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Found 25 results

  1. Hi, does anyone knows what specs are the standard bms for the 20s from gotway? I'm looking specifically at the max current rating that I need for an extra battery pack. thank you
  2. Interesting, the new 1.1.7 BMS FW claims better/lesser vampire drain, but after leaving my Z10 unridden indoors for 1+ day (42 hours), I'm seeing what translates into .14V drop per day, roughly 1% per day.
  3. Hey everyone I've been a lurker for a long time around this website picking up what i can for my new love in the EUCs and i picked up a Zipwheel 16" as my first wheel back last year and have used it for about 5 miles daily up until last month when i was involved in a RTC with a speeding motorist i managed to get out the way but i was unable to get the wheel out in time and it was launched 15ft up the road cracking the case open and throwing the battery. I have since tested the wheel and it appears both the motor and the controller by some miracle survived undamaged as the case seems to have withstood the impact although is now in a sorry state and needs replacing, however the battery although worked for the tests didn't seem to fair as well its landing appears to have damaged something on the BMS PCB (Picture) and being that i don't know what its for i haven't dared to try and charge it for my lack of knowledge in batteries and things i've read about them exploding or catching fire and seeing i have my baby girl in the house wouldn't risk it without seeking advice from someone who knows these things. I have since been without my wheel i have ordered a new battery but i would like to either repair the PCB in this battery or replace it as all the cells appear to be completely undamaged. This being the case i searched online for the same PCB so i could just swap them out but have have no luck in finding the board they used even seeing the model number on the front of it (A4-FL16s-DLC) didn't help me to source a replacement i have looked on aliexpress to see if i could find a different board to replace it with but i have no idea which ones would be suitable as i know they have ones for E-Bikes that would be dangerous on the unicycle, unexpected cutoffs and such and was wondering if any of you here may have had something similar or are more techy then myself who may be able to help me in sourcing a cost effective replacement board as i would hate to see these cells wasted Thank you all in advance
  4. Hoping someone might be able to chime in on what Ninebot/Segway uses for the BMS. I have a es1 with the dual battery setup however I would like to add extra power for range. via craigslist i bought two broken es1 and the battery packs look fine, voltage was putting out 35 on both packs however the 4pin which i thought was balancing leads dont put out anything on the multi-meter. Off the top of my head I was thinking just pop them in parallel and somehow disable regen but... since I dont know the BMS or how to tap into it i held off. open to ideas =) thanks!
  5. Hi! Before updating my Z10 to BMS v1.1.7, I want to be sure there're no problems. Never touch a running system! Has anyone updated to BMS v1.1.7 so far? Any differences, do you recommend to update? I'm aware of the following topic, but perhaps it's another release? The new version is available since today. Thank you very much!
  6. Hello, I have recently get a hoverboard for free. The problem is there is no low battery indicator instead when batery is low the board just goes off by bms. I have read about shunt the bms and changing battery but is there something else that i can do it is not problem when board goes of if there is some warning before. Is there some way to adjust batery low warning ? Thank you
  7. EDIT 2018: This is a thing of the past now for "brand-name" wheels (including 2017 models, and even older), but you can still overpower/overlean the wheel when really pushing it, nothing to do with the BMS Most unicycles use bicycles' BMS which has a overdischarge cut-off circuit (Q1) to prevent the battery from discharging under the LiIon recommanded voltage. It's a feature usefull for off-the-shelf bicycles' batteries but for monocycles, it's 1) unecessary since the mainboard deals quite well with voltage warning 2) utterly, incredibly stupid since a cutoff by the BMS results in a faceplant for the rider. In other words, the wheel's designer prefers to protect the battery by hurting the user!!! Many many users have been harmed, especially when the wheel is cold (under 10°C), since the batteries' internal resistance increases and triggers the cut-off more easily. Of course, not all wheels are affected by such incredibly stupid "feature". AFAIK, Solowheel, Ninebot, Inmotion, ie reputable brands don't cut off. Gotway has early versions that cut-off but its recent BMSs don't, since the cut-off circuit has been removed. All others do, if not proven otherwise. So they are dangerous since the probability of cut-off will increase with cold weather coming and higher internal resistance due to natural battery aging. For prospective unicycle buyers, insist to have a safe BMS, ie without the cut-off. With enough pressure from users, the Shenzen genious will end up repairing this horrible blunder. For those stuck with an unsafe wheel, the BMS cut-off circuit MUST be shunted. When touching the battery pack, if you can feel under the shrinkwrap film the big mosfet transistors, it means the BMS must be shunted. The idea is to connect the battery's 0V (B-) directly to the power output (P-), bypassing the mosfets T1 responsible for the stupid cutoff : see the dotted green line in the schematics below. (B-) and (P-) are now standard markings on most BMS boards, so any BMS can be modified by laymen based on this principle. You can see immediately the improvement by testing the wheel with strong accelerations, no more cut-off, ever ! Enjoy and have a safe ride. Below are some examples of BMS shunt. Some remarks : - no need to disconnect the battery during the operation - for Airwheels, only dismount the half housing on the side of the battery (the side without the control panel). - T1 is usually composed of 2 or 3 or even more Mosfets, so it's distinctive from X1 usually made of just one mosfet. - On most boards' layouts, T1 is marked as Q1, X1 is marked as Q2 P.S. For more pictures and photos source credit of modders, see my original thread here : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/sutra13862_solution-probleme-bms.html#13862 TG BMS. The T1 transistors can be felt through the plastic wrap. The plastic is scapeled around T1. T1 is made of 3 paralleled MOSFET transistors. MOSFET's drain & source pins are shunted by a solder blob. Warning, avoid shunting X1 Mosfet. The plastic is closed by electrician tape. A smaller opening can be made, mine is unecessarily big. TG BMS, with CMS Mosfet Dolphin D5 BMS. 3 mostfets T1 are shunted. X1 at extreme right is NOT shunted. T1 and X1 are detected by measuring the mosfet' gate voltage (pin 1) : paralled mosfets have the same gate voltage.. Airwheel X8 BMS. T1 and X1 are not easily distinguishable. When in doubt, shunt the two middle Mosfets. Recent version Gotway BMS : no T1 circuit => no shunt to do. It's a safe BMS. Aliexpress generic battery BMS (Q1=T1 ; Q2=X1) Another Airwheel BMS, shunt directly B- to P- instead of shunting the mosfets Another generic wheel BMS. Shunt B- to P- SML160 BMS. Don't bother with shunting the mosfets. Shunt B- to P- instead. Firewheel BMS. B- shunted to P- by a big wire. Route the wire like in the picture to avoid adding thickness to the battery pack. Note that the B- wire here is red instead of the usual black color code for negative pole, an occurrence of lack of care (other Firewheel BMSs have the right color, ie black) which can be very misleading. Edit 2015/05/25 : Q1 & Q2 are ambiguous, replaced by T1 & X1
  8. V5f doesn't charge or turn on. With shell removed and tested, battery indicates zero voltage (72v original, 84v charger). On charger connect, registers 24v for 5 seconds, then drops back to zero. Battery, bms, charger or sleep problem? https://youtu.be/JK-phwb74-4 Another Li-po 48V scooter battery registers 24v, when lamp connected flickers on/off at maybe 10 blocks/second. Problem/solution?
  9. Now it's personal. This is the master list of micro unicycle brands, categorized by safe electrical behavior. This is the thread to read if you want to buy a uni that "doesn't actively try to kill you" (@esaj). Problem One: BMS shutdown Most popular low-priced generic style brands, and many other popular brands of the last generation, are made with an electric bicycle style battery management system (BMS). This part can try to protect the battery and shut down instead of protecting the rider, even in the best conditions. This means, the unit stops working unexpectedly. This WILL happen one day if you have a uni with this design, because as the battery ages the likelihood of this phenomenon occurring increases. It is possible to modify the badly designed BMS using the "shunt mod." To be absolutely clear, a modified BMS is not the same as having a unicycle that was designed correctly from the start. Examples include Airwheel, Firewheel, TG, Rockwheel, early Gotway designs, many other brand names, and most generic imported models. Even Ninebot has a battery management system with unknown variations. Problem Two: Main board shutdown As the battery gets lower, the voltage decreases. With lower voltage, a higher current is needed to produce the same power to the motor as with higher voltage. This causes heat, and if it gets too hot, the unicycle will shut down. This problem is solved in units with safe low-battery behavior, for example Ninebot has a slow operation on low battery. Speed can also cause main board shutdown. Most brands tilt back and beep to tell you to stop going faster, and some talk to you. Some unicycles will just go faster and faster until they turn off because the motor can't take it anymore. Gotway, Firewheel, and Rockwheel are examples that will experience a speed-cliff type mainboard shutdown ie designed to kill. The goal: An electric unicycle must NEVER, EVER, EVER turn itself off unexpectedly. Ever. This phenomenon must be designed out of the equation. Manufacturer established solutions: Solution one (BMS Shutdown): Better BMS design. The battery management system has no way to conduct shutdown. Low battery tiltback / slow down. When the battery is low, instead of allowing normal riding, the unit slows down or tilts back to make it difficult to ride. Solution two (Mainboard Shutdown): Better main board behavior. Locking low battery - The unicycle should warn the rider of a low battery extra early, and slow to a stop entirely when riding is unsafe. The uni will be non-functional while still partially charged, and will not be ridable until it is charged again. This is called locking low battery behavior, and both Ninebot and King Song have behaviors close enough to this to solve the problem. High Speed tiltback - Almost every brand of unicycle avoids high speed shutdown by tilting back at high speed, so that the user can't push the uni past its limit. Every brand except Gotway, Firewheel, and Rockwheel and a few others are safe in this way. The high-speed warnings, however, must be obvious enough to truly protect the rider from pushing too hard. Solution three (batteries being sold are too small) This is on you! Buy the biggest battery you can afford. If you're going high speed, don't settle for 340wh or less. Look for something 600wh or above. And leave some wiggle room at the end of your battery no matter what; don't use the full range. Incomplete list of brands Very Dangerous: TG / OEM models of the same design - All models have both problems. F-wheel - BMS shutdown, maybe mainboard too. Suggested "buy to find out quality." SML / OEM models of the same design - All models have both problems. Airwheel - All models have both problems. Firewheel - All models have both problems. Firstwheel - All models have both problems. Rockwheel - All models have both problems. Fosjoas - All models have both problems. Suoku - All models have both problems. Huanxi - BMS is unconfirmed as safe, but has safe low battery behavior. Less Dangerous: Gotway - Older versions have both problems. Newer versions just have problem 2. Inmotion - Could be safe. Awaiting answers from manufacturer. IPS - Problem #2 has been documented in the forums. Safest: King Song - All of the problems documented here are addressed in all known models. The safest brand available right now. Please submit arguments! Ninebot (early models may have bad BMS). Despite their size, it is difficult to get answers from them about this issue. The only brand that is documented to shut down due to overcharge going downhill. This occurs on full battery because of regenerative braking. Can people submit comments about other brands that do this? Solowheel - Probably safe; need more detail. Obviously this list is nowhere near complete. Any input or criticism of the thinking presented here is more than welcome! No one here can do this alone. As the trend setters, we need to to make sure that new people getting started with this technology, and in particular innocent bystanders, will all be as safe as possible. Conclusion: There are solutions to all of these problems, but most manufacturers aren't implementing them. If we don't solve this problem, electric unicycles WILL hurt people, not only riders but bystanders as well. ALL electric unicycles will eventually become demonized in the public image, and will likely be made illegal or heavily regulated in many locales. Thus, any trade off is not only worth it, but entirely necessary. Any manufacturers who won't comply with these safety requirements need to be publicly exposed and driven out of the market. We need to protect new riders from manufacturers who don't care about their safety. So, anyone know other brands with confirmed electrical characteristics that are definitely safe / unsafe with regards to unexpected shutdowns?
  10. Shutdowns generally end like this and are as painful as this looks. Notice how her feet are in space and can't push against anything to break the fall. If, like me, you ride slower than you can run, overleans and other mishaps can be recovered by stepping off but the physics is different in a shutdown and you can't just step off. It is like this. This guy demonstrates the technique for an unpowered dismount. From the moment of unbalance he is falling but he lifts his knee quickly enough to get his foot forward under his body and uses the forward momentum to lift him like a pole vaulter. He knows it's coming and the physics is not opposite to what he is expecting so a shutdown for you is more difficult than for him. My four ended in more pain than any other mishap. On many wheels battery protection has been prioritised over rider protection which can lead to a shutdown without warning. Wheels designed this way and fitted with low quality batteries can shut down at any time but even with good batteries they become dangerous as the batteries age. A rider is only likely to be aware of a rare and mysterious catastrophic failure on a wheel that was for a long time safe. Early battery replacement with good cells will avoid shutdowns or the battery can be modified. The graph below for an Airwheel X8 shows published battery data overlaid with testing data of an aging cell X (black), damaged cells X (grey) and a generic battery with different, damaged cells X (blue). The discharge rate for the X tests was 0.2 amps. The aging cells were still able to sustain a voltage above the tilt back/warning voltage long enough to warn a rider but the damaged cells went from above the warning voltage to below the shutdown voltage too quickly. The generic battery had a shutdown voltage higher than the warning voltage, making it unsuitable for this Airwheel X8 from new. A longer version of this summary is published elsewhere.
  11. I have an original Ninebot Mini. After the firmware update to v1.4.1, the battery management system got corrupted and does not display anything. It shows v0.0.0 I downgraded my Ninbot app APK to 3.5.1, and it prompts out firmware update available to 1.3.1 but when l start updating, it fails because the BMS can't update as it timeout. V0.0.0 -> v.1.1.3. Anyone knows how to fix this? It's still the original battery, just that it's locked to 10kmh, has a red led light at the back and is very uncomfortable to ride.
  12. Hi! Im making my new battery for my EUC and I answer questions. Im following the steps of this page: http://infoelectricos.com/bateria-electric-unicycle/ This will be 16S and will have 180Wh Thank you
  13. Hello to everyone, i am new in euc and i have eightball zipwheel which i will sell very soon :-P Ok here is the question for someone who knows about battery upgrade, I ordered two of this BMS http://www.aliexpress.com/item/16S-15A-59-2V-li-ion-unicycle-BMS-PCM-battery-protection-board-bms-pcm-with-balancing/32414515852.html and i have a LOT batteries samsung ICR18650-30B. So my question is can i build (connect) 32 batteries on one of that BMS so i can have 2 x 32 battery pack? If it is possible how do i need to connect second line of batteries on one BMS and how can i make all wiring correct to have both in parallel connection for charging and discharging? Thanks
  14. Hi. I was in the process of rebuilding my 340wh Lhotz, adding a standard 180wh battery with its own BMS to have 520wh total. I accidentally shorted the charge wires with catastrophic result. Batterypack started to smoke, the plastic melted and the charge wires started to melt. Luckily the chargewires didnt melt completely before I managed to separate the short, if i hadn't I'm sure a batteryfire was imminent. So now to my question, doesn't all BMS have short protection on the charge wires? To me it's mental not to have. It's just as dangerous as not having it on the output wires. How is it that I could draw this high current from the charge wire anyhow? feels like a faulty design. Is this standard manufacturing practice or is this BMS a really bad one? Batterypack in question. https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32686348373.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32686348373&productSubject=32686348373&shortkey=VJ77Vfia&addresstype=600
  15. Hello my name is Samuel. I just got my first electric unicycle for Christmas and it was amazing. It came with the training wheels already on, so I eventually took it outside to ride it. I would get on the unicycle and lean forward, soon reaching max speed. The unicycle would gradually slow me back down to prevent from going too fast. It worked fine. However, and this is where I am a bit confused, when I took the training wheels off.. I would get on and begin to lean forward in order to increase my speed. Then BAM! The machine would just stop and I would almost fly into the pavement. I can go about 2 mph but as soon as I begin leaning forward and try to go faster it throws me off. It is VERY annoying. I took a slo-mo video and tried to figure it out. However I didn't see any part of the unicycle hitting the ground. It really has been scaring me because I only go about 2-3 mph... and when I try to go faster it suddenly stops and throws me off. Could it be something to do with the angle? Am I riding it wrong? I put the training wheels back on and went full speed no problem...
  16. So I was riding today, maybe 8mph at the time. Battery was around 50-55%. I hit a bump and um, involuntarily dismounted. Anyway, at first I thought I had underestimated the size of the bump, but when I tried to put the E+ upright, I noticed it was dead. I tried to restart it but no luck. I came home and plugged it, thinking it might be a BMS thing (which would also suck), but no. The bot turns on when it's plugged to the charger, but as soon as I pull the plug it turns off (see video). If I put any load, it also shuts off (probably because it's not receiving any current from the battery, and the charger doesn't have enough amps). Anyway, just wanted to report and share the video of me demonstrating the problem below. If any of you have an idea of what else could it be let me know, but my generic sucks, so I'll probably buy a replacement battery soon (@FORWARD california do you have battery packs? I couldn't find them on the website, but I'd rather buy from you than ninebotUS.com). Here's the video:
  17. I have had my generic electric unicycle for almost a year now. A few days ago while riding at the park I experience my first ever unexpected shutdown. Luckily I managed to prevent myself from falling, but I now don't trust the unit. The unit would not full power on for about 10 minutes. I would hit the power button, it would beep, and shutdown. I lifted the unicyle will powering it on to see if the wheel would speed up, but nothing. The battery was at around 60% power when the shutdown occurred. I would assume with was a BMS shutdown. Do any reliable vendors sell batteries without this shutdown circuit? I understand that you can do a shunt modification, but it is not something I am personally comfortable with. Thank you for any help provided.
  18. @SirGeraint here a pic of the BMS board on the new battery packs. This may help as an aid. The old packs don't have the HV and the LV.
  19. There's been lots of discussion on injuries and wearing protection, especially as of late. Maybe it's BMS failure, maybe the wheel caught a rock, but it seems that faceplants are inevitable. Please add to the vote! Perhaps this could people decide on a riding speed they're comfortable with, and how much protection to wear. There's no right or wrong answer -- except the honest truth! (Your answers are anonymous.) Thanks for your help! Speaking of bailing off EUCs at high speed, on this thread, @csmyers caught his highly-skilled high speed bailout roll on video, @Gimlet suggests riding with your knees bent to run off at high speeds, @Jurgen and @lizardmech give nice pointers on martial arts rolls to bail at high speeds. It's an interesting read even if you're not skilled enough to attempt rolls at high speeds, I'd recommend it.
  20. I strongly agree with wearing protective clothing. Maybe falling off is unavoidable at times however reducing the chances of injury are easy. I have put together a range of protective clothing in cooperation with some Australian partners that I will ship from Australia. Australia has been a leader in crash protection for a long time, haha we needed it. For road/concrete surfaces you will completely kit yourself out for about USD 600.00 (dirt protective clothing is a little cheaper) (Helmet, gloves, boots, Kevlar pants, Kevlar jacket (even have a hoody that looks normal even though it has hidden padding and elbow, back protectors) There are heaps of styles and choices. Sizing is world standards or I have a size chart if required. your current footwear will have the size written on it. You can go all out with full leather and high quality full face helmet and pay around USD1500.00 Here is an example of what you can purchase
  21. I know the battery packs continue to charge for a 'little' while after the Charger LED turns green but should it continue for 3 hours after (and still going)? If not, what would cause it to do this? Also, do the small components (the 16 rows of transistors, resistors, etc) on the BMS normally get too hot to touch? If not, what would cause it to do this? Does GotWay use the same values for all of the components on the BMS for the 170Wh pack (16SP1) as they do on the 340Wh pack (16SP2)? Here's the results from the Charge Doctor: 9:37 66.7V 0.54A 0.0Wh 9:45 67.4V 0.44A 5.0Wh 9:53 67.5V 0.38A 8.7Wh 10:01 67.5V 0.33A 11.9Wh 10:09 67.5V 0.27A 14.8Wh 10:15 67.5V 0.26A 16.5Wh LED on Charger turns green 10:19 67.5V 0.25A 17.6Wh 10:27 67.5V 0.24A 19.6Wh 10:36 67.5V 0.22A 22.0Wh 10:44 67.5V 0.21A 23.9Wh 10:53 67.5V 0.20A 26.0Wh 11:02 67.6V 0.20A 28.1Wh 11:10 67.5V 0.19A 29.9Wh 11:17 67.6V 0.19A 31.3Wh 11:24 67.5V 0.19A 32.8Wh .... 11:56 67.5V 0.17A 39.4Wh .... 12:13 67.6V 0.17A 42.5Wh 12:21 67.6V 0.17A 44.1Wh 12:29 67.6V 0.17A 45.5Wh 12:39 67.6V 0.17A 47.6Wh 12:47 67.6V 0.17A 49.0Wh 12:56 67.6V 0.17A 50.8Wh 13:04 67.6V 0.17A 52.3Wh 13:15 67.6V 0.17A 54.4Wh 13:24 67.6V 0.17A 56.1Wh Thanks
  22. Hello! Recently, I've bought a second-hand generic EUC. It runs nice, but it has a problem with the battery. When charging, the battery only charges continuously for about 5-10 minutes before starting to pulse on and off. It fully stops charging at about 20-30 minutes. When I turn it on, the battery indicator only shows 3 out of 4 bars, and after driving for about 20 meters, it goes back to 2 bars. The full range is around 800m - 1km before it starts beeping and is completely empty. Being somewhat of an electronics hobbyist, I opened the battery pack and measured the cell voltages after a complete charge and about 100-200m of driving (showing solid 2 bars, and dipping to 1 bar when accelerating). These are the values I measured: Cell 1: 3.715V Cell 2: 3.644V Cell 3: 3.797V Cell 4: 3.889V Cell 5: 3.845VCell 6: 3.751VCell 7: 4.080V Cell 8: 3.961V Cell 9: 3.760V Cell 10: 3.707V Cell 11: 3.608VCell 12: 3.694VCell 13: 3.762V Cell 14: 3.584VCell 15: 3.823VCell 16: 3.801V These values seem to me to not be good at all, with a maximum difference in voltages between cells of half a volt! I'm not sure if this is because of a defective BMS, or is there one/multiple faulty cells? I did order some replacement cells with the same mAh-rating, but I'm still waiting for them to arrive. I can most definitely rule out the charger, as I have two, and they don't seem to produce different results. A picture of the BMS: What do you think? Maybe I should drain/charge the battery completely and see how the voltages change? Thanks!
  23. Ive bought a generic BMS board from aliexpress and it arrived today in post. I have 32x 18650s to put together a kickass battery pack, but im looking for some diy instuctions or video of how to put it all together. Anyone know how its done. I have multimeter, solder and various parts needed. I know its a little naughty to double up but im thinking of using 2x 18650s in parallel for each of the 16 connections on the BMS to give me 32x 18650s in total to give around 340wh in total. Im guessing this could mean the double pairs might get off balance over time and reduce the overall full charge capacity, but it will still be much greater than just 16s on their own and i only have one BMS board to use soooo, i recon it will be ok aye?! provided that each double 18650 in parallel are totally evenly matched id say all good to go?! all ive found so far https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b6yPIqrQjw
  24. Hello! I want to ask for an advice here. It started when I bought an electric wheel. it worked for some time. But some time later I noticed - it can not be charged anymore. Simply it does not sink current from the charger. I have a power meter and I can determine this for sure. I double checked connections- nothing... I measured a voltage at the charger`s output and it was correct (the same as in the specs - 67.2 volts). So I suppose, charger is not broken. I opened housing and removed a battery. I discovered that some batteries were disbalanced in their voltages - showed around zero volts. I removed all 16 batteries, and replaced some of them (dead ones) to new ones (bought from fasttech.com). I charged all batteries one by one using Imax B6 and 1S 4.2V mode (it took soo much time), soldered battery pack, inserted into unicycle wheel. It worked. Untill battery discharged. And it is not charging anymore. Question are: Can induvidual batteries be charged when soldered into PCB, one by one? Using Imax B6. What would you do ? Order MK-16S60V-PHC4 PCB without batteries? Order whole battery pack? Order new charger? I tried to fix this pack but I spent so much time and I did not determine the reason of battery pack`s failure.
  25. Dear battery experts out there, I need your advice please: I have a new Gotway Mten with a low battery and I can't charge it anymore (likely due to a broken BMS). The picture shows the voltage on the main battery connector to the motherboard. Connecting the charger to the separate charging connector does not do anything good (no current flow). As things are progressing (slooooow), resolving the problem may take a while. Now I am afraid, that storing the battery at this low charge for any extended period may harm the cells. Question: Can I charge it up to a good level for storing (like between 60V and 62V) by connecting the charger directly to the motherboard connector??? This connector seems to work as the Mten still functions with the battery installed. I'm aware, that screwing up polarity or overcharging it may cause some spectacular fireworks and that there will likely be no balancing with the broken BMS. So, I would carefully babysit it while charging and disconnect at reaching about 61V. Do you think, that's a good idea?
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