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Greetings. Topic: Possibilities for salvage/fix old EUC beyond warranty, used outside specifications (frequently beyond max load and driven in rain, snow/frost, mud, offroad). Abstract: Used my Esway Mars Rover ES-E3 daily for over 3 years for transport to and from school, for buying food and joyriding/exploring. 35-45% of those days I rode until battery was empty. Went up and down very steep hills with incline 10-25 degrees paved and gravel. Usually at or above max load capacity. Some days I packed my schoolbooks and skis and rode up a bumpy mountain road that didnt have asfalt so I could study up on the mountain and ride my skis back home. Of course this use has taxed every system of the EUC beyond capacity. Now my beloved transport system suddenly stops when I do a maneuver that requires high power such as rapid acceleration up a steep hill, making very sharp turn at high speed/accelerating or carrying a load near/above max capacity). Sudden and complete shutdown of all systems (which might very well be my fault for tampering with every single part of the system) Maintenance: Once a month: Complete disassembly. Inspection, measurements of components and replacement or repair of any component outside specified tolerance. Cleaning and resealing all electronics. On first inspection replaced all wires subjected to stress and high current with extra heavy duty insulated wires soldered in and secured with added deadlength to absorb stress and vibration between solid anchors (metalclamps or heavyduty strips). Cleaning drivebolt/nuts with rubbing alcohol, re-applying threadlock and tighten with torquewrench. Simple loadtest of battery (measure voltage when fully charged, then observe the drop in voltage when applying load). Tirepressure and drivebearings check (low tirepressure makes the motor work harder and decreases battery life. Drivebearings checked after re-applying threadlock and tightening to specified torque using torquewrench (no powertools) by securing the kajigger between your knees or in a vice with thick rubber inlays by the drivebolt when disassembled. Jiggle wheel in caster and camber angle to feel for loose bearing. If jiggling creates movement on an otherwise secures drivebolt the tolerance of the bearing can be checked with a micrometer and be replaced. These bearings are very cheap at most machine shops (around 2USD) and the partnumber is printed on the seal of the bearing.) Each following month complete disassembly, visual inspection, cleaning and checking torque on drivebolt and how much the battery voltage drops when putting a load on it. Note: These batteries might seem good when only subjected to slight load. The benchload test using something like lightbulbs is therefor useful for the inspection process of wires, electronics and battery connection. Accelerating sharply in a hill, turning aggressively with the wheel in a very sharp angle or similiar does put a load on your battery because of high poweroutput, but you shouldn't use this method to check if your battery handles load. Retailers selling motorcycle batteries will have the equipment to test your battery if you experience lacking performance. **Note: Warranty void since complete disassembly for cleaning, re-application of thread-lock to drivetrain, batterycheck, re-securing wires and troubleshooting electronics.**. My initial point to this thread was to get a solution to my specific problem with my specific model (discontinued Esway ES-E3). The wheel just stops when I ride aggressively and requires a reset which is done by plugging in the charger. EDIT: loadtest both bench and proper load while riding seems fine. Dang these segment batteries are hard to troubleshoot without cutting open the sealed pack. Further discussions or ideas here could be similar problems with other EUC and general re-purposing/salvage/overhaul projects.