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  1. Hi, i have INMOTION R1EX but I don't have original battery, it is impossible to get it in my location I can't run INMOTION without original BMS, can someone help me, do anyone has schematic for BMS or Mainboard, any information would be helpful Thanks
  2. Hi, does anyone knows what specs are the standard bms for the 20s from gotway? I'm looking specifically at the max current rating that I need for an extra battery pack. thank you
  3. Interesting, the new 1.1.7 BMS FW claims better/lesser vampire drain, but after leaving my Z10 unridden indoors for 1+ day (42 hours), I'm seeing what translates into .14V drop per day, roughly 1% per day.
  4. Hey everyone I've been a lurker for a long time around this website picking up what i can for my new love in the EUCs and i picked up a Zipwheel 16" as my first wheel back last year and have used it for about 5 miles daily up until last month when i was involved in a RTC with a speeding motorist i managed to get out the way but i was unable to get the wheel out in time and it was launched 15ft up the road cracking the case open and throwing the battery. I have since tested the wheel and it appears both the motor and the controller by some miracle survived undamaged as the case seems to ha
  5. Hoping someone might be able to chime in on what Ninebot/Segway uses for the BMS. I have a es1 with the dual battery setup however I would like to add extra power for range. via craigslist i bought two broken es1 and the battery packs look fine, voltage was putting out 35 on both packs however the 4pin which i thought was balancing leads dont put out anything on the multi-meter. Off the top of my head I was thinking just pop them in parallel and somehow disable regen but... since I dont know the BMS or how to tap into it i held off. open to ideas =) thanks!
  6. Hi! Before updating my Z10 to BMS v1.1.7, I want to be sure there're no problems. Never touch a running system! Has anyone updated to BMS v1.1.7 so far? Any differences, do you recommend to update? I'm aware of the following topic, but perhaps it's another release? The new version is available since today. Thank you very much!
  7. Hello, I have recently get a hoverboard for free. The problem is there is no low battery indicator instead when batery is low the board just goes off by bms. I have read about shunt the bms and changing battery but is there something else that i can do it is not problem when board goes of if there is some warning before. Is there some way to adjust batery low warning ? Thank you
  8. EDIT 2018: This is a thing of the past now for "brand-name" wheels (including 2017 models, and even older), but you can still overpower/overlean the wheel when really pushing it, nothing to do with the BMS Most unicycles use bicycles' BMS which has a overdischarge cut-off circuit (Q1) to prevent the battery from discharging under the LiIon recommanded voltage. It's a feature usefull for off-the-shelf bicycles' batteries but for monocycles, it's 1) unecessary since the mainboard deals quite well with voltage warning 2) utterly, incredibly stupid since a cutoff by the BMS
  9. V5f doesn't charge or turn on. With shell removed and tested, battery indicates zero voltage (72v original, 84v charger). On charger connect, registers 24v for 5 seconds, then drops back to zero. Battery, bms, charger or sleep problem? https://youtu.be/JK-phwb74-4 Another Li-po 48V scooter battery registers 24v, when lamp connected flickers on/off at maybe 10 blocks/second. Problem/solution?
  10. Now it's personal. This is the master list of micro unicycle brands, categorized by safe electrical behavior. This is the thread to read if you want to buy a uni that "doesn't actively try to kill you" (@esaj). Problem One: BMS shutdown Most popular low-priced generic style brands, and many other popular brands of the last generation, are made with an electric bicycle style battery management system (BMS). This part can try to protect the battery and shut down instead of protecting the rider, even in the best conditions. This means, the unit stops working unexpectedly. This WILL happen one d
  11. Shutdowns generally end like this and are as painful as this looks. Notice how her feet are in space and can't push against anything to break the fall. If, like me, you ride slower than you can run, overleans and other mishaps can be recovered by stepping off but the physics is different in a shutdown and you can't just step off. It is like this. This guy demonstrates the technique for an unpowered dismount. From the moment of unbalance he is falling but he lifts his knee quickly enough to get his foot forward under his body and uses the forward momentum to lift him like a
  12. I have an original Ninebot Mini. After the firmware update to v1.4.1, the battery management system got corrupted and does not display anything. It shows v0.0.0 I downgraded my Ninbot app APK to 3.5.1, and it prompts out firmware update available to 1.3.1 but when l start updating, it fails because the BMS can't update as it timeout. V0.0.0 -> v.1.1.3. Anyone knows how to fix this? It's still the original battery, just that it's locked to 10kmh, has a red led light at the back and is very uncomfortable to ride.
  13. Hi! Im making my new battery for my EUC and I answer questions. Im following the steps of this page: http://infoelectricos.com/bateria-electric-unicycle/ This will be 16S and will have 180Wh Thank you
  14. Hello to everyone, i am new in euc and i have eightball zipwheel which i will sell very soon :-P Ok here is the question for someone who knows about battery upgrade, I ordered two of this BMS http://www.aliexpress.com/item/16S-15A-59-2V-li-ion-unicycle-BMS-PCM-battery-protection-board-bms-pcm-with-balancing/32414515852.html and i have a LOT batteries samsung ICR18650-30B. So my question is can i build (connect) 32 batteries on one of that BMS so i can have 2 x 32 battery pack? If it is possible how do i need to connect second line of batteries on one BMS and how can i
  15. Hi. I was in the process of rebuilding my 340wh Lhotz, adding a standard 180wh battery with its own BMS to have 520wh total. I accidentally shorted the charge wires with catastrophic result. Batterypack started to smoke, the plastic melted and the charge wires started to melt. Luckily the chargewires didnt melt completely before I managed to separate the short, if i hadn't I'm sure a batteryfire was imminent. So now to my question, doesn't all BMS have short protection on the charge wires? To me it's mental not to have. It's just as dangerous as not havin
  16. Hello my name is Samuel. I just got my first electric unicycle for Christmas and it was amazing. It came with the training wheels already on, so I eventually took it outside to ride it. I would get on the unicycle and lean forward, soon reaching max speed. The unicycle would gradually slow me back down to prevent from going too fast. It worked fine. However, and this is where I am a bit confused, when I took the training wheels off.. I would get on and begin to lean forward in order to increase my speed. Then BAM! The machine would just stop and I would almost fly into the pavement. I can go a
  17. So I was riding today, maybe 8mph at the time. Battery was around 50-55%. I hit a bump and um, involuntarily dismounted. Anyway, at first I thought I had underestimated the size of the bump, but when I tried to put the E+ upright, I noticed it was dead. I tried to restart it but no luck. I came home and plugged it, thinking it might be a BMS thing (which would also suck), but no. The bot turns on when it's plugged to the charger, but as soon as I pull the plug it turns off (see video). If I put any load, it also shuts off (probably because it's not receiving any current from the battery,
  18. I have had my generic electric unicycle for almost a year now. A few days ago while riding at the park I experience my first ever unexpected shutdown. Luckily I managed to prevent myself from falling, but I now don't trust the unit. The unit would not full power on for about 10 minutes. I would hit the power button, it would beep, and shutdown. I lifted the unicyle will powering it on to see if the wheel would speed up, but nothing. The battery was at around 60% power when the shutdown occurred. I would assume with was a BMS shutdown. Do any reliable vendors sell batteries without this sh
  19. @SirGeraint here a pic of the BMS board on the new battery packs. This may help as an aid. The old packs don't have the HV and the LV.
  20. There's been lots of discussion on injuries and wearing protection, especially as of late. Maybe it's BMS failure, maybe the wheel caught a rock, but it seems that faceplants are inevitable. Please add to the vote! Perhaps this could people decide on a riding speed they're comfortable with, and how much protection to wear. There's no right or wrong answer -- except the honest truth! (Your answers are anonymous.) Thanks for your help! Speaking of bailing off EUCs at high speed, on this thread, @csmyers caught his highly-skilled high speed bailout roll on video, @Gimlet suggests ridi
  21. I strongly agree with wearing protective clothing. Maybe falling off is unavoidable at times however reducing the chances of injury are easy. I have put together a range of protective clothing in cooperation with some Australian partners that I will ship from Australia. Australia has been a leader in crash protection for a long time, haha we needed it. For road/concrete surfaces you will completely kit yourself out for about USD 600.00 (dirt protective clothing is a little cheaper) (Helmet, gloves, boots, Kevlar pants, Kevlar jacket (even have a hoody that looks normal even
  22. I know the battery packs continue to charge for a 'little' while after the Charger LED turns green but should it continue for 3 hours after (and still going)? If not, what would cause it to do this? Also, do the small components (the 16 rows of transistors, resistors, etc) on the BMS normally get too hot to touch? If not, what would cause it to do this? Does GotWay use the same values for all of the components on the BMS for the 170Wh pack (16SP1) as they do on the 340Wh pack (16SP2)? Here's the results from the Charge Doctor: 9:37 66.7V 0.54A 0.0Wh 9:45
  23. Hello! Recently, I've bought a second-hand generic EUC. It runs nice, but it has a problem with the battery. When charging, the battery only charges continuously for about 5-10 minutes before starting to pulse on and off. It fully stops charging at about 20-30 minutes. When I turn it on, the battery indicator only shows 3 out of 4 bars, and after driving for about 20 meters, it goes back to 2 bars. The full range is around 800m - 1km before it starts beeping and is completely empty. Being somewhat of an electronics hobbyist, I opened the battery pack and measured the cell voltages after a comp
  24. Ive bought a generic BMS board from aliexpress and it arrived today in post. I have 32x 18650s to put together a kickass battery pack, but im looking for some diy instuctions or video of how to put it all together. Anyone know how its done. I have multimeter, solder and various parts needed. I know its a little naughty to double up but im thinking of using 2x 18650s in parallel for each of the 16 connections on the BMS to give me 32x 18650s in total to give around 340wh in total. Im guessing this could mean the double pairs might get off balance over time and reduce the overall full charge cap
  25. Hello! I want to ask for an advice here. It started when I bought an electric wheel. it worked for some time. But some time later I noticed - it can not be charged anymore. Simply it does not sink current from the charger. I have a power meter and I can determine this for sure. I double checked connections- nothing... I measured a voltage at the charger`s output and it was correct (the same as in the specs - 67.2 volts). So I suppose, charger is not broken. I opened housing and removed a battery. I discovered that some batteries were disbalanced in their voltages - showed around zero volts.
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