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Found 3 results

  1. Recently I succeeded in converting a friend to the EUC religion! As a good preacher, I am helping him choosing the EUC and the gear Now we are looking at full face helmets and I am struggling to justify my decision of buying a TSG Pass... Well, the reason I bought it is because I read in one thread here many good things about it (concerning safety) AND I found it on sale during the last Black Friday (It is an outstanding helmet and I even forget I am wearing it!) My friend would like to know if he should go with a similar model (not on sale though) or one of the MTB/DH helmets also mentioned in the previous thread like the Leatt DBX 6.0 Carbon. I told him that, in my opinion, it is a trade-off between convenience (being able to just remove a piece of equipment + not having to buy goggles) and heat (as I tend to boil with this helmet in direct sunlight even in winter). Though his point is that the Leatt's shield will protect him from the rain and sun during the summer, plus during winter he could just put on a balaclava. He will mainly use the EUC (one of the new Inmotion V8F) for daily commuting and to go with me off-road once in a while on weekends. One important remark is that he has glasses, and I am not sure how would that play with goggles, although he's been snowboarding with them inside goggles with no issues... What would the helmet gurus of this forum recommend, DH/MTB or longboard/skateboard full helmet? PS: Any suggestion regarding goggles?
  2. Inspired by the full face helmet comparison between the Bell Super 3R and the Giro Switchblade, I almost bought the Switchblade. That was until I found a report from a downhill MTB rider in the UK who had a fall and a pretty bad face impact with a rock that caused the chin guard to separate from the helmet. That was my major concern about helmets with detachable chin guards. I don't see a reason why I would ever consider taking the chin guard off anyway but it leaves a systemic vulnerability to the helmet. So I went on trying to find something that was airy as the Bell Super 3R (I am riding in Southern Arizona and in the summer you need every bit of cooling you can get!) but had a solid chin guard and possibly an MTB downhill certification. And I found it. It's the Proframe from Fox Racing. At $250 in the same price range as the Switchblade and the Super 3R, features an integrated chin guard in a skeleton configuration that allows for lots of air to come through and the whole helmet is designed to funnel air through the skull cap and keep you cool. Oh, and it has MIPS. The size adjustments happen by replacing the liner pads in the cap and with 3 sizes of cheek pads. The strap locks with a glove-friendly magnet-assisted locking mechanism. Pretty cool and easy to use. I spent around 5 hours in the helmet on Saturday's ride and am really happy with it. The weight is so low that you hardly feel you are wearing a helmet (the shell is Polycarbonate) and the visibility is excellent. I had no issues with wind noises up to my KS14's max. speed of 30 km/h. Hearing was not impaired while wearing the helmet. I could easily hear everything around me and detect the direction of sounds as if I wasn't wearing the helmet. This thing gets a big thumbs-up from me!
  3. Hi folks, I was annoyed by running into over-voltage trouble everytime I start with a fully charged battery and have to run downhill. For some time now I used a modified charger with reduced end-voltage, but I wanted to solve the problem by its root. Together with electronics developer friends we created a circuitry that activites a load resistor, whenever a certain voltage level (67.3V) is exceeded. Such a circuitry is called break chopper. It helps breaking any kind of motor/generator drive. I installed high power LEDs (2*100W) into my KS16 as the load resistor and I am fairly satisfied with the function. I also made experiments with halogen lamps as the load resistor, what I show in the video too. Such lamps radiate away the largest part of the braking energy so it has not be spread by heat sinks. Besides the LEDs, in the second part of the first video I use 3*150W /24V halogen lamps as the load, but these seem a little oversized. In the second video I do the same track (140m descent) with 3*75W /24V lamps, what works as well as the 200W LED-load. I hope you enjoy the nerdy experiments and light show!
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