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Here is an image of the controller board from my generic electrically locked up Step-n-Roll, with wire color codes, for reference. If anyone has information on the undocumented connector lands, I will be happy to update the image and re-post.

Read more on project page: https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki EGG Electric Unicycle is a DIY and OpenSource design that can be customized for specific needs (more batteries, powerful motor, lights, etc). Main characteristics of current version: Max velocity up to 30km/h 2 battery packs making a total of 264W (range of 20kms on flat roads with a rider of 100kgs) 500W motor, 14 inches wheel Bluetooth for configuration and reading in real time the speed, current, board temperature, etc Video promotional: Video "EGG Electric Unicycle - promotion at Makerfaire Lisbon":

Pictures below will show you how to assemble an electric unicycle step by step, components are all available on Alibaba. Any questions related, please feel free to ask me.

Hello everyone, Happy to join this forum. I ordered my generic EUC from China and have it already 3 weeks. Learning to ride is kind of challenge, exactly what I was looking for. But the funniest part is the faces of the people, their looks and stares…the car drivers even slow down…and comments like: what is that, ooh that’s what I need, how do you control it, does it have engine...ooh mom look that dude what is he on...and the mom's answer: he is on ...something ...and the best so far...look, look that dude is riding vacuum cleaner I think I’m the first one having and using EUC in my country, let’s see next summer in some park or in resort area, at that time I may encounter someone else. Yesterday learned hard way that riding close to the curb is very dangerous…one small touch of the footrest, EUC turned furiously and I did spectacular faceplant…hopefully only small bruise on my knee. I’m in good physical shape nevertheless entering my 50’s, but here was more of physiological problem of new rider I believe – in a new environment or path or situation, the attention is more divided and is easier to make mistakes, especially ones that you are not aware of. I believe my learning curve would go more smoothly having you guys here in this forum. All the best and Happy New Year

Been riding now for four months in San Francisco. LOVE IT! Totally have the EUC bug. My X3 clone (Fotowelt X30, LOL) is awesome. But I've noticed something and am wondering if anybody has 1) experienced the same thing or 2) discovered a workaround. For the first five minutes or so of my ride, my wheel angles the pedals toward the rear, so the tips of my toes stick into the air, and my heels are closer to the ground. After a few minutes, my wheel seems to level out and I can ride without such an extreme tilt. What I've tried to do is stop and start multiple times, or slow down from full speed repeatedly to level things out. Though things eventually level out, I can't say I've discovered a repeatable solution, or even the problem. Can anybody suggest what is happening or if it's even a problem?

I'm from the Philippines and I wanted to buy a electric unicycle ( to get to school and back home which is 6kms back and forth) but the thing is I don't have any options on which to buy but I've found 3 on the net. Which of this 3 is better ? I don't know the technical stuff specs but I hope you help me Here's the link 1. http://www.lazada.com.ph/moonwheel-e-001-electric-unicycle-black-440356.html Link 2 http://www.lazada.com.ph/x3-electric-wheelbarrow-unicycle-blackred-470355.html link 3 http://www.lazada.com.ph/mars-kingdom-f3-mk-moonwheel-black-249365.html thanks

Hello! Recently, I've bought a second-hand generic EUC. It runs nice, but it has a problem with the battery. When charging, the battery only charges continuously for about 5-10 minutes before starting to pulse on and off. It fully stops charging at about 20-30 minutes. When I turn it on, the battery indicator only shows 3 out of 4 bars, and after driving for about 20 meters, it goes back to 2 bars. The full range is around 800m - 1km before it starts beeping and is completely empty. Being somewhat of an electronics hobbyist, I opened the battery pack and measured the cell voltages after a complete charge and about 100-200m of driving (showing solid 2 bars, and dipping to 1 bar when accelerating). These are the values I measured: Cell 1: 3.715V Cell 2: 3.644V Cell 3: 3.797V Cell 4: 3.889V Cell 5: 3.845VCell 6: 3.751VCell 7: 4.080V Cell 8: 3.961V Cell 9: 3.760V Cell 10: 3.707V Cell 11: 3.608VCell 12: 3.694VCell 13: 3.762V Cell 14: 3.584VCell 15: 3.823VCell 16: 3.801V These values seem to me to not be good at all, with a maximum difference in voltages between cells of half a volt! I'm not sure if this is because of a defective BMS, or is there one/multiple faulty cells? I did order some replacement cells with the same mAh-rating, but I'm still waiting for them to arrive. I can most definitely rule out the charger, as I have two, and they don't seem to produce different results. A picture of the BMS: What do you think? Maybe I should drain/charge the battery completely and see how the voltages change? Thanks!

Hello! have a cheap $250 generic with speakers and headlights. My first mod will be to hack the shell up and remove the fender area. This will make it easier to offroad with(no grass will hangup on the fenders), and then I will figure out how to raise the pedals. My next question is a motherboard upgrade. I wish it would go faster than 8mph than beeping and tilting pedals till i jump off. I know some people on here have done this mod. first pic is mine.

Success! (Almost) finally for my little upgrade project. First a quick recap. I had a chinese direct generic 550watt EUC with usual 18km/hr top speed, standard pedal rising and annoying beeps.. but a good performer. Been the hacking geek and not satisfied with the speed I ordered a 30 km/h microworks built mcm control board (30BS), with bluetooth. It looked quite different from my original board (which had no bluetooth). Sadly it wouldnt ride, after many combos of hall sensors and power leads I gave up and went back to my original board, but then while installing some LED lights I shorted out the board and was left with no ride! So then my choice was to buy one of the generic 18km/h boards available (18B) or try the 24 km/h microworks board that looked almost identical to my old board. I decided for the price ($50 NZD incl shipping) it was worth the gamble for higher top speed. So it arrived today just one week later, in a very small cardboard box with almost no packaging, and i hooked it up using standard red yellow green blue black for hall sensors and yellow green blue for the power wires.. no go.. violent acceleration and calibration wouldnt engage using the two calibration wires. Big sigh and decided to keep trying combinations, did all hall sensor combos (6) and then decided to swap green and blue wires on power leads and hall sensors.. bingo! These seem to be the two wires that are most commonly swapped in different manufacturers. this time however i also needed to swap the hall sensors green and blue also. With the 30BS controller it was swap green and blue power and leave hall sensors as per spec. So even with different controllers from the same manufacturer then wiring is different, even though they send you the same wiring manual for each and tell you that the 24B and the 18B model wiring is the same.. um.. its not! Ok so whats strange so far is that the calibration doesnt work. I cant get it to calibrate as per manual. IE the wheel doesnt spin and then give a long beep to confirm successful calibration. It just pauses and then beeps saying calibration didnt happen. But it rides quite well so far. Odd thing is that, well its night time now and I didnt have a bike helmet handy so I wasnt willing to push it too fast, so tomorrow I will have a ride in daylight with helmet on and phone gps to test the speed. Because in my test ride I wasnt able to get the pedal to rise and I seemed to be going about 20km/h, and wasnt prepared to risk any faster without knowing what was going to happen, because it seems that when I hit approx 20km/h it tilted slightly forwards rather than backwards! this was quite disconcerting! maybe im imagining it because im used to obvious tilt back from my old controller or maybe it is not behaving correctly.. but im happy that its ridable and definitely way faster than original model.. im just curious to see if there is any top speed because holding the wheel off the ground and tilting it forward it accelerates, starts beeping at a certain angle but never cuts out no matter how far i lean forward.. this is weird also. So sorry this is so long, I just figured Id save having to answer a whole bunch of questions and just give as much detail as possible. If I can get it to calibrate i`ll feel a lot safer about testing its top speed. But im pretty excited to have it running this well with tons of torque! In the pics is original blown controller on the right and new one on the left. They look identical more or less. Interestingly this controller is sold for a 16 inch wheel but my wheel is 14 inch. Guys on russian forum said thats not a problem and they have used 16 inch controllers on 14 inch wheels. Im wondering if I should keep trying hall sensor and power cable combinations in case I still dont actually have the correct configuration for the controller to engage calibration? Other pic is the 30BS board that didnt work.

Hi People, I tried an electrical unicycle about one and a half month ago at a barbecue, after that, I immediately ordered one Update I measured the range using a gps on a real track, and apparently it has the better range than first noted ~10km, I have updated the text accordingly.After increasing the tire pressure from ~1bar to 3.1bar, the range was increased by 3 km to ~13km I purchased the cheapest electrical unicycle I could find on amazon.co.uk - no specs, and I expected to pay import tax, luckily, that didn't happen. Now, since I'm starting to get annoyed about various aspect, I trawled the net until I found the manufacturer... it is here: http://www.mywheel2014.com/product/product-47-79.html Some stats: Price: 297€ Motor-Power: 350W (Probably a bit smallish for me, my weight is ~78kg) Specified range: 18-20km Real Range: approximately 13km, (I will have to find some flat track with known length to test more exact.) Pros: CheapFun to ride while full battery (20min)Cons: Weak battery (Only really fun for 20min, ok perhaps 30 min)Horrible build quality (The battery lid broke off in a crash and the battery fell out...)hurts the calvesGets unstable to ride after 25min, so you have to be very careful with acceleration.I can supply some more pictures documenting how it is possible to make the worst imaginable design for the hull... Hint, the battery lid, the thing that the rubber part folds around. There is nothing but the screws to help the lid withstand frontal force. Here are some pictures of the beast: And the part that have fallen off (Fixed with Gaffa-tape)

I have a brand new Generic 14" wheel. For $350 It looks like a black/red Airwheel X3. I made a warranty claim on a generic 14". They ended up sending me a new one, but I had already bought a Ninebot (they expected me to be without a wheel for several weeks? ;-) ). So there it is. It's BRAND NEW. I just opened the box to take the picture. It comes with training wheels, charger, air pump, valve extender, lights for the pedals and a roll of protective foam. If possible I'd rather you pick it up. But if you wanna pay shipping in the US we can figure that out).

Summary: Riding an electric unicycle starts as a major challenge. It might seem impossible at first, but you'll get it fast! The learning almost feels automatic.A cheap unicycle is good for learning, and there might be more people around to learn than you expect.Spend a little more if this is gonna be your only one.A smaller unicycle is more nimble and lighter to carry than a bigger one, but bumps aren't quite as easy to handle. Small for fun, big for transportation.The full review journal is located here if you'd like to check it out (link)