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Found 10 results

  1. da_toni

    Rockwheel GT16 App

    Rockwheel GT16 Android APP RockWheel-2017-4-12.apk The source where I downloaded the attached file is from the google drive link of a comment of the YouTube User Wing Kit Chu, from the video of Citi Wheel: https://youtu.be/YiL_Bnefces https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4SnC7pimmEUc1dPemx6V2NCR3JjbW15bVRLZkV3Zms3dS1z/view I have downloaded and renamed the file so that the android phone is able to recognize it as .apk file. (I just deleted ".1.1" at the end of the file...) I am not the author of this software. I am not the owner of the source. I do not assume liability for errors contained in or for damages arising from the use of the software.
  2. I was driving around for 1200km on my GT16 and the paint has been rubbed off where my shoes touch the surface on some points: After my second accident there were some scratches and cracks in the shell and some screws ripped off, too. This resulted in a soft and weak shell that was usable but the tire was rubbing when I went on the wheel with one foot first. Maybe because of this structurally softness I lost my fender when going offroad - I don't know but some day I had a wet ass and back when I was coming home ... So I thought I need a new shell, new fender and some new sidecovers and went to AliExpress: base shell $200.00 sidecover $70.00 /piece? fender $50.00 (wow ~2$/gram !!!) top cover $90.00 (now with led voltmeter) Gaiter Pad $32.00 /Pair ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Result $512.00 (when I need 2x sidecover) That's €420.- or 1722.- Reichsmark 80 years in the past (I'm from Germany) - a 1938 KDF Typ 60 'Volkswagen' should cost RM990.- when delivered When the plastic parts for my Rockwheel GT16 are more expensive than a 1938 Volkswagen I think I first have to check if I REALLY, REALLY NEED THIS. Short answer is: NOT NOW !!! I first dismantled everything and fixed the cracks in the shell with 2k glue, cutted the lower shell-parts off (which always scratched on bigger stones and curb edges in some situations) and reinforced the lower screwholes with another 2k filling material for wood. This material is hard and sticks well on the plastic but it's soft enough to not crack off when turning a screw in. First I thought about a cool shiny lamborghini yellow high glossy paint - but then I tended to a much more rough and tank-like styling. I choosed a 2k polyurethane color also known as 'bedliner' for pickup-trucks. I brush dabbed the colour by hand to get a light texture to the surface. If there are some bigger scratches or damages on the paint in the future it is more easy to dab with the brush invisibly. I changed all toy-like screws from the shell to high quality German 'Würth Assy' screws and mounted everything together. I generated a new fender (from a set of MTB plastic fenders for a few bucks) which fits in the old place - Simply to put in and out but not possible to slide anymore because of its different geometry. Now the shell is in excellent condition and when I step on the wheel with one foot first there is no rubbing and scrubbing anymore. Better than new and I think the shell was never that stiff before because even when it was new, while riding on one leg there always was a very slightly scrubbing. Although my method was so oldschool, the new painting looks much better than the original one that was made in China with spraygun where several places on the shell were not covered well with colour from all points of view. Additionally there is one big psychological advantage : on the next accident (and this is surely just a matter of time) I will only think "oh shit !!! Will my sunglasses survive ?" while my mind will stay totally cool about the shell. For the whole operation I paid not more than €50/$60 (bedliner:0.75ltr/€16.50 hardener:€3.50 MTB-Fender-set:€16,95) glue,2k-stuff,screws,sandpaper and some solvents were things I already had at home. Next things on my todo list is: Replace the non-water/dirtproof backlight max. €2.50 Replace the (crap-shitty-dark) frontlight max. €2.50 Add Mini-Voltmeter on the mainboard cover max. €3.00 Add some aditional LED's (but not crappy circus-style) max. €8.00 I have ordered these already on Amazon but I have to wait some time for delivery. The first frontlight LED has already arrived and I measured with a Lightmeter: Original GT16 Frontlight = 1900 Lux versus New LED frontlight = 6600 Lux It's a huge difference even without without measuring clearly visible with my eyes Because I ordered some different types of frontlights, I will wait until everything has been arrived and then choose the best one. I will make some pictures and a post from the electrical modification then, too.
  3. small Franco-American information sharing my future wheel
  4. So I bought a second hand GT16 for about 900€, it had 74 km on the clock and no real dents or scrapes. Given a new one in EU would cost close to twice that amount I took a chance, knowing full well that my frugal side could come bite me in the rear if I were unlucky. I got it on eBay from a seller with 60-ish positive comments and no negatives. I got it pretty fast, about a week from payment to delivery, and unpacked it with some trepidation and a suspicious mind. The positives were: It had no real dents and scratches except for on the pedals. It started OK, and balanced perfectly The app connected without fail, and the meter matched the pictures on eBay. It came with a trolley. The negatives on the other hand: The trolley was partly broken, but fixable. The LEDs on the sides were not connected, and there is not even a cord to connect them to unless that is stuck in the controller compartment. The mudflap is just as useless as people say, I'll have to look into what can be done about that. One of the plastic dampers for the pedals were missing, I fixed it with a skateboard riser. The same pedal were loose, meaning would not stay up when risen agains the shell. The shell sat somewhat loose on the wheel, it seems the screws connecting the shell to the wheel were not tight enough. Some of that is the breaks of the game when you buy second hand, but a few points were a bit worrying. Standing with my weight on one of the pedals the first time made the tire "screech" against the shell. The dreaded "cracked axle" ghost raised its head grinning my way. But as it turned out, the reason were fourfold: One - the air valve stuck out a bit too much, two - the screws to the shell needed tightening, three - the shell is not as rigid as it should be, and four - the tolerances are too small. The last aspect is my main negative feeling about the wheel, it could well have a quarter-inch more space around the tire on all sides, where the tire meets the shell. That would make the mudflap immensely more useful, would eliminate the risk of the valve or the sides of the tire rubbing against the shell, and maybe even allow a 2.5" tire upgrade... Also, the screws connecting the shell to the pedals, which AFAIK are the only twelve screws that hold the shell to the wheel, doesn't even have washers. Basically the screw sits directly on the shell, which seem outright stupid. A metal backing, washer or a plate, would spread the forces over a bigger area, making the connection stronger. Four of those are the bottom screws that sits below the pedals, and there is no form of metal backing there either. Sure the forces push the pedal towards the shell, but there are side-forces too. I fixed the trolley with loctite, a cable tie and some really strong weave-tape. I also added chrome strips, to avoid my clumsy self killing the beauty of the wheel. The loose pedal turned out to be a combination of the tightening screw being loose enough that the pedal axle had moved around. So when the previous owner tightened it, the flat part where the adjustment screw should grip had slipped around. Taking it apart, and putting it together correctly solved the problem beautifully. I added skateboard gripping tape to the pedals, the really rough kind. You can't see it on the pic, but there is some silver tape on the shell under the pedal to avoid imprinting the grip tape on the shell. Will get rubber stickers or something to replace it with. Now to learn to actually ride the darn thing... I now realise my Inmotion V3 have given me some really, really bad habits. The first half hour, in the middle of the night, were like going to the bloody gym! Today, the second day, I actually got on unassisted for the first time and rode my first ten meters before a controlled stop. Good exchange for 45min of trials, still exhausting though. There's still a lot of familiarisation to do, and a lot of twin wheel stupidities to unlearn, but I see the light at the end of the tunnel. With this tempo I will be zipping around in no time The bad habits to unlearn are: almost no leaning of the wheel before getting on; getting on first, then start rolling; going really, really slow – plus the lower center of gravity on that wheel with lower pedals and 14" wheels. I look forward to getting used to a "true" unicycle. I'll report more as things progress...
  5. houseofjob

    16" Tire Width Options

    Curious to see the favorite tire size preference for the favorite 16" EUC category....
  6. da_toni

    Deep experience with GT16

    Hello everyone, i wanted to open a new topic related to all Rockwheel GT16 owners and for those who are willing to get one. I've ordered for my girlfriend from AliExpress (Rockwheel Store, mr. Yi Chen) a GT16 84V with 858Wh and we hope to get the wheel within the next 3 weeks. The reason to buy an GT16 instead of Inmotion V8 or Kingsong KS16 (-S) was the sporty and completely different design. Also the capacity of the battery and the good experience including trust to the seller was one reason to order the wheel "blind". I hope we do not get disappointed with our choice. To bridge that time I wanted to know your experience about the GT16. Is it durable? How does it look like with additional firmware updates, is there a possibility with bluetooth and smartphone app? I would greatly appreciate if you could share your experiences and insights with us so far.
  7. houseofjob

    GOTWAY Tesla: Double Redundancy [VIDEO]

    So the "double redundancy" claimed on the new Ninebot One Z marketing points also exists on the current Gotway Tesla and GT16 (reportedly 4x redundancy), as shown below:
  8. Hi everybody I am Barry from RW ,work for sales manger. we are looking for agents and commerial cooperator. Contact me if you are interested in Rockwheel. E-mail:barrychen@rockwheel.cn FB:https://www.facebook.com/barry.chen.37017 Whatsapp:8615999891630 Thanks
  9. Roue Libre

    Rockwheel GT16 and visit at Urban360

    Hi folks, I was passing by Paris yesterday, and it was a great opportunity to pass by Urban 360 (https://store.urban360.com/) where they have many wheels in stock, and even available for testing ! I was so excited to test the GT16, but that was the only wheel I couldn't test. Because the motherboard of the GT 16 they have in stock just burned after 100km ! I have been talking with one of the guys working there. He basically told me That version is not supposed to be a prototype, it's the production version If you want to change the tire, it's a hell: you have to deteriorate the shell to access it (aaargh ) The support of the pedal was originally having a piece of rubber that detached after few time, causing the pedal to brutally fall down of 4degrees (dangerous ) he replaced the bad rubber piece by a plastic stuff, but it looked like DIY The pedal surface is in rubber, so you need to add your own grip Isolation against humidity should probably be fine In general, this wheel is dangerous and Rockwheel should rework it at engineering level My personal observations were The wheel is really tiny, doesn't feel hard to carry by hand The pedal is quite narrow, even for my feet that are not so big (40/41EU size) The rubber part of the pedal is kind of big enough, but the metal part underneath is really small, not sure it gives enough stability When folding up the pedal, there seem to be no magnet like for Ninebot or Gotways, so the pedals might just not keep folded after a while The on/off button is located just under the handle, which is handy to pick the wheel up and turning it off with one hand (Gotway should do the same IMO) I thought there would be a kind of "shock absorption" mechanism under the pedals, but it seems the pedals are screwed with the shell, no possible vertical motion of the pedal So I decided to give up on GT16 for now. Maybe I would buy a later, upgraded version if they ever upgrade it. Off topic: I took this opportunity to test the ACM 16 and MSuper v3 in a row. I was disappointed by the MSuper, it doesn't feel easy to sharp-turn at all. The ACM is sooo much more handy to take sharp turns. I definitely prefer the ACM and I will probably buy it instead of the Rockwheel. That's it guys. If you buy the GT16, be very careful.
  10. So, as I wait for my GT16 to arrive (ETA next week), ..... Dug up an interesting tidbit from a Korean NAVER Blog GT16 Review [source] [google-translated] about the GT16 having app-less balancing / leveling capability: Turn off GT16 Turn on and hold GT16 until the last prolonged beep, then let go (sequence will be 4 short, consecutive beeps, then 1 long prolonged beep) Level the wheel Press the power button. Wheel will now be balanced. Apparently the previous Rockwheel TB14 had the same function.
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