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EUC

Found 11 results

  1. Hey y'all! I've spent a year riding EUCs and ripping through upgrades (IPS i6, InMotion V8, KS18L w/Pedal Upgrade, MSX100V 1.23kWh, and now a MSX100V 1.85kWh coming in the mail). I started off thinking "bleh, I'm not a speed demon like those crazies riding GotWays" so I started off small, but I found that I really love the speed and safety of having more power and keeping up with cars at 70km/h. The big tires also lessen my fear of potholes and other road surface aberrations. Alongside my other hobbies (skydiving and alpine climbing), EUC riding is up there on my favorites list. The EUC is also a convenient tool for short errands, last-mile transport, and walking the dog. I truly believe it's the future of urban transport. So having dropped another $2k on this hobby, I'm idly pondering the future directions that EUCs will take and how they can get better. Could we get together a wish list of near-term and long-term improvements that we'd like to see on the EUCs of the future? Here's my list. Short-term: Kuji Pads standard. Besides enabling tricks like jumping up curbs, Kuji Pads are a safety feature, helping reduce foot slip when traveling over irregular terrain. Long footpedals standard. To extract the most performance (and safety) out of your EUC, the pedals need to be as long as your foot. This allows your center of gravity to shift as far forward or backward as possible, allowing the greatest control input for rapid acceleration and deceleration. It also allows you to climb and descend steeper hills. With the upgraded pedals on the KS18L, I've climbed the steepest hills in San Francisco with no complaint. The same cannot be said for the standard short pedals on the MSX. Footpedal grind guards. Pedal scrape is no joke, especially if your pedal hits a bump in the road. Danger arises from the potential for the pedal to get "stuck," causing a sudden torque and launching you off the EUC. If the pedals had low-friction grind guards on their leading edge (made of acetal or UHMWPE, for example), this would lessen the odds of getting stuck. Of course, they would be consumables. Dihedral footpedals standard. The angled dihedral footpedals of the MSX seem weird at first, but they really secure your foot against the EUC—a huge benefit for reducing foot slip when hitting unexpected bumps, or when riding one-footed. Especially if you must make frequent stops, such as when walking the dog, this latter point is important for lessening foot fatigue. They also lessen the odds of pedal scrape on sharp turns. Long-term: Higher speed. Keeping up with cars is lots of fun, but also important for safety (drivers DGAF). I'd like to see future EUCs with a top speed of 80 or 90km/h. Bigger battery. Since drag force rises quadratically with speed, you need a bigger battery to go long distances if you're going fast. I'd like future EUCs with 3kWh or more. Shock absorbers. My knees are fine, but using them to dampen the resonant tank formed by the tire's spring force and the EUC's mass can be a challenge—as a human, my response time isn't fast enough to dampen it well; I need to anticipate and prepare for the shock. Especially on poorly maintained roads, it's difficult to keep up with the repetitive and unpredictable force impulses when traveling at speed, causing anxiety about foot slip when traveling on unknown paths at night. It would be preferred if shock absorbers (important: with dampeners) were integrated into the EUC structure, especially if the battery was kept unsprung. I imagine this would result in a supremely buttery ride. Belt-drive. This one's debatable, because it introduces another point of failure into the drivetrain, but... The power you can get out of a motor is proportional to the product of its size (namely, its volume) and how fast you spin it. With direct drive, where the motor is integrated into the wheel structure, you aren't spinning the motor very fast so its power density is remarkably low. As a result, for a given power level the motor must be really big—and neodymium and copper ain't cheap. If you added gearing or a belt drive, then the motor could spin faster than the wheel and be much smaller—like a hobby motor. This would substantially reduce the cost and weight of EUCs. Additionally, the sprung mass could be reduced and it would be easier to carry around. I take pause because it adds another point of failure if the belt breaks. While a drivetrain failure on a motorcycle might cause a fall, a drivetrain failure on an EUC will cause a fall. Maybe some belt-drive experts can chime in. Foot attachment. Having dihedral pedals and Kuji pads helps to reduce foot slip, but nothing can beat a true attachment. It needn't take much force, since it would only need to prevent your feet from slipping off while catching air, so "clip-in" pedals like bicycles or skis would be unnecessary. Preferably something that can be detached easily when you need to step or jump off. My thought at the moment is to place a magnet on the pedal or the side of the EUC, and to have a small steel plate that pins to the bottom or side your shoe that is attracted by the magnet. Articulating seats. Control of acceleration on the EUC arises from your ability to translate your center of gravity longitudinally, fore or aft of the tire's point of contact. Your ankles' articulation permits this motion. Fine control of steering is done by twisting your hips (and by extension the EUC) axially against your torso's rotational inertia, and course control by lateral translation of your center of gravity to the left or right of the tire's point of contact. The former is permitted by twisting articulation in your trunk, and the latter by articulation in your ankles and hips. On a seat that is rigidly mounted to the EUC, your ability to perform these translations and rotations is greatly diminished. In this case, you are reliant on the compliance in your butt tissue, which even for those blessed with child-bearing hips is not much. As a result, your control inputs on a seat are severely limited. This endangers you since you cannot steer or decelerate as quickly as may be needed in the event of an emergency. Articulating seats that permit a few centimeters of longitudinal and lateral translation, and several degrees of axial rotation, should greatly improve this situation. Maintenance schedules. As EUCs become faster and more powerful, and as more people ride them, it becomes more critical to keep them well-maintained. Manufacturer-recommended maintenance and inspection intervals may be wise. What's your wishlist? Cheers!
  2. I received my KS-18XL in June 1, 2019. This is my first wheel ever, amazing fun, been riding it for a month, 727 km done on it. I started reading about battery packs and how to keep it fresh for a long time. Should I charge to 100% or just 80%? Only then did I notice that my wheel would only charge to 85%, it would stop charging at 80.7 V, then later settle down to 80 V. Started debugging, maybe it's a faulty charger? KS-18XL has two 20s3p battery packs connected in parallel. I noticed that if only one is connected, the wheel charges normally to 84 V, if only another is connected, it only charges to 80 V and shuts off, the charger shows green light. The voltage would indicate that only 19 cells out of 20 are working. After communication with the seller and seller communicating with Kingsong we decide to try to rebalance the cells. I didn't know the cell balancing connectors are in the corner, so I removed the whole cover. If someone needs to balance their battery back, you don't need to open it all. I noticed the board had physical damage and first assumed it was me who had somehow damaged it during the disassembly. I was all dismayed so didn't document this part very well. Later after thinking more and more I realised it couldn't have been me, it had to have happened in the factory. 19 cells out of 20 were all showing equal voltage (3.8V), but the 13th cell was showing 0 V, exactly the same cell who's BMS had been damaged. Kingsong has told the dealer they would be sending me a new battery pack, so I am happy with the service, however it will just take a long time to reach me so the riding season might be over Will update if I do receive it or not. This story does sound awfully similar to @FrankFilmer incident. His wheel only charged to 70%, which I think is a huge red flag and indicates battery problems (maybe only 18 cells working out of 20). Finally, I think that our wheels are inherently very dangerous and had my board been damaged in another spot, or had I kept riding the wheel without paying attention I would have eventually gotten a cut-out or a fire in my home. The wheel doesn't have any advanced battery management system, it should watch the health of all cells and it should warn the user that the battery is malfunctioning, but there is no such warning for the user. I was riding with 19s3p and 20s3p battery backs connected in parallel. That can't be good. Always make sure that the wheel charges to 100% and actually check that it reaches the voltage it should be reaching. Just because charger shows green, doesn't mean all cells are working.
  3. KS18XL for sale 1,800 USD Brand new, unused, parts include: • All outer shell pieces • LED strips and lenses • Upgraded stronger white plastic inner frame • Upgraded lift sensors for new white plastic inner frame • Trolley handle extensions • Mud flaps and bracket • Upper pads • Tire • Inner tire tube Sale also includes: 1. upgraded large American size KingSong Pedals 2. two KingSong chargers 3. 3D printed EUC stand 4. Resurfaced and repainted trolley handle, and Large-sized pedals. Note: *Resurfaced, indicates that the items were sanded, body filled, then primed (three coats), painted matte black (three coats), and satin clear coated (three coats) for a total of nine coats of paints. They look brand new from KingSong. The seller of this wheel is someone in the EUC community that suffered an EUC related, career ending permanent injury. Likelihood of ever riding an EUC again is very slim. Sound off, If you are looking for a used 18XL in excellent shape, or know of anyone. Don’t miss out on this excellent wheel. The forum limits my ability to post photos so to see them visit: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Glydiators/permalink/1647305345411960?sale_post_id=1647305345411960&sfns=mo you can also visit: t.me/GlydiatorsAds
  4. Hi, I'm wondering what other 18XL owners' experience is with the 18XL in terms of speed throttling at low battery. My experience is... It's never done it to me... Ever. Granted, I usually charge it when it gets down to 30% (I like long rides so I tend to want to make sure I'll have plenty of range whenever I go out for a ride), but the when times I've gone below 25%...no speed throttling if any kind. The day before yesterday I got it down to 15% (idle) by the end of the ride, and zero tiltback our speed throttling. Even during the last few kms, (I was monitoring Wheelog constantly while riding), the battery ranged from 5-8% under stress, and dropped to 0% on a few steepish climbs, still no throttling. Is this normal? Should I be worried? Granted, on such low battery I throttle myself out of common sense (no high speed, yet to avoid bumps, etc), but I'd still like to know whether this is an isolated issue with my wheel or if others area experiencing the same thing. Thanks!
  5. Im curious to see what other people think of the 3 different riding modes you can choose between on the Kingsong wheels, and how it affects the performance, and the feeling of riding, and also importantly which mode you prefer to ride on? I ride a Kingsong 18XL, which is my first wheel, and the one i've learned to ride on. So far I've ridden the entire time completely on "experient mode", with the exception of trying learner mode while I was learning. Recently I've been playing around with the settings and have been trying "riding mode" I can notice some difference between these modes, and I'm not sure which one I like more now. Anyways, what are your thoughts/ experiences?
  6. Hi! I'm newbie with EUC, ordered KS18XL with big pedals, leider it came with small pedals, the big ones I got separately, but, and here is a question, maybe stupid, in the hole for the axis on small pedals bolt thread is on both sides, on big pedals only on one side, so it should be? Or is it a defect? Theoretically, if you cut the axis itself a bit, then you can tighten the bolt on one side only because the axis does not pass through the other side. But i don't think it should be so.
  7. Hello friends HAPPY NEWS FROM TURKEY 😍😍😍 Kingsong ks18L model loaded new application. Then inmotion v10f and ks18xl gyro sensitivity was the same. İ have both v10f and ks18xl. And Ks18xl is the best on the world now.
  8. Hello! I want to sell or swap/change to a bigger or faster wheel from King Song. Come with suggestions, I am thinking a KS16S or a KS18XL. My King song is bought in Polen around 6months ago and I live in Sweden (Stockholm). I've tried to take good pictures, if they aren't enough just tell me to send more. It has some scratches which I try to show the deepest ones. Underneath the pads, it is there that most of the hits/bumps/scratches have taken place. I have never crashed with it big, it is only really when learning with it the first few weeks I jumped off it and it laid down on the sides. Other than that it is brilliant! I guess that you already have this info but it has the Panasonic battery-pack 680WH. Range is fantastic on it! Soft pads against the body are still in good condition. Price, I am not certain... My guess is maybe around 700 Euro? Don't know if you do like eBay here with bidding ( I just signed up to this forum). If you have any questions, welcome. Regards
  9. So... I've put 200 km on my V8, (my first wheel) unlocked it to 30 km/h, and and am ready for an upgrade. It'll probably have to wait a bit, but I've been doing some research in preparation and would love some feedback! In terms of my requirements: Speed: Ridiculous speeds are not what I'm after; a 35 km/h cruising speed is fine, but I reckon I'd like to aim for a 50-ish km/h max. speed for overtaking purposes and to have an ample safety margin in terms of overleaning, accidentally hitting bumps at speed, etc. TORQUE: The main decisive factor. I live in a very hilly area, and although the V8's 30 km/h cruising speed is fine on flatter roads, and I'm impressed how well it does going up steep hills, that's not what it's made for and it does so at a sluggish pace. Aside from being able to maintain cruising speed even up hills and having a wheel that I won't melt in 6 months on this type of terrain, TORQUE is a must for in case I need to accelerate, for any reason, half way up a hill, etc. Battery/range: In the long term, I reckon I'll be doing a lot of mixed riding, from urban use to countryside, offroad, etc., so I'm after something with a decent range for touring too, and with the battery power to match the torque, needless to say (although those go hand in hand in wheel design anyway) So, my main candidates are: IM V10: Was originally on the list, and is definitely a good wheel from all I've read (and seen), but not sure it ticks all the boxes. KS18XL: Ticks the speed and range boxes, and from what I've seen, seems to be a very well balanced wheel (comfort, pedals, maneuverability), but I haven't read anything about the torque. I'm not too keen on the aggressive throttling and tiltback of the KS18L, although the XL's extra battery capacity should make battery-related throttling a rare occurrence in daily riding...(Update: confirmed > based on houseofjob's review, the throttling threshold has been lowered to sub-30% battery). Love the matte look and lights too, as well as the handle. GW MS3+ (v3.7, 1600Wh): Probably my top contender. Ticks all the boxes, I'm guessing with additional torque that the 18XL probably lacks. The 18' wheel is perfect (like with the KS18XL), as having learned on the V8, which is a tall wheel, it shouldn't be too hard, and I don't think will be much of an issue for city riding. What I don't like is the pedals' inward tilt & lack of a mudguard. Don't mind the lack of kill switch, as it isn't something I'll be using often. Have also read that it's a bit top-heavy, which isn't ideal for maneuverability. GW MSX2: Ticks all the same boxes as the MS3+. Range is better, and despite battery size, am guessing that with the MOSFET TO-247, torque doesn't suffer. Probably better for offroading, but a 19" wheel might not be the best for city riding. In short, I'm after an all-rounder that I can use for anything, that's powerful, safe (margin for overlean and overcurrent when not near top speed), and comfortable for daily use, whether in the countryside or in the city. What are you guys' 2 cents? Folks who have ridden them...what am I missing, overlooking or need to take into consideration? Thanks!
  10. Facebook event page: NYC KS-18XL Demo Sunday 10/28 11AM Chelsea Piers - Fresh & Co special thanks: eWheels.com
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