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Found 55 results

  1. UPDATED Today, ! Hello it's now 4 month olds bought the 11 / 02 / 2020, I'll love it, it's better than my car ;3 Faster !, but not safer, i prefer to crash my car to annother car ;3 I was ridding and about 3 weeks ago, perfect weather, between 70% to 80% charge, i start my ride as usual. and on the middle range i notice the battery was low 4 green lights over 9 (I always end my work trip (25 km) with getting full battery and 25km more to get to the low level 3orange dots) i never saw my wheel with more than 2 greens leds off for my work-trip... and i decide to charge at work, witch was pretty fast only took 1h for full charge... strange strange... I do notice one side 'Outside right' of my wheel was a little more warm than the other, like 28°C ? and the other was at 20°c, not soo big difference, as hot as the motor run, "normal" [FULLCharging + stay plugged 4 hours ?] Then trip back home: 25km (total climbing 200m) and when riding, the wheel kick me off for low battery warning... (i could get home by pushing it during climbing) as an engineer I'm getting to open the wheel: wheel opened, 1 Overcharged dead pack 4.23v ?), and one "good"? pack with 50% battery remaining shown 3.82v... (it was full charged 2day before opening) I don't have that big time like kids to speak on, the vendor allow me to inspect my wheel... lets see what inside on next post ! as the battery pack is still under waranty, i can't unpack it to see what's wrong inside... but for sure there is at least something dead inside ...
  2. Hello community So im strongly considering buying one of those, the only difference I see is the enginepower, so 800w vs 1200w. Both are available with a 828 Wh. battery. So my question is, are these 400w strongly noticeable and are there any other differences i have missed? I would mainly use the EUC in the city for quicker transportation without sweating, but there are a few hills i wana be able to get up without problems. The thing is, these 400w extra cost 250€ so thats quite for only 400w power raise... is it worth getting the stronger one? It would be my first EUC but i can ride non electrical Unis pretty well, so i think it wont be difficult to ride them, even when they are a bit stronger Maybe someone have experience with both EUC, cause i sadly havnt found any post here in this forum and on youtube... Greets, Daniel PS: I found this board through a youtube video from @Lukasz where he made a review on the ks16s
  3. I saw picture here and there of KS16 wheels customized with special stickers. I was looking on internet but could not find any vendor for KS16 stickers except for the pad, nothing for the entire wheel and the complete shell. Probably some are home made but I doubt all the one I saw are like this. they must have been bought somewhere. If anyone has a link to share, would be great.
  4. Hey guys, I play music when riding my KS16, but I want to upgrade the speakers to be louder. Has anyone any experience on doing that? Any problems when changing the speakers that I should be aware of? And what speaker did you try out? I want the whole city to know I'm coming their way.
  5. Sold! I have a KS16s with under 400 miles for sale. A few minor scratches but otherwise in perfect condition. I am located in santa cruz, California and have the orginal box for shipping if you are not local. You can respond to this post or email me at rlion8@gmail.com. I've got plenty of pics for some reason can't upload. Email me and i'll send. thanks. its a great machine. nothing wrong whatsoever!
  6. I am relatively new to the EUC world (1st post). After my Airwheel X8 bit the dust (battery issues), I bought an KS16S recently and, in general, I am very happy with it. That said, I have not super thrilled with the way the KS computes Battery%. I have one of those rapid chargers that ewheels sells and, basically, the KS app was reporting that the battery was being charged to 100% no matter what settings I put the charger on (two knobs: 1/2/3/4,/ Amps, 80%/90%/100% Charge). Fearing that my charger was not functioning properly and being an engineer, I started collecting and plotting data from the KS App. What I found is that the KS app has a stupidly simplistic formula for going from Voltage to Battery% Charge; >65V 100%. <65v use following linear formula: <65v Batttery% = 0.0666 * BatteryVoltage - 3.33 This is the data taken over about 1000km so I don't think this is a fluke or an unrepresentative data set. If you look at the chart below (or the data below that if you want to do your own curve fit) you can see that the linear fit is beyond doubt; This is how KS is internally computing battery voltage. I don't particularly like this method because it muddles the water with respect to using the ewheels charger as a means to extend my battery life (which is my reason for using that charger -- I don't need the faster charge times, I just want my commuter wheel to go a 2-4X longer before needing a new battery). But at least with this data, I can see that the ewheels charge is doing what it is supposed to do (stop charging at less than 100% charge). So... Yay ewheels? FWIW Data battery% batteryV 98% 64.65 52% 57.83 60% 58.95 99% 64.87 51% 57.58 99% 64.86 57% 58.52 98% 64.68 85% 62.73 31% 54.71 99% 64.87 77% 61.56 42% 56.36 98% 64.74 59% 58.92 35% 55.24 99% 64.84 64% 59.65 99% 64.88 51% 57.71 99% 64.8 8% 51.23 99% 64.91 53% 58.00 99% 64.90 73% 60.94 37% 55.52 100% 66.32 81% 62.14 49% 57.39 98% 64.75 72% 60.83 53% 57.96 28% 54.13 100% 67.83
  7. I had been happy Ninebot user since early 2016, with 2000 km range experience. I have decided to make step forward, and switch to the stronger wheel - I have decided for KS16 with 680wh A few pluses: - higher torque, - much longer range - valise type handle - integrated lights - better stability and nicer ride In general - very good wheel, however I have found that original KingSong pedals are really bad in terms of grip, rubber is soft and heavy, moreover spring based holding mechanism is terrible. Please see below my mod for the pedals: - skateboard grip offer much better stability even in wet conditions - magnetic locking mechanism is easy to lock and unlock by small kick in the lower part of the pedals - pedals lower parts are quite useful! - mod allows to make the unit lighter - KS16D with 680wh battery weight is now 16,42 kg - basic CAD knowledge and 3d printer allowed me to design and print needed parts, proper mounting of the plastic inserts require drilling 3.2 mm holes in the aluminium pedals and taping the holes with M4 thread. Experience in drilling required in order not to drill through the pedals 14 mm round neodymium magnets inserted in the pedals and into the white side bumpers are sufficient to hold pedals up. - 6 pcs of of 10mm and 6 pcs of 8mm long M4 screws are needed, also 24 washers to equalize uneven cast and mount the pedals (US modders can adapt to the locally available imperial system screws) - if somebody is interested in obtaining .stl files with plastic insert and side bumper (to be printed on the 3d printer) let me know. - mod is reversible - it is possible to unscrew pads and insert rubber back into the pedals. The next mod which I decided to go for is to add brigher LED red lights on the back - see results in the next pictures.
  8. Hi guys, I currently own a KS14D (420Wh), and I am looking to upgrade my wheel. I have narrowed down my choices to the V10 and KS16B. I have tried looking around in the forum for the comparison between them, but it was to no avail. I am able to get one of these for roughly the same price (V10 - S$1,050 and KS16B (840Wh) - S$1,000) so the cost isn't really a comparison factor. I will mostly be using it to travel around campus, and more importantly, for my part-time job as a food delivery rider. As such, there will be very minimal off-road riding (mostly on pavements only). I am more concerned about the max range (as I work relatively long hours during weekends, and the KS14D was only able to last for around 25 km), overall riding comfort, and "ruggedness" of the EUC. Can you guys help me decide which one I should get? I am around 55 kg (~121 lbs). Thanks in advance!
  9. I have a confession to make: I haven't been loving my King Song 16s as much as others seem to love theirs. My problem is occasional wobbles, which scare me enough at speed to keep my speeds unnaturally low. @Marty Backe told me it was just me and I should shut up and go away (my words, not his). A part of my problem, I believed was the general shortness of pedals; fine for size 7 Chinese feet but for western male adult feet, not so good. So I resolved, over a year ago in Spain, that when I got back to the UK I would make some pedal extensions as others have done. Well, over a year later, and one new wheel too, I've FINALLY done it. For years I have been carting around a sheet of 6.5mm aluminum diamond plate, and it was my intention to use it. Here it is, with two shoe shaped bites out of it: This stuff took forever to cut with an electric jig saw. It's aluminum on steroids. Here is one in place. I later decided to go with grip tape as the diamond pattern was actually making it slicker due to reduced contact area:
  10. I am new and need to learn how to ride. So my major concerns is to avoid damaging my unit. My idea is to cover it with a layer of 5mm paper jam leaving uncovered crucial areas like led indicator and top side. Before all this the unit must be wrapped up in sort of food wrapping film to prevent the moisture enter in side.
  11. Just here to give my opinions on the Ninebot Mini and why its a more dangerous than any other EUCs and see if anyone else here agrees with me. The argument: Last year before Christmas I bought a Ninebot Mini I had a go on it and realized not only was it less fun because you were required to go in a straight line but significantly more dangerous over riding any EUC. In fact I think the Mini should be speed limited to only 10-12km/h max and not 18! When riding at higher speeds and the floor is uneven you are having to adjust your body to the way the road is. For example when you ride on a slope where your only ONE of your wheels are lower or higher you would have to tilt to the direction that is higher to remain balance. For eg: If you are riding on the side walk and on your left there is a wheel chair ramp making the left wheel dip lower than the right wheel for a short bit you will have to quickly adjust your body to the right so remain balance if you stood still you will lose control. The other concern is that when you do so to maintain your centre of gravity you could knock that pole that controls the left or right, this has also become a major issue when riding on uneven surfaces. Unlike riding on an EUC the centre of gravity is between your foot at the point where the wheel hits the floor making it easy to glide over rougher terrains. On the Ninebot mini you are forced to adjust your body to the way the terrain is much more than what is required from an EUC. The benefit however of the Ninebot Mini is that you are able to pick it up quickly, and stand in place really easily. In short...after owning the Ninebot Mini I quickly sold it(without even owning it for 2 weeks) knowing the dangers that would possess with it and made a hefty profit during the Christmas season. My first actual post on the forum, thanks for reading Jack
  12. Howdy folks! ☺️ When I woke up yesterday I noticed the brake light on my KS16 was stuck on one side of the wheel, and the headlights doesn't turn on at all (on/off/charging doesn't matter, they're just stuck) so I figure there could be an easy fix like unplugging the batteries for a minute or so - But, seeing as how you all are an excellent bunch of clever people who've probably heard of this before, I figure I better check in here first so I don't screw something up. I've tried adjusting the related settings in the app but there was no change. Apart from this, the wheel have travelled ~950km now and is working great.
  13. Hi Folks, I just discovered a strange behavior of the LED ring of my KS-16S after my last ride: The battery was down to 38% and just before the recharge I recognized that the LED ring (on one Side only) lit a little strange: Instead of showing 4 LED solid green, there were 2 green and another white at top of the ring. (on wheel's opposite side the LEDs lit correct). After shutdown the wheel for about 1 hour, the LED rings came up correct again. Have you ever experienced such behavior? Any ideas about the cause of this?
  14. I have been riding it about 3 months... I had reset it to go 35KPH.. Everything was great until yesterday when I noticed I got the "Please Decelerate" notice and tilt back... but going a lot slower than it should be at. I checked my speed settings on the app and it was set to 35 still, yet it was happening at about 28kph. I can't put in a new code on the speed limit decoding screen cuz once you do it once, you get the same screen as the speed limit setup. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the app but it still wouldn't bring me to the proper screen to enter a code again.. I tried to install the new version of the app on my android phone from the website but it doesn't download.... so I installed the old app on my friends iPhone and finally thought I had it solved when I saw the proper speed limit decoding screen... I did it.. took it for a ride, and nope... still set to 28kph... I wonder if I need to reset the wheel to a factory default and how to do it. Does anyone know how to solve this? Help!!
  15. Dear wheel, please accept my most heartfelt sympathies. My thoughts are with you, dear KS16, and the Kingsong family during this difficult time. Wishing you peace to bring comfort to your new owner, courage to face the days ahead and loving memories to forever hold in my hearts. Words seem inadequate to express the sadness I feel loosing you. But because winter approaches again, with lots of skiing days and no possibility to ride a wheel, I needed to give you away, after sharing lifes for more than 3000 km. I'm sure you will be happy there. And I, the hollow-hearted preowner, I'll feel ready next spring to take the next step to a KS16S, Gotway Tesla or the like.
  16. Hello Folks, I'm a Ninebot One S2 (S1) Rider and pretty satisfied with that package, especially regarding it's movability and handling. But I'm missing a little *whoom* and therefore I'm thinking over to switch to something like V8 or KS-16S... in the first place. Now I read the rumours about the announced shiny new KS-18L or Ninebot Z, both 18 Inch. So, what is your option, should I Upgrade to 16" - or even better to 18"? What are the advantages/disadvantages? What about the riding comfort (e.g. City ride, long distance ride, gravel road, bumpy road etc) - are there big differences between 16" and 18" or do they behave more or less pretty similar? Will a 18 inch wheel be suitable for inner City usage or is it much less movable/agile, compared to a 16 inch Model? Thank you for you opinions/experiences Rgds, Borg
  17. I stumbled over this seller on Aliexpress, selling accessories for Kingsong 16 inch wheels: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/KINGSONG-16inch-electric-unicycle-All-accessories-parts-motor-shell-Controller-motherboard-Pull-rod-handle-lever-Light/32832356086.html This made me think about if it would be possible to upgrade my Kingsong KS16B to KS16S by replacing my current motor and controller card with new ones? Since I think I have read that the shell is almost the same for B and S. Not that I am exactly sure what model the accessories from this Aliexpress seller is suitable for, you cannot tell from the product descriptions (at least I can't...). But, hypothetically: would it be possible, or if not: what would be the caveats? And would it be enough to replace the motor and the controller or are there other parts that are vital for a successful upgrade?
  18. Hi KS16S owners, could you share your experience with the wheel a little bit ? Is it as reliable as the KS16B, what do you like, what do you not like, did you have an accident because of a wheel malfunction, all these would interest me. I intend to upgrade from my KS16B to the KS16S, not only because of the 5 km/h more maxspeed, but also because of the little bit longer range (I have the 640 Wh version). Thanks in advance for sharing.
  19. Hi guys, To finally celebrate the arrival of the new Kingsong batch to the UK, I am happy to announce a £300 (340€) discount on Kingsong KS16S. "Why the hell does he discount a new model by this much?" - you might ask. This is only because I myself can't wait to start riding one of them, and want few more dedicated riders to join me in enjoying this wheel! The deal will only be available until the end of Sunday, 30th July. With this massive discount you still get the excellent aftersales and servicing done by Project42 UK in London, 24/7 support and return/replacement options. The shipment has landed today, and should be at our warehouse early next week. Reserve yours today: https://proj42.co.uk/kingsong/kingsong-ks16s-electric-unicycle Feel free to reply below or msg me directly if you have any questions
  20. Hi folks, I was annoyed by running into over-voltage trouble everytime I start with a fully charged battery and have to run downhill. For some time now I used a modified charger with reduced end-voltage, but I wanted to solve the problem by its root. Together with electronics developer friends we created a circuitry that activites a load resistor, whenever a certain voltage level (67.3V) is exceeded. Such a circuitry is called break chopper. It helps breaking any kind of motor/generator drive. I installed high power LEDs (2*100W) into my KS16 as the load resistor and I am fairly satisfied with the function. I also made experiments with halogen lamps as the load resistor, what I show in the video too. Such lamps radiate away the largest part of the braking energy so it has not be spread by heat sinks. Besides the LEDs, in the second part of the first video I use 3*150W /24V halogen lamps as the load, but these seem a little oversized. In the second video I do the same track (140m descent) with 3*75W /24V lamps, what works as well as the 200W LED-load. I hope you enjoy the nerdy experiments and light show!
  21. Dear fellow riders, my otherwise quite reliable KS-16B (after approx. real 1500 km, FW 1.25) has recently a few times spontaneously shut down while being pushed with the trolley extended. The power turned itself off without warning and the wheel went limp. I could switch the power on again and at least once it turned itself off again after a few minutes. No problems while riding, only when pushing in trolley mode. WheelLog logs did not show anything unusual until the shutdown. Maybe related: when turning the unit off by pushing the power button, sometimes I get one beep, sometimes two beeps, and I think I once even heard three short beeps when I turned it off. Is there a meaning of those multiple beeps? @Tilmanndiagnosed a faulty on/off switch. It would execute a shutdown triggered through vibrations while the wheel is pushed at slow speed but not while riding when the power on/off switch is deactivated. And it could also produce mutiple beeps. Can anyone please confirm or report of a similar problem and perhaps its remedy (*)? What is the known minimal speed above which the power on/off switch is deactivated in the KS-16B? Or is it deactivated by riding the unit as opposed to just pushing it? Thanks a lot! (*) except upgrading to the new KS-16S
  22. I thought it was about time to refurbish my ks16 for the summer, and I have always jelaously been looking at the matte black shells. First is the before picture. It is actually from a tire change last year, it was more scratches and marks on it now. Next is in the middle of the shell replacement. Just removed the trolley handle to reach the top cover shell. Then a picture of the old shell and pedals (yes I did a try with black vinyl wrapping earlier this year, but I am far too restless to get that nice so I was not too happy about the result). 4th picture is the wheel with new shell and new pedals. Also new side pads without the kingsong logo. Picture 5, 6 and 7 shows some minor additional things. I put grip tape under the pedals. Apart from protect them from scratches I find it to be quite good looking. The very uncool reflectors on the front/rear/side are attached with hook-and-loop/velcro tape on pads cut out from those bumper foam strips that I have seen a lot of you people on this forum are using as wheel protection. The cool thing with the uncool safety reflectors are that they are actually certified for use here in Sweden, which not many reflectors are, actually I have only found 2 or 3 brands that are legally allowed (and all look this ugly, maybe that is a requirement in the certification :). I have also put on a light which is a lot brighter than the built-in (1600 lumen). It's a bicycle front light/headlight with a small battery pack that I fastened against the trolley handle. And as you may see I have also put on some rubber strips to protect the wheel. I have no illusions that they will keep this wheel looking clean like this forever, but maybe a little longer than otherwise. Shell and pads are from Kingsong Europe, bumper foam and new pedals are from Aliexpress. Rubber strips, reflectors and light are from local Swedish hardware stores.
  23. Hi! For reasons, I had to do some disassembly of the trolley bar from the KS-16. When I was about to put it back, I could for my life not tighten the screw that is positioned against the bottom of the trolley bar (I only did this on one side, have not touched the other bar). I pushed the screw very hard while trying to tighten but it was just rotating on and on without ever attach to anyhting. I even caused a small crack in the plastic around because of the force. The thing is that there are a couple of washers on this screw. three I guess, or perhaps even four? And I removed those washers and tried to tighten the screw anyway. That went very well. Since I am a complete loser in regards to mechanical stuff, I have no idea how bad it is to leave these washers out, or if it is bad at all? As far as I could conclude, this screw is only used to keep the bar more stable in position? Not that it would get loose without it, since it is also fastened into place with the help of a metal disc. Anyway, the screw I am referring to is the one pictured in the attached screenshot.
  24. I have a couple of screws on my KS-16 where the head has been slightly damaged. Since they are becoming quite hard to tighten/loosen, I am thinking of replacing them. But what are these screws called, what's the screw type I should look in search of replacement screws? It's those small screws that fixate the outer shell against the inner shell. And also used to fasten the LED strips on the outer shell...
  25. My review of the new KS16 from KingSong ... I will say it's everything that Ninebot should have done with model P ;-) - I think it's a winner... Review Summary Overall: I very pleased with the product (based on limited use).. I will say it's everything that Ninebot should have done with model P ;-) - I think it's a winner... Good stuff: It rides really well and offers a nice balance between power, comfort and stability.. Really nice design, very beautiful on the same level as Ninebot.. Material has a good feel and quality seems high.. Riding mode feels a lot stiffer than KS14c Very smart integration of the light (switching direction) Bluetooth seems a lot more intuitive than KS14c Integrated handlebar is a really great idea and it feels solid when it's not extracted.. Anti-slip on the pedal gives a really good contact to the food rest... Pedal height is good for tight turns Side protection cushions are placed perfectly and offers good support.. Rubber plastic cap for the charging port that is attached to the KS16 is really good... Bad/observations: Computer voice is really loud... It's nice at first, but this will annoy me in the long run. It can be switched off from the App More noisy than expected, high pitch noise is louder than KS14c and the cooling fan inside is notable.. What happens if the fan breaks? Missing a integrated park stand, it would be nice to have a way to park the unit upright and not have to lay it down. Fod pedal does not operate as smooth as I could wish, takes a lot of force to bring the down (minor thing)...
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