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Found 12 results

  1. This was the best case scenario today: I impressively learned that I still can't do it. I hit a speed bump that I hadn't seen at all (not yet painted, hence black in black, and me focussing somewhere else) at maybe 15km/h and boom, belly on the floor. Nothing serious happened. A small hole in the jacket and I can distinctively feel a bruised elbow and knee, compellingly reminding me that I still can't do it. I have practiced going over this type of speed bump for a while at various speeds, even without looking, but of course always prepared and knowing what was coming. Yet it didn't help (yet). This lesson raises the interesting question: how to train being prepared for the unexpected? Otherwise, any good physical reminder to stay careful is somewhat the best scenario possible.
  2. EDIT 2018: This is a thing of the past now for "brand-name" wheels (including 2017 models, and even older), but you can still overpower/overlean the wheel when really pushing it, nothing to do with the BMS Most unicycles use bicycles' BMS which has a overdischarge cut-off circuit (Q1) to prevent the battery from discharging under the LiIon recommanded voltage. It's a feature usefull for off-the-shelf bicycles' batteries but for monocycles, it's 1) unecessary since the mainboard deals quite well with voltage warning 2) utterly, incredibly stupid since a cutoff by the BMS results in a faceplant for the rider. In other words, the wheel's designer prefers to protect the battery by hurting the user!!! Many many users have been harmed, especially when the wheel is cold (under 10°C), since the batteries' internal resistance increases and triggers the cut-off more easily. Of course, not all wheels are affected by such incredibly stupid "feature". AFAIK, Solowheel, Ninebot, Inmotion, ie reputable brands don't cut off. Gotway has early versions that cut-off but its recent BMSs don't, since the cut-off circuit has been removed. All others do, if not proven otherwise. So they are dangerous since the probability of cut-off will increase with cold weather coming and higher internal resistance due to natural battery aging. For prospective unicycle buyers, insist to have a safe BMS, ie without the cut-off. With enough pressure from users, the Shenzen genious will end up repairing this horrible blunder. For those stuck with an unsafe wheel, the BMS cut-off circuit MUST be shunted. When touching the battery pack, if you can feel under the shrinkwrap film the big mosfet transistors, it means the BMS must be shunted. The idea is to connect the battery's 0V (B-) directly to the power output (P-), bypassing the mosfets T1 responsible for the stupid cutoff : see the dotted green line in the schematics below. (B-) and (P-) are now standard markings on most BMS boards, so any BMS can be modified by laymen based on this principle. You can see immediately the improvement by testing the wheel with strong accelerations, no more cut-off, ever ! Enjoy and have a safe ride. Below are some examples of BMS shunt. Some remarks : - no need to disconnect the battery during the operation - for Airwheels, only dismount the half housing on the side of the battery (the side without the control panel). - T1 is usually composed of 2 or 3 or even more Mosfets, so it's distinctive from X1 usually made of just one mosfet. - On most boards' layouts, T1 is marked as Q1, X1 is marked as Q2 P.S. For more pictures and photos source credit of modders, see my original thread here : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/sutra13862_solution-probleme-bms.html#13862 TG BMS. The T1 transistors can be felt through the plastic wrap. The plastic is scapeled around T1. T1 is made of 3 paralleled MOSFET transistors. MOSFET's drain & source pins are shunted by a solder blob. Warning, avoid shunting X1 Mosfet. The plastic is closed by electrician tape. A smaller opening can be made, mine is unecessarily big. TG BMS, with CMS Mosfet Dolphin D5 BMS. 3 mostfets T1 are shunted. X1 at extreme right is NOT shunted. T1 and X1 are detected by measuring the mosfet' gate voltage (pin 1) : paralled mosfets have the same gate voltage.. Airwheel X8 BMS. T1 and X1 are not easily distinguishable. When in doubt, shunt the two middle Mosfets. Recent version Gotway BMS : no T1 circuit => no shunt to do. It's a safe BMS. Aliexpress generic battery BMS (Q1=T1 ; Q2=X1) Another Airwheel BMS, shunt directly B- to P- instead of shunting the mosfets Another generic wheel BMS. Shunt B- to P- SML160 BMS. Don't bother with shunting the mosfets. Shunt B- to P- instead. Firewheel BMS. B- shunted to P- by a big wire. Route the wire like in the picture to avoid adding thickness to the battery pack. Note that the B- wire here is red instead of the usual black color code for negative pole, an occurrence of lack of care (other Firewheel BMSs have the right color, ie black) which can be very misleading. Edit 2015/05/25 : Q1 & Q2 are ambiguous, replaced by T1 & X1
  3. V5f doesn't charge or turn on. With shell removed and tested, battery indicates zero voltage (72v original, 84v charger). On charger connect, registers 24v for 5 seconds, then drops back to zero. Battery, bms, charger or sleep problem? https://youtu.be/JK-phwb74-4 Another Li-po 48V scooter battery registers 24v, when lamp connected flickers on/off at maybe 10 blocks/second. Problem/solution?
  4. Shutdowns generally end like this and are as painful as this looks. Notice how her feet are in space and can't push against anything to break the fall. If, like me, you ride slower than you can run, overleans and other mishaps can be recovered by stepping off but the physics is different in a shutdown and you can't just step off. It is like this. This guy demonstrates the technique for an unpowered dismount. From the moment of unbalance he is falling but he lifts his knee quickly enough to get his foot forward under his body and uses the forward momentum to lift him like a pole vaulter. He knows it's coming and the physics is not opposite to what he is expecting so a shutdown for you is more difficult than for him. My four ended in more pain than any other mishap. On many wheels battery protection has been prioritised over rider protection which can lead to a shutdown without warning. Wheels designed this way and fitted with low quality batteries can shut down at any time but even with good batteries they become dangerous as the batteries age. A rider is only likely to be aware of a rare and mysterious catastrophic failure on a wheel that was for a long time safe. Early battery replacement with good cells will avoid shutdowns or the battery can be modified. The graph below for an Airwheel X8 shows published battery data overlaid with testing data of an aging cell X (black), damaged cells X (grey) and a generic battery with different, damaged cells X (blue). The discharge rate for the X tests was 0.2 amps. The aging cells were still able to sustain a voltage above the tilt back/warning voltage long enough to warn a rider but the damaged cells went from above the warning voltage to below the shutdown voltage too quickly. The generic battery had a shutdown voltage higher than the warning voltage, making it unsuitable for this Airwheel X8 from new. A longer version of this summary is published elsewhere.
  5. Maximus

    Respect the King

    So, I've been riding my V8 for about 3 months now, no problems, and I've pushed the wheel pretty hard. In contrast, I've been riding my new KS-14C for about one day and I now have my first official faceplant . It was everything I thought it would be. First off, it had to happen in front of three young dudes shooting hoops. I cruised by playing some Bob Marley from the sweet KS speakers and then turned around at the end of the road and proceeded to crank back past them....I heard the beeps warning me that I was going too fast, but before I could back off and lean backward the wheel just stopped. My whole body fell forward like I was in slow motion. I tried to put a foot down but I was going about 15mph, so running this out was not going to happen. All I remember was my hands going forward and the realization that I was going to take huge digger in front of these guys. Much to my surprise, I popped up rather quickly. My wheel bounced around a bit, but I was in one piece! It was a miracle. My fleece jacket wasn't ripped, I was in shorts, not even a scratch on my knees! My wrist guards were ground down quite a bit, but only on the plastic, none of the leather or glove material was damaged. I hit my elbows pretty hard and had road rash, but oddly no damage to my clothes other than some tears of my shorts by my left hip. I'm sore. I can tell the brunt of the fall was obsorbed by my wrists and hip, but all in all I feel extremely fortunate. My ego took a hit, but on the plus side it has served as a reminder to slow down. It also is a reminder of how awesome the inmotion wheels are. Seriously, I've pushed the limits of my V8 and no concern even entered my mind about it cutting out. I like the KingSong wheel, right up until it cut out I was thinking "damn, I might like this more than my V8!"... Anyway, for any new rider of a KS-14C, be careful, and wear your safety gear
  6. Henrik Olsen

    Gotway Msuper v3 cutout

    I have a friend that keep claiming he does not trust Msuper V3 (820wh model) because it has been reported that some users have experienced random cutout I do not seem to be able to find the evidence in the GW group, but does he have a point? I have not experienced this with my own V3 - 820wh but I have never ridden it above 35 kph.
  7. Sidestreet Reny

    Piggyback ride faceplant!

    I was giving my girlfriend a ride on my back while going up a steep hill.....on a god damned Airwheel X3!!! Together we way 250 pounds (me 150 her 100) and it just gave up on the way up the hill, no warning...except of course common sense. lol. My lady obviously landed on me, that's why I landed on my face...but my beautiful girlfriend did make it out of the ordeal with a little scrape on her shoulder...thank god! My knee is fucked up, but I should be back up riding in a week or two, as long as I heal well...and quick! God willing. BTW A helmet would have just lifted my forehead on impact pushing my lower face to the cement and left me without teeth or a broken nose....just in case anyone wonders, believe it or not, I got lucky! I am alive and walking, and so is my lady.
  8. viti

    faceplanted

    Hi All, I want to inform you of an accident I had two days ago. (I have about 170 Km overall on my IPS Zero) I was on my way home on my IPS Zero, driving in the middle of a small side street at night as, only 150 meters from home, I consciously thought: let's accelerate to drive home fast. I wore a helmet and motorbike gloves. Estimated speed about 8 to 10 Km/h. I accelerated fast leaning forward. But this time I accelerated to fast (=overleaning forward). I felt the pedals going down ... with me falling forward. It happened so fast I had no time to 'think about it'. I just 'somehow' fell to the ground. I felt an impact on my head and felt that I was bleeding 'somewhere in the face'. Was conscious all the time. Fortunately nobody/nothing was around to be hurt/damaged. I hurried home to find the following: - I must somehow tried to hold of the fall with my hands but nevertheless I faceplanted and the helmet and my nose had direct contact with the pavement. - I have a wound on the nose, nose a bit swollen and minor bruises on the knee's. - No bruise on the palms (thanks to the gloves) just a bid of pain because of my weight. - Today I still have some pain in the right shoulder, arm - will recover, no problem. I'm convinced the helmet took most of the force of the impact on my head and prevented further trouble and pain. PIctures: Nose: about 1 hour after impact Helmet: the edge of the helmet was smooth before the accident! Gloves: on the right you see the left glove. The leather surface of the palms looked similar before the accident. The Zero is ok. - Just a minor scratch on one side.
  9. I would like to share my experience with you. Just shunted my BMS to avoid a faceplant, and some days later ironically a had my first serious high speed faceplant on asphalt ground caused by a power cut off. :-( Yesterday I was in hospital because beside my left hand starts to get blue and hurt when grabbing something, my shoulder hurts very much. I can’t move my arm freely. First result of examination: No bones broken. Good! But if the articular capsule and/or sinews in the area of the shoulder are injured, is not clear now. This will be uncovered by the recovery process, the doctor said. Mhm, not so good. The reason for the faceplant? I fear, that I was too fast and too sure every thing is under control. But this time I have to be lucky about the consequences of the face plant. It could be easily worse. Trying to analyze the cause this faceplant, but it is very hard for me to remember the seconds (or fractions of seconds) it happens. Short before I fall over (because the unit/main board cut off the power) I remember something that was disturbing my balance. May be it was a hump in the asphalt or a very short but quite noticeable tilt back from the unit as final speed warning (as I mentioned in the BMS shunting thread). However, just after that I start to fall over. It was one of the worst feelings I remember, when the paddles sag through and I know what is going to happen. Next I remember was laying on my back and that my left shoulder, arm and hand hurts. In addition I have some scratch at my left knee, even nothing happened (at least visible) to the jeans I wore. My only gear was a bicycle helmet and some motor cycle cloves. In this case it was sufficient, because I had some scratches at the helmet and the touch down with both hands protected by the cloves. The force when landing on my hands transferred mostly via my left arm to the shoulder could not ward off by any gear equipment, I believe. The Jacket I wore, has a 12 cm long crack (on the back in hight of the left shoulder) and is not longer usable. Shoes and trousers are not damaged. The wheel lies on the side, prompted me „Restart the unicycle“ and has some more scratches than before. Later on I checked the max speed on my mobile phone measured with the GPS app android tacho: 30 km/h! So even slower, than the app measured the last max speed I rode (accidentally) with 33km/h and had no power cut off! The battery was quite good charged and showed after unit restart 86%. That’s reasonable for my F528 after a fully recharge and about 8km riding. The outside temp was about 7 degrees Celsius and the ground was flat. Thus either the GPS speed measuring is very imprecise or the main board cuts off the power on different high speeds, even the battery is almost fully charged. Conclusions: - Wear gear to protect your body as well as possible! - Never go beyond the the final warning, here „take care, take care“ at about 28 km/h. Note: As I wrote in my BMS shunting thread, I made the speaker volume adjustable and it was switched at this time to low volume mode (about 50%), so I didn’t hear the voice warnings. So if you would like to speed, make sure your hear the (voice) warnings, even it is annoying. - Don’t make a race with bicycle rides, you may loose … and not only the race, but also your health! - Never think you have everything under control, you won’t. Did you have similar experience? What’s your conclusion?
  10. SlowMo

    Faceplants!

    While browsing on youtube, I found some very funny compilations with the theme "Faceplants". I want to share this to show how actual faceplants hurt even though they are funny to look at. We as EUC riders should always be aware and try to prevent this things from happening by riding at "safe" speeds and being always on alert for any obstacles and hazards like sticks, stones, potholes, curbs, humps etc. Of course, sudden shutdowns for whatever reason will never prevent us from having one. Be safe guys.
  11. Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer"

    My first faceplant on borrowed Ninebot 1 E

    I met up today with another Kingsong owner to flash a new bin file to his wheel to fix a flaw in the bluetooth module that prevents the settings app from working correctly on some of the early 800watt units.I have the KS-18A and mine was one of the units with the flaw.I was unable to successfully flash my unit so I had to replace the control board and now all is well with my wheel.I am also helping anyone near my location with the same problem so today I met up with a 14C owner to flash his unit and it worked perfectly.After a 3 mile ride to the local Starbucks with my new found riding companion,he let me try is his Ninebot 1 E that he had brought along with his Kingsong.I own a 12in wheel,2 14in wheels and the KS-18A ,but have never been on a 16in wheel so the opportunity to try a 16in.Ninebot one E was a no brainer.My first impression was that it felt stiff and very responsive and I liked the ride and power.I rode about 200yrds. down the street and then u turned and headed back up the street towards my house.Since the street in front of my house is inclined at 6 or 7 degrees I wanted to test the Ninebot's uphill acceleration and thus proceeded to accelerate back towards the house.As soon as I was passing the house doing maybe 10-11 mph bam,the One E through me off like a bad habit.Except for a little road rash on my kneecaps and elbows I am unscathed.I am also probably not going to get a Ninebot.It was at the top of list for my next wheel since a 16in model is one size which I have yet to acquire.I hope Kingsong releases their 16in model soon!
  12. dmethvin

    Road Rash Treatment

    I had a pretty rough faceplant this weekend on a sidewalk that led to a nasty road rash. It taught me that I should probably be wearing at least long pants, but since I am a stubborn guy and want to look and feel cool all the time (it's 90F/32C around here) I would prefer to just fix the boo-boos when they occur. (Scars are cool, right?) Anyway, as you might expect the two-wheel cyclists have already had to deal with this. There is a clear plastic-like stuff called Tegaderm that is great for helping road rash heal. You clean the wound and wait until the bleeding stops for 24 hours or so, then apply the Tegaderm and it helps the wound heal much faster. The fact that it's like skin against you is also nice, much less visible under clothing than gauze or bandages. The problem with Tegaderm is that it's really expensive if you buy it locally. I got four 4x4-inch pads at my local drugstore for $20, that hurt almost as much as the road rash. Places like Amazon have it for much less, so it's worth buying some to stock up just in case you crash. And face it, you're gonna crash.
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