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I'm parting out my MSX. Selling whatever I can get for it. Shipping is possible but only confimed Paypal addresses. Parts: MSX Pedals (left and right) 80usd Motherboard (early batch) 100usd Motherboard (latest Aug 8 2019) 150usd Inner casings (both sides, has some damage, request pics) 60usd Outer Side Panels (both sides, 60 usd) Handle (40usd, bars and the handle itself) MSX motor Wheel (includes non working motor, pedal arms, axel)- 50usd. (the motor might be able to be fixed, no promises) Brand New BMS 84v. (You can extend the range of your battery, theres a few riders who have 84v that have beyond 1600wh in battery by adding it into the empty space) Sold: Wiring/Lighting for all 30usd Thank you PS: Prices are negotiable, within reason.

I was driving around for 1200km on my GT16 and the paint has been rubbed off where my shoes touch the surface on some points: After my second accident there were some scratches and cracks in the shell and some screws ripped off, too. This resulted in a soft and weak shell that was usable but the tire was rubbing when I went on the wheel with one foot first. Maybe because of this structurally softness I lost my fender when going offroad - I don't know but some day I had a wet ass and back when I was coming home ... So I thought I need a new shell, new fender and some new sidecovers and went to AliExpress: base shell $200.00 sidecover $70.00 /piece? fender $50.00 (wow ~2$/gram !!!) top cover $90.00 (now with led voltmeter) Gaiter Pad $32.00 /Pair ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Result $512.00 (when I need 2x sidecover) That's €420.- or 1722.- Reichsmark 80 years in the past (I'm from Germany) - a 1938 KDF Typ 60 'Volkswagen' should cost RM990.- when delivered When the plastic parts for my Rockwheel GT16 are more expensive than a 1938 Volkswagen I think I first have to check if I REALLY, REALLY NEED THIS. Short answer is: NOT NOW !!! I first dismantled everything and fixed the cracks in the shell with 2k glue, cutted the lower shell-parts off (which always scratched on bigger stones and curb edges in some situations) and reinforced the lower screwholes with another 2k filling material for wood. This material is hard and sticks well on the plastic but it's soft enough to not crack off when turning a screw in. First I thought about a cool shiny lamborghini yellow high glossy paint - but then I tended to a much more rough and tank-like styling. I choosed a 2k polyurethane color also known as 'bedliner' for pickup-trucks. I brush dabbed the colour by hand to get a light texture to the surface. If there are some bigger scratches or damages on the paint in the future it is more easy to dab with the brush invisibly. I changed all toy-like screws from the shell to high quality German 'Würth Assy' screws and mounted everything together. I generated a new fender (from a set of MTB plastic fenders for a few bucks) which fits in the old place - Simply to put in and out but not possible to slide anymore because of its different geometry. Now the shell is in excellent condition and when I step on the wheel with one foot first there is no rubbing and scrubbing anymore. Better than new and I think the shell was never that stiff before because even when it was new, while riding on one leg there always was a very slightly scrubbing. Although my method was so oldschool, the new painting looks much better than the original one that was made in China with spraygun where several places on the shell were not covered well with colour from all points of view. Additionally there is one big psychological advantage : on the next accident (and this is surely just a matter of time) I will only think "oh shit !!! Will my sunglasses survive ?" while my mind will stay totally cool about the shell. For the whole operation I paid not more than €50/$60 (bedliner:0.75ltr/€16.50 hardener:€3.50 MTB-Fender-set:€16,95) glue,2k-stuff,screws,sandpaper and some solvents were things I already had at home. Next things on my todo list is: Replace the non-water/dirtproof backlight max. €2.50 Replace the (crap-shitty-dark) frontlight max. €2.50 Add Mini-Voltmeter on the mainboard cover max. €3.00 Add some aditional LED's (but not crappy circus-style) max. €8.00 I have ordered these already on Amazon but I have to wait some time for delivery. The first frontlight LED has already arrived and I measured with a Lightmeter: Original GT16 Frontlight = 1900 Lux versus New LED frontlight = 6600 Lux It's a huge difference even without without measuring clearly visible with my eyes Because I ordered some different types of frontlights, I will wait until everything has been arrived and then choose the best one. I will make some pictures and a post from the electrical modification then, too.

(16/03/2019 updates in progress) Hello After more than a year working on my blog about the Mini, I decided a few days ago to monetize my blog, it reached more than 11,400 visitors from 115 countries. By joining affiliate programs with resellers, I choose spare parts and accessories for the Mini. I try to pay attention to quality even if it is difficult. I would touch a small percentage of a sale made, which will perhaps allow me to improve my blog, will see, I start with these programs. https://mini-j.jimdo.com/shop-guide/ It is therefore in total transparency that I announce the creation of a new site attached to my blog, called "Mini-J-S-G" (for the entire title: mini-j shopping guide) (cancelling) jojo33

First: Changed the headlight SMD with about 80 Lumen(right) to 300 Lumen(left) output. The new one is the same like the SMD from Cateye Volt300. Forgot to make pictures before and after. Unfortunately... But it's really bright right now Now I just hope the heat dissipation works well enough Second: Add some SMD to the backlight. Second picture is the original LED strip. Third pic with the modification.

Can some of you guys give me some suggestions on headlights i can attach to my monster for night riding? Preferably rechargeable.

Any advice on a light and fast 14inch wheel. What is your favorite? Is something new coming up?

Hi folks, I am just back from a test ride... With a new headlight ! I managed to fix two bike LED headlights, each powered by 3 AAA batteries. And it is great ! I can see street traffic signs reflecting my lights 100m ahead ! Cheers

Hello every one I m new on the forum, I m french student Who success to print in 3d à fixation for rear and front light for ninebot one I can sell you one if you want or creat amazon store for sell it The rear light has a remote for control the Light, the warning, the led on the road and turn signal/blinking

Hi all of you! Something regarding the KS-16 app and the light settings confuses me, I hope anyone can give me some advice on this... 1. First of all, it happens now and then when I open up the app that the language has switched from English to Chinese. I do not know any other way how to change this other than deleting the app and download it again. When I open it after a fresh installation the user interface language is once again English, for some more couple of days, until I have to repeat this procedure over and over. Guess I should add that I am using iOS (iphone 6). 2. The front and rear lights on KS-16, if I switch the light setting to on in the app, the front LED will be constantly throw a white light, while the rear red light is not constantly on? It looks more like it is lit up when the driver is tilting backwards to slow down or breake? Is this an expected behaviour? It is a bit odd to me. I do not mind so much other than for legal reasons, since the law in my country tells that the EUC should cast a constant red light rearward. I am under the impression that this is true for most countries as well. 3. And my final issue with the lights and the app is that it seems that the setting for the lights (ON/AUTO/OFF) will reset itself back to AUTO at some point, perhaps when I shutdown the app and open it again, or maybe when I power the KS-16 off and on, I do not know, but it resets itself frequently to the Auto setting. Why is this and how can I work around this irritating behaviour? I hope someone can help me with these matters, or at least one or two of them Thanks.

Picked up some electroluminescent tape (red & white) from Tinkersphere in Manhattan. Ran the wire in the frame and connected to the existing LED power lines with a 12V inverter and some soldering. They are on when the LEDs have power, but can be turned off. https://youtu.be/_43grjw-YKk

I have just got a new hoverboard for Christmas and played with it for an hour or 2 and it stopped working. The front right light (Looking from the front) is flashing and the left one is on constantly. Its beeping constantly with the red light flashing. The battery light was red but is now green. I have tried the calibration trick but it seems to be something else. I have opened it up and checked all the connections and they seem OK. When I ask it to calibrate the front right light flashes 5 times then they both flash at a slow rate. Any ideas on what to try next would be greatly appreciated.

I recently got a 12 inch ips (130WH) that I really like for small trips or when I know I will have to carry my EUC inside somewhere. What are some other compact and lightweight eucs that would be good for traveling? Lets stick to whatever the airline limit is supposed to be for battery, which i believe to be 130WH.

Hi, i have had my IPS eui for about 1 month and yesterday it started blinking twice red and twice green while making a continuous sound. I thought it was empty for battery and charged it. After charging it again started to blink and make the noise. Any ideas about what the problem might be and how I can fix it? Thanks for your help! Best regards, Carl