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EUC

Found 6 results

  1. First off I like both wheels and I am not here to tell you that one wheel is better that the other. There are strong opinions both ways and the people with those opinions are not crazy or finding faults where there are none. The truth is these wheels are very different. Switching from one wheel to the other shows obvious changes in reaction in you and the wheel. The following is observation, research and educated guessing. I could be wrong. Relatively Speaking: KingSong 18XL This wheel is very refined and uses advanced software. 1) The software allows a lower spike in amperage to achieve the same acceleration. Instead of one quick high spike In amperage it gives a longer burst of lower amperage. (Per correction time unit) 2) The software also aids the rider in creating acceleration. When you first lean on an XL the wheel hesitates to accelerate at first. It allows you to get in front of the wheel and then ramps up the power to catch you. When switching from the MSX to the XL this hesitation, dip and ramping up is very obvious to me. After a few seconds of adjusting to the wheel I think,”WOW!, This thing has pep!” You can roll and twist and throw yourself off balance and the wheel just catches you....... Untill you maneuver too quickly. It takes time for the wheel to catch up. This results in an unexpected jolt of force or a momentary loss of personal balance and pressure against the pedals. In the world of motor controls this action of going from a stop, rounding up to a steady acceleration then reducing the acceleration to a plateau of a steady speed is called the “S curve” Over all the system tends to give the rider a smoother more intuitive ride. It also gets more out of less. More mileage and great acceleration out of smaller board components. The one negative observation that I have found is that at high speed hitting a bump can set off a series of miscommunications. The hesitation, the lack of something to push on caused by a dip in the pedal that results in a rush of acceleration or braking that I did not intentionally request. This problem can usually be remedied by riding like a sane person. This wheel is best suited for people that enjoy the finer things like a smooth intuitive ride with options like speakers and lift handle cut off. It is less suited for people that say things like “ Hey! .. You want to race?” Or “ I bet I can jump over that missing man hole cover” MSuper X This wheel does not have the fancy software. It uses a larger more powerful board. Power saving and amp spike reduction be damned. You do not have the exaggerated S curve to get you going. When switching to the MSX from the XL most people (beginners especially) complain that it takes soooo much more pressure on the toes to move the thing. It is actually kinda sluggish! When you start to lean on the MSX the wheel immediately starts to compensate for your actions. This disallows you to lean forward making acceleration difficult. The wheel will not allow you to get off balance. The solution is to let yourself fall forward on the wheel without putting pressure on your toes. Then once you are leaning apply pressure to your toes. You could say that the XL has an automatic transmission ( the S curve) and the MSX has a clutch. ( you fall forward then put pressure on the toes. When switching from the MSX to the XL I forget and treat the XL like I would the MSX. I fall forward then apply pressure to my toes only to get a hesitation. I then apply more pressure fearing that I am going to fall on my face. By that time it takes off like a rocket. WOW! This thing has pep. The MSX requires more riding skills on your part and in exchange leaves the decisions to you. It does not guess your intentions or aid you in them. It remains indifferent. So witch is better? The XL is more refined with better fit and finish. More options like speakers, lift handle cut off, and it comes with a mud guard. It gives a more pleasant Intuitive ride at speeds below 25 mph. ( I love the thing) The MSX is a no nonsense, you do the driving wheel. You have to man handle the thing in turns, braking and acceleration. It has a larger board that allows higher continuous amperage. It accelerates and brakes faster. It tends to be more stable at speeds above 25 mph........(and I love it more ....... unless I am cruising behind my wife at 12 mph.)
  2. I'm just recovering from a major fall. I broke my leg and ankle in three places, tore all my ligaments off my foot, going down a somewhat steep hill in SF. I am 240 lbs/ 105kg and I assume the thing couldn't handle me. I was on a GW V3 and my motor just cut out and there goes my leg.. I was not going fast a steady 6mph breaking on a maybe 10-12 degree slope when all of the sudden it cut out and yeah.. I found out that there are not only limits to how fast but also on how much breaking or voltage or whatever you can draw from those machines. I highly recommend wearing boots, motorcycle or very solid ankle protecting boots like the once worn by EMS personal to avoid having to deal with the ligament damage not to mention fractures.. Will I ride again? Probably but avoid those hills
  3. Noillek

    GW IOS APP

    Hi all, Another question about the GW IOS APP, everytime that I open the app I need to connect to the whee again, all setting have been reset to default. This is very annoying anyone knows a workaround? Battery level is very unreliable to use. Calibration doesn't work... Would be be great to have a better experience with this wheel.
  4. Ian just published a very helpful video of disassembly and re-assembly of a Msuper V3: Again, this is Ian's video - not mine. So, if you appreciate his work, please head over to Youtube to give him some credit. Thanks!
  5. For the impatient: headlight effectiveness is visible from about 5:00 As days become shorter, I needed a brighter replacement for my just-enough-to-be-seen flimsy headlight to continue commuting with my Msuper. I'll probably bore you to death with my lengthy daylight introduction to my favorite stretch on the commute, which leads through a forestry park (recognise anything, @ScooterB ? ). It's perfectly smooth, interrupted by 20m of the nastiest cobblestone ever and there's always a chance of that tree branch lying where you don't want it. And after sunset, most of it is pitch black. After some searching, I found this 3 LED light http://www.ebay.de/itm/391104476033 for some 15 Euro. I'm sure, you can find similar on ebay.com or ali. While most LED headlights are made for bicycles and only mount to a handlebar, this one comes with a strap to tie it to your forehead. After removing the straps, the base plate can be easily attached to the Msuper with a couple of cable ties. The light itself is held to the base by a rubber string - firm enough to stay in place at bumpy rides, but I sure hope it comes off in case of a fall and does not act as a lever to break the wheel's shell. On illuminated streets I use the lowest setting to avoid blinding. On the dark stretch, I pushed it to max. power (it offers 3 levels, plus a sickening strobe). Batteries are in a separate pack with 4 x 18650's which I attach to my belt for the time being. Have mercy with my choice of music - I picked more or less the first soundtrack Youtube offered . I also used Youtube's anti-shake stabilizer. The effect on the victory column is quite spectacular .
  6. Hi, I'd like to pose a question to those familiar with or have technical expertise on motor/battery engineering - while the "official" word is that KS units do not cut off when pressed past their speed max/battery output, has anyone tested this theory? When I asked GW about their lack of this feature, per the GW rep, there is no such thing as an EU that does not cutoff after exceeding max speed/battery output. While the pedal-rising feature may discourage further pursuit of higher speeds, it doesn't guarantee the KS units have a smart feature built in to prevent cutoff. I just want to clear up any misinformation that may be present - currently what I have to go off of is GW rep vs KS rep but we all know that testing it is the only true way to find out - or thru understanding how these motors/batteries work. Per GW rep, the new units will have an optional pedal-rising feature selected via their app - this was intentionally done for a couple reasons: in a situation where high speeds are reached and a cutoff is imminent, flat pedals are actually better than rising pedals for a user to bail. Either way, it won't be pretty but the idea is that should your feet be in an angle due to rising pedals, you can't jump off. Another reason: if you practice safe driving near the max speeds, you don't have to worry about the annoyance of the rising pedals. Having the option I think seems the best of both worlds. Not saying that beeping isn't annoying, bc we know it sure is!
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