top of the pedal. As of right now they don't offer any other styles / colors. If you won't like how it looks you can always stick sandpaper on top of it. I sprayed mine with Truck Bed Liner then applied the screws in with blue Loctite. After installing them I couldn't get my new pedals to close properly, it looks like the extended ends hit against the Lower Protective Pads. A couple of quick passes with an Exacto knife created an opening for them and the pedals now fit perfectly. And if you guys haven't figured it out by now, my Z10 is a daily commuter that's been bashed a few times so I wasn't too worried about the overall aesthetics of things. However, if you want to keep your Z10 looking nice, be aware the Lower Protective Pads will interfere with the pedals. I spoke with Z Team HK and they are aware this was an issue but I couldn't find mentions of it anywhere on their pages. Converse, Vans, Skate Shoe Ride Review: This part I'm going to review the pedals when using shoes with flat outsoles that were mostly flexible. The pedal pins really lock the shoe in place horizontally, there is no slipping effect when carving or hard turning which was really confidence inspiring and I definitely was turning at higher speeds I would normally do. The extended pedals create a concave effect, I played with my foot positioning a few times and decided to keep them dead center on the pedals. This helped lock my foot in place and the extended pedals also help eliminate some foot fatigue during the longer rides because my foot was no longer hanging off the front or back ends. Now for the CONS: installing these pedals required you the remove the rubber bits that came on the stock pedal and I did not realize how much road cushioning those little bits provided (I think I understand why people like the Inmotion V10F Pedals now haha). Going over speed bumps and some large cracks made me almost want to launch off of the pedals, so even though these things added horizontal grip via the pins/screws some of the stock pedal's vertical "grip" was lost. With my foot perfectly centered I actually found it kind of harder to slip my feet around the pedals to change positions, you now have to lift off a bit to move your foot. I didn't realize how much I would reposition my feet on a ride until I was unable to do it normally. So although my foot can be kept at a comfortable position for a longer period of time, my position options were now more limited. Moto, Boot, Hard Outsole Shoe Ride Review: Now I'm moving onto shoes with a mid-ankle, relatively flat outsole, but are more rigid / not flexible mainly due to additional protection like CE Certification. I like wearing these shoes because they provide more of a cushion without sacrificing stability on the stock pedals. Also, these are well padded around the ankles and are my go-to when I'm trying something adventurous like going uphill offroad and such. With the new pedals installed there wasn't much of an impact on the cushioning like I had felt with the skate shoes. The additional horizontal grip is still there as well. However, these shoes are bulkier than my other shoes and when positioned dead center on the pedal for an extended amount of time my foot got tired more quickly. I tried to reposition my feet because on the stock pedal I usually have my feet poking out the front more with these kind of shoes, but with the pedal extensions they got in the way and made me a bit more unbalanced. Trying to move my feet further back had me hit the back extender, I couldn't find an ideal foot position after several rides. These shoes were not the best or most comfortable on the stock pedal, and with the extended pedal the effects are compounded. Final Thoughts: The pedals provided cornering benefits on flat surfaces using skate shoes. You won't fear slipping off your pedals from leaning too hard on a turn, and we all know how hard turning on the Z10 can be. The extended bit allowed me to go a bit further before having to reposition my foot due to fatigue. I rode for about 3 weeks now and I would be happier if there was an extended pedal version that was flat at the ends instead of angled. I think that angled bit sacrifices foot position variety for handling gain. The added harshness of the ride could be offset with some soft/cushioned deck tape I think but will need more experimenting to find out. If you want that added grip feel the screws provide you can try buying Mountain Bike Pedal Screws and using those in place of the stock screws, you'll get a nice balance of grip / comfort and not lose any of the foot positions. I can see some people REALLY liking these pedals though for that extra grip alone. For anyone wondering if the pins would damage the bottom of your shoes, they usually don't. People have been riding mountain bikes with pins on pedals for a while now and they're perfectly fine. I only noticed a few semi-permanent indentations on my Alpinestars moto shoe, but that shoe has an exceptionally soft outsole compared to everything else I own.

Some of the mods I've done. Stickers to cover all the scratches ? A front bumper/stand (3mm aluminium flatbar, bend to shape, double sided tape to hold it on) Larger foot pads/plates/pedals (remove skid pads, remove top plate, 5 screws, screw on 4mm aluminium plate cut to fit and drilled for existing screw holes, add skateboard deck tape). Should make longer trips easier on my feet. Heaps of grip. Folds as original, and I've had no pedal strikes in testing so far. I used the original plates as template for the holes and slot. Used longer screws (10mm). 600km's on the wheel so far, and loving it. What have you done to yours?

I'm parting out my MSX. Selling whatever I can get for it. Shipping is possible but only confimed Paypal addresses. Parts: MSX Pedals (left and right) 80usd Motherboard (early batch) 100usd Motherboard (latest Aug 8 2019) 150usd Inner casings (both sides, has some damage, request pics) 60usd Outer Side Panels (both sides, 60 usd) Handle (40usd, bars and the handle itself) MSX motor Wheel (includes non working motor, pedal arms, axel)- 50usd. (the motor might be able to be fixed, no promises) Brand New BMS 84v. (You can extend the range of your battery, theres a few riders who have 84v that have beyond 1600wh in battery by adding it into the empty space) Sold: Wiring/Lighting for all 30usd Thank you PS: Prices are negotiable, within reason.

Anyone who recently purchased MsuperX, and especially if you are upgrading from Msuper, you notice immediately the difference in the pedal angle on the MsuperX which is much sharper. Here's the measurement of the Msuper pedal which is about 80°: In contrast, the MsuperX measurement comes out at 75°: For myself and others, the new pedal angle on the MsuperX is uncomfortable. However there are others who are OK with it and may even prefer it, YMMV. Anyhow, I decided to modify the pedals of the MsuperX so that they match the Msuper ones exactly. I give credit to @mrelwood who I think first suggested the solution described below but first. DISCLAIMER: THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDATION. PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK ! YOU CAN EASILY DAMAGE YOUR PEDALS AND MAKE THEM UNUSABLE ! The modification involves very careful removal of pedal material using metal files until the desired angle is reached. Here are the tools used : To adjust the pedals, I carefully filed in small increments the area of the pedal that comes in contact with the pillar. Then put the pedal back and measured the angle and repeated this process many times until the angle matched the desired amount. This needed to be done in very small steps because if too much material is removed, the pedal is ruined and would have the opposite problem of too large pedal angle. Here are pictures of one of the modified pedals after about 20 minutes of labor on each one: Afterwards painted the pedals and installed better grip tape (optional) Finally here's the pedal installed on the MsuperX and now measures 80° which is the same as the Msuper: So far, the modified pedals feel much more comfortable to me. Still need to test them for longer and more demanding rides to see how they perform and check if the wheel dynamics have not been negatively affected.

I have ridden the InMotion V8 with the original V8 pedals for around 9000 km and with the V10 pedals for around 2000 km. This is a quick comparison of the pedals. Specs, V8 vs V10: Pedal length: 212mm vs 241mm Pedal weight: 650g vs 1100g (for both pedals) Surface: grip tape vs rubber V8: the grip tape is not very durable^1 and not very grippy when worn down, which takes only a few 100 km for me. The pedal position is somewhat more V-shaped on the new wheel, which is to me a little less comfortable, but pedals lose their shape over time anyway^2. When riding on loose ground, the pedals seem less forgiving by allowing less control against unintended sideway turns of the wheel. V10: the rubber gives reasonable and predictable grip and is much more durable. The pedal size is more comfortable for my size 10 feet. One pedal has broken apart after 2000 km. The same problem has been observed by others^3. Overall, I'd definitely prefer the comfortable V10 pedals for their size and surface durability, if they would not break . With the experience of breaking, the V10 pedals are not a viable option anymore, at least not for me. ^1 https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/6483-v8-pedal-durability/ ^2 https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/10542-v8-pedals-lost-v-shape/ https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/13649-v10v10f-pedals-drooping-how-to-fix/ ^3 https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/13223-broken-pedal/ https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/13649-v10v10f-pedals-drooping-how-to-fix/

I had been happy Ninebot user since early 2016, with 2000 km range experience. I have decided to make step forward, and switch to the stronger wheel - I have decided for KS16 with 680wh A few pluses: - higher torque, - much longer range - valise type handle - integrated lights - better stability and nicer ride In general - very good wheel, however I have found that original KingSong pedals are really bad in terms of grip, rubber is soft and heavy, moreover spring based holding mechanism is terrible. Please see below my mod for the pedals: - skateboard grip offer much better stability even in wet conditions - magnetic locking mechanism is easy to lock and unlock by small kick in the lower part of the pedals - pedals lower parts are quite useful! - mod allows to make the unit lighter - KS16D with 680wh battery weight is now 16,42 kg - basic CAD knowledge and 3d printer allowed me to design and print needed parts, proper mounting of the plastic inserts require drilling 3.2 mm holes in the aluminium pedals and taping the holes with M4 thread. Experience in drilling required in order not to drill through the pedals 14 mm round neodymium magnets inserted in the pedals and into the white side bumpers are sufficient to hold pedals up. - 6 pcs of of 10mm and 6 pcs of 8mm long M4 screws are needed, also 24 washers to equalize uneven cast and mount the pedals (US modders can adapt to the locally available imperial system screws) - if somebody is interested in obtaining .stl files with plastic insert and side bumper (to be printed on the 3d printer) let me know. - mod is reversible - it is possible to unscrew pads and insert rubber back into the pedals. The next mod which I decided to go for is to add brigher LED red lights on the back - see results in the next pictures.

Hi all, I recently bought a used Solowheel Xtreme. Rode it for about 20 minutes, then sparks came out of it and it stopped running. Took it apart to find that the metal snapped where one of the pedals (crank arm) is supposed to attach to the axle. The main thick cable (I assume to motor cable) also got cut since it goes through the crank arm. I am confident I can rewire the thick cable, but to do that it seems I have to get inside the motor. To get inside the motor, I would probably either have to remove the crank that is still attached to the axle, or possibly remove the material on the side of the wheel. Anyone know how to do this? Also, anyone know of a source for a new axle/crank assembly? It looks like the Solowheel Xtreme is not manufactured any longer. Attaching photos of what the damage looks like.

Scratched up my Z10 pedals plenty and am looking to replace them and the trolley handle. Ninebot doesn't seem to be offering any official replacement parts unless I'm looking in the wrong place. Has anyone bought some off AliExpress or other sites? I'm a little sketched as I don't know if they are actually Ninebot official parts, and I'd like to trust what's under my feet at 27mph. Linked a couple below. Link Link

I have a confession to make: I haven't been loving my King Song 16s as much as others seem to love theirs. My problem is occasional wobbles, which scare me enough at speed to keep my speeds unnaturally low. @Marty Backe told me it was just me and I should shut up and go away (my words, not his). A part of my problem, I believed was the general shortness of pedals; fine for size 7 Chinese feet but for western male adult feet, not so good. So I resolved, over a year ago in Spain, that when I got back to the UK I would make some pedal extensions as others have done. Well, over a year later, and one new wheel too, I've FINALLY done it. For years I have been carting around a sheet of 6.5mm aluminum diamond plate, and it was my intention to use it. Here it is, with two shoe shaped bites out of it: This stuff took forever to cut with an electric jig saw. It's aluminum on steroids. Here is one in place. I later decided to go with grip tape as the diamond pattern was actually making it slicker due to reduced contact area:

Has anyone ever replaced the V10 pedals? I noticed on the website (myinmotion.com) they are only selling pedal replacement parts for the glide 2/3. They have side panel, tire, tube, covers for the V10, but no pedals?

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum. I just recently got into riding an purchased my first EUC. The gotway Msuper X 1600W. I've heard about people not liking the slanted pedals. And I can see why. My feet end up falling asleep a lot. Is anyone have these same issues? And if so, is there a solution? Thanks!