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Found 10 results

  1. I am trying to find riders and train them as well, I have taught 3 guys here how to ride and hope to teach more. There was an article in the local paper about my efforts. If you are ever in the area of Central Washington, let me know! https://www.yakimaherald.com/lifestyle/local-collector-inspires-use-of-electric-vehicles/article_49a486a9-7498-5699-a828-762fd27f9216.html?
  2. Hello, I am a 38 year old Army veteran, new to riding EUC and have a solowheel that I have been trying to learn. I've been trying to ride it for about a week now. I usually go to Patterson Park, and try to find an area with less people to notice me crashing. I have tried the tennis courts, but am not able to keep turning for very long in that caged in area. I have tried a basketball court, which is better. I have tried going down a hill and into the grass by the baseball field, which usually gets me a pretty good distance (probably 100 feet) before I crash it. I think the grass is bumpy though and it does make things more difficult. I wear lots of protective gear and have crashed countless times. Usually, I find a post or something to help me stand on it and then can go for a little while. There have been a couple times when I have been able to get going without holding onto anything, just pushing off of one foot. This often results in an even faster crash, though. I am able to travel sometimes 50 feet, sometimes 100 feet, and often much less. Sometimes I can go farther if I can find a straight area. I don't really feel safe or in control, but am continuously working to keep it going as long as I can. I know how to slow down, but am not very good at it, especially when my wheel starts to tilt and I am unable to recover. When the wheel starts tilting, I wish I could just slow down and step off, but usually this ends with me jumping off and the wheel slamming and scratching against the pavement. I have even had times where the wheel slammed into the pavement, hopped up into the air and did a few flips, and then slammed a second time while rolling over itself repeatedly. I have watched many videos and understand that sometimes you need to twist, sometimes you can bend a leg to turn, sometimes can just point your body in a direction. I am just not good at it. My wheel is pretty scratched up from all the crashes, even with the protective cover (which I have now duct-taped together because it is ripping at the seams from all the abuse). I am pretty sore from trying to ride this thing, but I do try to give it 30 minutes to an hour when I can. I am pretty sure that if I keep going like this, my wheel is no longer going to be functional. I am looking for anyone in the Baltimore area who would be willing to meet me in person to give me a few pointers before I destroy this wheel.
  3. So, its been about day (3) of some training (about 1 to 1.5 hours at a time); reading the Learning the Dynamics thread and some videos from @Marty Backe on how to mount and the "triangle method" . Currently I can barely roll/stop, roll/stop. I have been training on some thin grass at a local park and an adjacent strip of level concrete, I am starting to do much better on concrete! With all this said as I mount the wheel and try to get going forward as soon as possible, I notice almost immediately that my wheel will turn either one direction or the next and I get the wheel wobbling, I know this is part of the overall learning process but was wondering if there are any tips? Maybe foot position? Pinching the wheel with my ankles? maybe NOT pinching the wheel with my ankles? So far I am loving the experience of learning!
  4. I started to compile a list of riding skills that I myself found somewhat relevant for safety. I have been practicing all of these (and many more which didn't make it to this list because I do not deem them relevant enough for riding safety). The bad news: lack of riding skills is IMHO not the most important safety concern. The greatest safety hazards are, as far as I see it speed (in combination with potholes, hidden corners, lack of alertness to road conditions and obstacles and the natural power limits of EUCs, etc.), aggressive acceleration, overconfidence, stiff knees, lack of knowledge or understanding of EUCs capabilities, fast moving heavy objects like cars, and complacency. Without further ado, a listing of relevant skills with a few tips: Beginners: a learning belt is of good use to prevent the wheel from running away hitting and getting between the legs after hopping off getting lots of scratches (not a safety concern though) relax, remain upright, look ahead (not down), avoid to fully straighten the knees avoid using the arms for balancing, instead twist the wheel left-right to balance and use the feet to control the wheel important: be always mentally prepared to hop off when hopping off, focus to stay away from the wheel. The wheel may hit your legs and this hurts and can lead to (usually minor) injuries or it can be a stumbling block to fall over learn and practice to brake Intermediate, learn and/or practice to: brake hard, I haven't yet stopped to practice emergency braking almost every day relax the arms and minimise arm movements and let the feet do all the control of the wheel and balancing instead; this means to give leverage to use arms in a critical situation when they may be really needed be mentally prepared to run off and away from the wheel (without a learning belt) avoiding to let the wheel hit you or get into the way between the feet after separation; I am not exactly sure how to practice this intentionally, but I usually lose the wheel a few times during a single play-around session (on loose ground), which gives practice in a relaxed setup put, at the same time, almost all weight to the tip (the ball) of one foot and to the heel of the other foot; it is not too difficult to even lift one heel and the opposite front foot at the same time; this is a first step to freely position the feet on the pedals by twisting foot which should move while standing with one leg on the ground, "lock" the wheel with the other leg; in this position, move the wheel anywhere around with the loose leg, also further away from the supporting leg thereby spreading the legs and distributing weight to both legs keep the upper body vertical; lean forward (and backward) by bending the knees (and moving the hips slightly forward or backward), not by leaning the upper body most important: keep the knees soft; soft knees are our suspension and allow to negotiate anything unexpected on the ground (bumps, holes, slippery spots) and go over curbs of 3-4" relatively easily (depending on wheel size); I manage 5" curbs on a 16" wheel with this technique. Keeping the knees soft enough needs quite some practicing, unfortunately. go over speed bumps with soft knees such that the upper body doesn't move vertically at all; fixate a point with your eyes to know whether your head has moved most important: acquire the reflex to bent the knees in any critical situation; many if not most critical situations can be saved this way; when separating from the wheel, the body should always be low enough that the heels of the feet can touch the ground instantaneously; flying in the air means giving up almost all control over the further course of events, being closer to the ground means to have a larger area available where to place the next foot turn the head into any possible direction, include up, and keep it there for a couple of seconds; look anywhere, including and in particular behind or nowhere (closed eyes) Advanced, learn and/or practice to: dismount effortlessly and smoothly (with bent knees); there is no need to lift the body center of gravity while mounting (by keeping the knees bent); ideally, the mental effort to dismount is small enough to never be tempted to hold onto something for dismount avoidance; consider one foot on the ground as part of the natural riding process fully relax the arms; like when walking, the aim is, for example, to be able to effortlessly take sunglasses out of their case and put them on while riding ride on any surface you can get hold off, the more slippery or the softer the better (start slowly!), search for longitudinal grooves to ride over, and keep the arms relaxed (the knees do the trick) brake hard on a downhill slope move/position the feet freely on the pedal while riding while driving moderately slowly, touch the ground with one foot also putting weight on the ground foot; the ground leg must always stay away from the wheel to not clip the leg with the pedal; keep the body low enough such that the heel can reach the ground; easier to begin practicing while riding a curve ride down stairways; when on stairs keep ground contact as long as possible, think of each stair as a bump, think of skiing mogul, apply a (slightly) tighter grip on the shell as usual; start with 2 stairs, then 3... turn the hip, like for sitting down to the side, while driving straight (a typical body posture of skiers and Z10 riders); mastering this move gives more leverage to look anywhere around and behind and to take tight turns riding backwards, at least a little. Start by moving one inch backwards after braking to a full stop and increase the distance gradually. I always practice both sides, left and right, when applicable. Of course many of these could in principle be combined, showing that the movements have become automised. Many combinations I am not capable of doing (I can't climb a larger curb with closed eyes or run off the wheel while putting on the sunglasses Based on my experience and on reports of many others, clipping a curb or a wall or anything on the ground with the pedal or the foot is one of the main reasons for unexpected falls of more experienced riders (besides of overspeed). I started to experiment practicing this situation, and I seem to have become better in managing the situation over time.
  5. Good morning everyone, special thanks to everyone here on the forums..especially @Marty Backe @litewave and @steve454 who have tirelessly answered all my questions and have provided information sometimes redundantly!. So, must say so far charged, foam protected, havent pumped in any air in the tire however....I have squeezed the tire with my thumbs and there is almost no give..not sure if I should check the PSI but i think on that front all is well. I just got back from about 15minutes in my parking garage, one of the first things I did after turning it on was running back upstairs and putting on my wrist guards and my helmet. Yes, even not going on anywhere I put my helmet on, I had this intuition from practicing other sports that I can really really hurt myself in the formative stages if not careful. So far I must say this is SOOO fun, takes me back to my childhood trying to learn new motor skills for a sport. I can tell I'll probably get addicted to EUCs. I started off by holding on to the top of this railing in my garage , Its about a 10ft stretch, I started off by just trying to mount the thing. I must say I favor my right side heavily, so what ive done is tipped the wheel on its side to its ride...Sorta "clamp" my foot and ankle close to the body of the EUC and try to roll it forward, meanwhile holding onto the railing and sorta "jump on". After trying this for a few times or so I was pretty succesful after about only 15minutes. I continued this and sort of moving forward and backward alongst this fence while holding on to the top rail. Some things ive noticed and need advice on, is there a good method to "ditch" the EUC? Ive favored just dumping the EUC on it's side to the right while I try to jump off..sorta pedal scrape the right pedal close to the ground then step off. Any advice on how to properly get off once you sense you're losing your balance? Ive padded up my EUC but see some battle scars already LOL so far chipped the blue off the handle holder (front of the handle) and some good pedal scrapes, I am hoping the pedals are easily replace or upgradable. Another thing ive noticed is the APP I have shows a "sensitivity" adjustment, currently I have it on 4 the app shows the lower the # the more sensitive, any ideas on what # is good for training? I figure I will be hanging onto a fence and doing this for several days, maybe several times a day. My next training session will be doing what I did today and hopefully hobbling along another fenced wall which spans about 12ft! Any and all advice as always is appreciated. Thank you guys!
  6. Dear EUC Pioneers, Nothing spoils the joy of EUC riding more than a painful accident. For pure luck, I was spared any serious injuries so far, but when I'm honest to myself, that's way more due to luck than skill. Any fall at higher speed and I am way out of my league to cope with that. Most likely, I end up flat on my face, ruining arms and knees on the way down. Inside our Berlin riding group, we got such a wake up call lately, when one of the members shattered his forearm just days after receiving his shiny new high performance wheel. That got us thinking. As we don't know about any established EUC safety training, we attempt to invent our own. Here you will find a first concept along with the friendly request to contribute your ideas and feedback. Of course all of you are more than welcome to copy, use and improve all or part of it - it's positively Public Domain! Status: First Draft, June 4, 2017 by Tilmann Exercises Mounting / Starting: Training Goal: Mount and start from flat ground without assistance without leaving a narrow track (approx. 1 foot wide) Activity: Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape and start trying... Training Goal: Max. accellaration w/o ‘overlean’, i.e. achieve the fastest possible acceleration without overstressing the wheels power. Activity: Force an ‘overlean’ at safe speed and ‘run-off’ (should not be difficult with a weak 350W motor). Repeat the exercise to find the best leaning angle that just works. Braking: Training Goal: Break to a stop in minimum distance (from a straight path). Activity: At very low riding speed, lean back violently to force a motor cut-out. Repeat the exercise to find the angle with best braking action. Training Goal: Break to a stop in minimum distance (from a turn). Activity: No idea, we just have to try... Riding / Stabilizing: Training Goal: Master uneven ground (tree roots, potholes, street curbs, speed bumpers, etc.). Activity: depends on what the respective playground has to offer. Ideally, include some round rods that roll away when you ride over them. Training Goal: Circumvent static obstacles (like the ever so popular bicycle barriers). Include ducking under higher obstacles like branches and gates (“ewheel limbo”). Activity: Various obstacles will be simulated with tape. Supporters to hold the tape in mid air for the ducking exercises. Training Goal: Master dynamic obstacles (something/somebody surprisingly runs in your path). Activity: A wider track (approx. 3 feet) is marked on the gound. While the trainee rides on the track at safe speed, a supporter on the ground is challenged to get the rider off the wheel by throwing a soft inflatable ball from a distance at the rider or in his way. Training Goal: Master inclines and down hill. Activity: Using the weak 350W training wheel, we excercise riding up and down the steepest incline we can find. Ideally, the incline is steep enough to overstress the wheel to cut-out at safe speed. The training ground needs to provide a safe “landing zone” for the rider and the wheel as provoked dismounts on the incline are part of the training. Training Goal: Change foot position while riding. Activity: Train to ride with just one foot on the pedal. Begin with placing the strong leg on the wheel and use the weaker leg for “skateboarding” the wheel in a straight line. Exercise, until you master several feet riding on one leg without touching the ground with the other. Gradually increase difficulty with switching legs, increasing distance and speed and including turns. Once you can lift a foot while riding, changing foot position on the pedal is a piece of cake. Variation: Include exercises to sit down on the wheel and stand up again while riding. This will also build up balancing and stability. Check training effect by mounting and starting with choosing a wrong foot position on purpose, then correct it when in motion. Training Goal: Minimum speed riding. Activity: Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape. Mark a start and a finish line. Train to ride the track as slow as possible without leaving the track, putting a foot down or reversing. Have a supporter take the actual riding time. Training Goal: Look behind while riding. Activity: Mark like 3 cardboards with letter easily readable from a distance. Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape. After the rider passed a supporter on the side, the helper holds up a card board and calls the rider. The trainee then tries to look backwards and call out the respective letter without driving off track in the process. Gradually increase the difficulty by moving the supporter closer to the track until he is placed straight behind the driver. Also gradually increase riding speed. Training Goal: Pass others on a narrow track. Activity: We mark a narrow track on the ground with tape (approx. 2 feet wide). Two trainees try passing each other either by overtaking or by riding the track in opposite direction without crossing the track borders. Training Goal: Master wind gusts. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to produce strong enough wind gusts without a helluva effort or random help from mother nature. EDIT: Added after suggestion from @Dingfelder: Training Goal: Improve balance and confidence when turning. Activity: Set up a slalom course using little traffic cones (cheap from amazon, ebay, etc.). Master such training courses with gradually increased difficulty and speed. EDIT: Added after suggestion from @Mono: Training Goal: Understand the importance to always ride with "soft knees" to be prepared for the unforeseen. Activity: Very, very cautious and slow ride over a prepared obstacle with completely straight legs ("locked knees"). Start with really small obstacles as the risk of injury is high. Stop the exercise when you got an impression, how fast balance is lost when riding with locked knees.
  7. If you are a beginner about to train on the Step-n-Roll, you will want to wear protection, not only from falls, but from the unicycle itself. Its sharp edges and hard surfaces will abrade your skin. Experienced riders, who aren't gripping the sides of the housing in a desperate effort to stay balanced, will not likely experience its ergonomic shortcomings. Update 170524: With less than 10 minutes total on the pedals, the last time I mounted the unit and attempted forward navigation, the machine pitched me forward violently. Every time I have turned it on since then, the motor jerks to full speed, the emergency stop is activated, the motor stops, and the beep turns on. On opening the controller panel, I found a loose connection in the yellow wire that I assume comes from the wheel position encoder. I pushed it back in, made sure all the connections are tight, and powered up again. BAM! Same thing. Needless to say, I'm frustrated. I think the most likely fault is in the wheel position encoding or the gyroscope. I guess that if a traction MOSFET went bad, the wheel would probably stutter rather than accelerate to full speed. Thoughts?
  8. Learning to do tricks consistently on an electric unicycle requires learning technique, (lots of) practice/repetition, understanding the parameters under which your wheel operates and recognising (and attempting to control, or embrace) any variable(s). Controlling the Variables A variable is an element, feature, or factor that is liable to vary or change. If you are trying to learn to do a trick consistently then it’s a very good idea to have a think about what elements, features or factors could vary, and how these may be controlled. Some variables are more practical to control than others. I have listed some of the most important ones below, please feel free to add any I have missed. Environmental Variables Surfaces Different types of surface will all provide a very different environment for practising and performing tricks. A lot of flat surfaces are not actually flat. The most consistently flat and uniform outdoor surface that I have found are flat areas in professionally built Skateparks. Surface moisture reduces the amount of friction between the wheel and the surface which greatly affects turning and spinning – this can sometimes be used to your advantage. (This variable is best controlled by practising on the same high quality surface). Think Friction, Hardness, smoothness, bounce, incline, moisture, temperature Example surfaces which may all provide a very different riding experience: Concrete Wooden stage Dry Tarmac Wet Tarmac Paving Slabs Brick Marble Grass Gravel Dirt Temperature Different temperatures will have an effect on the riding surface, the tire, the motor, the control board, the battery and the rider. If you are practising in the middle of the day during summer then the wheel is likely to get hot much quicker. (This variable would be best controlled by practising indoors in a temperature controlled environment). Distractions Distractions can impact on practice sessions, obvious examples include: Noise Traffic Spectators other Riders Animals/Pets Electric Unicycle Variables Model Some electric unicycle models seem more suited to tricks than others. It may not be possible to perform some tricks on all models. You may have to adapt your technique depending on differences between models. Variation between wheels may include Wheel size Weight Centre of gravity (this can be greatly affected by where the battery is situated) Pedal Size Pedal Height Pedal Angle Pedal Grip Firmware Changing the firmware that runs on your wheel’s control board may change the whole feeling of the wheel. (This variable can be best controlled by not changing the firmware version). Riding Mode Many wheels have different riding modes which change the responsiveness of the wheel (E.g. hard/soft). (This variable can be best controlled by sticking to the same riding mode). Tire Type The tread and compound on a tire affects the huge difference on ride. (This variable can be best controlled by monitoring the tire tread and replacing with the same tire as soon as adverse wear is identified). Tire Pressure Changing the tire pressure makes a big difference. A higher pressure will result in a faster and more responsive wheel (but more difficult to control). (This variable can be best controlled by fixing the tire pressure as a parameter and regularly measuring/adjusting the tire pressure before a practice session). Battery Charge EUCs can respond markedly differently at different states of charge. (This variable can be best controlled by fully charging your wheel before each practice session). Accessories Attaching accessories to the wheel can impact on how the wheel behaves – these can alter the centre of gravity or restrict entry/exit to/from the wheel. (This variable can be best controlled by removing all accessories from the wheel or having the same accessories attached to the wheel when attempting to perform tricks). Personal Variables Weight Rider weight could be a source of variation. (This variable can be best controlled by monitoring your weight and adjusting your diet accordingly). Fitness (This variable can be best controlled by adhering to a regular fitness regime). Footwear Wearing different footwear can affect your riding performance. Variables include: Grip Sole thickness (this affects your ability to feel the foot plates) Padding & Support Tightness (This variable can be best controlled by wearing the same pair of shoes when performing tricks). Clothing Clothing can be a source of variation. Some clothes can restrict movement and even affect the weight or the centre of gravity of the system. If you are practising for a show it may be sensible to practice in the costume that you are going to wear for the show.(This variable can be best controlled by wearing similar fitting clothing when practising). Safety Equipment Safety equipment can affect your movement and centre of gravity. (This variable can be best controlled by wearing the same safety equipment each session).
  9. Hey euc lovers! I know there are lots of you who started riding very basic default models purchased off alibaba, ebay and other retailers. These tend to have sharp top corners and hurt your calves more than some of the newer models. Have any of you used/still use particular protection gear for calves to make the learning a bit easier and prevent bruising? We've recently ordered several boxes of branded custom equipment that has extra silicon inserts on the inner sides. The main reason I'm asking is to gather feedback and provide our future customers with some insight about these kits. So far, our tests during the academies show that wearing a set reduces your leg fatigue during the training. However, in order to make a fair test we'd have to set two similar individuals with almost identical physique, which wasn't possible so far. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this: maybe you used some kind of alternative to guard your shins during the training? Just like my technique of rolling up the sweatpants so that only the softest spot interacts with the EUC
  10. So as to not hijack anyone's thread I decided to start my own. The reason for posting this is just to, hopefully, help encourage others that are learning. I've had a couple of times when I was discouraged because I wasn't making any progress. Yesterday before I went out I said that "I'd better make some progress!" and I did. Today I made even more progress. Also, I am going to include some things that I have started doing that I think are helping me. Today was my 9th day of practice. When I go out I can usually only practice for 15-20 minutes. Partially because it's HOT here (around 97 degrees Fahrenheit) and my back usually gets tired from bending over and walking the 9B1 to my launch site (but no more of that). I've been practicing in my kitchen more during the day. I feel it is helping me get better. I also tried mounting unassisted in the kitchen and I think I did pretty good at it. I tried both the hop on and go and the push off (skateboard) methods. I went to a nearby Elementary school parking lot again. My first launch was from my car. All other launches were unassisted. My first unassisted launch was a success as well. And I did good riding (not great, but good). On my very first 'run' I went mostly where I wanted (a first for me. Usually I went 'wherever' and just was able to navigate enough as to not hit anything). I went around the bigger part of the parking lot a few times. It's more like a few small parking lots connected by car paths (see the picture URL below). So that means there are more curbs to miss. I've wanted to find a bigger parking lot but this one is so close to my house and there aren't too many people to see me (like if I went to a store parking lot). I didn't wobble most of the time (like I usually do). It seems like when I wobble it's because my feet are arguing... or getting tired. Sometimes I was even relaxed (hands by my sides). I was able to intentionally squeeze between a curb and a speed bump (about a 3' gap) twice but bailed once. I was successful at speeding up when I needed more speed and slowing down when I thought I was going too fast. I fell twice but they were just because I tripped over the 9B1 after failed unassisted launches. It seems for me that each day my first or second 'run' is the best. I may have some other decent ones but usually not as good as the beginning. I think this means that some muscles are getting tired. They must be muscles that I haven't been using much. During my first run today my turns seemed more natural. Later it wasn't as fluid. It was like I was over-thinking it. The next few days are going to be hotter. I may have to practice in the dark. Here's the school where I practice: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7oev598hxU2UEV2emJIX2ZnSlk/view I have been doing many of the things recommended on this forum but here are some things that I have just started doing the last 2 times out that I am contributing to my success. They may not actually be what's helped; maybe I am just getting better... But I think they are helping. I am sure some will say these are wrong but maybe it will help someone. Maybe as I get better I will no longer need to do some of these things. - I deflated my tire some. (I know this one will have to be temporary. I think I will add a little bit of air at a time.) - I have started putting my feet right up against the 9B1 and squeezing to hold it between my legs. At first I was just trying to balance. But I wasn't getting the bruises everyone was talking about. Now I am getting bruises but I think they are just temporary. - Previously I feel I was trying to balance with my hips or with my entire leg (and maybe when my balance was way off this was necessary). But I would usually start going straight for about 6 feet and then veer fairly sharp to the left (my first 'long' run the other day was a series of lefts, wobbly straights and sharp lefts, just enough to dodge curbs and cars). It was a struggle to go right. But while I was practicing in the kitchen today I found that if I pushed with the balls of my right foot I would veer to the right. I think that helped me make the small adjustments that I needed to make when I was out today. Finally I want to say that I think that if I can do this just about anyone can. I've done a lot of things in my life and I was usually a good student. But I am getting old now and most of the things that I have done were when I was a child, teen or young adult. And they were before I acquired some of my injuries and health issues. But I think this practice is going improve the strength and coordination of the muscles needed for balance that I have, apparently, not been needing to use much. One thing I never could do when I was a child was ride a unicycle. I hope this helps someone.
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