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Found 13 results

  1. First i would like to thank @Seba for giving me the idea and sharing his knowledge without which I would not have thought of this project. Check out his thread first: Decided not to go this route after the news of adjustable chargers going rogue and killing several 16x wheels with 100v++ despite being set to 84v. Felt more comfortable using my tested and proven GT16 chargers which are decently fast and never get hot. You can use any charger for this mod, just install the right connectors for your adapter/meter. For those who might attempt this: Mains voltage is dangerous, even more so when combined with mislabelled chinese components. My GT16 pinouts were completely reversed despite what the sticker read, and the Lenovo plug was wired backwards from what is used on the KS-16x. CHECK ALL POLARITIES WITH A MULTIMETER! Do not recommend the first half of this project for the inexperienced DIYers. It's much more worth it safety wise to just buy a chargedoctor off ebay or a ready-made meter/adapter from a trustworthy source. So much could have gone wrong Parts used: Lenovo male cable for 16x https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/SGpXCDJXH GX16-3 female socket for GT16 chargers https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/dz4VdU8Rt Coulometer https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qh7dWjVcX GT16 Charger (or whatever you like) This setup gives me 3 options: 5.5a fast charge, 84v, 100% 2.7a slow charge, 82v, 90% 2.7a slow charge, 84v, 100% I forgot to document the assembly of my coulometer as the mislabelled markings were pissing me off and giving me a headache. The next part onwards is relatively safe and easy to attempt. The GT16 charger has only one tamper-resistant triangle screw hidden under a sticker Trimpot was hidden under a glob of silicone probably to prevent tampering as well. Peel it off carefully. The dial is fragile and can be yanked off easily. Keep a close eye on the meter and turn very slowly and gently until you reach your intended voltage. My charger only had one trimpot which makes things simpler. However, note that many chargers have 3 according to Seba. Check his thread to make sure you do not adjust the wrong one if you have one of those. 82.5v: close enough for me. Put everything back together and its done! Now I can charge to 90% - my daily use option, or 100% for balancing once a month, or fast charge at 5.5A which is always nice to have when in a hurry.
  2. Please find below details of the power supply mod for Ninebot 10 to allow to use Charge Doctor - great tool to keep Your battery healthy.. I have over 5500 km on my Kingsong KS16S, charging it every day to 92%, and once a week to 100% - I see no decrease in range, batteries are still OK. (percentage can vary on different wheels, what is important to stop the charging when current starts to drop to save the cells from slow final phase of charging) Charge doctor also allow to charge with 2 chargers at once - so this solves the "fast charging" issue in very universal way as wheel can be charged with original chargers - one for regular charging and two pieces if fast charging is required. Just purchase additional charger (The charging plug to to Z is the same for the mini plus, it’s proprietary to Segway-Ninebot) I haven't tested the real charging time of 995Wh Z10 yet, but it seems to be painfully slow - comments welcomed... I had seen some news that Ninebot may release fast 4A charger, so probably Z10 can be charged with two chargers with no issues, but this is unconfirmed information. Please do not blame me in case of any issues, lost warranty, fire, earthquake and similar events. Mod is "as is" no warranty in any way. Most likely cutting the cable in the power supply will also be treated as the loss of warranty, so please do not attempt such mods if You are not aware of consequences, also - in case of the mod - + is RED !
  3. I bought a charge doctor for my kingsong ks16s, with a three pin plug at each end. I would like an adaptor so that the charge doctor can be used with gotway msuper x ( 4 pin plug ). Any idea where I can get one ( actually two, one at each end, I suppose ? ) without having to solder anything?
  4. So, I know what the Charge Doctor can be used for but I have no idea how to program it. It has one button !! I read this: http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2016/11/12/autocut-adjustment/ from the maker's website, but I'm no closer to knowing how to program the 80% (or whatever) cut off for battery preservation. I bought the V2 with two inputs, as I have 2 chargers, fyi.
  5. My son has a Solowheel Glide 3, purchased a few months ago. I'm looking at http://hobby16.neowp.fr/buy/ The charge doctor site indicates a GX12-3 connector for Glide 3, but my son's wheel has a 4-pin connector. I'm not sure if it's GX12-4 or GX16-4 (or something else?), and can't measure it. I'm thinking that this looks like a GX12-4. Does anyone know for sure? Here are the pics...
  6. I have made short movie with basic functionality of CHARGE DOCTOR - very clever device which allows to control the battery charging process well. Increase Your KS16S unicycle battery life 6 times or more! Charge the wheel twice as quickly (if You have second charger)! Monitor the charging process! Li-Ion cells used in the unicycles can withstand many more charging cycles if operated between 30% and 90% of their capacity - this means that You can charge them even 3000 times instead of 500 times. Please read full manual on the producer page for full details, this is basic information only. Please subscribe to my channel. I strongly advise to buy and use the charge doctor - please get it from the producer - web page: http://hobby16.neowp.fr/buy/
  7. Good evening all, I just received my charge doctor v2 in the mail yesterday. The instructions were somewhat confusing so I did what I thought was correct. Instead of changing the threshold where it was supposed to be changed I ended up going into calibration mode and changing the settings there. So basically I held the button for more than 5 seconds while turning the unit on. I changed the UP V and DOWN V to where I wanted it to cut off. Should have changed this under threshold instead. Basically all I need to know is what the settings are from the factory so I can revert it and get it working properly. If someone has one and can check in the calibration mode and let me know what to change the UP V and DOWN V to it would be much appreciated. I currently have a little more than a ten volt discrepancy between what the charge doctor says and what my intelligent fast charger reads. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  8. After a ton of searching and reading I've concluded that battery capacity, longevity, and what we can do to preserve them has been the topic of many conversation on this forum. It is understandable too. After all the ability of the battery to safely deliver in an array of circumstances and environmental conditions makes the difference between a safe ride and a face-plant. Replacement power packs also seem to cost about the same as half of a new wheel! Ouch! I've been concentrating on what I can do to preserve the capacity of the battery in my newly ordered Inmotion V8. For the type of wheel the V8 has a relatively low capacity and so a restricted range compared to say the KS 16S but wins in the area of waistline and weight. I'm loath to start another thread when there are so many already but I have a few questions that appear to have, so far, been unanswered. Conventional wisdom on the forum derived through discussion and a heavy reliance on the information from Battery University (batteryuniversity.com hereafter referred to as BU) is that if you can get away with only charging to 80% and performing 50% discharge you will return you the best bang for your battery buck with regards to increasing the number of charge cycles by 4 or 5 times. BU reports that EV's such as the Nissan Leaf and Tesla models do this by charging to 80% capacity for a "full tank" and considering 30% to be an "empty tank". This maximizes charge cycles of the hugely expensive batteries and then by dynamically increasing this usage range beyond the initial 50% limit as the battery ages the vehicle is able maintain mileage specs over a number of years. BU considers a full charge discharge cycle to take a single cell's voltage from 3.0V (empty) to 4.2V(full). So following their suggestion of say an 80% capacity charge and only 50% usage to 30% capacity suggests a charged cell voltage of 3.96V and a discharged cell voltage as 3.36V. This is where I want help. The thing is, in the interest of safety I understand most EUC manufacturers artificially increase the "empty" voltage of a cell above 3.0V. From information I read on this forum from Jason Inmotion's cutoff voltage is 68V (over a 20 series 2 parallel setup) giving an empty cell voltage of 3.4V. With this in mind, ignoring any safety aspects of potential for restricted current delivery at low voltages, to achieve the best balance of capacity and longevity from my V8 battery I should charge to 80% (according to a 3rd party too such as the Charge Doctor, not the V8's battery indicator) cell capacity (3.96V) and then discharge until the V8 considers the tank dry (actual 3.4V) which in reality BU would consider still to be 33% actual cell capacity. Thus I consumed only 47% capacity. Do you agree with this conclusion? If I were to charge to 80% and discharge to 30% following the Inmotion battery indicator only for both levels then I'm guessing I'd actually be charging to 4.04V (80% of the 3.4V to 4.2V range, 86% of actual 3.0 to 4.2V cell range) and discharging to 3.64V (30% of the 3.4V to 4.2V range, 53% of actual 3.0 to 4.2V cell range) meaning I actually only get to use 33% of the real battery capacity vs the 50% I think I'm using. In another post on the forum in Jason's initial review of the V8 prototype he says that the V8 remained responsive and performed well right down to empty. So, if Inmotion keeps so much power in reserve and the wheel appears solid even at lower voltages I'm thinking of doing the 80% charge via Charge Doctor and drain to near flat as my usual routine to hit that balance of range and longevity (unless it is cold, then I’ll leave extra in the tank). What are your thoughts, first on my initial battery conclusions and then on my consideration to use the battery down to Inmotion’s definition of empty? I appreciate your input. P.S. If we can keep the discussion relatively layman that would be awesome!
  9. Has anyone had trouble with their Charge Doctor not turning itself off automatically (auto-cut)? It seems like mine is never shutting off and instead just reducing the amount of amps to an extremely small number (like .05). I've read on other threads that the batteries charge quickly up to a certain point and then slow down, but I've even let it go overnight but it's still not turning itself off. Maybe it's time for a reset?
  10. The Charge Doctor with double input for IPS (Holtz, Zero...) is available. You can order it on the "Buy" page of my blog : http://hobby16.neowp.fr/buy/ I've also had questions about the IPS chargers, so I have posted a how-to mod a generic charger to make a customized charger with the right connector : http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2016/11/20/charger-customization/ The how-to is posted below as a backup : Charger customization Most e-wheels have settled for the GX16-3 connector. Some though use a different format and the corresponding charger may be difficult to find and are mostly more expensive. A customized charger with the right connector can be made from a generic 2A charger with the wiring instructions below. Various ewheel connectors, size and pin comparison Most frequently found connectors e-Wheel Socket Wiring Voltage Topo* Remark Most e-wheels GX16-3 1: V+ ; 3: 0V 67.2V 16S connector for Solowheel, Airwheel, Gotway, Firewheel, King Song… Gotway MSuper3 84V/1600Wh GX16-4 1: V+ ; 2: 0V 84V 20S other MSuper3 with battery <1600Wh have GX16-3 connectors IPS (Holtz, Zero…) GX16-4 2: V+ ; 4: 0V 67.2V 16S warning, same connector as above but different wiring! InMotion V8 ** GX12-3 1: V+ ; 2: 0V 84V 20S same connector & wiring as hoverboards InMotion V3,V5 Lenovo Int:V+ ; Ext: 0V 84V 20S Lenovo square socket, originally for Lenovo laptop power supply Ninebot One*** Lemo 63V 15S see photo for wiring*** Ninebot Minipro, Xiaomi ** GX12-4 1: V+ ; 4: 0V 63V 15S *16S = 16 LiIon cells connected in series, total voltage calculated using battery full value = 4.2V/cell ** important, the numbering order on GX16-3 connectors is totally different from the GX12-3 : from left to right 3-2-1 for GX16-3 compared to 1-3-2 for GX12-3 !!! Likewise for GX12-4 and GX16-4 GX12 and GX16 plugs, note the difference in pin numbering *** Wiring for Lemo on NinebotOne Beware of the charger For this mod, I recommand using the fanless 2A generic chargers. Even if they tend naturally to warm much more than a (noisy) charger with integrated fan, they have many great features: availability for various voltages, noiseless, compact and transportable… They allow fast charging at 4A by a parallel connection with the original charger using a Duo Charge Doctor (or even at 6A with the Triplex CD). Warning though, some 1.5A chargers are sold as 2A chargers. They have a smaller housing and are very hot when charging, thus unreliable in the long term. When buying it online, the vendor never details the housing dimensions and count on the buyers not to check the actual current to sell it. Without stated dimensions, the difference can still be made looking at the distance between the rectangle and the grooves (see arrows on the picture). Any vendor with such dubious practices should be avoided anyway. So don’t be misled, buy only the 2A charger with the bigger housing. Chargers 2A and 1.5A, size comparison
  11. I bought my KS16 from wheelgo.com which states the battery they deliver is 840 Wh. That is also confirmed by a sticker on the pedal. However, my charge measure it to about 560 Wh after charging. That's quite a bit under 840. How can I confirm the battery is really 840 Wh?
  12. I get use to control my 9B1 battery level with the famous "HOBBY CHARGE DOCTOR" (Many thanks to Hobby for this wonder ) and I would like to do the same with my 9B mini (Xiaomi version). As 9B mini's load jack is different from 9B1's lemo jack (still 4 pins but not the same shape & system. I imagine the plug of mini pro version is the same as Xiaomi version), I have to add lemo jack on 9B mini charger. I choose to cut wire close to the charging plug in order to weld a LEMO female plug (picture 1). And on the wire I weld a LEMO male plug (picture 2). It's always the same polarity (as 9B1's one) with pin 1 for the + and pin 2 for the -. Finally, I have an adapter that can load directly my 9B mini (picture 3) or by inserting Charge Doctor (picture 4). Now I can check the battery status of my 9B mini (pictures 5 & 6) and I can also use my 9B1 charger to load (faster than 9B mini charger). 9B mini charger is "only" a 70W that give 1,1A max. Compare to 9B1 charger that is a 120W that give 2 A, I can reduce loading time by half.
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