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EUC

Found 4 results

  1. I received my KS-18XL in June 1, 2019. This is my first wheel ever, amazing fun, been riding it for a month, 727 km done on it. I started reading about battery packs and how to keep it fresh for a long time. Should I charge to 100% or just 80%? Only then did I notice that my wheel would only charge to 85%, it would stop charging at 80.7 V, then later settle down to 80 V. Started debugging, maybe it's a faulty charger? KS-18XL has two 20s3p battery packs connected in parallel. I noticed that if only one is connected, the wheel charges normally to 84 V, if only another is connected, it only charges to 80 V and shuts off, the charger shows green light. The voltage would indicate that only 19 cells out of 20 are working. After communication with the seller and seller communicating with Kingsong we decide to try to rebalance the cells. I didn't know the cell balancing connectors are in the corner, so I removed the whole cover. If someone needs to balance their battery back, you don't need to open it all. I noticed the board had physical damage and first assumed it was me who had somehow damaged it during the disassembly. I was all dismayed so didn't document this part very well. Later after thinking more and more I realised it couldn't have been me, it had to have happened in the factory. 19 cells out of 20 were all showing equal voltage (3.8V), but the 13th cell was showing 0 V, exactly the same cell who's BMS had been damaged. Kingsong has told the dealer they would be sending me a new battery pack, so I am happy with the service, however it will just take a long time to reach me so the riding season might be over Will update if I do receive it or not. This story does sound awfully similar to @FrankFilmer incident. His wheel only charged to 70%, which I think is a huge red flag and indicates battery problems (maybe only 18 cells working out of 20). Finally, I think that our wheels are inherently very dangerous and had my board been damaged in another spot, or had I kept riding the wheel without paying attention I would have eventually gotten a cut-out or a fire in my home. The wheel doesn't have any advanced battery management system, it should watch the health of all cells and it should warn the user that the battery is malfunctioning, but there is no such warning for the user. I was riding with 19s3p and 20s3p battery backs connected in parallel. That can't be good. Always make sure that the wheel charges to 100% and actually check that it reaches the voltage it should be reaching. Just because charger shows green, doesn't mean all cells are working.
  2. I am asking 200 dollar each if you are interested. also i will throw a flat tire ninebot E+ for 100 dollar. the thing is you need to patch the tire yourself. if you are DIY person. I guanrantee it is working. I have been riding 2 month ago.
  3. So I was riding today, maybe 8mph at the time. Battery was around 50-55%. I hit a bump and um, involuntarily dismounted. Anyway, at first I thought I had underestimated the size of the bump, but when I tried to put the E+ upright, I noticed it was dead. I tried to restart it but no luck. I came home and plugged it, thinking it might be a BMS thing (which would also suck), but no. The bot turns on when it's plugged to the charger, but as soon as I pull the plug it turns off (see video). If I put any load, it also shuts off (probably because it's not receiving any current from the battery, and the charger doesn't have enough amps). Anyway, just wanted to report and share the video of me demonstrating the problem below. If any of you have an idea of what else could it be let me know, but my generic sucks, so I'll probably buy a replacement battery soon (@FORWARD california do you have battery packs? I couldn't find them on the website, but I'd rather buy from you than ninebotUS.com). Here's the video:
  4. I know the battery packs continue to charge for a 'little' while after the Charger LED turns green but should it continue for 3 hours after (and still going)? If not, what would cause it to do this? Also, do the small components (the 16 rows of transistors, resistors, etc) on the BMS normally get too hot to touch? If not, what would cause it to do this? Does GotWay use the same values for all of the components on the BMS for the 170Wh pack (16SP1) as they do on the 340Wh pack (16SP2)? Here's the results from the Charge Doctor: 9:37 66.7V 0.54A 0.0Wh 9:45 67.4V 0.44A 5.0Wh 9:53 67.5V 0.38A 8.7Wh 10:01 67.5V 0.33A 11.9Wh 10:09 67.5V 0.27A 14.8Wh 10:15 67.5V 0.26A 16.5Wh LED on Charger turns green 10:19 67.5V 0.25A 17.6Wh 10:27 67.5V 0.24A 19.6Wh 10:36 67.5V 0.22A 22.0Wh 10:44 67.5V 0.21A 23.9Wh 10:53 67.5V 0.20A 26.0Wh 11:02 67.6V 0.20A 28.1Wh 11:10 67.5V 0.19A 29.9Wh 11:17 67.6V 0.19A 31.3Wh 11:24 67.5V 0.19A 32.8Wh .... 11:56 67.5V 0.17A 39.4Wh .... 12:13 67.6V 0.17A 42.5Wh 12:21 67.6V 0.17A 44.1Wh 12:29 67.6V 0.17A 45.5Wh 12:39 67.6V 0.17A 47.6Wh 12:47 67.6V 0.17A 49.0Wh 12:56 67.6V 0.17A 50.8Wh 13:04 67.6V 0.17A 52.3Wh 13:15 67.6V 0.17A 54.4Wh 13:24 67.6V 0.17A 56.1Wh Thanks
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