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EUC

Found 5 results

  1. I have come across an issue with capacitors on an MSX board. I wont go into any detail right now but is there anyone who can enlighten me on exactly what they do? I am of the understanding that they store energy to 'smooth out' demanding power requirements because a direct feed from the batteries wouldnt be man enough, but this seems odd to me, given the sheer size and capability of the packs we use these days, plus what I feel are relatively small caps. Do they really hold enough energy for this purpose? Am I barking up a totally wrong tree? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
  2. I know a few who have added big caps, and they claim the difference is noticeable. But if the wheel isn't dipping/cutting out I don't see how it's possible to tell the difference. Personally, if I had the spare space, I would just look to fill it with more cells to get additional range/headroom/reduce sag. But thats just me. The Sherman doesn't have any spare room so I never looked any further at it
  3. Hi. I'm attempting to repair my brother's KS16s after it died on him in the field doing some steep trails. He got it working again after a couple days wait, but had some red LED patterns (a fault code, I assume). It only worked in Beginner mode AND it only goes a fee feet before powering off while riding (yikes!). I took it to my workbench and examined the motherboard and found no damage or burns anywhere except the positive leg of the larger capacitor. The leg was disconnected and showed a little burn residue. The capacitor itself didn't appear 'swollen' or blown so I assumed it was still good. I re-soldered the leg (and may have accidentally shorted it in the process) and turned it back on and the thing went from 0 to 25mph in under a second! It literally jumped up and did a somersault. https://photos.app.goo.gl/K1imWDH6Y2cRdnin9 Assuming the capacitor may be the culprit, I ordered a new one on eBay (upgrading from 80v to 100v). Misjuding the polarity of the capacitor (don't ask... I know now), I temporarily connected the new capacitor with alligator clips (in reverse) to test and unsurprisingly when I connected the battery pack to the power supply harness, I arc'd that connection with a nice little short. Not knowing if the capacitor was damaged or not, after learning what I'd done, I corrected the polarity and reconnected everything. Turned on the EUC and it did the same somersault again. I've since ordered another capacitor but haven't installed yet. Do any of you have any thoughts on this? Does it sound like a capacitor issue or is this a classic symptom of something else? Alan
  4. Hey folks! I just burned the second MOSFET of my Z10. But that time - look: All three capacitors (that is what I think they are) exploded. It happened just during a drive, no acceleration, only rolling out, at the 5th km of this trip. The last 2h before the drive the wheel laid in the cold (1°C / 34 °F). Any idea why that could happen?
  5. Important part first: Here's how I fit replacement power filter capacitors in a KS-14C. It solves the problem of constantly bending the leads when you have to access the batteries, and shortens the distance between the second capacitor and the circuit board, which increases its ability to do its job. I came into possession of a faulty KS-14C from electricunicyclereview's closing, along with a new control board and batteries for it. It would turn on and run, but had very low battery and wouldn't accept a charge. When I opened it up I saw that the power filter capacitors were blown. I put the new circuit board in, and it would boot up but not balance or light up the battery indicator. It probably just needs to be configured for the first time, but I figured that since the original board was functional and just needed new capacitors, I'd try to fix it. I realized the replacements I'd gotten were slightly skinnier, enough to fit in the circuit board compartment lying flat. I mounted them as such, put everything back together, and it works! I also replaced the battery with 2 packs, and discovered it had a few bad cells after tearing it apart. The rest are good, so they'll be useful for other EUC-related projects. In researching the repair, I discovered that the capacitors are less effective the further away they are from the MOSFETS (in terms of electrical path) It has to do with impedance and smoothing the voltage ripple - I suspect the blown capacitors contributed to damaging the battery pack, perhaps being blown during an over-voltage downhill surge that then killed a few cells without the capacitors to smooth the spikes. I also learned that the wires between the batteries and an ESC should be as short as possible, to reduce impedance (which I understand to be a sort of "lag" between the voltage dropping and the batteries providing the amps to restore it, which the capacitors are there to fill in for) SO, it follows that shortening the battery wires as much as possible and installing larger power filter capacitors would be an overall "upgrade" to unicycle electronics, their robustness and its ability to handle bumps / uneven terrain without as much pedal dip, which is better for the unicycle and the rider. Thoughts? Some designs have up to 6-8" of wire that could be removed, and according to this forum post, that would be worth doing.
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