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I'm posting here because I would love some thoughts from the community to help strengthen my relationship with these wheels. After putting over 4K miles on my Ninebot Z10 and loving it, I purchased an S18 in hopes of not face planting as often when hitting these huge potholes in Seattle. Shortly after falling in love with the S18, I send the thing into an accident by over-accelerating and inducing a strong pedal dip. This destroyed the trolley handle and ripped me to shreds. Diagnostics showed the unit was working fine after this. After a week of bandages I hopped back on to test if it was working. It appeared to drive fine and then suddenly locked up without warning and sent me into a crash at about 15mph. It was a brick afterwards. Huge props to Rev Rides for taking my wheel in, examining the issue and replacing the board with KS's latest one. It turns out the first accident damaged a capacitor on the board which caused it to fry later when I was testing the unit again. Now (again huge thanks to Rev Rides) I have a beautiful working fixed wheel and I am scared to death to use it. I would love some thoughts on these units so that I can stop worrying about it. Is there any chance something like a lock-up could happen again? Does anyone know if these boards typically have backup or redundant circuits that kick in if something fries? Should I be worrying about any water getting to the main board while riding in Seattle? I'd love to stay safe and sane as I'm tired of nursing injuries and replacing clothing. Thanks.

Hey all, I'm trying to determine if this is an issue with the latest firmware update, a problem with the control board, or another issue entirely. Most recently I have noticed that my Z10's center of balance is making more drastic changes at low speeds. When I start the unit up and begin making small movements, I can feel the sensor reset slightly and at times have had the footplate tilt back and forward a significant amount before slowly resetting. This isn't as extreme as the issue linked in the post below, but is significantly different than when I got the unit. Again it hasn't affected me too much at higher speeds. Is it possible for the control board to slowly wear out?

Hello, first of all, thank you for the forum. Recently my ninebot segway es1 stopped working, it is necessary to change the "motherboard". The one inside the tube. I can not send it to repair the official service. I have looked at this piece online, I have found it relatively cheap. But I read that if I change the motherboard myself, I will get error 35 and I will not be able to activate it. Somebody could help me ? Thank https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/YHVNzhI

Hey Everyone, I'm replacing my old "Gotway Msuper3/3s 3/3/17" stamped board in my Monster with a replacement Jason sent that's stamped "Gotway Monster 5/19/17". As I understand it, both wheels use the same physical board only they are flashed with different firmware. Background: A month ago, after a minor drop, the wheel started making a clunking sound (very similar to Sven's) if I accelerated or braked/broke too fast. Opened it up and all wiring and connectors appeared fine. Axle nuts are tight. Jason suggested a new board and here I am. After reading of the updates Gotway has employed on their new boards, I was concerned the connectors might not agree and a simple swap wouldn't work. (Just freeing all the siliconed connectors carefully is a job in itself) Turns out my gut was right. The new board has big 5 or 5.5mm female bullet connectors (w/no black plastic covers - unlike the existing). The old board has 4 or 4.5mm female ends. ?? I contacted Jason and he's consulting Gotway. I'd like to keep the larger connectors but without the black plastic cover on these, it would seem I have to cut them off and put the boots on before crimping on new ones. I think theres a Gotway video showing how this goes. Can't remember if soldering was involved. Besides aquiring all these parts, there are a few other obstacles. I'm not that comfortable soldering, there might be a special tool required to crimp these bullets, and the motor wires are already short. If someone has experience with this, I would greatly appreciate the insight. Thanks!

Hi, I burned controller board on my MCM4. So, I am looking for some .. If you have some tips(in EU is better for me), I will buy one. Thank you

Does anyone know where i can get control board for ips i130+ electric unicycle? I tried 3 different sites and they saying no

Success! (Almost) finally for my little upgrade project. First a quick recap. I had a chinese direct generic 550watt EUC with usual 18km/hr top speed, standard pedal rising and annoying beeps.. but a good performer. Been the hacking geek and not satisfied with the speed I ordered a 30 km/h microworks built mcm control board (30BS), with bluetooth. It looked quite different from my original board (which had no bluetooth). Sadly it wouldnt ride, after many combos of hall sensors and power leads I gave up and went back to my original board, but then while installing some LED lights I shorted out the board and was left with no ride! So then my choice was to buy one of the generic 18km/h boards available (18B) or try the 24 km/h microworks board that looked almost identical to my old board. I decided for the price ($50 NZD incl shipping) it was worth the gamble for higher top speed. So it arrived today just one week later, in a very small cardboard box with almost no packaging, and i hooked it up using standard red yellow green blue black for hall sensors and yellow green blue for the power wires.. no go.. violent acceleration and calibration wouldnt engage using the two calibration wires. Big sigh and decided to keep trying combinations, did all hall sensor combos (6) and then decided to swap green and blue wires on power leads and hall sensors.. bingo! These seem to be the two wires that are most commonly swapped in different manufacturers. this time however i also needed to swap the hall sensors green and blue also. With the 30BS controller it was swap green and blue power and leave hall sensors as per spec. So even with different controllers from the same manufacturer then wiring is different, even though they send you the same wiring manual for each and tell you that the 24B and the 18B model wiring is the same.. um.. its not! Ok so whats strange so far is that the calibration doesnt work. I cant get it to calibrate as per manual. IE the wheel doesnt spin and then give a long beep to confirm successful calibration. It just pauses and then beeps saying calibration didnt happen. But it rides quite well so far. Odd thing is that, well its night time now and I didnt have a bike helmet handy so I wasnt willing to push it too fast, so tomorrow I will have a ride in daylight with helmet on and phone gps to test the speed. Because in my test ride I wasnt able to get the pedal to rise and I seemed to be going about 20km/h, and wasnt prepared to risk any faster without knowing what was going to happen, because it seems that when I hit approx 20km/h it tilted slightly forwards rather than backwards! this was quite disconcerting! maybe im imagining it because im used to obvious tilt back from my old controller or maybe it is not behaving correctly.. but im happy that its ridable and definitely way faster than original model.. im just curious to see if there is any top speed because holding the wheel off the ground and tilting it forward it accelerates, starts beeping at a certain angle but never cuts out no matter how far i lean forward.. this is weird also. So sorry this is so long, I just figured Id save having to answer a whole bunch of questions and just give as much detail as possible. If I can get it to calibrate i`ll feel a lot safer about testing its top speed. But im pretty excited to have it running this well with tons of torque! In the pics is original blown controller on the right and new one on the left. They look identical more or less. Interestingly this controller is sold for a 16 inch wheel but my wheel is 14 inch. Guys on russian forum said thats not a problem and they have used 16 inch controllers on 14 inch wheels. Im wondering if I should keep trying hall sensor and power cable combinations in case I still dont actually have the correct configuration for the controller to engage calibration? Other pic is the 30BS board that didnt work.

Hi everyone. I have a generic 500w 18km/h EUC. I recently bought a 30 km/h control board to see if I could upgrade the wheel to give it a higher top speed. Its almost worked. I found the correct sequence for the hall sensors and all leads are connected and new board is installed vertically as instructed. Only problem is the calibration. This board has bluetooth and no calibration points on the board. Calibration is done in the app, but the app is in chinese and i cant read it. I found a partial translation but even that is confusing as I still havnt been given clear instructions on how and when to press the calibrate buttons. It appears to be stable at vertical. I can lean it forward or back and it moves in that direction and ive even got on and rode a short distance. Trouble is when riding the pedals lean forward about 15 degrees and stay there while riding so i cant stand up straight. So its not really rideable as this lean is too close to the cut off angle. Heres some pics. And here is where I bought controller with instructions. http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/controller-for-electric-unicycle-with-bluetooth_60244443124.html?spm=a2700.7724838.35.1.fs4wjj My wheel is generic, supposedly 550w and I bought it from here: http://www.dhgate.com/product/wholesale-joyewheel-newest-item-electric/213373049.html#s2-23-7|4222809817 Any advise or help would be greatly appreciated! cheers jay