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- The Tesla looks pretty BORING with its snazzy fake carbon fibre and black trim. - The buzzzer also can not be heard properly at speed and for sure not by people in front when used as a horn - The fastening of the plastic chassis that hold the 1000Wh battery pack and main board, wasnt fastened in a qualitative way. Very eager to crack around those tiny screws and washers. Basically, we need to remould this "China build" into something that holds up, can be heard and looks nice(ish) 3 fairly simple things Paint that shit uuuup 1a Remove trim (clicks off) 1b Repaint the trim - sand down (180-240 grit as last step) - clean very carefully (i used soap and water, dry, then alcohol) make sure all dust is gone and that especially big marks are clean all the way into the bottom - base coat/primer for plastic (2 layers or until even coat). You can see a few marks shining through...bad cleaning or too little coat. Sand area around the mark lightly keeping the coat but smoothing the edges, clean and coat again. - (Optional, fill big pits scrapes with some kind of filler like plastic padding, sand and base coat..im lazy and i know i will scrape it again ) - paint (3 layers flouroscent green + 2 layers chrome for me) -varnish (2-3 layers), only left one varnished with one layer on the green below Tried to colour manage photo how it looks IRL but Acid green flourescent is really hard...but about like this 2 move the beeper 2a Split the wheel (dont miss the tape under the circuit board holding the shell together at the end). Disconnect batteries & press power button to empty the capacitors. They hold A LOT of charge A LONG time. 2b Screw of beeper and remove the plastic cork-screw wrap from its cables CAREFULLY. The other tiny cables are the HALL sensor cables and they are solid core so very easy to break (idiots choice of cables in an EUC). I took the chance to cable manage those while in the progress as mine were bent in a curl up fashion. Straightened them (very carefully making sure i did NOT bend them more than ONE time as several bends will break them) and electric taped them to the power cables a few centimeters and then refitted cork screw wrapping partially over motor and sensor cables and then toward the card of course only the sensor cables. Like this. I also sealed the holes from the beeper...they are on both sides of chassis as the chassis part is the same mould. 2c move the beeper "inside" the shell, the best flat spot i found was right next to the circuit board, it should still be fairly protected here as its next to the circuit board that I hope is protected Also managed all the cables here together to a package, supported by the main harness to the front panel. 2d I used double sided sticky tape to fasten it, didn't want to drill any holes. Time will tell if that was a stupid choice (if it will come loose and dangle around inside the shell) DONE, now start putting wheel back togehter but first Fasten the shell better with new washers But first some maintenance, check around the holes for hair line cracks. If found, drill a tiny hole (1mm is plenty) RIGHT in the end of the crack (to prevent it from continuing) and fill the hole with your filler of choice (to prevent water from entering through the hole). As per below one of the cracks cant be drilled obviously as it sllready end in holes but the left one can. 3a. Create your 6 washers. They should be 52*11mm (not more than 12 as then the wont fit) , thickness as per choice, I went for 4mm aluminium Hole CC is 34mm and diameter 5.5mm Look at those paper thin (non stainless) original washers....laughable. 3b Choose a new screw, of course longer due to the beefier "mega washer". I prefer allen hex a lot more than star as I can tighten them easier (and more if wanted) 3c Add a flat washer (or serrated if you dont use thread lock, i prefer flat + blue loctite thread lock) on top of your mega washer and fasten it up Additional maintenance while at it, add some reinforcement to the battery compartment. For example sandwhich a piece of plastic with loctite glue against this fragile plastic wall taking the hit from the batteries att every bump. Also change the adhesive tape for the batteries to something really sticky (but of course not to the point you can't remove them) to prevent them from moving too much. Below i removed all the adhesive tape to see the hidden damage. My friend had this too so I guess all ridden Teslas do and MSX es DONE :-) Now i just need to finish my paint job and put it all together. Will also add washers to increase angle of pedals. Will post an image when all is done. All done...here it is... playground seemed fitting...toys for big boys :-) Flourescent under UV (lit with a 3led UV light used to harden the glue for phone glass protection..with some light from the back) But the main advantage is how it rides, its a completely new wheel to ride feeling wise. It's still very nimble, but i guess the increased pedal angle makes it less nervous too as you dont PUSH DOWN like before (maybe a bit extreme but i need the clearance in both sharp turns where i constantly scrape the ledals and in the woods to avoid stones and whatnot). Also means i have to raise my kuji pads (one is with velcro allready, the other one is getting velcro too now, so covenient to adapt for different choe sole thicknesses) The Kenda tyre pumped A LOT harder (4+ BAR) than the old CHIENG shin (msxed out at 3.1Bar) did not make it nervous or bumpy... Right now turns are smoother than ever. Maybe because the tyre is once again round in profile as opposed to allmost square on my worn SS 🤪 Yep, it was time to change...4000km it lasted...not bad when loaded with 95Kg rider +20kg wheel & equipment :-)
Not sure how legit this is but just saw this on EU Guy FB Group: