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EUC

Found 9 results

  1. I sold a year old Inmotion V5F which worked amazingly for 2 years /1,000 miles commuting to work and putting it in my closet. Bought a new a SoloWheel Glide 2. Every time I charge, at around 75-80% the charger gets extremely hot and starts making a high-pitched noise which I assumed was an overheat alarm or could also be some type of whine. Customer support at eWheels is claiming this is normal...... For a test I put a fan on the charger during the entire cycle to keep it cool and surprisingly no funny noises from the charger. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it an issue with the charger overheating, or just a funny noise?
  2. I'm trying to understand the warning beeps on my new 84v acm. I tried disabling the first alarm - when i tested it, when i reached 30+ km/h, i heard 3 beeps. (i occasionally heard single beeps also, which i shouldn't be hearing since i disabled the first alarm in the app, right? maybe this is a bug?) But anyway, is the second alarm 2 beeps or 3 beeps? and what's the final alarm? I thought final was 3 beeps based on several youtube videos and posted messages, but then i thought i read somewhere recently that the final alarm is 5 beeps, so i'm just trying to verify what's going on. I shouldn't be anywhere near my final alarm at 30-35km/h, right? This is with 90% battery, cool afternoon, flat pavement, 170lb rider. is it 1-3-5 beeps, or 1-2-3??
  3. I noted today when breaking really hard, that I got the 80% power beeps from a fully charged EUC. As I've had two instances when the 80% power warnings have led to tilt-backs, I wonder if that could happen while breaking? I really hope it can't... @Yi Chen or @陈小杰 is it possible to get a tilt-back (tilt-forward?) while breaking? If so, I would suggest changes in firm-ware. If you're breaking hard enough for the alarm to trigger, you're doing it for a reason. In my case it was a BMW-driver that came into a roundabout about 15mph faster than legal, almost moving me down in the process. Only fast reactions and power-breaking put me behind him rather than under him... I suppose it isn't an issue, just checking.
  4. A buddy of mine has been riding his Ninebot Mini Pro daily for more than a year and he always complained about how slow and annoying because of the alarm and tiltback. Recently, he switched to EUC. He bought a BNIB Ninebot One E+ with NO modification at all. After learning and riding it for about a month later, out of curiosity I asked him whether he likes it or not, since I know that a Ninebot One E+ normally is not fast enough for regular cruising. But I was surprised when he didn't have any complain about its speed at all besides of the battery capacity, of course. Not even complained about any alarm / tiltback. At first, I didn't believe him. But when he showed me this... should I worry about him having a defective unit or happy for him for having the fastest Ninebot One E+ on earth?
  5. Hey, i am just totally confused about the alarm setting of my Gotway MCM4. In the app there are 3 options for speed alarms: - close first alarm - close second alarm - open alarm At the beginning, there was an alarm at 18km/h, if I push "close first alarm" the alarm starts at 24km/h. But when i push on "close second alarm" the alarm at 24km/h is still there. I already tried different combinations of the 3 options, to get rid of the second alarm but it does not work. Someone of you already worked out, how to get rid of all the alarms on mcm4? What i want to get, is no alarm and tiltback at 24km/h but it is impossible with my app!?
  6. Like some other people here on the forum I have tried to install a gsm/gps tracker in my EUC (A Kingsong KS-16), but I gave up last year since I did not find anything small enough to fit anywhere inside the tiny space under the shell. My new idea is to buy the Deeper Lock. It's a bike lock that has a gps/gsm tracker built in and also is charging itself with solar power. They are looking for funding right now on Kickstarter: The drawback might be that it is much easier to get rid of it since it is clearly visible. But on the other hand, this also has a loud alarm that will trigger when someone tries to tamper with the lock or move the bike. There are still quite a many thousand dollars to collect before the campaign reaches it's funding target (wink wink nudge nudge ), but I hope they will make it so that I can probably have it in my hands some time next year. While waiting for Deeper Lock, I am using another kind of bike lock, from Ali Express: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bluetooth-Smart-Lock-with-Alarm-Bicycle-Smart-Lock-Bicycle-Motorcycle-Keyless-Lock-APP-Control/32803360594.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.IwWEyB I know it's Ali Express and quality could be anything between bad and par. But it's not sold for one dollar or something, it actually costs some $25 USD. I cannot really say much about it since I have only had it for a few days. But it feels pretty solid. I have no doubt that the cable could be cut off, but as with the before-mentioned Deeper Lock that would trigger an alarm. The sound level of the alarm is quite high, if you stand close you don't want that sound ringing in your ears for very long. It is locked/unlocked by an app that is bluetooth connected to the lock. There is an autolock feature in the app that will automatically unlock it as soon as there is a bluetooth connection and lock it if the phone is too far away from the lock. It lacks the GPS/GPRS function. But since I always never leave my EUC unattended other than for very very short periods, I feel that the most likely cause of loss of my EUC would be a robbery, and in that case the alarm would trigger when me and my phone are too far away (or I believe I can probably trigger it manually in the app), which I think will give me an increased likelihood of confuse and scare a robber so that I might be able to get it back.
  7. I installed this switch so i can turn off the alarm. It's so i dont have to hear the alarm all the way back home from somewhere when my battery is low. Once ive heard the alarm i know to take is slow and not push it.
  8. Jane Mo

    GotWay alarm beep

    1;一级速度报警:每秒2声,first speed alarm,2 beep per second 2:二级速度报警:每秒3声,second speed alarm,3 beep per second 3:80%功率:秒5把(连续) 80% power alarm,5 beep per second(continuously) 4:低压7.2km/h时速内,二秒一声,less than 7.2km/h,low voltage,1 beep 2 seconds 5:低压14.4km/h时速内,二秒两声,less than 14.4km/h,low voltage,2 beep 2 seconds 6:低压14.4km/h时以上,二秒三声,more than 14.4km/h,low voltage,3 beep 2 seconds 7:电机霍尔问题,半秒两声 hall sensor defect,2 beep 1 second half 8:PCB高温报警:2秒两短声,PCB high temperature alarm,2 short beep 2 seconds 9:极低压开机,每秒一声共五声 extreme low voltage power on,1 beep 1 second,totally 5 beep 10:倒下,1秒一声,共五声 fall down,1 beep 1 second,totally 5 beep 11:超压,两秒3短声 over voltage,3 short beep 2 second
  9. The reason why there are speed warnings and tilt-backs (even tilt-forward for my gotway Msuper) is to avoid that the rider falls forward while accelerating because the engine, the converter cannot deliver that high CURRENT, while he is able to work at that voltage. But strange enough, the warnings, the alarms and tilt-backs depend from speed (which is proportional with the voltage) instead of current. You would still say: so what? Well, if you are climbing a steep hill of 35 degrees and you are 120kg and you accelerate very fast on this hill from 0 to 20km/h. You wouldn't even hear a warning before falling because your speed is OK (less than 20km/h) but the engine and the converter cannot deliver that high current: current is proportional with the load (=weight, inclination and accelaration). voltage is proportional with the speed (motor speed and unicycle speed). Also for braking, once I had braked heavily and my gotway msuper did a tilt-forward, to make me clear that he cannot brake that fast. Again without warning. since my speed was ok, besides I was braking so of course there will be no warnings for brakings: but it should. I became a little unstable due to tilt forward during braking but again this is a current and load issue not a speed and voltage issue. why don't they focus to current to make the unicycle safer. The voltage nearly rests the same for all moments: 52-68 volt:empty, full, high speed, low speed, braking, accelerating. always between 52-68. But the current can go from minus 50 amperes to plus 50 amperes: a huge difference and the most restricting factor for the capabilities of the product. If we look at the progression in the car industry in the last 2 centuries, one can give an example for safe braking to compare with the safe accelerating on the euc's. They make an ABS system to make you brake safer. They don't say: "you are braking, your intention is to stop, and stopping is safe, so you are in the good way. you don't need a ABS. you may brake and slip when you brake from 200km/h to 0km/h in a rainy environment and due to slipping you may make an accident and die." But the engineers of euc do still need time to make the euc safer, not slower, safer by inventing the current warning system. No? I think the reason is: current can change instantly (accelerating from zero or hard braking at high speed) and warnings should not have an impact by that time, while speed increases slowly (e.g. 3 seconds from 0 to 30km/h), then it has sense to send an alarm at 25km/h and by the time you hear it and you stop accelerating you ride already 35km/h. If the warning would be at 33km/h, by the time you hear the alarm you would be at 44km/h and you would have fallen. But for people want to accelerate slowly the alarms at low speed levels is not relevant. Engineers... am I correct?
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