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EUC

Found 13 results

  1. Hello everyone. Some who live in warm countries have the problem that if the battery is heated to 45 degrees, then the battery stops charging until it is cooled to 40 degrees. And after the ride, you have to wait a long time to be able to charge the wheel. I changed the firmware and made that the battery can take a charge at temperatures up to 57 degrees (If the battery gets hotter, then you will need to wait until it cools down below 55 degrees). The original firmware version is version 1.1.6 (Many Russian users like this version, not version 1.1.7 or earlier). I also changed the version display to 1.2.6 so that officially the Ninebot application would not offer to update it. I have temporarily discontinued support for my app, but you can flash this firmware using this app "XiaoFlasher m365(Pro/1S/Pro2) - NineFlasher ES-G30". BMS_Zbms1_v1.2.6.zip BMS_Zbms2_v1.2.6.zip
  2. Hello, there are some rumors about V8/V8F/V8S not having balancing, also heard something about V10 not having it. That looks not plausible to me for V10. About V8 I heard some cases where the range dropped significantly and it was found the cells were not in balance. Mr Wrong Way warns people about it in his videos. So I would be glad if someone could solve this mystery. Is there someone who had teardown their V8 pack and inspected the BMS?
  3. Interesting, the new 1.1.7 BMS FW claims better/lesser vampire drain, but after leaving my Z10 unridden indoors for 1+ day (42 hours), I'm seeing what translates into .14V drop per day, roughly 1% per day.
  4. Hi, i have INMOTION R1EX but I don't have original battery, it is impossible to get it in my location I can't run INMOTION without original BMS, can someone help me, do anyone has schematic for BMS or Mainboard, any information would be helpful Thanks
  5. I have an original Ninebot Mini. After the firmware update to v1.4.1, the battery management system got corrupted and does not display anything. It shows v0.0.0 I downgraded my Ninbot app APK to 3.5.1, and it prompts out firmware update available to 1.3.1 but when l start updating, it fails because the BMS can't update as it timeout. V0.0.0 -> v.1.1.3. Anyone knows how to fix this? It's still the original battery, just that it's locked to 10kmh, has a red led light at the back and is very uncomfortable to ride.
  6. Hi, does anyone knows what specs are the standard bms for the 20s from gotway? I'm looking specifically at the max current rating that I need for an extra battery pack. thank you
  7. Hey everyone I've been a lurker for a long time around this website picking up what i can for my new love in the EUCs and i picked up a Zipwheel 16" as my first wheel back last year and have used it for about 5 miles daily up until last month when i was involved in a RTC with a speeding motorist i managed to get out the way but i was unable to get the wheel out in time and it was launched 15ft up the road cracking the case open and throwing the battery. I have since tested the wheel and it appears both the motor and the controller by some miracle survived undamaged as the case seems to have withstood the impact although is now in a sorry state and needs replacing, however the battery although worked for the tests didn't seem to fair as well its landing appears to have damaged something on the BMS PCB (Picture) and being that i don't know what its for i haven't dared to try and charge it for my lack of knowledge in batteries and things i've read about them exploding or catching fire and seeing i have my baby girl in the house wouldn't risk it without seeking advice from someone who knows these things. I have since been without my wheel i have ordered a new battery but i would like to either repair the PCB in this battery or replace it as all the cells appear to be completely undamaged. This being the case i searched online for the same PCB so i could just swap them out but have have no luck in finding the board they used even seeing the model number on the front of it (A4-FL16s-DLC) didn't help me to source a replacement i have looked on aliexpress to see if i could find a different board to replace it with but i have no idea which ones would be suitable as i know they have ones for E-Bikes that would be dangerous on the unicycle, unexpected cutoffs and such and was wondering if any of you here may have had something similar or are more techy then myself who may be able to help me in sourcing a cost effective replacement board as i would hate to see these cells wasted Thank you all in advance
  8. Hoping someone might be able to chime in on what Ninebot/Segway uses for the BMS. I have a es1 with the dual battery setup however I would like to add extra power for range. via craigslist i bought two broken es1 and the battery packs look fine, voltage was putting out 35 on both packs however the 4pin which i thought was balancing leads dont put out anything on the multi-meter. Off the top of my head I was thinking just pop them in parallel and somehow disable regen but... since I dont know the BMS or how to tap into it i held off. open to ideas =) thanks!
  9. Hi! Before updating my Z10 to BMS v1.1.7, I want to be sure there're no problems. Never touch a running system! Has anyone updated to BMS v1.1.7 so far? Any differences, do you recommend to update? I'm aware of the following topic, but perhaps it's another release? The new version is available since today. Thank you very much!
  10. Hello, I have recently get a hoverboard for free. The problem is there is no low battery indicator instead when batery is low the board just goes off by bms. I have read about shunt the bms and changing battery but is there something else that i can do it is not problem when board goes of if there is some warning before. Is there some way to adjust batery low warning ? Thank you
  11. V5f doesn't charge or turn on. With shell removed and tested, battery indicates zero voltage (72v original, 84v charger). On charger connect, registers 24v for 5 seconds, then drops back to zero. Battery, bms, charger or sleep problem? https://youtu.be/JK-phwb74-4 Another Li-po 48V scooter battery registers 24v, when lamp connected flickers on/off at maybe 10 blocks/second. Problem/solution?
  12. Now it's personal. This is the master list of micro unicycle brands, categorized by safe electrical behavior. This is the thread to read if you want to buy a uni that "doesn't actively try to kill you" (@esaj). Problem One: BMS shutdown Most popular low-priced generic style brands, and many other popular brands of the last generation, are made with an electric bicycle style battery management system (BMS). This part can try to protect the battery and shut down instead of protecting the rider, even in the best conditions. This means, the unit stops working unexpectedly. This WILL happen one day if you have a uni with this design, because as the battery ages the likelihood of this phenomenon occurring increases. It is possible to modify the badly designed BMS using the "shunt mod." To be absolutely clear, a modified BMS is not the same as having a unicycle that was designed correctly from the start. Examples include Airwheel, Firewheel, TG, Rockwheel, early Gotway designs, many other brand names, and most generic imported models. Even Ninebot has a battery management system with unknown variations. Problem Two: Main board shutdown As the battery gets lower, the voltage decreases. With lower voltage, a higher current is needed to produce the same power to the motor as with higher voltage. This causes heat, and if it gets too hot, the unicycle will shut down. This problem is solved in units with safe low-battery behavior, for example Ninebot has a slow operation on low battery. Speed can also cause main board shutdown. Most brands tilt back and beep to tell you to stop going faster, and some talk to you. Some unicycles will just go faster and faster until they turn off because the motor can't take it anymore. Gotway, Firewheel, and Rockwheel are examples that will experience a speed-cliff type mainboard shutdown ie designed to kill. The goal: An electric unicycle must NEVER, EVER, EVER turn itself off unexpectedly. Ever. This phenomenon must be designed out of the equation. Manufacturer established solutions: Solution one (BMS Shutdown): Better BMS design. The battery management system has no way to conduct shutdown. Low battery tiltback / slow down. When the battery is low, instead of allowing normal riding, the unit slows down or tilts back to make it difficult to ride. Solution two (Mainboard Shutdown): Better main board behavior. Locking low battery - The unicycle should warn the rider of a low battery extra early, and slow to a stop entirely when riding is unsafe. The uni will be non-functional while still partially charged, and will not be ridable until it is charged again. This is called locking low battery behavior, and both Ninebot and King Song have behaviors close enough to this to solve the problem. High Speed tiltback - Almost every brand of unicycle avoids high speed shutdown by tilting back at high speed, so that the user can't push the uni past its limit. Every brand except Gotway, Firewheel, and Rockwheel and a few others are safe in this way. The high-speed warnings, however, must be obvious enough to truly protect the rider from pushing too hard. Solution three (batteries being sold are too small) This is on you! Buy the biggest battery you can afford. If you're going high speed, don't settle for 340wh or less. Look for something 600wh or above. And leave some wiggle room at the end of your battery no matter what; don't use the full range. Incomplete list of brands Very Dangerous: TG / OEM models of the same design - All models have both problems. F-wheel - BMS shutdown, maybe mainboard too. Suggested "buy to find out quality." SML / OEM models of the same design - All models have both problems. Airwheel - All models have both problems. Firewheel - All models have both problems. Firstwheel - All models have both problems. Rockwheel - All models have both problems. Fosjoas - All models have both problems. Suoku - All models have both problems. Huanxi - BMS is unconfirmed as safe, but has safe low battery behavior. Less Dangerous: Gotway - Older versions have both problems. Newer versions just have problem 2. Inmotion - Could be safe. Awaiting answers from manufacturer. IPS - Problem #2 has been documented in the forums. Safest: King Song - All of the problems documented here are addressed in all known models. The safest brand available right now. Please submit arguments! Ninebot (early models may have bad BMS). Despite their size, it is difficult to get answers from them about this issue. The only brand that is documented to shut down due to overcharge going downhill. This occurs on full battery because of regenerative braking. Can people submit comments about other brands that do this? Solowheel - Probably safe; need more detail. Obviously this list is nowhere near complete. Any input or criticism of the thinking presented here is more than welcome! No one here can do this alone. As the trend setters, we need to to make sure that new people getting started with this technology, and in particular innocent bystanders, will all be as safe as possible. Conclusion: There are solutions to all of these problems, but most manufacturers aren't implementing them. If we don't solve this problem, electric unicycles WILL hurt people, not only riders but bystanders as well. ALL electric unicycles will eventually become demonized in the public image, and will likely be made illegal or heavily regulated in many locales. Thus, any trade off is not only worth it, but entirely necessary. Any manufacturers who won't comply with these safety requirements need to be publicly exposed and driven out of the market. We need to protect new riders from manufacturers who don't care about their safety. So, anyone know other brands with confirmed electrical characteristics that are definitely safe / unsafe with regards to unexpected shutdowns?
  13. Shutdowns generally end like this and are as painful as this looks. Notice how her feet are in space and can't push against anything to break the fall. If, like me, you ride slower than you can run, overleans and other mishaps can be recovered by stepping off but the physics is different in a shutdown and you can't just step off. It is like this. This guy demonstrates the technique for an unpowered dismount. From the moment of unbalance he is falling but he lifts his knee quickly enough to get his foot forward under his body and uses the forward momentum to lift him like a pole vaulter. He knows it's coming and the physics is not opposite to what he is expecting so a shutdown for you is more difficult than for him. My four ended in more pain than any other mishap. On many wheels battery protection has been prioritised over rider protection which can lead to a shutdown without warning. Wheels designed this way and fitted with low quality batteries can shut down at any time but even with good batteries they become dangerous as the batteries age. A rider is only likely to be aware of a rare and mysterious catastrophic failure on a wheel that was for a long time safe. Early battery replacement with good cells will avoid shutdowns or the battery can be modified. The graph below for an Airwheel X8 shows published battery data overlaid with testing data of an aging cell X (black), damaged cells X (grey) and a generic battery with different, damaged cells X (blue). The discharge rate for the X tests was 0.2 amps. The aging cells were still able to sustain a voltage above the tilt back/warning voltage long enough to warn a rider but the damaged cells went from above the warning voltage to below the shutdown voltage too quickly. The generic battery had a shutdown voltage higher than the warning voltage, making it unsuitable for this Airwheel X8 from new. A longer version of this summary is published elsewhere.
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