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NineTool - Program for changing the model of the euc 9bot. Program Description in Spanish Supports models C/C+/E/E+/P Supports models A1/B1/S2/Turbo(The secret model with increased power and a maximum speed of 30km/h) Supports models Z6/Z8/Z10 To change the model, you need an activation code, you can get it from me, you need to send a screenshot of the program screen on the example as in the screenshot below Download EVERYTHING YOU DO WITH YOUR DEVICE, YOU DO AT YOUR OWN RISK. Described in this topic may reduce the security of your device, and no one except you is not responsible for the execution of actions mentioned in the post.
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So back in the day most everyone of us rode the Ninebot One E+. No matter how hard I pushed the device at it's top speed despite the tilt back I was never able to get it to cut out. I did however manage to overlean the device by accelerating too hard. Was it my lack of skill back then to push my E+ beyond the max speed or is it that modern wheels don't have the same protection for riders to not reach cut out speed? Why can't the wheel just not permit the rider to go beyond a certain speed?
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Hi all, I'm looking to buy my first EUC. Ideally I'm looking to spend £200-£350 depending on whats available. In particular I would be interested in a Ninebot e+ or a Inmotion V5F. Ideally I'd like a Inmotion V8 but I don't think my current budget would stretch that far. I'm based in Bristol, but happy to look into postage if need be. Many thanks, Max
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Hi guys. I have a problem and hoped some of you might help me out... I have a NineBot One E+ with a 1rattwerkstatt battery upgrade that's been running faithfully for two years now without any promlem at all.Last week I gave the wheel an overhaul, cleaning it and removing dirt and I've not had occation to use it until a few days ago after that. The wheel runs just fine, but it won't charge. The powerbrick has a tiny led that glows red while it's charging, and green when fully charged or not plugged in. It now glows green constantly, and the wheel hasn't gained any power even after several hours. The charger I have does not have any bent pins in the plug (one of the first things I checked). I've borrowed another charger from a buddy with the same wheel and it had the same problem, so the fault is definitely with the wheel itself. I've opened up the wheel and checked the cables, making sure everything is thoroughly connected. I'm not tech savvy enough to know anything about resistors or mofets or whatnots, so I can't tell if there's anything visually wrong with them, and I don't have any equipment for measuring voltages and such. Any ideas?
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Selling a Set of Training Wheels for the Ninebot One E+ Brand New!! Will fit other One Models Including P, E, & C $65 Shipped to the Lower 48 PM me with any questions Thanks
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Hi folks, I recently outgrew my starter wheel, ninebot e+ and am moving up to the z10. Interested in selling or making a trade with someone new looking to pick up the hobby. All offers are considered. The wheel is in complete working order with all necessary accessories. The wheel has been plasti-dipped black but can be peeled off easily or re-dipped. I recommend doing this after you get the hang of things . This is me changing out the tire inner tube, the wheel is in full working order, and it is most importantly reliable and safe (i've never gotten hurt).
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Hi guys, I've just experienced my second shut off last week. I started the day full charged. Rode about 10miles (16km). Then I put the EUC on charge only for about 15min.(usually 99% of time I let it change completely). After that I went ridding for 1.5 miles (2.5km). I stopped for 30 min. Rode again for 1 mile(1.6km) when I passed over a small 2 inch(5cm) sidewalk, I went for another 3 feet(1m), I heard a bip and it shut off. The EUC just shut off no beeping on the ground. Luckily my speed was about 3-4mile/h (5-8km/h) when it happened. I turned the EUC back on and it worked, voltage was around 55. I still ride it, I don't feel any difference in behavior, it's running normal. But I don't feel save anymore. I will attach below my black box data the status highlighted in yellow shows the moment when the cut off occurred. I have had a motor replacement before at ~80 hours in. Since then I can see: ??(Controller) 218h 17m 21s 3 861 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ861 don't recall that something happened here ??(Controller) 386h 0m 39s 3 5506 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ5506 don't recall that something happened here ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 3 997 Hall1Òì³££¬Òì³£´ÎÊýΪ997 - this is where I experienced the shut off and lots of 17 code - which is an abnormal behavior of the motor but may be as a warning and doesn't trigger a shut off like 3s do ? "3" seems to be related with the Motor; What 861, 5506, 997 mean? Translated some of the last black box logs, the occurring frequency is quite often : ??(Controller) 472h 55m 44s 17 11620 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 45, and the abnormal condition is 6->4 ??(Controller) 482h 0m 0s 17 11841 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 4->1 ??(Controller) 482h 3m 18s 17 11796 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 1->4 ??(Controller) 482h 55m 19s 17 11875 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 6->3 ??(Controller) 485h 21m 53s 17 11825 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 46, and the abnormal condition is 3->1 ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 3 997 Hall1 exception, the number of exceptions is 997 ??(Controller) 497h 4m 24s 17 12128 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 6->0 ??(Controller) 498h 34m 22s 17 12050 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 1->2 ??(Controller) 505h 2m 5s 17 12065 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 2->1 ??(Controller) 519h 33m 6s 17 12068 Hall 1 signal is abnormal, the cumulative number of abnormalities is 47, and the abnormal condition is 2->4 Did anyone experienced this? Thanks everybody for reading this! Chris BlackData_2018-08-24-18-24-24_Fomart.csv
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TL;DR: Don't believe the range reporter, don't start a trip when the battery drops below 50%, and try not to push over 12 mph. Today, I decided to do a 4.5 mile ride on 50% battery. It was over flat road and the distance estimator said 9 miles, so I figure I was OK. It was smooth sailing for the first 3 miles. I ride pretty fast and my NB beeps at me to slow down, which I do, but after 3 miles the unit was down to about 25% battery and it I started getting a lot of beeps and tiltback way more extreme than the normal tiltback I get when I break 12mph. It got so bad at one point that I almost had to stop. I tried putting the speed limiter on, but it didn't really help. I basically had to limp home at about 3-6 mph. At home, the battery was around 10%. When I checked, the unit temp was 120F, which I guess is pretty hot. Ambient temp was 60F. I'm 6'2", and weigh ~230 lbs with all my gear and backpack, which is getting up there, so I think this is what I get by pushing the unit a too hard. So the big lesson is that the 9B range is probably half what is advertised for a person my size. -e
